Question regarding to output power trans

hc167 · 5th March 2008, 11:08 PM

hi:

I have a question. And hope someone can help. I have a Accuphase E202 and it stopped working. What was happening is when it powered on. I can hear "pop pop" sound so I shut it off right away. Then I did the same thing again to verify that the relay is click on. I hear the click from the relay. However, it also created some smoke from around the power trans region. I have not yet inspect the amp yet. So I would inagine that the power trans are gone. And the power trans are 2SA679 and 2SC1079. What are the best substitution for those transitors since I do not expect to get the original one (30 yrs old amp, what can I expect?).

unclejed613 · 6th March 2008, 12:25 AM

according to www.datasheetarchive.com the replacements for these are as follows:
2SA679:
2SA1028, 2SA1042, 2SA1061, 2SA1072, 2SA1097, 2SA1102, 2SA1103, 2SA1205, 2SA1265, 2SA1694, 2SA1685, 2SA1859, 2SA1866, 2SA1907, 2SA1908, 2SA1909, MJ15002

2SA1079:
2SC1584, 2SC2522, 2SD424, 2SD425, 2SD551, 2SD675A, 2SD733, MJ15001

you will probabky need to crossreference these to find which ones are intended as complements. if you look up the daa sheet for 2SC2522, it will tell you which of the 2SA numbers is it's complement. the MOT/ON devices ARE complements and are better (higher Vceo, Ic and Pd ratings with a similar beta range) devices than the originals.

Leolabs · 6th March 2008, 01:03 AM

Are those Sanken ???If so,replacement would be easier.

hc167 · 6th March 2008, 01:06 AM

OK, so basically, what should I get? japanese transitor or Moto/OnSemi transitor? I know there is no right or wrong answer. But is it better for japanese amp to get the japanese transitors to make it sound as close as original? Or Moto/OnSemi transitor will actually do a better job? Also, since it is very old amp. Should I replace the drivers trans also?

hc167 · 6th March 2008, 01:07 AM

no, those are not Sanken, they are the old toshiba.

spind · 6th March 2008, 01:39 AM

I have 3 pairs (I believe) of these that I took out of an E-202. They were good then so they should be fine now. PM me if interested.

unclejed613 · 6th March 2008, 02:13 AM

as long as you get complementary devices, it shouldnt change the sound. if you were replacing stabilized-beta devices such as 2SA1302/2SC3281 your choices for replacement would be more limited.

poynton · 6th March 2008, 07:58 AM

Don't forget to put the smoke back in, it won't work without it !

oh, and don't forget to check the driver transistors and resistors as well.

Some electrolytic caps may also need replacing.

Andy

IsakAlexander · 6th March 2008, 12:39 PM

"if you were replacing stabilized-beta devices such as 2SA1302/2SC3281 your choices for replacement would be more limited."

What about replacing 2SB1163 and 2SD1718 for 2SA1302 and 2SC3281? Will it work without any other modifications?

spind · 6th March 2008, 01:21 PM

Don't forget the MJ21193/94's or MJ21195/96's---probably the best TO-3 outputs that you can still easily buy. It sounds like there is more damage in this amp than just the outputs. The drivers on this amp are TO-66's which may be harder to find---however, I did get some from Consolidated Electronics a couple of years ago.
http://www.ceitron.com/

Good luck getting this amp going again,
Steve.

5th March 2008, 11:08 PM	#1
hc167 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	Question regarding to output power trans hi: I have a question. And hope someone can help. I have a Accuphase E202 and it stopped working. What was happening is when it powered on. I can hear "pop pop" sound so I shut it off right away. Then I did the same thing again to verify that the relay is click on. I hear the click from the relay. However, it also created some smoke from around the power trans region. I have not yet inspect the amp yet. So I would inagine that the power trans are gone. And the power trans are 2SA679 and 2SC1079. What are the best substitution for those transitors since I do not expect to get the original one (30 yrs old amp, what can I expect?).

6th March 2008, 12:25 AM	#2
unclejed613 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2006	according to www.datasheetarchive.com the replacements for these are as follows: 2SA679: 2SA1028, 2SA1042, 2SA1061, 2SA1072, 2SA1097, 2SA1102, 2SA1103, 2SA1205, 2SA1265, 2SA1694, 2SA1685, 2SA1859, 2SA1866, 2SA1907, 2SA1908, 2SA1909, MJ15002 2SA1079: 2SC1584, 2SC2522, 2SD424, 2SD425, 2SD551, 2SD675A, 2SD733, MJ15001 you will probabky need to crossreference these to find which ones are intended as complements. if you look up the daa sheet for 2SC2522, it will tell you which of the 2SA numbers is it's complement. the MOT/ON devices ARE complements and are better (higher Vceo, Ic and Pd ratings with a similar beta range) devices than the originals. __________________ Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net spammer trap: spammers must die

6th March 2008, 02:13 AM	#7
unclejed613 diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2006	as long as you get complementary devices, it shouldnt change the sound. if you were replacing stabilized-beta devices such as 2SA1302/2SC3281 your choices for replacement would be more limited. __________________ Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net spammer trap: spammers must die

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6th March 2008, 01:03 AM	#3
Leolabs diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bukit Mertajam	Are those Sanken ???If so,replacement would be easier.

6th March 2008, 01:06 AM	#4
hc167 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	OK, so basically, what should I get? japanese transitor or Moto/OnSemi transitor? I know there is no right or wrong answer. But is it better for japanese amp to get the japanese transitors to make it sound as close as original? Or Moto/OnSemi transitor will actually do a better job? Also, since it is very old amp. Should I replace the drivers trans also?

6th March 2008, 01:07 AM	#5
hc167 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2006	no, those are not Sanken, they are the old toshiba.

6th March 2008, 01:39 AM	#6
spind diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Winnipeg	I have 3 pairs (I believe) of these that I took out of an E-202. They were good then so they should be fine now. PM me if interested.

6th March 2008, 07:58 AM	#8
poynton Magneto the Gravity Man diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: A life on the ocean waves when I'm not at home in N. Wales (but I'm not Welsh so no sheep jokes!)	Don't forget to put the smoke back in, it won't work without it ! oh, and don't forget to check the driver transistors and resistors as well. Some electrolytic caps may also need replacing. Andy

6th March 2008, 12:39 PM	#9
IsakAlexander diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	"if you were replacing stabilized-beta devices such as 2SA1302/2SC3281 your choices for replacement would be more limited." What about replacing 2SB1163 and 2SD1718 for 2SA1302 and 2SC3281? Will it work without any other modifications?

6th March 2008, 01:21 PM	#10
spind diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Winnipeg	Don't forget the MJ21193/94's or MJ21195/96's---probably the best TO-3 outputs that you can still easily buy. It sounds like there is more damage in this amp than just the outputs. The drivers on this amp are TO-66's which may be harder to find---however, I did get some from Consolidated Electronics a couple of years ago. http://www.ceitron.com/ Good luck getting this amp going again, Steve.

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