I have a bunch of original Tesla TO3 devices sitting here, and as much as I hate mounting to3's, I would like to make them of some use. I couldn't find any datasheet, but in a book I have I saw that they are NPN's rated at 120V, 8A, 50W. What can I do with them ... maybe a quasi-complementary design ? Wich one EASY and simple would you refer to me... I have six devices :
Also - I have one pair of KD607/KD617 (80V, 10A, 70W), and one pair of KD503 (80V, 20A, 150W). The 503's are connected with the first question, but what about the low power complementary pair 607/617?
For the power supply I have one 2x22V transformer, and one 2x31V. Probably about +/-30 and +/-42.
Thank you for your attention.
Also - I have one pair of KD607/KD617 (80V, 10A, 70W), and one pair of KD503 (80V, 20A, 150W). The 503's are connected with the first question, but what about the low power complementary pair 607/617?
For the power supply I have one 2x22V transformer, and one 2x31V. Probably about +/-30 and +/-42.Thank you for your attention.
what about this?
http://www.tcaas.btinternet.co.uk/index-1.htm
I built one for my self some time ago and it works really well.
the output transistors are not critic use any colour u like.
I used the very common 2n3055 and it works..
attention though to the heat this needs a BIG heatzink
this is a very simple amp and there maight be some room for experiments.
http://www.tcaas.btinternet.co.uk/index-1.htm
I built one for my self some time ago and it works really well.
the output transistors are not critic use any colour u like.
I used the very common 2n3055 and it works..
attention though to the heat this needs a BIG heatzink
this is a very simple amp and there maight be some room for experiments.
Forget the KU606!!!!
Long ago we did not have acces to normal transistors, and we had just these our old Teslas. This is a switching, highly nonlinear transistor, extremely sensitive to 2nd breakdown! I can ship you a truck of them, if you wish.
KD607/617 are a bit better, but nothing to call home about. They are for linear purposes.
Long ago we did not have acces to normal transistors, and we had just these our old Teslas. This is a switching, highly nonlinear transistor, extremely sensitive to 2nd breakdown! I can ship you a truck of them, if you wish.
KD607/617 are a bit better, but nothing to call home about. They are for linear purposes.
I hate mounting TO3's just like you, and by looking at the lower power rating of most of those, it may be more sensible to use some nice Flat-Pack transistors instead. Also, if you already have TO-3 heatsinks, you can mount 2 plat-pack devices in the place for one TO-3, using the two mounting screws, and saving heatsink space for other parts.
I do like to use extra TO-3's for non-heatsinked projects, like small voltage regulators or power supply components. You can get them red-hot and they don't die.
I do like to use extra TO-3's for non-heatsinked projects, like small voltage regulators or power supply components. You can get them red-hot and they don't die.
Thank you for your replies, I really appretiate it! So the KU's are definetly out of the question, all that is left are the KD607/617 and the two KD503's. About the last post - you are absolutely correct, but genuine flat-pack toshiba devices are reeeeeeeally hard to find here ... almost impossible. Can I use the 607/617 with the Rod Elliot Project 03 ? (or 3A) with +/-42V power supplies ? As far as I know the voltage rating of the output devices has to be the sum of the power supplies, beacause at power-on the whole voltage is dropped over one of the two outputs, is that correct ?
That is for the first KD's. Wich quasi-complementary circuit would you refer to me for the second ones - the KD503's ? And do they have a complementary brother ?
That is for the first KD's. Wich quasi-complementary circuit would you refer to me for the second ones - the KD503's ? And do they have a complementary brother ?
PMA said:
That is true, but my friend ... we are in the EU looooong before it was formed as this so called Union, the first inhabitants of these lands were the Thracians and the Slavonic wich are the ancestors of the proto-Bulgarian people ....... anyways, I got a bit carried off.
Yes, we did entered the EU, but that didn't change ANYTHING at all in our stupid country .... even made some things worse.
A pair of 230W 350V/15A MJL or NJL 4281/4302 from www.onsemi.com will give nearly the same performance of a High-end TO-3, and for sure, better than the older ones. They are the big TO-264 pkg, and they perform nicely with a good heatsink.
EWorkshop1708 said:
But like he said, not everyone can get the stinking things. Here in the US, we have Newark, Future, Digi-Key, and CREDIT CARDS. Elsewhere, it can be like getting Plutonium in 1955.
What we need is a really good amp design that uses only 2N3055's and TIP devices. I've taken a stab at making one, even designed the PCB, but it's anything but simple. And may not be very cheap unless you have a huge stash of those low-performance devices.
