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#421 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator
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dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#422 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
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Please, talk about whatever you're comfortable with and, I hope, know something about. Pancakes perhaps? Or will that be a placebo? P.S. The quote I used isn't necessarily wrong, the idea to relate it to audio is rather far fetched. Hold on, let me get my aspirine (the most underestimated drug, BTW) Mama mia,
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Frank |
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#423 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwest
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As for the quote, sorry, you're right it was Rob M in post #58. |
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#424 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#425 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
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#426 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
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#427 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwest
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I also agree there are some stunning classical recordings from the late 50's and early 60's. They have lots of tape hiss, but they're otherwise impressive. They're all the more impressive when you think about what the "state of the art" was back then. As for the rest of your comments, I agree good doesn't have to mean expensive, but I still know there's a big double standard. There's all sorts of stuff in the studio signal path that should make audiophiles make a funny face and cover their ears--especially when you consider it greatly outnumbers the stuff in the playback chain. You yourself have said that just one part--Wondercaps--can ruin the sound of a system. So something doesn't add up here because audiophiles seem perfectly happy with the sound from their systems playing recordings that should be offensive to their ears. |
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#428 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwest
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I still have to come back to the common sense side of this. If, as you suggest, the levels weren't matched, that would actually bias the test towards HEARING A DIFFERENCE. If someone guessed the pattern that would also bias toward hearing a difference. If someone could see the leads or had other clues, that would also bias the test towards hearing a difference. In other words, all the likely errors I can think of FAVOR HEARING A DIFFERENCE! It's hard for me to come up with things that would actually obscure differences between the amps and cause a "false null"? I'll outline my procedures, and if someone can tell me how this test would mask the audible differences between the amps, I'd love to hear them. The only credible ones I'm aware of are the time to do the switch if you're cable swapping, and the switching hardware if you're using a switcher. One can argue the time shouldn't be a big deal as most golden ears claim to have a great "sonic memory". Reviewers frequently compare products they're reviewing to others they haven't heard for several months. We're only talking a few minutes here. The Onkyo/Bryston test was run as follows (loosely patterned after the Sunshine Challenge): The test takes place in the listener's own home using their own system and music. We'll call their amp (the Bryston combo) "Amp A". The listener (or listeners) pick a playback level they're most comfortable with on their system while playing a familiar recording. Tell them you're not going to speak to them once the test starts, and it's their responsibility to ask you when they want a "swap" and that's also when they should tell you what amp they think has been playing. I also ask them, in advance, what percentage of correct votes they should get to indicate they can really tell the difference. Some are so confident they say 100%. The lowest I've heard is 2 out of 3 or 66%. Then ask them to leave the room for a moment. Leave the gain set where they like it and play a -20db test sine wave on a diagnostic CD (you can buy one for $6 if you don't have one). The frequency isn't terribly critical as we're already assuming the amps have flat response in the audible range. I would suggest 400hz or 1khz. Use a DMM (you can buy one of those for $25) to read the level at each of the speaker terminals while the sine wave is playing. Write down the voltages. Connect the new amp or receiver (Amp B--the Onkyo) to the CD player. The most pure way to do this is simply unplug the CD interconnects from the listener's amp/preamp and plug them into the evaluation amp. It's a good idea to temporarily ground the CD player to both amps so that you don't get any nasty hum or other weirdness when you swap cables. You can disconnect the ground once the connections are swapped so there's no chance of it altering the sound. You can also use the preamp outputs if you want to remove the listener's preamp from the evaluation. Move the speaker leads from Amp A to Amp B. It's best to make the line level connections with the speakers disconnected from both amps. I've had to make adapters if Amp A has really huge speaker wire terminations that don't fit Amp B. The adapters, if anything, would make Amp B easier to pick out. Play the same test track and use the DMM to set the voltage to be the same as what you wrote down previously for each speaker (adjusting balance if necessary). The two amps are now level matched to a very exact degree. The accuracy of the DMM isn't an issue (unless it has huge drift problems--very unlikely) as you're only concerned about the relative match. You should be able to get the two amps within a few millivolts of each other which is a very tiny fraction of a db at typical listening levels. Flip a coin to pick Amp A or Amp B to be up first and invite your listener back in and play the music of their choice. Two things are important here. First, the listener should not have any visual clues as to which amplifier is connected either from the listening position or as they enter and leave the room. Most equipment racks allow for this but I've had to do things like stand the DUT up on end behind the rack, set up a bit of audibly transparent camouflage (I bring some pieces of speaker grill cloth), etc. Second, because this isn't a double blind test, the person running the test needs to not give any clues to the listener. Avoid eye contact, don't talk, ask questions, etc. I usually sit off to the side, out of sight of the listener, when I'm not needed to let them focus on task at hand. When the person is ready for a "switch", I turn around so they can't see my face and they tell me which amp they thought was playing and I record their answer. They leave the room briefly and I flip the coin again to decide if I swap the leads or only pretend to swap the leads and invite them back in when I'm done. Again, it's obviously important they can't hear or see what you're doing at swap time. If they like (and they usually do) we replay the same music. When they request the next swap, they again "vote" for which amp was just playing and again I record their answer. You repeat the above few steps using different music as desired, for as long as the listener desires. If they're scoring really well, I usually terminate the test early as it's obvious they can hear a difference--again, this is biasing the test TOWARDS hearing a difference. If they're scoring about random, in my experience, they usually know they're only guessing and they tend to terminate the test fairly early. It's when they think they hear a difference but are not sure that things drag on. When the test is over, you tally up the right and wrong answers and compare them to the total number of votes. I then share the results with the person and we discuss them against what they expected to hear. The Onkyo/Bryston guy admitted he was only guessing. He did, however, want to verify that he was indeed listening to both amps--i.e. that I was really swapping sometimes (which is easy enough to verify afterwards). All that said, for my own personal tests, I built a "toggle" (momentary contact) switcher that simply switches the inputs and speaker leads through very high quality relays and wiring. This allows instant A/B switching with the person necessarily knowing which is A and which is B. Because it's an instant swap, it's more sensitive to differences. Some, of course, argue the extra contacts and wiring degrades the sound and masks any differences, but I've not found that to be the case in doing blind tests comparing the sound with no switcher and with it being in place. Anyway... there's a DIY procedure for a simple blind home test. Comments anyone? |
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#429 | |||
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Account Disabled
Join Date: May 2002
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...indeed the equipment serves us, but we surely must have some unambiguous and transparent method of determining the quality of service? |
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#430 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
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As for the test you outline, I'd say it's got a few problems, but I'll let someone who knows more about psychoacoustics than I do comment on it. |
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