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Old 27th March 2012, 11:54 AM   #61
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jacco vermeulen View Post
Easy, do a hole with a regular drill bit, then clean the bottom with the broken one,
Is this the equivalent to a flat bottomed hole? As in spot face but deeper?
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Old 27th March 2012, 12:22 PM   #62
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(i'm not into flat bottoms)

To get the hole bottom levelled, one could use an endmill, but those are pretty costly and a snap hazard in the hands of a regular DIY Joe.
Prepping one for hole diving is out of DIY league too, e.g. how many here can say they really know how to freshen up a used drill bit by hand on a wet stone ?

(the broken drill bit is the oldest trick in the book)
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Last edited by jacco vermeulen; 27th March 2012 at 12:25 PM.
 
Old 27th March 2012, 12:50 PM   #63
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Are you describing a method to achieve a near flat bottomed hole?
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Old 27th March 2012, 04:01 PM   #64
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The option I would love to see is a pre-drilled back panel on the bigger amp chassis. This would include:

Rectangular opening for a Power Entry Module, said module would have an IEC socket, power switch, and fuse. You would probably want to stock the PEM and include it in the package with the pre-drilled back.

Holes for speaker posts,

Holes for RCA input jacks,

Holes for XLR input jacks.

A simple set of holes with provisions for the above, as well as the pre-drilled heatsinks and the DIY-friendly holes would make it possible to build an amp (using the universal mounting scheme PCB) and not need to do any metalwork other than screwing in fasteners.


That would be a major boon to the community and will get many beginners off the fence to build something, as it will be very similar to a kit.


(Oh, to answer your other questions, It's my suggestion to only stock the thick faceplate models in silver.)
 
Old 27th March 2012, 04:10 PM   #65
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Oh, one other thing --

If you stock a solid, non-perferated aluminum top piece for the 2U 300 it could be easily used as a base for a tube project with top mounted transformers and tubes. You would only have to stock one additional piece.

Aluminum is much easier to drill and make clean holes than the mild steel that the supplier uses.
 
Old 27th March 2012, 04:43 PM   #66
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Brilliant. I would like to see those pre-drilled for the Qualtek Q300 PEM. Maybe I'd finish my F5 someday, since I can't access a metalshop or the tools/area/room needed to build one myself...

A top plate for a Tubelab Simple SE would also be awesome.
 
Old 27th March 2012, 06:58 PM   #67
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This is a great idea. The displayed enclosures are absolutely gorgeous, very functional and seem to be reasonably priced.
 
Old 27th March 2012, 07:58 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6L6 View Post
If you stock a solid, non-perferated aluminum top piece for the 2U 300 it could be easily used as a base for a tube project with top mounted transformers and tubes. You would only have to stock one additional piece.

Aluminum is much easier to drill and make clean holes than the mild steel that the supplier uses.
+1

Thicker, non-perf top piece for tube projects would be welcomed. 3 mm aluminum would be nice, provided that it'll look good on the chassis. But 1.6 mm would work as well. I can add stiffeners under the heavy top-mounted parts.

Good initiative!! I was looking to order out of East Asia but I'll wait around for the 2Ux300 chassis to materialize.

~Tom
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Old 28th March 2012, 06:23 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaféNoir View Post
This is a great idea!

Also, I woud suggest that you reduce a bit the countersinking of the tapped holes.
Quoting from ESP - Heatsink design and transistor mounting :
"It is vitally important that any recess or countersinking is only large enough to prevent metal "stretch" - overly large recesses will do more harm than good, either by reducing the available surface area, and/ or allowing the transistor flange to be distorted."
The countersinking is just large enough to fit the protruding nylon bushings that will be used with TO-220 package devices (drivers, diodes, etc) to isolate the bolt. It is also just enough so as not to have any transistor flange/tab distortion. Besides, the standard M3 bolt head is still bigger than the diameter of the countersinking.
 
Old 28th March 2012, 06:48 AM   #70
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regarding screws for outputs - it's clever to use max possible dia - M3.5 or whatever is in non-metric size

Store can scavenge and sell small packages of these , but in greater quality (hardness?) than usual metal store generic ones .

either torx or wrench heads

same for big washers and spring washers
One of the reason M3 bolts were chosen was to allow a bit of slack for mounting the outputs, and any expansion that may occur.

High tensile M3 bolts with allen/torx or hex heads are widely available also.

 

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