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#161 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi vgeorge,
Can you explain your PSU arrangements ? I found different PSUs made a big difference. I'm currently building new PSU for mine. Will eventually try an actively regulated supply but for now I'm building a new CLC supply using multiple 50V 2,200uF Panasonic FCs.
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . oOo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Best to assume that everything makes a difference |
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#162 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: poros island
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I run an 40A IXYS bridge to 4700uF 0.1R 22000uF.
Dual mono with two transformers. Also did not install the small bypass caps for the time being. Need to do some housekeeping also on the input cables as it seems to get a slight hiss from them on my very sensitive speakers. I' m sure that every improvement in the PS would be worthwhile. I' m looking forward for your results in the regulates PS.
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"Without deviations from the norm, progress is not possible" - Frank Zappa |
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#163 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hello, I'm going for my first time amp build. Is it advisable to use Soft Start & Speaker Turn-On Delay and DC Protector Boards together with this amp? Also, what is my best shot for HIFI2000 enclosure, if I'll go with double mono PSU arrangement. I'm thinking about this one: modushop.biz
What bothers me with above, is that heatsink figures are not explicitly stated. My guess, these are 300mm heatsinks (as per other 4U models) that are rated at 0.31 C/W, so it should be alright. |
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#164 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think a 0.31 c/w heatsink will be fine.
about the other ideas, different people will have different opinions but ultimately you have to think through your priorities and choose the elements that you want / need. personally I always go to sound quality as a priority over convenience etc. This amp has no turn on thump that I have ever noticed so having a relay on the o/p does not seem logical to me unless you build in DC sensing which I think may be a bit over the top with AC Feedback. slow start seems like a sensible idea to me - less violent start up which I think means that a fastblow mains fuse can be a smaller value.
__________________
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . oOo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Best to assume that everything makes a difference |
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#165 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Denmark
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Quote:
I dissipate 70 watt in each heatsink. On how to build a psu there is a guide from TI. http://www.ti.com/lit/an/snaa057a/snaa057a.pdf I would recommend. not less than 300VA for two channels. For dual supply i would use 250VA or more myself with 25VAC secondary: Look at my search at Farnell For an IEC inlet: DD12.6121.111. - SCHURTER - FILTER, IEC, 6A, 2P SWITCH, 2P | Farnell United Kingdom Remember fusedrawer: 4301.1401 - SCHURTER - FUSE DRAWER | Farnell United Kingdom For capacitors choose can types 22000uF - 47000uF 40 - 63V, and choose EPCOS, Kemet: Digikey CAN type capacitor Bridge rectifier 15 - 25A. Only remember to bolt them to chassis so that they can get the heat away: digikey bridge rectifier Cheap and good speaker binding posts: digikey If you want something more exclusive: All Binding Posts I hope it helps a bit. |
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#166 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Denmark
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By the way, you do not need a Speaker Turn-On Delay and DC Protector Boards.
Only a simple softstart as in the note from TI. |
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#167 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thank you, Sonny. It helps a lot, as it's a very comprehensive answer.
I'm off to read a TI guide then. As far as I see, in P2P TI PSU is a more complicated option for me than DIYaudio store boards. Still very curious to try... Two questions. Is it worth trying something upscale toroids wise from the start? Something like toroidy.pl stuff from my neighbourhood? If I would go two TX 300VA with 25V secondaries, then my Schurter IEC filter should be scaled at 12A, right? Best, Tomas |
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#168 |
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diyAudio Member
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Looking at TI PSU build guide and a soft start circuit, I have a question: are there any shortcomings doing it P2P way vs etched pcb?
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#169 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Scottish Borders - Kelso; on the famous Tweed River!
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And I have a heatsink question please!
I am new to SS amplifier building but have a small stock of parts including a 200mm wide x 400mm high x 40mm deep (incl. 10mm back plate with 30mm heavily ridged tapered fins @ 10mm centres.) This looks to be high quality and my question is what hight do ~I need as external heat sink per side with [V1.6 in normal form on Sonny's PCBs]. I am afraid that 200mm square may be a little too much - in the very heavy enclosure which I have - as I assume that a tall sink is more efficient than the same square measurement with a long base/less height. [The chassis / enclosure which I already have is made from 8mm sheet aloy, is very well ventilated top and bottom and has a lot of space.] |
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#170 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Denmark
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Quote:
You could easily use the DIYaudio powersupply board But do your self a favor and use capacitors designed for SMPS. They are simply better. And they will last longer in the heat. |
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