C4 is a Miller compensation cap. Use a C0G/NP0 ceramic. Pick one that matches the lead spacing of the PCB you are using. Some users may advocate silver mica. Your call.
C8 is a HF bypass cap. I don’t think the actual value is all that critical. Electrolytics are probably fine here. Maybe look for bipolar in the lead spacing you need.
I’d also suggest you match your component numbering to the schematic from post #1 to avoid confusion.
C8 is a HF bypass cap. I don’t think the actual value is all that critical. Electrolytics are probably fine here. Maybe look for bipolar in the lead spacing you need.
I’d also suggest you match your component numbering to the schematic from post #1 to avoid confusion.
Thank you a lot
Just to learn: It looked like DigiKey did not have polystyrene capacitors, do they have an other name?
Thanks, I have a very limited knowledge about materials and how they react in electronic circuits.
You are completely correct, but as a first timer, is it a great thing to know what value and type it have to be and then search trough components and find the footprints in KiCad.
I see it as a smaller step into the fantastic world. Untill I have a better grasp on materials and there functions, I'd happy to take it easy and slow
Exactly. I don't think I ever used even a simple parts list unless it was one I made up by following the schematic and would be compatible with my existing hardware .
Experience, good photographs and sometimes, trial and error help make the right quality and dimensional decisions for a good, economical build. Some of us like to have everything neatly specified down to the smallest nut and bolt but that's no way to learn much other than what someone else decided from their existing parts or otherwise found to work for them.
Schematics should not present any language problems but the specification of components (type, grade, dimensions etc.) can be a significant problem to newbies if the designer doesn't include enough detail or discussion in the text of an article etc. Then you may need suggestions or advice from others who have already done this but really, that learning process its what Do It Yourself is all about
.Exactly and it's a lot more fun. I do not have a component list, "only" the schematic and it does make it a lot harder, but also more fun.Exactly. I don't think I ever used even a simple parts list unless it was one I made up by following the schematic and would be compatible with my existing hardware .
Experience, good photographs and sometimes, trial and error help make the right quality and dimensional decisions for a good, economical build. Some of us like to have everything neatly specified down to the smallest nut and bolt but that's no way to learn much other than what someone else decided from their existing parts or otherwise found to work for them.
Schematics should not present any language problems but the specification of components (type, grade, dimensions etc.) can be a significant problem to newbies if the designer doesn't include enough detail or discussion in the text of an article etc. Then you may need suggestions or advice from others who have already done this but really, that learning process its what Do It Yourself is all about
My "problem" is that I have no idea on how a metal cap is reacting vs a polystyrene cap, so I have to try to follow the schematic. But my idea is also that the designer, have selected values and types for a reason.
I do also struggle with some of the values, you have two caps, one with 22 as text and one with 22p as text. So I am assuming that no unit means the standard unit Micro.
The value of 22p polystyrene, have I learned is the same as a Polypropylene but I can't find such a low value.
Polystyrene caps are generally obsolete but they are treasured by some audiophiles for their subtle tonal effect and loathed by others because they melt if you are not quick enough at soldering or the leads are not long enough to limit or sink the heat. They are still made in low volume, often by hand and thus expensive. Even if you can buy them as NOS on Ebay, don't try these unless you can solder fast, your skills and preparation are good, the leads are very clean and bright and the solder/flux combination tins rapidly.
NPO or COG grade (multilayer or MLCC type) ceramic caps are standard types, quite small, thermally stable and otherwise best suited here if the voltage rating is adequate. Cheap, standard ceramics are only 50V rated which is not enough for many audio applications. Other ceramic grades usually have weird distortion and high thermal drift problems so don't try them in critical areas like the input stage, compensation and feedback path of amplifiers. Google is your friend for general information, data sheets etc. of any specific grades of capacitor. Or, try this with translation software: Ceramic Capacitor: MLCC, X7R, C0G, Y5V... >> Electronics Notes
NPO or COG grade (multilayer or MLCC type) ceramic caps are standard types, quite small, thermally stable and otherwise best suited here if the voltage rating is adequate. Cheap, standard ceramics are only 50V rated which is not enough for many audio applications. Other ceramic grades usually have weird distortion and high thermal drift problems so don't try them in critical areas like the input stage, compensation and feedback path of amplifiers. Google is your friend for general information, data sheets etc. of any specific grades of capacitor. Or, try this with translation software: Ceramic Capacitor: MLCC, X7R, C0G, Y5V... >> Electronics Notes
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These are (imo )the best type to use for the 22pF.
https://cpc.farnell.com/lcr-compone...onents/capacitors/film-capacitors/prl/results
https://cpc.farnell.com/lcr-compone...onents/capacitors/film-capacitors/prl/results
Attachments
Yes, only one 22pF. There is another cap at the input (150pF) that should (ideally) be of the same type:
https://cpc.farnell.com/lcr-compone.../capacitor-160v-150pf/dp/CA05855?st=capacitor
https://cpc.farnell.com/lcr-compone.../capacitor-160v-150pf/dp/CA05855?st=capacitor
