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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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I recently got a pretty old Hafler P500 power amp on ebay -which should be almost identically with the more know DH-500 model. I want bring it into action for my home recording studio monitoring.
As the seller confided, the amp made a three days test run (but without a full output power rehearsal) without any flaws. I opened the housing but have the amp not powered up yet. The mosfets seems to be the original ones (3x 2SK176, 3x SJ76 with Hafler part numbers, Grade 2). There is a dent on one of them (right array, the one in the middle -as shown on the pictures). I assume its not blown but rather physically hit/squished by something. The dent goes to the inside of the housing. -It would be nice if anyone has an opinion here. I would like to know now if my amp is technically healthy and well adjusted at all. So, it would be great if could get your helpful hints and answers to my questionnaire: - Step by step. What to do first? - What to know/What to test? (what are the important parameters output power, transistor bias, equal channel loudness, DC on speaker outputs ??) - How/Which way of test proceeding? - Which specific value-ranges are healthy, which are not? - How to do the adjustment, if necessary (I have noticed the trim-pots on the boards) - mandatory maintenance (changing electrolytic capacitors et cetera) ”Qualifications”: I am a musician in the first place but semi-experienced in building tube gear (made some guit-(pre)amps, a tube eq, psu’s for vintage modules). Apart from screwdrivers and black coffee I have a two channels oscilloscope, audio generator and a VTVM on my bench. Big thanks in advance for any advice Toby ![]() ![]()
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Yes, and I have the dh-500 schematic.
What I have picked up here to date: Bias current should be 350 - 400ma (measured through the fuses) The 500er boards should be equal to the pcb’s from the dh-220 with trim-pots for: P1 offset adjustment P2 bias adjustment I guess the two trim-pots on the front site board allow fine tune the stepped volume-pots |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
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Turn it on, if the relay clicks in, listen to it.
The dent is trivial, do nothing. Adjust the off-set control to 0 after it has been on at least half an hour. Same with the bias, about 350mA per channel. I would add a 47µF cap across each of the main filter caps.
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Candidates for the Darwin Award should not read this author. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Thank you
Would you explain how to measure the DC offset? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Make up a shorting plug that connects the input to ground. Plug it into one channel, and with your DVM connected to the speaker outputs and set on DC, check the voltage. Adjust so that is as low as possible, but anywhere under 30mV or so will be fine. Plug in a cheap speaker and a source signal, and run for half an hour or so at normal listening level to get the amp warmed up. Check voltage again, and adjust as required.
Repeat for other channel, put the lid back on, and enjoy.
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Florida
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These things are capable of putting out some amazing power. I'd suggest re-seating the the the outputs in their sockets. However, this always seemed to be a short term solution. I finally gave up and SOLDERED the pins of the outputs directly to the sockets.
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Mother always said there'd be days like this, so I'm just Hanginon! |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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