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Old 10th September 2012, 11:57 PM   #161
Variac is offline Variac  United States
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The models with a drilled back panel is drilled for connectors, the front panel is undrilled.
 
Old 11th September 2012, 01:01 AM   #162
labjr is offline labjr  United States
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Far as I'm concerned, the more rugged and heavier, the better. I don't want a cheapo looking enclosure.
 
Old 11th September 2012, 01:37 AM   #163
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Carbide is harder then aluminum....carbide router bits and saw blades for wood definitely cut aluminum. I just went into the shop and tried a regular steel Forster bit in my drill press. It worked fine. Spin the bit slowly and clamp the work firmly. I had to apply quite a bit of pressure, but once the bit started cutting it made shavings of the aluminum just like wood. I would definitely drill a scrap to try it before I cut into a live part
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Old 11th September 2012, 01:46 AM   #164
RNMarsh is offline RNMarsh  United States
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I would only use all aluminum chasis.
 
Old 11th September 2012, 06:51 AM   #165
Variac is offline Variac  United States
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I would only use all aluminum chasis.
aluminum vs. steel is a night and day difference in ease of cutting.
 
Old 11th September 2012, 08:44 AM   #166
Jason is offline Jason  Australia
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Originally Posted by dirkwright View Post
TEN millimeter front panels? For DIY, thinner is better. Why the obsession with thick front panels when there is no functional reason to have it?
Everyone has their own interpretation of what DIY means for them. There are plenty of thin boxes on the market today and they mostly look naff, not something that feels like an appropriate home for the pièce de résistance you have put hundreds of hours into. These aren't trying to compete with those thin boxes. These are premium chassis for people that want something that looks as good as you know it sounds, and has a tough and solid feel to it.

Having worked myself now with Aluminum and Steel, I can say that the difference in night and day. Aluminum cuts (relatively) like butter, steel is very difficult to work with unless you have heavy duty machinery. We'll be offering both, as steel is a a fair bit cheaper, so that you can choose an appropriate option for your workshop or lack thereof.

Last edited by Jason; 11th September 2012 at 08:50 AM.
 
Old 11th September 2012, 05:19 PM   #167
6speed is offline 6speed  United States
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Well, while we're on the subject of DIY work of the aluminum face plate. Does a silver/natural panel need to be "oxidized" or "finished" in anyway after customization?
 
Old 11th September 2012, 05:40 PM   #168
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Well, while we're on the subject of DIY work of the aluminum face plate. Does a silver/natural panel need to be "oxidized" or "finished" in anyway after customization?
Not unless you want a different look. Aluminum forms an oxide layer very quickly in the presence of air.
 
Old 11th September 2012, 06:28 PM   #169
Mr. dB is offline Mr. dB  United States
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Will the bottom plate be hefty enough to support a 600-750 VA transformer without the DIY-Friendly Base option?
 
Old 11th September 2012, 06:54 PM   #170
labjr is offline labjr  United States
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Well, while we're on the subject of DIY work of the aluminum face plate. Does a silver/natural panel need to be "oxidized" or "finished" in anyway after customization?
Not sure if the faceplates can be ordered raw. I think they are anodized. So you need to be careful not to drill anything which will show on the outside when you're done. Or not be covered with a knob etc..Anodizing isn't absolutely neccessary. It just makes it look nice.
 

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