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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Hello everyone, here is my biamp buffer.
It takes a differential or singled ended (SE) input and gives you- 1. unbuffered differential or SE output 2. buffered differential and SE output 3. variable level controlled buffered differential and SE output. Just uses a DRV134 to convert the SE to balanced (if you select SE via the switch) There are then 3 dual opamps configured as voltage followers. Any dual opamps can just be snapped in there, though of course they must be unity gain stable. I'm using an LM4632 on the input and an OPA2134 on the outputs. Also powered via CRC PS feeding Liner Technologies LT1962/1964 ultra low noise surface mount regulators. These things are very very small. Web Page Level control is via a cermet trimpot, but you have the option of flipping a switch and inserting a high quality fixed R of any value you want.
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My DIY audio projects- PartTimeProjects.com. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi lgreen,
Your DRV134 needs to be driven with a low impedance source (per the data sheet). I haven't been able to get my mittens on any yet to confirm this. A previous design error on my part did confirm high noise levels with the previous part. I always drive these with a dedicated op amp or other type of buffer. -Chris
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"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi,
is the switch S2/S4 shown correctly in the schematic? It appears to be substituting a series resistor for the upper leg pot resistance, leaving the full pot value in circuit. This will not give the same attenuation before and after you flip the switch.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Quite flexible indeed.
Looking at the circuit, the two lower opamps appear just to buffer the input opamps. Their output is identical to the output of the input opamps. That seems unnecessary? Jan Didden
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Personally, having done some very strange things with opamps, I'd put a 20-100 ohm resistor inline with each of the outputs. It helps stability with difficult loads/cables, and even though the chips do have short circuit protection, it limits the current in such a situation.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Good point Al. Here speaks the voice of experiemce!
Jan Didden
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/Another new issue: Linear Audio Volume 3! |
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#7 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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My DIY audio projects- PartTimeProjects.com. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Quote:
So after flipping the switch when you look at the input to ground the full pot value stays in the circuit intentionally, it is 50K. However you no longer use the upper leg pot resistance as a series resistor in-line with the audio signal. Instead, the in-line resistance is the same resistance via a better resistor. So now I see that you are right, the resistance to ground before flipping the switch will be different after. Ooooposie! my bad. In the limited use I have given this to now it has not been a big deal but I'll look at that too. I suspect that these op amps draw so little current that it will not really matter, but then again I'm not the expert-- you guys are! Thanks for your comment and for taking the time to look at the schematic. Note- if you look at the boards you see that I also brought out a ground to solder stuff to. The point of this is to allow connection of RC in-line and to ground separatly in case you want to get fancy and put in a simple filter...say to get band limited audio to your woofer/tweeter amp.
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: San Diego, USA
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Quote:
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