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#71 | ||
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Stockholm
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Mooly,
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#72 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Stockholm
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jacco,
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#73 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Stockholm
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peranders,
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#74 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Hello Alex--- That looks fantastic to see it like that. I will have a much closer look later but it all looks good. Have you etched a board yet or is it still all in the machine as it were.
I see you have gone for a film cap for the input and a star ground on the PCB itself.The only suggestions I could offer are to make sure the 220mfd rail caps are physically big enough on the PCB, on my test DipTrace layout I should have gone to the next can size up. The other point is the print around R14, the 22 K feedback resistor. I learnt this from Doug Selfs articles some 15 years ago now, that the "correct" take off for the speaker and the feedback point should be as close together as possible. It sounds so obvious but so many amps fail on this one point alone. The current distribution through that print is anything but constant due to it's small but finite resistance, particularly so in a class AB amp where distortion from the rails creeps in. It's the most important connection in the amp. If you could move a probe around that print with the amp working the distortion characteristics would vary greatly. If you look at my layout that "spidery" connection is an attempt to get the two points as close together on the board as possible. The junction of R14 and R26 (are you putting your R26 off PCB, which is fine but again it's a vital part of the design) is the ONLY point in the amp where the output is corrected by the feedback and is a true representation of the input. --- I see you have both a preset and R8. I put two R8's on mine so I could get a closer value to whatever the pot setting was. It's just me-- I don't like presets, particularly when there are a few milliamps going through the wiper. As I say -- you just don't know what they get up to when your not watching" Fantastic job though. Regards Karl |
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#75 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Nigel,
You mention ground planes. I have never really looked into this as far as audio goes ( audio power anyway ). The technique does certainly have it's uses though. |
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#76 | |
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Did it Himself
diyAudio Member
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__________________
www.readresearch.co.uk my website for UK diy audio people - designs, PCBs, kits and more |
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#77 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: ROMANIA ,
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Hi .
I have red all comments , and what can I sey ,thank you for the nice words . Another PCB revised http://i26.tinypic.com/2el8e92.jpgthis time better regards alex
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#78 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Hi,
Which circuit ? Nigels..
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#79 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Hi Alex,
Thats it much better. How are you mounting the outputs-- they would I think have to go under the PCB now.
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#80 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Carlisle, England
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You can eitehr add another layer with a ground plane or simply add a ground plane on the same layer as your current copper that connects to ground. It costs nothing to do if using the same layer as your other copper, but decreases the ground impedance.
__________________
http://www.murtonpikesystems.co.uk PCBCAD50 pcb design software. |
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