Read post #51.
Theoretical each electronician could be repair and modify the amp models from Thule's "Spirit" Series.
But the creating of the repair instructions (for everybody understanding) is connected with so great expense, that actually a book should be written about this. But this time I will not invest, because I haven't this time.
The need for explanation is definitely too large. For this reason I don't post the schematics of Thule Audio amplifiers from the "Spirit" line.
If I would do this, my follow repair work is again very much larger as consequence. And also the costs for the user.
If you send your device to the mentioned address from post #51, you will get a very fine sounded and hard to beat integrated amplifier.
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Now an associated website to the mentioned address from post #51 exist:
Home (pliniusaudio.de)
or
Home (audioconcept.eu)
All Thule Audio user's from Denmark and other European countries can ask there concerning repair service (only stereo devices but no multichannel devices such as 5.1 processors and multichannel amps).
All amps from the "Spirit" series in original/genuine condition should be sent to this company in any case - even if they are still working properly. Otherwise there is a risk for a collateral damage of the power amp section (equipped with ROHM ring emitter power BjT NPN/PNP devices - very hard to find in the meantime) as consequence of dehydrated power caps and SMD/SMT caps by the voltage regulators.
The used BHC-Aerovox T-POWER in various power amp devices - go to
http://www.dnm.co.uk/ALN20S.pdf
are definitely dried up and faulty/unusable. Nevertheless the amp still work (with a little buzzing, that can occur sporadically).
Schematic diagrams for Thule's stereo devices will not be released from there.
Schematic diagrams for Thule's multichannel stuff perhaps available by DALI
DALI-Lautsprecher - In Admiration Of Music
or by Connect Audio Germany - go to
Thule Audio
Home (pliniusaudio.de)
or
Home (audioconcept.eu)
All Thule Audio user's from Denmark and other European countries can ask there concerning repair service (only stereo devices but no multichannel devices such as 5.1 processors and multichannel amps).
All amps from the "Spirit" series in original/genuine condition should be sent to this company in any case - even if they are still working properly. Otherwise there is a risk for a collateral damage of the power amp section (equipped with ROHM ring emitter power BjT NPN/PNP devices - very hard to find in the meantime) as consequence of dehydrated power caps and SMD/SMT caps by the voltage regulators.
The used BHC-Aerovox T-POWER in various power amp devices - go to
http://www.dnm.co.uk/ALN20S.pdf
are definitely dried up and faulty/unusable. Nevertheless the amp still work (with a little buzzing, that can occur sporadically).
Schematic diagrams for Thule's stereo devices will not be released from there.
Schematic diagrams for Thule's multichannel stuff perhaps available by DALI
DALI-Lautsprecher - In Admiration Of Music
or by Connect Audio Germany - go to
Thule Audio
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Faulty Thule Audio PA250B II amplifier
Hello Everyone,
Reading this thread, I understood that support for multichannel amps is nearly non-existant, but I don't want to loose hope, yet.
I have a faulty Thule Audio PA250B mkII amplifier (left surround channel isn't working anymore and also left front channel isn't working when I switch to stereo). The technician, who checked it claims the problem is in one of the chips. As I understood he disabled the channel, because it kept burning and he suspects that this chip is to blame. From www.sidekick-audio.com I've found out that this is a custom resistor network made specially for Thule and no alternative can be found on the market. Unfortunately they don't have it. Asked another former distributor www.highendmusik.dk and the answer was the same.
Maybe someone could give me an advice where to ask about the chip or a workaround solution, or maybe, help to find schematics of that chip so a replica could be made (is Thule's technology bought by someone?).
I'd be very grateful for any information on this.
I've attached pictures of the faulty chip.
Thank you and best regards,
Andrej (Latvia, EU)
P.S. also does anybody know where to find a service manual exactly for PA250 mkII, because I have both manuals for PA250 and PA350, of which the latter is similar to the schematics of my amp, but still not exact
Hello Everyone,
Reading this thread, I understood that support for multichannel amps is nearly non-existant, but I don't want to loose hope, yet.
I have a faulty Thule Audio PA250B mkII amplifier (left surround channel isn't working anymore and also left front channel isn't working when I switch to stereo). The technician, who checked it claims the problem is in one of the chips. As I understood he disabled the channel, because it kept burning and he suspects that this chip is to blame. From www.sidekick-audio.com I've found out that this is a custom resistor network made specially for Thule and no alternative can be found on the market. Unfortunately they don't have it. Asked another former distributor www.highendmusik.dk and the answer was the same.
Maybe someone could give me an advice where to ask about the chip or a workaround solution, or maybe, help to find schematics of that chip so a replica could be made (is Thule's technology bought by someone?).
I'd be very grateful for any information on this.
