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Old 28th February 2010, 03:36 AM   #511
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Default Gigaworks kit

Does anyone have a copy of the Bill of Materials and/or Schematic for the Gigaworks board? I received the kit a few days ago, but with no documentation. I've tried contacting the seller with no responses, though I'm sure there may be a language barrier, so I can understand.

The silkscreening on the boards are driving me crazy. They will refer to the value of the part in some locations, and then other locations refer to the part's reference name, like q4, without a clue which type of transistor actually goes there.

Attached is a rough BOM I've put together from the contents of the kit.
Attached Files
File Type: txt BOM.txt (552 Bytes, 213 views)
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Old 28th February 2010, 06:58 AM   #512
juluska is offline juluska  Ukraine
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Smile gigawork documents

Quote:
Originally Posted by salesmonster View Post
Does anyone have a copy of the Bill of Materials and/or Schematic for the Gigaworks board? I received the kit a few days ago, but with no documentation. I've tried contacting the seller with no responses, though I'm sure there may be a language barrier, so I can understand.

The silkscreening on the boards are driving me crazy. They will refer to the value of the part in some locations, and then other locations refer to the part's reference name, like q4, without a clue which type of transistor actually goes there.

Attached is a rough BOM I've put together from the contents of the kit.
I have post in my blog the documents and schematic gigawork sent to me, in HD:

ignatius little projects: Diy Naim Nap-140 amplifier
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Old 28th February 2010, 07:47 AM   #513
2Bak is offline 2Bak  Denmark
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Default Bill of materials

Salesmonster,
the components in your bom file match the parts I received in my kit, (B11551B pcb from hifidiy.net). Also the guy sent me the same schematic as posted by juluska on his blog.
Like you I also received 100uf/16v instead of 47uf/50v.
The 39p and 1K8 are not shown in the schematic, I wonder if they are optional.
Here is the bill of materials.

Click the image to open in full size.

Jan
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Old 28th February 2010, 07:17 PM   #514
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juluska and 2Bak,

Thanks for the help...I can now get busy building. Also, have you had any issues with the orientation of Q5 as mentioned in posts #353/354? Should I follow the silk screen?

Thanks again!
SM
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Old 28th February 2010, 08:25 PM   #515
juluska is offline juluska  Ukraine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salesmonster View Post
juluska and 2Bak,

Thanks for the help...I can now get busy building. Also, have you had any issues with the orientation of Q5 as mentioned in posts #353/354? Should I follow the silk screen?

Thanks again!
SM
the orientation is correct in the pcb. I didn't have any problem.
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Old 26th March 2010, 08:33 PM   #516
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Default Whats fried

Hi Everybody,

i am a newbee and have decided for the NAP 140 as my first project. To stay as simple as possible i purchased a complete kit wit PSU similar to the often in this forum seen hifidiy.net kit. UK POWER AMP KITS W POWER SUPPLY REFER NAP140 NAP-140 - eBay (item 160365344031 end time Apr-24-10 11:03:20 PDT)
I put everything together, carefully i thought, mesured the Psu, connected to the ampboards and pu power on it. During the nextseconds i heard a little sizzle and felt the heatsink become warm and the MPC71 - Metal Plate Cement Resistors turned very hot and slight smoke emited from them. I checked my work and found out that i interchanged Q1/TIP42C with Q2/TIP41C. I removed them and soldered them back in the corret place. I powered the syste up again and verything stayed cool and nice and was able to adjust the Vr to 6mv. I added input signal and mesured about 2V of output and thought "fine"! Connected one speaker and except some short rustle no noise but the -V control LED of the power supply dimed. Disconnecting the speaker the LED come up again.

So, i may have fried something.

I may have a aditional issue, PSU cabeling .....

Is there somebody out there who has a idea which components are likely to be fried (should be replaced) and which are less likely to be damaged and how to go on.

Here some pigs and dogs
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0ByR...ZDk3NGVj&hl=en

Sincerely Dispaired

Haggyhug
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Old 26th March 2010, 11:17 PM   #517
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The output transistors need to be isolated from the main heatsink.
The first time probably you burned the output transistors and the TIP41/42 transistors....do you know how to test the transistors?
Also you really need some fuses after the PSU capacitors...probably your supply is working with short circuit....thats why the LSD is dimming.
My advice is to find someone who knows what to do...and fix your amplifier.
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Old 27th March 2010, 03:00 AM   #518
repeet is offline repeet  Australia
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I notice C4 and C5 are also reversed. The English translated instructions are wrong comparing to the original Chinese ones as seen in post 513.
The .22ohm resistors will blow easily so would be worth checking as well. (I know from experience). Replacements for the output transistors can be MJL3281A which are better and actually cheaper , (as butch_vlad just said, make sure you use the insulating pads). Its also worth replacing Q5 with a TIP41C and mounting it directly to the output transistor with leads as it will provide better thermal protection.
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Old 27th March 2010, 01:57 PM   #519
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Thanks butch_vlad and repeet,
you cant see that on the pictures but the outputs are insulated with a transparent film pad that came with them. The C4 C5 position is incorrect in the assambly instruction compared to the circuit sheme and all the pictures i found on t he net, will reverse those.
If i have a shortcircuit and i assume its not a soldering issue because its identical on both boards, one of the circuit parts is producing the shortcircuit. Which fried circuitpart is likely to produce a shortcut? So, will have to desolder all transistors, diodes and the 0,22Ohm resitors, mesure them and order new improved parts. This howto may help me.Electronics Tips: Measurements: Testing Diodes and Transistors

Thanks so far and a nice weekend

haggyhug
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Old 28th March 2010, 03:19 AM   #520
Ruwe is offline Ruwe  Europe
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Hi haggyhug,

IMO, both TIP41 and 42 are gone. You can't put them at 40V in reverse and then expect to work.
The smoke from the output emitter resistors, means that the output transistors were turned on very, very hard, but hopefully survived (lack of smoke later), but I wouldn't bet for it. One of them, on the negative line is suspicious. I guess this is the one that shorts your negative power supply rail. If that's the case, make sure that you still have good speakers.
It's not reliable to measure power transistors or even the drivers with multimeter diode check. I've had many occasions when they measure correct, but fail and go short, if you try to use them with higher currents as supposed. May be it's safer to replace the power transistors too.
Regards
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