|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Solid State Talk all about solid state amplification. |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Hi,
I just bought a Marantz 170 dc in Belgium, it works fine until like 40 min running then the relay starts to switch off and after a few seconds on again. Does anyone have an idea what is wrong with it, maybe a new relay? Thanks |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
|
This amp could need some new capacitors. First, check for DC on the output, before the relay. If all is fine, start replacing the caps on the relay board.
It might also suffer from bad solder joints and loose power transistors. /Hugo |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
|
Hi aantunes,
What you have there is an outstanding amplifier! This most certainly is a keeper (I've rebuilt a few). The sound quality will be very difficult to top if you handle this rebuild properly. The first step would be to take it apart, remove the amplifier assemblies (they unplug) and give the chassis a good cleaning. Clean off the amp assemblies at this point. Set up on your work bench and take the first one apart, take digital pictures showing where the transistors and wire go. Take some more of the board from each angle. Remove the power output transistors (you will have bought some heatsink grease and TO-3 mica insulators already). Now inspect the solder side of the PCB. If you see bad solder connections, remove the solder. Don't bother resoldering yet. You may as well replace all the electrolytics. Also, replace all the ceramic caps with mica, polypropylene or polystyrene capacitors. 160V minimum ratings on these small caps. Refresh the solder connections at this point (I would normally test all the transistors and match some of them now). Clean the board off and look for shorts. I tend to use a little electronic solder flux to resolder the board. Clean and regrease the output transistors, test them first if you can. Clean and dry the heatsinks (you can do this earlier), remount the power transistors using new insulators and grease. When you tighten the mounting screws, try not to over tighten them. If you can, replace the old speaker relay now, also check that the main filter caps do not have any punctures. You could replace then as well, not a bad idea and this amp is well worth it. Also, replace the electrolytic caps on the relay board. Install your rebuilt channel (just the one) and slowly power it up using a variac or lamps in series with your AC power. You could use and external DC supply if you have one. Check to make sure it's working properly. If it isn't, you still have an original to check it against - you should have already done that actually. Once you have your redone channel working, it's safe to do the other channel. Same thing as before. Power up slowly again. Now, assuming it's working, check your meter lamps. Make sure they are the 200mA 8V type. Change them if they aren't. Now you are ready to listen to it. You are going to love this thing! -Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Thank you very much to both of you guys.
It seems that I will have a few weekends to spend on this, but it will sing like a bird in the end. By the way do you advise me to replace also the big capcitator? All the best |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
|
Hi aantunes,
Only if you see the seals damaged. This can be done later once you have it running. If you really like it (and I'll bet you do), replace the main filter caps when you have the money. The amp you have sounds almost as good as it's big brother, the 300DC. That's what I normally use, and I love it. If I didn't have the 300DC, the 170DC is a natural. Take your time and do a good job. Take lots of pictures (memory) and ask if you get stuck. Keep us posted on your progress. -Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Need help indentify ceramic capacitatores:
50k01 50k047 100v.1 104j50 nis 104j50 nis g 50jkck maybe its a basic question but I'm just a beginner regarding electronics |
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
|
Location numbers for those?
Parts with a "j" are in pF, but I'm not sure about how you've listed them. -Chris
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
These are the writtings I find on the ceramic capacitators. Each line I wrote is one type of capacitator.
ex/ 50k01 those this mean 50000nF and 01 the tolerance? and isn't the j also the tolerance? |
|
|
|
|
#9 | |
|
diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
|
Quote:
__________________
"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
50k01-----c713
50k047-----c710 100v.1------c721 104j50 nis------in paralel with r730 104j50 nis g---in paralel with r731 50jkck---c706 thanks |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| marantz sa-1 | lt cdr data | Digital Source | 0 | 27th June 2006 12:37 PM |
| Marantz CD 94 sch | Zoran | Digital Source | 21 | 6th June 2006 09:34 PM |
| Right speakers for Marantz PM8000 + Marantz CD67-OSE? | betto80 | Multi-Way | 2 | 24th May 2005 03:21 PM |
| Link Between Marantz CD12 and Marantz CD99 | Mesh | Digital Source | 16 | 7th November 2003 06:08 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.09661 seconds (86.44% PHP - 13.56% MySQL) with 10 queries |