I've attached pictures of the faulty chip.
Thank you and best regards,
Andrej (Latvia, EU)
P.S. also does anybody know where to find a service manual exactly for PA250 mkII, because I have both manuals for PA250 and PA350, of which the latter is similar to the schematics of my amp, but still not exact
Attachments
during the check in inventories of NOS Thule Audio components we note, that there are yet a small amount of integrated amps and power amps from the "Spirit" series without the logo "Thule" at the front, partly unused (NOS) and partly in used condition. All devices for 230VAC - i. e. not for use in the U. S. and other countries, where the mains voltage is 110VAC.
The outline looks like the follow pictures about
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/180929-thule-audio-components-overview-2.html
1) first both pics about post #12 - model "Start" and "Balance ONE"
(German versions, based on integrated amp models "IA60" and "IA60B")
2) first both pics about post #13 and the pic from post #16 - model "Spirit POWER AMP"
(equipped with Mainboard EM1015 Rev5)
Due to an existing "Pre-Out" also appropriate for Bi-amping modes.
Still very fine sounded amps, very hard to beat in sonic performance.
For prices ask the former German distributor:
Impressum
If you are owner of not working devices from Thule Audio, you can ask for service also there (except multi-channel components from Thule like e. g. AV100S, AV120S, DVA250B, IA250B, PA250B and PA350B for home cinema applications).
BTW - the developer was follow gentlemen:
http://kbh-hifi.dk/spaw2/foto_klubmoeder/thule_audio/P1000082.jpg
found by
http://kbh-hifi.dk/readarticle.php?article_id=227
The outline looks like the follow pictures about
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/180929-thule-audio-components-overview-2.html
1) first both pics about post #12 - model "Start" and "Balance ONE"
(German versions, based on integrated amp models "IA60" and "IA60B")
2) first both pics about post #13 and the pic from post #16 - model "Spirit POWER AMP"
(equipped with Mainboard EM1015 Rev5)
Due to an existing "Pre-Out" also appropriate for Bi-amping modes.
Still very fine sounded amps, very hard to beat in sonic performance.
For prices ask the former German distributor:
Impressum
If you are owner of not working devices from Thule Audio, you can ask for service also there (except multi-channel components from Thule like e. g. AV100S, AV120S, DVA250B, IA250B, PA250B and PA350B for home cinema applications).
BTW - the developer was follow gentlemen:
http://kbh-hifi.dk/spaw2/foto_klubmoeder/thule_audio/P1000082.jpg
found by
http://kbh-hifi.dk/readarticle.php?article_id=227
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I may be completely wrong, but this could simply be a standard part marked Thule or a special selection. You need to use an ohmmeter yo determine the configuration and values. These devices are made by numerous resistor vendors like Bourns, Speague, Vishay etc. if someone posts up a schematic we may be able to work out the value for you.
Is the new workplace from Anders Thule now in Finland?
Anders Thule - Finland | LinkedIn
Who know details?
Anders Thule - Finland | LinkedIn
Who know details?
cheers,
it looks like I'm the lucky owner of faulty Thule Spirit Start integrated with rev5 pcb.
So the good point is that it powers up, display lights up and volume could be adjusted.
One of the channels shows 26V dc offset, other about 1mV that is fine I suppose.
After a brief investigation it turned out that one of A1516 transistors is gone + 1k blue resistor (marked with red). The other Vishay smd resistor (316R) gets very hot once turned on and looks like burned, though still works, anyway I've desoldered it as well (marked with blue) and will replace.
The other two power transistors are fine (D1760Q & B1184Q), checked them as well.
It's not an issue to get these parts, though I'm a bit frightened by this post and I'm wondering could there be any other defective parts (for instance, two smd transistors marked with white. There are hardly visible markings on them - 1B p50 & 3B p75. So I tried to google them, but was unlucky. Hope these are fine)?!
Now the question, is it safe to replace A1516 and a burned resistor or should I investigate further?
tiefbassuebertr,
as you mentioned here that you modify and repair Thules, could you please advice me on my further actions as well as provide some clarification if possible regarding these two 1B p50 & 3B p75 smd transistors?
it looks like I'm the lucky owner of faulty Thule Spirit Start integrated with rev5 pcb.
So the good point is that it powers up, display lights up and volume could be adjusted.
One of the channels shows 26V dc offset, other about 1mV that is fine I suppose.
After a brief investigation it turned out that one of A1516 transistors is gone + 1k blue resistor (marked with red). The other Vishay smd resistor (316R) gets very hot once turned on and looks like burned, though still works, anyway I've desoldered it as well (marked with blue) and will replace.
The other two power transistors are fine (D1760Q & B1184Q), checked them as well.
