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#1 |
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:)
diyAudio Administrator
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One of the most difficult things about finishing any electronics project is finding a great enclosure for it. Up until now the options for North Americans have been very limited – the chassis available are either ugly, expensive, require international shipping or a combination of all three.
We're hoping we can change that! We've been working with an Italian company who we think make one of the world's most attractive and affordable chassis for the DIY-er, and will soon be placing an order to get those most suitable for diyAudio style projects into our Los Angeles warehouse so they can be shipped quickly and economically to anywhere in North America. Here is what we are proposing as the base models:
Additional configuration options:
Why buy a chassis from diyAudio?
Chassis Pricing:
Additional options:
Shipping:
Specifications Chassis ![]() Note: The 5U 400 heatsinks on each side are made from two pieces which are joined with a steel frame that compresses them together along the flush edges to create a strong bond between the two. There is no sign of “give”, slipping or sliding when assembled and they feel as rigid as a single heatsink. We have not measured significant temperature differences between the two pieces in use. The 5U 400 with the PTH option has the holes centered and symmetric, so there are 11 holes in each heatsink for a total of 22 per side and 44 per chassis. DIY Friendly Base (Optional – fits inside chassis as a second base) ![]() Photographs (please use the thumbnails at the very bottom of this post to zoom in) 2U 300 (No heatsinks) The 2U Chassis with 10mm solid aluminum faceplate in silver. Shown with a Mezmerize DCB1. 4U 300 (With heatsinks) The 4U chassis with 10mm solid aluminum faceplate in silver. Shown with a 400VA toroidal transformer. 5U 400 (With heatsinks) The 5U chassis with 10mm solid aluminum faceplate in black, with the diyAB "Honey Badger" inside (this chassis is overkill for the diyAB). DIY Friendly Base (DFB) DFB for the 5U 400 with a fully tested FirstWatt / Burning Amp power supply using a 400VA transformer, DA Cap Board, DA Diode Board and DA Soft-start Board (these will all be in the store soon). Pre-drilled, pre-threaded holes (PTH) PTH shown with an M3 bolt, an M3 brass standoff and a transistor package similar to what we use in the FW amplifiers. We need your input! We'd really like to hear your thoughts on the following options: General interest: Which chassis and how many would you order? Color: Whether you would prefer black or silver faceplates. Silver is more forgiving of scratches, we think it's more attractive generally and we'd like to keep things simple, but please let us know if you would much prefer black. Pre-drilled, pre-tapped holes (PTH): We've spent a great deal of time ensuring that the F4, F5, F5c, Burning Amps, diyAB Amp and (very soon) the F5x, all use the diyAudio Universal PCB & Semiconductor Mounting Specification M3 mounting holes, so one chassis can be used for multiple projects. It's not cheap to pre-tap the holes, but for the uninitiated tapping is scarey and time consuming. Would you pay $49 to have the UMS holes professionally pre-drilled and pre-tapped into all the heatsinks in your chassis? These boards currently in the store will work with the pre-tapped holes:
DIY Friendly Base (DFB): The DFB is pre-drilled with a grid of holes suitable for mounting your power supply and non-heatsink boards directly with M3 bolts without having to drill it. The new PSU, Soft-Start and Speaker Protection boards we'll have in our store shortly have all been designed to fit the 10.5mm x 12mm hole pattern. Since it doubles the base thickness, it also supports heavy components better. Would you order this for your chassis? Thanks for your time and feedback. We really hope that we can make this a win/win for all involved and solve one of the most difficult problems in making our own amplifiers and line level components. Last edited by Jason; 16th July 2012 at 04:51 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Some tube friendly chassis and something [smaller] earmarked for phono/line/dac applications would be welcome.
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"Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence." - Carl Sagan |
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#3 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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And all aluminum ones.
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com, frugal-phile.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
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Jason,
Congradulations to you and Mark for putting this together finally. I also second Dave that an aluminium case is a much better choice than sheet steel. And the extra cost is well justified. On top of that, it is important for anyone considering these cases to have data regarding heat sink performance. And by that I mean actual measured data, and not manufacturer's numbers. The reason behind this will be explained in details in an article on Class A case design by your truely in Linear Audio Vol. 3. (Hope Jan will forgive me for leaking the news upfront.) Patrick
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xen-audio.com Last edited by Variac; 22nd March 2012 at 05:52 AM. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I agree with both David and Euvl. Aluminum is ideal and getting a proper heatsink is one of the most difficult aspects for the class A crowd. I would think an all clear or clear with black sinks should be an option, but i am being peculiar at this point.
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#6 |
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www.audiohobby.com
diyAudio Member
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Really awesome work, guys!
I'm sure I'd order a couple of the big ones, with pre-tapped holes, and the bottom plate. Either color is fine. All aluminum would be nice, but perhaps that's not possible. Probably a small chassis as well. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: near the House of the Mouse
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Fantastic
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Thanks ![]() Never give a Systems Analyst a screwdriver or hammer
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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This is a great idea!
My suggestion would be to offer the 3U heatsinked version as well, as it is adequate to a wide variety of projects and aestetically pleasing. Also, I woud suggest that you reduce a bit the countersinking of the tapped holes. Quoting from ESP - Heatsink design and transistor mounting : "It is vitally important that any recess or countersinking is only large enough to prevent metal "stretch" - overly large recesses will do more harm than good, either by reducing the available surface area, and/ or allowing the transistor flange to be distorted." |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'd like to make a recommendation for something sized more suitably for a project like the Shigaclone transport. I'm not sure any of the current sizes would be ideal. Maybe an enclosure more along the lines of what Bel Canto uses for its digital products, in one or two heights.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Jason and Mark:
This is terrific news for those of us in North America -- thank you! I've purchased seven enclosures from HiFi2000 and really appreciate both their construction and cosmetics (I admit to being a sucker for the 10mm front panels); HiFi2000 makes really nice boxes. My experience with purchasing directly from HiFi2000 has been a little problematic, not because of any malice on their part but because their command of English isn't very good, making it easy to miscommunicate (and who wants the wrong box showing up?). Coupled with the cost of shipping heavy enclosures from Bologna, Italy, the shipping times and the customs duties, dealing with HiFi2000 was not an inexpensive solution; even so, I thought it was worth it. But buying from diyaudio would be a whole lot better. I have a few suggestions: 1. HiFi2000 offers a small chassis called the Galaxy Maggiorato, which looks like a half-width Slimline chassis and is well-suited as a power supply or chip amp enclosure; the photo below shows the power supply of my Aleph P1.7 in a Galaxy Maggiorato chassis to the left, the preamp in a Slimline chassis to the right. I suggest diyaudio add these small boxes to the list.Finally, when do you anticipate product availability? Regards, Scott
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