|9th January 2010, 04:17 PM||#1|
This thread was requested over in the multiway forum, so I figure it should go here.
I've used boxsim (Visaton's own software) to calculate speaker enclosures etc. It can double as something for simulating bass response only, or crossover curve calculators. It will even do several different box types, and show the baffle edge diffraction by different baffle widths. I have attached images on it's different simulations.
Anyway, how to use it.
(I'm guessing) most of us don't speak German, so I figure that, after messing around with said software, I should help you guys use it. If my translations are inaccurate, feel free to correct me.
I'll take you through the default box simulation, then show you how to make your own.
When it opens, you're faced with a graph with a lot of lines on it. There are some tick boxes at the top which enable you to change which lines you see. I usually switch off the one on the right, as I don't know what it's for. The tick box on the far left enables you to switch on or off the displaying of all the drivers' frequency input into the end frequency response.
The tabs along the top open up lots of neat functions. The next tab will show you how the phases of the speakers go with each other - fairly useful for flattening out frequency response charts.
The 3rd tab tells you how loud it can go at any given frequency, with the graph on the left. I don't know what the one on the right is for.
The 4th tab shows you the frequency response of the speaker at different off-axis positions. I don't know what each individual graph shows, so just nod appreciatively at them and all is well.
The 5th tab has a slider at the top left (slide it if you so wish) which shows you the polar plots of the speaker, according to frequence. The one marked horizontal shows looking down on the speaker, the vertical one is when you're looking side on.
I have no idea what the 6th tab is for, so use protocol #1 - nod appreciatively, and go to the next tab.
The next tab will show you the response of the individual drivers involved, one (red) line is with crossover, another (black) line is for the driver's possible frequency response, and the other (blue) line is to look pretty.
The last tab shows you exactly what your crossover is doing. Because of this, boxsim can be used simply to fiddle with components.
Now, we're going to model our own speakers in boxsim.
Go to the top left (translates roughly as File), and click the top option - translates as new project. When you've done this, you'll get 2 boxes. One tells you (in German) what I'm telling you here, but with less detail. The other (important) one asks you to tell it (in order)
How many amps you're going to use.
How many drivers you're going to use.
The frequencies at which you wish to model these drivers.
For easiness sake (on my part), I'm going to use my own speakers as the example. They use 3 drivers (called Chassis in German)and 1 verstarker (amp).
Enter this info, then press Ok. Close the help box that appears.
At the bottom, you'll have noticed there's a red bar. This means there's an error with your design, so the software can't calculate. Don't worry about it just yet.
At the top, left of center, there's a menu called chassis and einbau (meaning speakers and cabinet, methinks) click this, go to Chassis 1.
Click the chassis laden aus datei, and it will open the list of drivers you've downloaded from the visaton website. Scroll across a little until you find the driver you want. Double click on it (in this case, the FRS8M) and press Ok. On the second tab of this new box, you've got cabinet options. Select sealed box, and admire the work on the stuffing sliders - it even calculates grams per litre. Anyway, I used a 5 litre box for my speaker, stuffed, so we'll set the box volume to 5 litres, and leave the stuffing where it is. Press Ok at the bottom of the box when you've done this.
We'll repeat the above process for Chassis 2 and 3. These are both the W130S 8ohm, and they're in 17L each (not sure how to make them share a box). Each box is tuned to 42Hz, with no stuffing.
Under the Chassis and einbau menu, click the top option (gemeinsames somethingorother). This is the menu for how you box will be.
Now, I put one woofer at each side, and the FRS8M on the front. Hinten = back; Links = Left; Rechts = Right; Vorn = front.
On the left, enter the total (exterior) dimensions of your box. This is for baffle step purposes only, so it doesn't bother with the volume you give.
My speakers are 122cm (h) x 15cm (w) x 36cm (d)
The FRS8M is mounted 8.5 cm in from the left, and 108cm up.
The woofers are 98cm up, 18cm in from either end. Add these parameters, press Ok.
If you're presented with a blank graph, congratulations.
Now, we need to connect all the drivers to our amplifier.
Go to Verstaker 1 (menu at the top) and click the 2nd of the 2 options shown. You should get a big white box, with lots of rectangles and dots on it.
Right click on one of these rectangles, and select the bottom option (Verstarkerausgang), press Ok. This will give you an amplifier. If you left click on the wire, you get a line. Enjoy writing your name with said lines. Anyway. You're going to make a circuit. Set off with the amp. Take a line off the + side, and make a 2nd order high pass crossover with it. You will need to know
- Spule means inductor
- Kondensator means capacitor
- keine somethingorother means delete
- the 2nd to last one means speaker, and gives you a drop down to choose the speaker.