It's not an issue to get these parts, though I'm a bit frightened by this post and I'm wondering could there be any other defective parts (for instance, two smd transistors marked with white. There are hardly visible markings on them - 1B p50 & 3B p75. So I tried to google them, but was unlucky. Hope these are fine)?!
Now the question, is it safe to replace A1516 and a burned resistor or should I investigate further?
tiefbassuebertr,
as you mentioned here that you modify and repair Thules, could you please advice me on my further actions as well as provide some clarification if possible regarding these two 1B p50 & 3B p75 smd transistors?
Attachments
Thule Audio Schematics & Manuals
Dear All searching for schematics for some of the Thule Audio line,
Many are available, reasonably priced from the following;
HiFi DIY products and accessories - Thule Audio service manuals - sidekick-audio.com
Contact and company information:
Sidekick Audio
Marielundvej 28
DK-2730 Herlev
Denmark
VAT: 31 27 17 03
Phone: +45 40 95 22 05 (Phone hours: Monday-sonday between 10:00 and 18:00 CET)
As a note:
I have a PR-150-B preamp and a PA-250-B amp along with their service manuals. I have never had a problem with either. Every person will have their opinion, and I find both of these among the best sounding ever produced by any company.
Good Luck and Best Regards,
Rich
Dear All searching for schematics for some of the Thule Audio line,
Many are available, reasonably priced from the following;
HiFi DIY products and accessories - Thule Audio service manuals - sidekick-audio.com
Contact and company information:
Sidekick Audio
Marielundvej 28
DK-2730 Herlev
Denmark
VAT: 31 27 17 03
Phone: +45 40 95 22 05 (Phone hours: Monday-sonday between 10:00 and 18:00 CET)
As a note:
I have a PR-150-B preamp and a PA-250-B amp along with their service manuals. I have never had a problem with either. Every person will have their opinion, and I find both of these among the best sounding ever produced by any company.
Good Luck and Best Regards,
Rich
Hi
Does anyone have a service manual for the Thule Sphere AV120? It has started with the annoying high pitch noise that almost everyone seems to get after a few years. I think i might try and only replace all capacitors and see if that helps. The PCB is in good condition otherwise and i cant see that anything is remotely burnt or brown to the color.
And also, if anyone has a broken Thule amp i might be interested in buying the volume potentiometer from you since mine is broken (shipping accident)
Does anyone have a service manual for the Thule Sphere AV120? It has started with the annoying high pitch noise that almost everyone seems to get after a few years. I think i might try and only replace all capacitors and see if that helps. The PCB is in good condition otherwise and i cant see that anything is remotely burnt or brown to the color.
And also, if anyone has a broken Thule amp i might be interested in buying the volume potentiometer from you since mine is broken (shipping accident)
Thanks! All help is appriciated.
Just ordered my capacitors, should get them next week and then start to dissemble the Sphere.. i will take pictures and upload them here or in a new thread.
Maybe create a new thread called, pictures of your Thule audio repairs where we all can upload pictures and maybe get a small database of repairs some day.
Just ordered my capacitors, should get them next week and then start to dissemble the Sphere.. i will take pictures and upload them here or in a new thread.
Maybe create a new thread called, pictures of your Thule audio repairs where we all can upload pictures and maybe get a small database of repairs some day.
I would need a piece of advice concerning repairing my faulty Thule.
Finally I got all the parts and replaced two faulty transistors and 1k smd R13 (marked with red). I'm attaching the scheme from IA60 that is very similar to mine except 2 output transistors marked with green (none of them is on my pcb).
So I replaced the parts, attached the sinks back and turned on the device. Sudden smoke has appeared and R13 started to melt. I have double checked all the near devices before soldering new transistors (Q51, Q44, Q49, Q36 as well as resistors). So what could that be? I have replaced R13 with 0.25w similar size resistor as original one that was burned.
Finally I got all the parts and replaced two faulty transistors and 1k smd R13 (marked with red). I'm attaching the scheme from IA60 that is very similar to mine except 2 output transistors marked with green (none of them is on my pcb).
So I replaced the parts, attached the sinks back and turned on the device. Sudden smoke has appeared and R13 started to melt. I have double checked all the near devices before soldering new transistors (Q51, Q44, Q49, Q36 as well as resistors). So what could that be?
I have replaced R13 with 0.25w similar size resistor as original one that was burned.Attachments
Advice concerning repairing your faulty Thule
Hello Konstantin,
Sad to hear you still have a problem after replacing all those parts. Unfortunately to guess what may have caused the 1k resistor, R13 to burn is difficult because the power supply has a 100 volt potential that can be conducted across it for many reasons.
