I recall that its only about 100 mA per device, certainly
not a lot more.
This is one place where a higher bias will really make a
difference, IMHO. I say crank that bias up to until the
heat sinks run at 50 deg C, which I would bet is about
300 mA per device.
Better yet, put a fan on them and take them up to 500 mA.
not a lot more.
This is one place where a higher bias will really make a
difference, IMHO. I say crank that bias up to until the
heat sinks run at 50 deg C, which I would bet is about
300 mA per device.
Better yet, put a fan on them and take them up to 500 mA.
Ill start at 125-150 and fine tune to a higher bias by smell. On the other hand I should get it back to my sister in one piece if possible. I see there are thermo switches, they must be there for experimentation.
I put in the ESL speaker protection circuit so now it doesnt throw my subwoofer cone out of the box at startup. It was passing a large 10v + DC at powerup.
Thanks for the input.
Fritz
I put in the ESL speaker protection circuit so now it doesnt throw my subwoofer cone out of the box at startup. It was passing a large 10v + DC at powerup.
Thanks for the input.
Fritz
The schematics in the manuals say 100mA per device. That's right on with the databook recommendation to run at the zero temperature coefficient operating point for the devices ...
However, my amps that use these devices (or similar lateral technology parts) benefitted sonically from having more. I think right now I'm running about 400mA per MOSFET.
Be concerned about the heatsinking if you are doing this in a Hafler with +/- 65V rails! Or as Nelson says get a fan.
mlloyd1
However, my amps that use these devices (or similar lateral technology parts) benefitted sonically from having more. I think right now I'm running about 400mA per MOSFET.
Be concerned about the heatsinking if you are doing this in a Hafler with +/- 65V rails! Or as Nelson says get a fan.
mlloyd1
Fritz said:
Depends on how precise you want to be. Technically speaking, you should also add the bias current of the current/sink for the diff stage and the driver stage. I don't have the schematic in front of me at the moment but i thinking adding about 20mA is reasonable. So, I'd look to measure about 220mA through the fuse.
Make sense?
mlloyd1
Make sense?
mlloyd1
Fritz said:
Mlloyd, Jam,
That makes sense, its all making more sense now that I found the burned fuse in my meter and actually see the current on that fuse. I set it at 280 through the fuse last night and the heat sinks are mildly warm at idle and when playing voice from a movie. I should probably put a more challenging signal through before I turn it up a lot. This weekend I can put it on some decent speakers and see if I can discearn the difference between 280 and say 350. Maybe some less than 20 year old caps after that!
Thanks very much,
Fritz
That makes sense, its all making more sense now that I found the burned fuse in my meter and actually see the current on that fuse. I set it at 280 through the fuse last night and the heat sinks are mildly warm at idle and when playing voice from a movie. I should probably put a more challenging signal through before I turn it up a lot. This weekend I can put it on some decent speakers and see if I can discearn the difference between 280 and say 350. Maybe some less than 20 year old caps after that!
Thanks very much,
Fritz
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