When you're making the crossover, make sure you have somewhere to connect the low pass for the woofers. The woofers are in series with a 6.6mH inductor. Remember to select one as Chassis 2 and one as Chassis 3. When you've sorted this, connect it to the amp, press Ok at the top left, and see what you get. Not bad, could be better, right? (you may need to click on the correct tab)
So, have a look at the phase tab, and see what's causing the dip around 350Hz.
Looks to me like the woofers and FR driver are out of phase for a while. Try reversing the phase (poulag negative in the circuit thing) You'll see it's much flatter in the midrange now, but there's a smaller dip around 150Hz. Don't panic about this just yet. There's a 5ohm resistor with the FRS8M aswell.
Further up the frequency response, you'll see a big peak at 10kHz. Use a notch filter to sort that out (you'll need your own values for this - I used 0.1mH, 10ohm, 2.2uF - not optimal, but sounds ok.)
There you have it. I think I've given you enough there to try your own. I think you can add your own drivers aswell, which is nice - when you're selecting drivers, you can enter some T/S parameters instead, and try your own speakers. I haven't tried this, and don't know how reliable it is - happy experimenting.
Hope this has helped you, and feel free to ask any questions you wish.
|9th January 2010, 07:55 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2009
i will try to translate some words....................
Datei file speichern save laden import,download;
Frequenzgang,F-Gang frequency response Imp impedance
Energiefrequenzgang frequency resp. of acoustic energy;
Chassis driver Einbau build in
gemeinsames Aussengehäuse one common speaker box (for all drivers)
Weiche editieren edit crossover
Auslegung geschlossene Box design a closed box
Bassreflex Box vented/ported box
Standardweichen standard xover
Spannungsteiler attenuation with res
Impedanzkorrekturglieder impedance equalizer rc network
Hilfsberechnungen assistance calculations
max. Pegel max. output (limit) in dB
F-Gang Richtungen frequency response off axis
Bündelung acoustic bundle (versus frequency)
Abstrahlrichtung sound direction nach vorn in front
oben top unten bottom
Fasen sloping edges on front
Polung negativ reverted polarity
keine Verbindung no connection
Volumen box volume
Gehäuse integriert HT tweeter with closed backside
Last edited by mjf; 9th January 2010 at 08:13 PM.
|10th January 2010, 07:28 AM||#3|
Brilliant - thank you very much for that contribution.
|31st January 2010, 03:01 AM||#5|
Join Date: Aug 2009
Anyway, tried again(second attempt) to play around with this fellow. Managed to model my TIW300, but it need a 400liter sealed box....
To others that don't know German : Get Google Language tool on stand by. Atleast when you have any error message, you will able to know where's the fault. You can click on the error message and translate it. I managed to model it because of this...
|31st January 2010, 06:33 PM||#6|
Join Date: Jan 2009
the red line on the bottom of the page shows your mistakes(fehler)......that mostly means you forgot something:
maße a,b,c,.......measurements/dimension of the box forgotten (go to chassis& einbau......gemeinsames aussengehäuse.........)
fs,rdc,qes,.......thiele-small parameter/driver data import forgotten - you have to choose a driver;
berechnung erfolgreich calculation successfully
but if you do not see a frequency response after this.........you forgot to design a crossover (go to verstärker.......weiche edit(ieren).......right click on the schematic opens the parts window........);
if you want to calculate a vented or closed box........go to
extra(s)........auslegung geschl./bassreflex........and ......daten aus chassisdatei importeren(import driver data)...............after this boxsim calculates both types of boxes..........and you can play around with different volume,........
Last edited by mjf; 31st January 2010 at 06:37 PM.
|26th May 2010, 05:33 PM||#8|
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: City Of Villans
Blog Entries: 1
anyone got any sources for 'zma.' files?
im looking for some (as many as possible) sources for zma. files, so that i can upload into Boxsim and fiddle with drivers other than Visatons.
All help appreciated.
Every new piece of knowledge pushes something else out of my brain - Homer.....................Simpson
|26th May 2010, 06:20 PM||#9|
Don't you mean the .BCH files?
That's what all the driver files are...
I get the impression that it's possible to load your own drivers into the program, but I've no idea how. Perhaps contact them, asking for instructions on how to create the files?
|26th May 2010, 07:48 PM||#10|
Join Date: Jan 2009
it is possible to load other drivers...........or yourself measured drivers.
but i did not work it out how to do (not enough time.........).
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