A worst-case scenario is that resistor R13 would have to be able to conduct 100ma, which is 10 watts by a 0.25 watt device.
A version of this scenario could happen if both Q30 and Q36 were shorted, collector to emitter. This kind of short could also be made by solder bridging traces. Could be caused by failure of Q49 and Q51.
Looking back further into the amplifier, the bias stage, with all other semiconductors having been ok, if D3 was open or lost connection with its trace, or R14 being open or lost contact with either of its traces, or pot R91 being open between itself and R14, then both Q30 and Q36 would be biased into very high conduction, far greater than R13, the 0.25 watt resistor could sustain.
These are the area’s I would look at first. Could be other conditions although most probable are those I just detailed for you.
Good Luck.
Best Regards,
Rich
Hello Konstantin,
Sad to hear you still have a problem after replacing all those parts. Unfortunately to guess what may have caused the 1k resistor, R13 to burn is difficult because the power supply has a 100 volt potential that can be conducted across it for many reasons.
A worst-case scenario is that resistor R13 would have to be able to conduct 100ma, which is 10 watts by a 0.25 watt device.
A version of this scenario could happen if both Q30 and Q36 were shorted, collector to emitter. This kind of short could also be made by solder bridging traces. Could be caused by failure of Q49 and Q51.
Looking back further into the amplifier, the bias stage, with all other semiconductors having been ok, if D3 was open or lost connection with its trace, or R14 being open or lost contact with either of its traces, or pot R91 being open between itself and R14, then both Q30 and Q36 would be biased into very high conduction, far greater than R13, the 0.25 watt resistor could sustain.
These are the area’s I would look at first. Could be other conditions although most probable are those I just detailed for you.
Good Luck.
Best Regards,
Rich
Oh that's bad, had a similar problem with an old Sony TA-N80ES.. every time i had replaced something, something else went bust :/
I still haven't received my capacitors but now im having second thoughts about removing all the capacitors, here is why.
I was fiddling around inside the amp and cleaning it, tested it afterwards and my high pitch noise was almost gone! Thought that was strange so i started to wiggle some of the components on the PCB and voila, the 13-Pin connector seemed like it had something to do with it since the noise went up and down as i poked it.
I decided to remove the cable from the lower PCB and reconnect it by pressing it down and then refitted the clip that covers the connector and after that the high pitch was gone!
I tried it with my ESS AMT speakers and they have a sensitivity around 100db (other 12" fitted), there was some static noise when i put my ear almost into the Heil Transformer but it was really low so i compared it with my IA350B which i also have and it to had about the same amount of noise so mission complete!
I still haven't received my capacitors but now im having second thoughts about removing all the capacitors, here is why.
I was fiddling around inside the amp and cleaning it, tested it afterwards and my high pitch noise was almost gone! Thought that was strange so i started to wiggle some of the components on the PCB and voila, the 13-Pin connector seemed like it had something to do with it since the noise went up and down as i poked it.
I decided to remove the cable from the lower PCB and reconnect it by pressing it down and then refitted the clip that covers the connector and after that the high pitch was gone!
I tried it with my ESS AMT speakers and they have a sensitivity around 100db (other 12" fitted), there was some static noise when i put my ear almost into the Heil Transformer but it was really low so i compared it with my IA350B which i also have and it to had about the same amount of noise so mission complete!
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The reason therefore are unwanted oscillation. The output power follower consist of a triplet, that basically is better than an ordinary darlington, but more critical in order of the PCB layout.I would need a piece of advice concerning repairing my faulty Thule.
Finally I got all the parts and replaced two faulty transistors and 1k smd R13 (marked with red). I'm attaching the scheme from IA60 that is very similar to mine except 2 output transistors marked with green (none of them is on my pcb).
So I replaced the parts, attached the sinks back and turned on the device. Sudden smoke has appeared and R13 started to melt. I have double checked all the near devices before soldering new transistors (Q51, Q44, Q49, Q36 as well as resistors). So what could that be?
Convert the power follower in a darlington, i. e. remove the first stage Q51/49 and perform all additional steps therefore.
Unfortunately I cannot assist you in respect to all necessary details.
hi Rich,
thanks again for your help! Will do that later once have some free time!
If the fault will not reveal itself will convert the output stage to darlington config.
tiefbassuebertr,
just a small clarification, should it look like that in the end? I'm frightened to cook any other parts accidentally.
thanks again for your help! Will do that later once have some free time!
If the fault will not reveal itself will convert the output stage to darlington config.
tiefbassuebertr,
just a small clarification, should it look like that in the end? I'm frightened to cook any other parts accidentally.
Attachments
Partly right, bot very important details lacks.
check ot the attached pdf - perhaps this helps. But maybe not. Read all my posts here to understand, why.