Good morning everyone,
Be kind Im a newbie here.
First impression is that the forum is very knowledgeable!
I will have to come back and browse more, specially the tube amp section
But the problem at hand is as follow:
I am using a Yamaha M50 on the home theater I love this Amp.
bought it new a few years ago...
Never been abused.
Yet yesterday it went tilt.
Just was paying a movie and it went click and died, not hot or anything...
So this morning I removed it from the rack and was expecting a fuse on the back panel or something, but I could find nothing.
The service manual is long gone.
1- question, is there a fuse on this amp? Where would it be, what else can I look for???
2- Anyone knows a good repair shop for such a unit in the sought / west end of Toronto Ontario???
:-(
I love this Amp any help will be appreciated.
thx.
Alain
Be kind Im a newbie here.
First impression is that the forum is very knowledgeable!
I will have to come back and browse more, specially the tube amp section
But the problem at hand is as follow:
I am using a Yamaha M50 on the home theater I love this Amp.
bought it new a few years ago...
Never been abused.
Yet yesterday it went tilt.
Just was paying a movie and it went click and died, not hot or anything...
So this morning I removed it from the rack and was expecting a fuse on the back panel or something, but I could find nothing.
The service manual is long gone.
1- question, is there a fuse on this amp? Where would it be, what else can I look for???
2- Anyone knows a good repair shop for such a unit in the sought / west end of Toronto Ontario???
:-(
I love this Amp any help will be appreciated.
thx.
Alain
Hey Alain,
It figures, I have the M40&M60 service manuals no M50. There is certainly gonna be a fuse between the power switch and the transformer. Its probably gonna be something like a 10amp (the actual rating will be stamped on one end and probably labeled on the PCB where its located also (which probably won't be to far away from the Transformer or near the back of the unit where the power cord comes in). You will have to pop the hood to access it. Just keep in mind that fuses blow for a reason. You risk causing more damage by just replacing the fuse. If it IS blown check whether it was a "light" blow or violent (glass black inside). If it was light then you could try replacing it. Too bad I'm about an hour outside of Toronto or I'd love to help ya out. Since you asked about a shop I would suggest you just bring it to one. Hopefully someone can recommend a reputable shop in your area.
It figures, I have the M40&M60 service manuals no M50. There is certainly gonna be a fuse between the power switch and the transformer. Its probably gonna be something like a 10amp (the actual rating will be stamped on one end and probably labeled on the PCB where its located also (which probably won't be to far away from the Transformer or near the back of the unit where the power cord comes in). You will have to pop the hood to access it. Just keep in mind that fuses blow for a reason. You risk causing more damage by just replacing the fuse. If it IS blown check whether it was a "light" blow or violent (glass black inside). If it was light then you could try replacing it. Too bad I'm about an hour outside of Toronto or I'd love to help ya out. Since you asked about a shop I would suggest you just bring it to one. Hopefully someone can recommend a reputable shop in your area.
Well poor ventilation especially if you were driving it hard could pose a problem. Most reputable shops would be able to help you but might be best with Yamaha authorized service centers. ==>Ontario (search for closest for your area)http://www.yamaha.ca/av/CustomerService/getting_service2.jsp#ON.
They would have access to service info and any bulletins. If you insist on locating the fuse and replacing, do a favour and report the condition of the fuse before replacing or better yet post some pics.
They would have access to service info and any bulletins. If you insist on locating the fuse and replacing, do a favour and report the condition of the fuse before replacing or better yet post some pics.
Hi Alain,
I'm in Georgetown, so much closer to you. I used to service Yamaha under warranty. Nice amp. They were reliable.
Let me know if I can help you out. Most of the newer service depots will not understand that amp. You can also give Rick at Ontario Audio a call. He's in Brampton.
-Chris
I'm in Georgetown, so much closer to you. I used to service Yamaha under warranty. Nice amp. They were reliable.
Let me know if I can help you out. Most of the newer service depots will not understand that amp. You can also give Rick at Ontario Audio a call. He's in Brampton.
-Chris
Yamaha M-50 going up in smoke
Hi - I am a newbie, so not sure if this thread is still being looked at. I just bought a Yamaha M-50 amp last week, plugged it in, and was running it for less than an hour when there was a loud pop, and white smoke started spewing out. However, the music continued playing! But I shut off everything at once in case something else starts to go.
Popped the cover, and found this rectangular .22 uf capacitor that was cracked and burnt on the vertical PCB right by the power transformer. I think that is part of the power supply board. I don't have the service manual, and I am afraid to plug it in, so any help is appreciated. I have an M-80 and just love the series.
Thanks.
