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Old 5th February 2013, 11:29 AM   #71
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Hi

Does anyone have a service manual for the Thule Sphere AV120? It has started with the annoying high pitch noise that almost everyone seems to get after a few years. I think i might try and only replace all capacitors and see if that helps. The PCB is in good condition otherwise and i cant see that anything is remotely burnt or brown to the color.

And also, if anyone has a broken Thule amp i might be interested in buying the volume potentiometer from you since mine is broken (shipping accident)
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Old 8th February 2013, 09:51 AM   #72
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for the benefit of other diy members and to prevent stupid 25 EUR charge for a single service manual, here is the link to the following models I found:

IA60B (it's rev.7 though very similar to my Spirit Start rev.5)
IA150B
IA250B

hope it helps at least somebody
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Old 8th February 2013, 10:40 AM   #73
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Thanks! All help is appriciated.
Just ordered my capacitors, should get them next week and then start to dissemble the Sphere.. i will take pictures and upload them here or in a new thread.

Maybe create a new thread called, pictures of your Thule audio repairs where we all can upload pictures and maybe get a small database of repairs some day.
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Old 12th February 2013, 09:54 PM   #74
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I would need a piece of advice concerning repairing my faulty Thule.

Finally I got all the parts and replaced two faulty transistors and 1k smd R13 (marked with red). I'm attaching the scheme from IA60 that is very similar to mine except 2 output transistors marked with green (none of them is on my pcb).

So I replaced the parts, attached the sinks back and turned on the device. Sudden smoke has appeared and R13 started to melt. I have double checked all the near devices before soldering new transistors (Q51, Q44, Q49, Q36 as well as resistors). So what could that be? I have replaced R13 with 0.25w similar size resistor as original one that was burned.
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File Type: jpg faulty.JPG (107.9 KB, 205 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf thule_audio_ia60.pdf (202.7 KB, 49 views)
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Old 13th February 2013, 03:07 AM   #75
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Default Advice concerning repairing your faulty Thule

Hello Konstantin,

Sad to hear you still have a problem after replacing all those parts. Unfortunately to guess what may have caused the 1k resistor, R13 to burn is difficult because the power supply has a 100 volt potential that can be conducted across it for many reasons.

A worst-case scenario is that resistor R13 would have to be able to conduct 100ma, which is 10 watts by a 0.25 watt device.

A version of this scenario could happen if both Q30 and Q36 were shorted, collector to emitter. This kind of short could also be made by solder bridging traces. Could be caused by failure of Q49 and Q51.

Looking back further into the amplifier, the bias stage, with all other semiconductors having been ok, if D3 was open or lost connection with its trace, or R14 being open or lost contact with either of its traces, or pot R91 being open between itself and R14, then both Q30 and Q36 would be biased into very high conduction, far greater than R13, the 0.25 watt resistor could sustain.

These are the area’s I would look at first. Could be other conditions although most probable are those I just detailed for you.

Good Luck.

Best Regards,

Rich
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Old 13th February 2013, 08:12 AM   #76
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Oh that's bad, had a similar problem with an old Sony TA-N80ES.. every time i had replaced something, something else went bust :/

I still haven't received my capacitors but now im having second thoughts about removing all the capacitors, here is why.

I was fiddling around inside the amp and cleaning it, tested it afterwards and my high pitch noise was almost gone! Thought that was strange so i started to wiggle some of the components on the PCB and voila, the 13-Pin connector seemed like it had something to do with it since the noise went up and down as i poked it.

I decided to remove the cable from the lower PCB and reconnect it by pressing it down and then refitted the clip that covers the connector and after that the high pitch was gone!

I tried it with my ESS AMT speakers and they have a sensitivity around 100db (other 12" fitted), there was some static noise when i put my ear almost into the Heil Transformer but it was really low so i compared it with my IA350B which i also have and it to had about the same amount of noise so mission complete!


Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by aquvist; 13th February 2013 at 08:32 AM. Reason: Faulty picture link
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Old 13th February 2013, 08:16 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtses View Post
I would need a piece of advice concerning repairing my faulty Thule.

Finally I got all the parts and replaced two faulty transistors and 1k smd R13 (marked with red). I'm attaching the scheme from IA60 that is very similar to mine except 2 output transistors marked with green (none of them is on my pcb).

So I replaced the parts, attached the sinks back and turned on the device. Sudden smoke has appeared and R13 started to melt. I have double checked all the near devices before soldering new transistors (Q51, Q44, Q49, Q36 as well as resistors). So what could that be? I have replaced R13 with 0.25w similar size resistor as original one that was burned.
The reason therefore are unwanted oscillation. The output power follower consist of a triplet, that basically is better than an ordinary darlington, but more critical in order of the PCB layout.
Convert the power follower in a darlington, i. e. remove the first stage Q51/49 and perform all additional steps therefore.
Unfortunately I cannot assist you in respect to all necessary details.
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Old 13th February 2013, 11:41 AM   #78
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hi Rich,

thanks again for your help! Will do that later once have some free time!

If the fault will not reveal itself will convert the output stage to darlington config.

tiefbassuebertr,

just a small clarification, should it look like that in the end? I'm frightened to cook any other parts accidentally.
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Old 13th February 2013, 01:14 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtses View Post
hi Rich,

thanks again for your help! Will do that later once have some free time!

If the fault will not reveal itself will convert the output stage to darlington config.

tiefbassuebertr,

just a small clarification, should it look like that in the end? I'm frightened to cook any other parts accidentally.
Partly right, bot very important details lacks.
check ot the attached pdf - perhaps this helps. But maybe not. Read all my posts here to understand, why.
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File Type: pdf Thule EM1070 unbal - power amp - supply all rev.pdf (87.5 KB, 80 views)
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Old 14th February 2013, 08:39 AM   #80
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hi Andreas,

thank you very much! Got the point! Interesting upgrades, will try once fix the amp!
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