Nakamichi PA5 dead

gto127 · 30th July 2007, 08:22 PM

I have a Nakamichi (stasis) PA5 that has went bad. I was hearing this humming noise after the unit would heat up several minutes. I usually wouldn't play it long after that but I forgot one day and came back and the amp was dead. I found a bad thermal fuse on the limiter board but it keeps going after replacement. I don't have the exact replacement but sub a 2 amp pico. It blows immediatly. Does anyone have any ideas or a schematic they could email me? I sure hope its not the transformer-looks like one of a kind!

jaycee · 30th July 2007, 11:12 PM

I have a feeling that Mr Nelson Pass designed this amplifier. Maybe he will be able to help you.

gto127 · 31st July 2007, 12:39 AM

How would I get in touch with him?

anatech · 31st July 2007, 01:55 AM

Hi gto127,
I'll try to give you a hand. I used to do warranty service on Nakamichi. Nice amp. We only ever had one blow, due to a fat copper staple for boxes that fell in (PA-7).

These amps also have an inrush current limiter circuit (resistor shorted by a relay). Make sure you don't blow it open. You should be using a variac for servicing. Short out the resistor when you power it up this way.

Nelson would understand how these amps work, but he most likely does not have an exact schematic, but you never know! He just might.

-Chris

Leolabs · 31st July 2007, 02:01 AM

Hi anatech!Mail it to me too.Thanks!

gto127 · 12th August 2007, 09:25 PM

Thanks for the schematic anatech-I used the variac and brought it up to about 30 volts input(AC) and it started buzzing like it did when it first went out. Ifound this to be caused by cold solder on a ground wire on one of the main caps. The buzzing at low volts is gone now but it still blows the thermal fuse when powered at full volts. Thought I'd try replacing the spark killer next as well as try to find a source for the original thermal fuse. Does anyone know where I can find one of these special fuses. I can't find the original to look at the value and I feel sure it would be different than the pa7.

anatech · 12th August 2007, 09:41 PM

Hi gto127,
Do you mean the current limiting resistor? The only thermal fuse I know of is inside the transformer. It would be open then.

Should be around 2 ohms I think.

-Chris

gto127 · 13th August 2007, 02:33 AM

No, its labled TF on the limiter board-it's in series with a large 2.2 ohm resistor. I noticed some things on this(limiter) board were different than the PA-7 schematic. I remember this component being yellow and it was heatshrinked to the large ceramic resistor.

anatech · 13th August 2007, 03:36 AM

Hi gto127,
Sorry, you are quite correct. I forgot about those completely.

Look up at MCM or other jobbers. Coffee makers use similar things.

-Chris

gto127 · 14th August 2007, 10:42 PM

haven't had any luck finding this. I think it said 1 amp on the body of unit but I looked it up(months ago) and it had much higher momentary current. I put the fluke across the thermal fuse circuit and its drawing 5-6 amps momentarily then going down to .2-.3 amps after the relays pull. Is this too much inrush current ? If not do you know any device that would meet these specs?

30th July 2007, 08:22 PM	#1
gto127 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	Nakamichi PA5 dead I have a Nakamichi (stasis) PA5 that has went bad. I was hearing this humming noise after the unit would heat up several minutes. I usually wouldn't play it long after that but I forgot one day and came back and the amp was dead. I found a bad thermal fuse on the limiter board but it keeps going after replacement. I don't have the exact replacement but sub a 2 amp pico. It blows immediatly. Does anyone have any ideas or a schematic they could email me? I sure hope its not the transformer-looks like one of a kind!

31st July 2007, 01:55 AM	#4
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Hi gto127, I'll try to give you a hand. I used to do warranty service on Nakamichi. Nice amp. We only ever had one blow, due to a fat copper staple for boxes that fell in (PA-7). These amps also have an inrush current limiter circuit (resistor shorted by a relay). Make sure you don't blow it open. You should be using a variac for servicing. Short out the resistor when you power it up this way. Nelson would understand how these amps work, but he most likely does not have an exact schematic, but you never know! He just might. -Chris __________________ "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife

12th August 2007, 09:41 PM	#7
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Hi gto127, Do you mean the current limiting resistor? The only thermal fuse I know of is inside the transformer. It would be open then. Should be around 2 ohms I think. -Chris __________________ "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife

13th August 2007, 03:36 AM	#9
anatech diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Georgetown, On	Hi gto127, Sorry, you are quite correct. I forgot about those completely. Look up at MCM or other jobbers. Coffee makers use similar things. -Chris __________________ "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife

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30th July 2007, 11:12 PM	#2
jaycee diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Norwich, UK	I have a feeling that Mr Nelson Pass designed this amplifier. Maybe he will be able to help you.

31st July 2007, 12:39 AM	#3
gto127 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	How would I get in touch with him?

31st July 2007, 02:01 AM	#5
Leolabs diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bukit Mertajam	Hi anatech!Mail it to me too.Thanks!

12th August 2007, 09:25 PM	#6
gto127 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	Thanks for the schematic anatech-I used the variac and brought it up to about 30 volts input(AC) and it started buzzing like it did when it first went out. Ifound this to be caused by cold solder on a ground wire on one of the main caps. The buzzing at low volts is gone now but it still blows the thermal fuse when powered at full volts. Thought I'd try replacing the spark killer next as well as try to find a source for the original thermal fuse. Does anyone know where I can find one of these special fuses. I can't find the original to look at the value and I feel sure it would be different than the pa7.

13th August 2007, 02:33 AM	#8
gto127 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	No, its labled TF on the limiter board-it's in series with a large 2.2 ohm resistor. I noticed some things on this(limiter) board were different than the PA-7 schematic. I remember this component being yellow and it was heatshrinked to the large ceramic resistor.

14th August 2007, 10:42 PM	#10
gto127 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2007	haven't had any luck finding this. I think it said 1 amp on the body of unit but I looked it up(months ago) and it had much higher momentary current. I put the fluke across the thermal fuse circuit and its drawing 5-6 amps momentarily then going down to .2-.3 amps after the relays pull. Is this too much inrush current ? If not do you know any device that would meet these specs?

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