Patrick
Hi - I am a newbie, so not sure if this thread is still being looked at. I just bought a Yamaha M-50 amp last week, plugged it in, and was running it for less than an hour when there was a loud pop, and white smoke started spewing out. However, the music continued playing! But I shut off everything at once in case something else starts to go.
Popped the cover, and found this rectangular .22 uf capacitor that was cracked and burnt on the vertical PCB right by the power transformer. I think that is part of the power supply board. I don't have the service manual, and I am afraid to plug it in, so any help is appreciated. I have an M-80 and just love the series.
Thanks.
Patrick
Over voltage
Good day everyone.
First thank you all for the replies.
A quick update on the M50.
I found someone who used to have an audio shop in the west end of Toronto. (near Kipling subway of you are from the area).
He confirmed that the circuit was over loaded and was able to fix the unit.
I also learned that Ontario Hydro apparently has power spikes that are quite severe compared to other power Co. I can only compare to Hydro Quebec and BC Hydro. My Computers are plugged to a UPS and I never had issues but this Amp was connected to a small power bar only.
Again Thank you all,
I keep wathching these treads as you never stop to learn stuff.
Great site!
Alain
Good day everyone.
First thank you all for the replies.
A quick update on the M50.
I found someone who used to have an audio shop in the west end of Toronto. (near Kipling subway of you are from the area).
He confirmed that the circuit was over loaded and was able to fix the unit.
I also learned that Ontario Hydro apparently has power spikes that are quite severe compared to other power Co. I can only compare to Hydro Quebec and BC Hydro. My Computers are plugged to a UPS and I never had issues but this Amp was connected to a small power bar only.
Again Thank you all,
I keep wathching these treads as you never stop to learn stuff.
Great site!
Alain
M-50 cap going up in smoke
Hi Mooly - thanks for your response...the M-50 does have a voltage selector in the back, but it's set to 110/120 for the states here. The only thing I can think of is that the previous owner said he had it in storage for a couple of years, so not sure if the environment was ideal.
As I described, it was working fine for about half an hour, and it was plugged into a Belkin surge protector strip. Now, since the amp was continuing to run after the smoke, can I try it again w/ the burnt cap? Do you think some other component may have caused the surge? And where would I even find a replacement cap - and will it need to be in that shape? Can it just be a modern cylinderical shape as long as the value is close? a 250V cap. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Mooly - thanks for your response...the M-50 does have a voltage selector in the back, but it's set to 110/120 for the states here. The only thing I can think of is that the previous owner said he had it in storage for a couple of years, so not sure if the environment was ideal.
As I described, it was working fine for about half an hour, and it was plugged into a Belkin surge protector strip. Now, since the amp was continuing to run after the smoke, can I try it again w/ the burnt cap? Do you think some other component may have caused the surge? And where would I even find a replacement cap - and will it need to be in that shape? Can it just be a modern cylinderical shape as long as the value is close? a 250V cap. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
To the Yamaha owners!
As i saw from you big problems with Yamaha, it is such a shame.
Use a Voltage Varistor one or three in parallel to connected ton the main leads, this will protect from high voltages sparks before and after trafo!.
But that is maybe expensive for the factory's today >quality today =0 VS. quantity, which was not case before 90's.
So in these quantity days seems better to make some DIY amplifier.
As i saw from you big problems with Yamaha, it is such a shame.
Use a Voltage Varistor one or three in parallel to connected ton the main leads, this will protect from high voltages sparks before and after trafo!.
But that is maybe expensive for the factory's today >quality today =0 VS. quantity, which was not case before 90's.
So in these quantity days seems better to make some DIY amplifier.
that cap is most likely a noise filter cap, replace it with a 250V mylar or other "poly" type. from your description, though i'm thinking there's an aluminum electrolytic (shaped like small beer cans) that blew out. those generally make a loud pop and lots of white smoke, and usually smell like fish (in far east formulation) or like some type of chemical (generally american formulation). poly caps when they are across an AC line might make a small pop, but it's usually followed by a raspy buzzing sound, and smell like burning plastic with bluish (and sometimes blackish)smoke.
if you suspect an electrolytic, look for a wet condensation at the base of them on circuit boards, or bulged aluminum tops on them, or the top split apart. sometimes they "disappear" leaving twisted shards of aluminum and bits of oily paper behind
if you suspect an electrolytic, look for a wet condensation at the base of them on circuit boards, or bulged aluminum tops on them, or the top split apart. sometimes they "disappear" leaving twisted shards of aluminum and bits of oily paper behind
Can you post a picture -- that may help, both of the cap and a close up of the location in the amp. Don't run it with the cap still in place, better to remove it altogether for now. If it's just a filter cap it will all still work OK.
