Official bridgeclone site?
Why don't you go have a look here?
http://www.diyvideo.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=11133
These days I'm trying to develop small pcb modules holding two circuits each that might be used as stereo pairs or bridged and the paralleled for more power/current.
Carlos
Matttcattt said:
Why don't you go have a look here?
http://www.diyvideo.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=11133
These days I'm trying to develop small pcb modules holding two circuits each that might be used as stereo pairs or bridged and the paralleled for more power/current.
Carlos
what is this 47 labs that i keep reading about?
what is the difference between a gaincard and a gainclone?
what is a servo? (im sure your not talking about the ones in radio controled models
)
whats the difference between stereo and dual-mono?
why make a bridge rectifier from diodes, why not buy one?
what is RMS?
what is the difference between a gaincard and a gainclone?
what is a servo? (im sure your not talking about the ones in radio controled models
)whats the difference between stereo and dual-mono?
why make a bridge rectifier from diodes, why not buy one?
what is RMS?
Matttcattt said:what is this 47 labs that i keep reading about?
what is the difference between a gaincard and a gainclone?
what is a servo? (im sure your not talking about the ones in radio controled models
whats the difference between stereo and dual-mono?
why make a bridge rectifier from diodes, why not buy one?
what is RMS?
47 labs was / is the original producer of the GainCard amplifier, based in Japan.
A GainCard is the original amplifier, and refers to the Amp really being just a small PCB card with - what was the count again? 12? - only very few parts on the card. GainClone was the name someone brought up for the attempt to rebuild this GainCard amplifier DIY style.
A servo (also DC servo) is a small circuit that lowers the DC offset at the output (musical signals are AC, and too highDC can destroy a speaker)
Dual Mono is of course also stereo (or can be used that way), but (if you do it hardcore) using totally seperated amplifier for each channel (not even sharing the power supply).
Because you can buy single diodes with specifications (recovery time probably being the most interesting one for audio purposes) that have no match in a bridge rectifier. But then there are people that say that sometimes this is really over the top, and one should simply stick to bridge rectifiers...
RMS is acronym for "root mean squared", and describes a way of measuring the output power of an amp (or the power a speaker can handle, ...), look at the rather sarcastic, but good explanations under http://sound.westhost.com/power.htm.
Hope this helps,
Arndt
Matttcattt said:
See: <a href="http://www.sakurasystems.com">http://www.sakyrasystems.com</a>
Gaincard is the name of a commercial product (see above). Gainclone is the name given to the various DIY versions of the Gaincard.
what is a servo? (im sure your not talking about the ones in radio controled models
Generally servo can mean most any sort of feedback control system. In audio, it often refers to what's called a "DC servo" which is to give one simple example an opamp in the feedback loop of another opamp and is designed to prevent any DC offset voltage on the one opamp's output being fed back to its input.
A stereo amplifier has both amplifying channels built into a single chassis with both channels being powered by a single power supply. Dual mono refers to either two completely separate chassis each with their own power supply, or it can more loosely be a single chassis amplifier where each channel is powered by its own power supply.
Because some folks prefer to use types of diodes that generally can't be found in a single bridge package. Such as high speed Schottky or soft recovery HexFRED type diodes.
Root Mean Square.
It's used to describe the magnitude of AC signals and for a sinewave, is equivalent to 0.707 times the peak voltage or current.
It denotes the equivalent amount of heating you would get in a resistor fed with a DC voltage or current of the same value as the RMS voltage or current.
For example, a sinewave with a peak value of 10 volts would have an RMS value of 7.07 volts. And if that sinewave were being fed into a fixed resistance, the resistor would produce as much heat as if you had fed it a DC voltage of 7.07 volts.
This help?
se
Oops...
Sorry, botched the link. That should be:
<a href="http://www.sakurasystems.com/">http://www.sakurasystems.com</a>
se
Sorry, botched the link. That should be:
<a href="http://www.sakurasystems.com/">http://www.sakurasystems.com</a>
se
JBL said:Hmmm peter why that.
This is against the main flow in this forum who kind of like Farads and farads of capacitance.
------------------------------------------------
Put 47000 u in the car battery supply and you will be amazed by the improvement.
For other usage the quality of the cap is also very important but for class A you neeed lots to reduce 50Hz and harmonics. For preamp supplies with good regulation, not so much is needed as this affects the 'speed' of regulation.
I personally don't think that Peter is running into LF clipping just because he is only using 2000uF per rail.
To get LF clipping he must drive it hard, which has nothing to do PSU capacitance.
Just keep in mind that 4000uF and 6 Ohms give a cutoff frequency of approx 6 Hz. Now if you think about hese caps being (re)charged 100 times a second .......
Regards
Charles
To get LF clipping he must drive it hard, which has nothing to do PSU capacitance.
Just keep in mind that 4000uF and 6 Ohms give a cutoff frequency of approx 6 Hz. Now if you think about hese caps being (re)charged 100 times a second .......
Regards
Charles
Matttcattt said:
It really boils down to personal preference. Suffice to say that a ready-made bridge is a bit less likely to be wired up wrong.
Depends what you mean by a "simple switch." If you mean something like a simple toggle switch, they typically break one contact before it makes the other contact and that can sometimes result in a bit of popping when you switch inputs (due to the inductance of the interconnect cable). If you use a rotary type switch, use one with make-before-break type contacts.
se
Steve Eddy said:
It really boils down to personal preference. Suffice to say that a ready-made bridge is a bit less likely to be wired up wrong.
Depends what you mean by a "simple switch." If you mean something like a simple toggle switch, they typically break one contact before it makes the other contact and that can sometimes result in a bit of popping when you switch inputs (due to the inductance of the interconnect cable). If you use a rotary type switch, use one with make-before-break type contacts.
se
Depending on how things are wired wouldn't a MBB switch short the outputs of the sources to eachother? Might be worth thinking about.
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