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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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hi,
i am wondering about pure class A Push pull amp. i know as its require less power supply and output is high efficiency, anyone build it? where to find some design? i have searched can't find push pull class A circuits. |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: ancient Batsch , behind Iron Curtain
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Quote:
A75 Krell KSA50 and KSA100
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my Papa is smarter than your Nelson ! tnx to clean thread ; Cook Book ; PSM LS Cook Book ; Baby Diyaudio FORUM ; Mighty ZM's Bloggg;I'm dumb
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
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Quote:
If you want power amp examples of maximum class A in push pull,. check for the "F4" and "F5" power amps on the Pass forum. On my side, I use a compromise, a 70W Amp with about 5 to 20 W in class A (8ohms) since I usually listen to no louder than that. The Amp operates in class AB for the remaining watts until 70W when you want your neighbords to join your party... Good luck |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: West Howe
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I've read various info on this. Apparently increasing bias raises distortion and listening fatigue, and how do you know if you're in Class A anyway? An Led indicator type circuit would be nice.
http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/bias_e.html TNT Audio discusses doing it. Or am I barking up the wrong tree??? Mike
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If it don't work, I'll fix it in the mix! Or visit http://lsdp.proboards.com/index.cgi |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Hi,
Doubling the bias current in a class aB amplifier is pointless and will cause more distortion than the optimum setting. The tntaudio article is very poor and ignorantly generic. There will be an optimum setting for bias which depends on the topology of the output stage, any other values are wrong. Cranking it up "to be more class A" is very mostly wrong. /sreten.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
/sreten.
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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I use to feel like the small child in The Emperor's New Clothes tale
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: West Howe
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I think I asked this myself, yonks ago. I did it to an amp I had. I put extended heatsinks on it. When I reversed it, it sounded no different.
Its right though. It says CLASS A. and I still got a look. Mike
__________________
If it don't work, I'll fix it in the mix! Or visit http://lsdp.proboards.com/index.cgi |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
but, if you increase the ClassAB bias to give an effective half power while still in ClassA that transfers to ClassB for the final 50% of max power, then an amp that has 20dB of overhead will have 17dB of ClassA overhead and an additional 3dB of ClassB overhead. When you listen to this amp you will as likely as not remain in ClassA for 99.9999% of the time and only use the last 3dB of max power during the very few occasions that have extreme transients. It is quite likely that the extreme transient that needs this last bit of power is so loud and short lived that the extra distortion due to transferring to ClassB from the High Bias ClassA will go unnoticed. Effectively the high bias has hidden the non optimum ClassAB bias by ensuring that most signals never require the amp to go to ClassB. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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It's swings and roundabouts. Upping the quiescent current ( if the heatsinks and thermal management of the amp can cope long term ) will increase the ripple on the rails. Many amps have poor supply rejection for various reasons and compromised wiring layouts. You may find the increase actually worsens the noise and distortion rather than improve it at lower levels. And it's at low levels where it matters most IMO.
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