Can you see if you can tell whether it's on the primary side of the transformer or on the secondaries.
Can you see if you can tell whether it's on the primary side of the transformer or on the secondaries.
Thanks Unclejed...so, this cap was rectanglar shaped mounted on the power supply PCB. I don't remember what the smell was like, only that it wasn't pleasant. Is a noise filter cap typically used in the power supply portion? I'll look for a mylar replacement then, but I don't even remember seeing rectangular shaped capacitors online. Appreciate your input.
Patrick
Patrick
Hello Patrick,
How to tell ? You do sound very unsure about all this and from a safety point, please ask someone if you are in any doubt
So how to tell -- well just by looking O.K. then more detail. Primary side will have the cap connected in some way across the incoming mains supply. Try and trace where it goes -- both ends. Can you read on a meter set to low ohms any continuity between either end of the cap and the live/neutral ( remember the front switch must be on -- with it unplugged of course)
Secondary side means it's connected across the low voltage windings, so again see where it goes and measure.
How to tell ? You do sound very unsure about all this and from a safety point, please ask someone if you are in any doubt
So how to tell -- well just by looking
O.K. then more detail. Primary side will have the cap connected in some way across the incoming mains supply. Try and trace where it goes -- both ends. Can you read on a meter set to low ohms any continuity between either end of the cap and the live/neutral ( remember the front switch must be on -- with it unplugged of course)Secondary side means it's connected across the low voltage windings, so again see where it goes and measure.
Hi!
About the capacitor , why is so important where exactly is connected that capacitor of 0.22 microf.?
Expecially for non experienced person!
Mister, if you know to de soldering and soldering than just buy or find some new or used capacitor and be careful with the voltage rating.
If the original is 250 AC than find capaitor same value and voltage rate same as original or even better higher voltage for example 400v or 630 volts, and don't care about the shape of the capacitor, if the new capacitor fits in place there everything is done.
But for un experienced person : Before do anything turn off power and disconnect the main cable from the wall socket!!!
About the capacitor , why is so important where exactly is connected that capacitor of 0.22 microf.?
Expecially for non experienced person!
Mister, if you know to de soldering and soldering than just buy or find some new or used capacitor and be careful with the voltage rating.
If the original is 250 AC than find capaitor same value and voltage rate same as original or even better higher voltage for example 400v or 630 volts, and don't care about the shape of the capacitor, if the new capacitor fits in place there everything is done.
But for un experienced person : Before do anything turn off power and disconnect the main cable from the wall socket!!!
the cap is used for filtering out high frequency noise from things like vacuum cleaners and power tools. it is non-polarized, even though it may have a stripe on it indicating which end has foil on the outside (which is only important in radio circuits). it needs to be rated at twice the line voltage (in the US the cap is usually 250V). the value is not critical, but try to stay within +/- 50% of what the original one was.
if the cap is not in circuit, you probably won't notice it's not there unless you use an electric drill while the amp is on.
if the cap is not in circuit, you probably won't notice it's not there unless you use an electric drill while the amp is on.
Always is good to use higher rated voltage caps especially in case if that voltage rate is for DCvoltage and the cap(non polarized of course) is used in AC voltages because we know that for example here in EU standard mline voltage is now 230 volts AC than peak to peak voltage will be approx. 230*1.41=322 Volts.
Even when the voltage rate of the cap. is rated in Ac 250V AC it is always recommended to use higher voltage becauise of some short voltage peaks or sparks which can immediately destroy the capacitor.
So about function of this cap if is on the primary side of the transformer is for that kind of HF filtering or protection from some tools which made sparking like motors ...etc.
If the cap is in the secondary side function maybe for the same HF filtering or perhaps ringing of the bridge rectifier or to improve the audio quality like bypassing a big Elco. caps. in the PSU.
Any how the amp will be still work and be alive without this cap.
Here can be view some of this capacitors:
http://apparatus-instrument.com/buy-capacitor_x1%2Fy1/
Even when the voltage rate of the cap. is rated in Ac 250V AC it is always recommended to use higher voltage becauise of some short voltage peaks or sparks which can immediately destroy the capacitor.
So about function of this cap if is on the primary side of the transformer is for that kind of HF filtering or protection from some tools which made sparking like motors ...etc.
If the cap is in the secondary side function maybe for the same HF filtering or perhaps ringing of the bridge rectifier or to improve the audio quality like bypassing a big Elco. caps. in the PSU.
Any how the amp will be still work and be alive without this cap.
Here can be view some of this capacitors:
http://apparatus-instrument.com/buy-capacitor_x1%2Fy1/
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