I meant TIP41/42 drivers. Much less likely someone is gonna fake a 50 cent 60 watt part - but I guess it can happen.
If you can get 2N3055s, the $64000 question is can you get 2955's, or are you stuck doing a QC amp? Most of the off-brand 2N3055's are the slow-mode version which work ok in a darlington pair but have switch-off problems in a CFP.
If you can get 2N3055s, the $64000 question is can you get 2955's, or are you stuck doing a QC amp? Most of the off-brand 2N3055's are the slow-mode version which work ok in a darlington pair but have switch-off problems in a CFP.
Quasi complementary it is ...... when I ask in the stores here about MJ2955 they look me like i'm some kind of alien or something ... 
About the TIP41/42 drivers - a friend sent me some ON semi samples of MJE15032/33, and the packages of our TIP's look exactly like the original MJE's - the leads, the black corpse, everything, so I guess that we can say that I can trust these tip's, and have access to more of them. Think these days i'll dig off one of them and break it ... just for the sport - to check out the die.
About the TIP41/42 drivers - a friend sent me some ON semi samples of MJE15032/33, and the packages of our TIP's look exactly like the original MJE's - the leads, the black corpse, everything, so I guess that we can say that I can trust these tip's, and have access to more of them. Think these days i'll dig off one of them and break it ... just for the sport - to check out the die.
kalmara said:
There is one of the funniest lines in one of the funniest movies ever made, and I mean, one one of the absolutest funniest movies made about THRACE. (hey, 50% of me is a proto-Slavonic person).
A matched pair of 2sk170 and 2sj74, shipped anywhere in the world, for the first person who comes up with the answer -- that being the title of the movie.
Hint, if you know anything about dobermans, you can probably figure the answer, although this is mixed media.
kalmara said:Quasi complementary it is ...... when I ask in the stores here about MJ2955 they look me like i'm some kind of alien or something ...
About the TIP41/42 drivers - a friend sent me some ON semi samples of MJE15032/33, and the packages of our TIP's look exactly like the original MJE's - the leads, the black corpse, everything, so I guess that we can say that I can trust these tip's, and have access to more of them. Think these days i'll dig off one of them and break it ... just for the sport - to check out the die.
Reminds me of the early days of Radio Shack. I learned how to get away with all sorts of non-recommended substitutions when all that was available were "40 volt" and "60 volt" parts. You need a test set for BVCEO (just operate the device as a zener from a CCS of a few mA) and you can use 3055's to a bit higher than 60 volts. Usually, +/-40 is no problem.
If you have access to MJE1503x parts, that solves the driver problem. No TIPs needed. But the TIP41/42 are usually safe if that's all you can get. Heck, I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that's what ends up in a "fake 2SC3281" package. Again, you can test ungraded (no A, B, or C) devices and select for 80V operation.
You got me wrong - I don't have access to MJE's, just have a couple of samples. The TIP's are graded C, but ... I am unlikely dissapointed.
Here it is, "my" TIP41C, compared to the genuine MJE15033 :
I couldn't find my caliper to measure it, but at best the die is about 1.5 mm X 1.5 mm. Too bad. Now I'm stuck again ... well, I'll keep searching for drivers, in the mean time can you post a simple circuit how to make the test set for the C-E voltage measurment for the 3055's. And the amp schematic (& PCB maybe ) that you are reffering to.
p.s. I found this pic somewhere over the internet, it shows the die difference between a genuine 2SC5200 (15A, 230V, 150W), genuine MJ15033 (8A, 250V, 50W), and a fake 2SA1943 (15A, 230V, 150W !!)
p.s.2. The TIP's are supposed to be 6A, 100V, 65W ... maybe the die is big enough to work with that ... please tell me if I can use them.
aaaaand ... p.s.3 I think I found something usefull ... check it out :
Here it is, "my" TIP41C, compared to the genuine MJE15033 :
I couldn't find my caliper to measure it, but at best the die is about 1.5 mm X 1.5 mm. Too bad.
Now I'm stuck again ... well, I'll keep searching for drivers, in the mean time can you post a simple circuit how to make the test set for the C-E voltage measurment for the 3055's. And the amp schematic (& PCB maybe ) that you are reffering to. p.s. I found this pic somewhere over the internet, it shows the die difference between a genuine 2SC5200 (15A, 230V, 150W), genuine MJ15033 (8A, 250V, 50W), and a fake 2SA1943 (15A, 230V, 150W !!)
p.s.2. The TIP's are supposed to be 6A, 100V, 65W ... maybe the die is big enough to work with that ... please tell me if I can use them.
aaaaand ... p.s.3
I think I found something usefull ... check it out :
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