Hi,
if your speakers have bi-wireable terminals then you can bi-amplify.
The impedance seen by each amplifier is raised considerably outside the passband of each half of the passive crossover. This eases the stress felt by the amp and it's PSU and often results in a small improvement in performance.
I recommend passive multi-amping. I reckon that the extra money spent on an extra amplifier is far better value than spending the same money on exotic cabling.
if your speakers have bi-wireable terminals then you can bi-amplify.
The impedance seen by each amplifier is raised considerably outside the passband of each half of the passive crossover. This eases the stress felt by the amp and it's PSU and often results in a small improvement in performance.
I recommend passive multi-amping. I reckon that the extra money spent on an extra amplifier is far better value than spending the same money on exotic cabling.
different amplifiers for biamping
I once built a triamp system that worked out very well. I used IC amplifiers, with a separate amp for the tweeter, mid and woofer. I think the biggest benefit is when the crossover is before the amplifier (active) and the output of the amp is directly driving the speaker coil. This isolates the speaker impedance variations from the crossover circuit as well as provides a huge dampening factor. (For commercial two terminal speakers, you would need to bypass the passive crossovers inside the cabinet.)
My amps were as different as the speaker drivers: the tweeter amp was a tiny very fast amp (a signal op amp driving six BUF634 buffers), the mid was fast but with more current and the woofer amp was slow but more current. All the amps are fast enough that any variation the time lag (latency) is not an issue for audio; it's a fraction of a micro-second.
As Nelson says, it's good to be able to adjust the gain. I left the amps at the same gain, but adjusted the gain in the active crossovers. This eliminated the power and voltage range waste in the padding resistors which are in passive crossovers.
I once built a triamp system that worked out very well. I used IC amplifiers, with a separate amp for the tweeter, mid and woofer. I think the biggest benefit is when the crossover is before the amplifier (active) and the output of the amp is directly driving the speaker coil. This isolates the speaker impedance variations from the crossover circuit as well as provides a huge dampening factor. (For commercial two terminal speakers, you would need to bypass the passive crossovers inside the cabinet.)
My amps were as different as the speaker drivers: the tweeter amp was a tiny very fast amp (a signal op amp driving six BUF634 buffers), the mid was fast but with more current and the woofer amp was slow but more current. All the amps are fast enough that any variation the time lag (latency) is not an issue for audio; it's a fraction of a micro-second.
As Nelson says, it's good to be able to adjust the gain. I left the amps at the same gain, but adjusted the gain in the active crossovers. This eliminated the power and voltage range waste in the padding resistors which are in passive crossovers.
Hi,
Bi-amping normal two way speakers only makes sense under certain
circumstances, otherwise you are spending a lot of money driving
a pair of tweeters.
These are :
The power amplifier does not have fantastic current delivery.
The power amplifier is stereo with a shared supply.
In this case bi-amping with the same stereo amplifier per channel works well.
New crossovers are not required (unless they are not bi-ampable).
Other options are a smaller (than the other) 1st order high passed
input amplifier for treble but the gains of the amplifiers must match.
/sreten.
Bi-amping normal two way speakers only makes sense under certain
circumstances, otherwise you are spending a lot of money driving
a pair of tweeters.
These are :
The power amplifier does not have fantastic current delivery.
The power amplifier is stereo with a shared supply.
In this case bi-amping with the same stereo amplifier per channel works well.
New crossovers are not required (unless they are not bi-ampable).
Other options are a smaller (than the other) 1st order high passed
input amplifier for treble but the gains of the amplifiers must match.
/sreten.
well my good amps are all diy, so gain matching is no problem...
I would like to retain my DX HRII amps for the tweeters, as they are very clear sounding, yet very smooth on the ear.
I think the bass on my sytem gets a bit compromised at higher volumes due to the low output from the amp (in the 40W area)... combined with inefficiency of about 86db/W
Question... is it advisable to make up for sensitivity diffirences between woofer and tweeter in the amps?
I would like to retain my DX HRII amps for the tweeters, as they are very clear sounding, yet very smooth on the ear.
I think the bass on my sytem gets a bit compromised at higher volumes due to the low output from the amp (in the 40W area)... combined with inefficiency of about 86db/W
Question... is it advisable to make up for sensitivity diffirences between woofer and tweeter in the amps?
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