The diyAudio Store (USA) soon to stock chassis – requesting your feedback!

[dirkwright]

TEN millimeter front panels? Pardon me, but are you mad? Do you know that virtually no volume pots, toggle or rotary switches will fit on such a thick panel? How in the heck is someone supposed to mount say a nice Neutrik locking headphone connector on such a panel unless they have their very own milling machine? I have a couple of boxes from Siliconray with 6mm front panels and they are still too thick for me to do much with besides just basic drilling, besides the fact that several of the pots and switches I have do not have enough thread on them to fit on the panels. I would have to send the panels out to a shop to have them mill a hole for the above mentioned Neutrik headphone D style connector. For DIY, thinner is better.

[SRMcGee]

Dirk:

One solution is to drill a hole where you want the shaft of your switch to be located and then enlarge that hole, working from the rear face of the panel, using a large bit, say 0.75" or 1". If you drill in just 6 or 7 mm from the rear using the larger bit, you'll have space to mount the switch and 3 or 4 mm of metal to secure it to.

Regards,
Scott

[dirkwright]

Originally Posted by SRMcGee

Dirk:

One solution is to drill a hole where you want the shaft of your switch to be located and then enlarge that hole, working from the rear face of the panel, using a large bit, say 0.75" or 1". If you drill in just 6 or 7 mm from the rear using the larger bit, you'll have space to mount the switch and 3 or 4 mm of metal to secure it to.

Regards,
Scott

Where do you get a Forstner bit for aluminum? (since that's the only way really be sure that the bottom of the recess is going to be flat) OTOH, I doubt my drill press can swing a 1" bit into aluminum.

[6L6]

Originally Posted by dirkwright

Where do you get a Forstner bit for aluminum? (since that's the only way really be sure that the bottom of the recess is going to be flat) OTOH, I doubt my drill press can swing a 1" bit into aluminum.

This is what I would try -

Drill a pilot hole that is the size of the Forstner's pointy bit.

Clamp the work.

Go really slow and use lots of motor oil or 3-in-1. Clean the spall out from under the bit often.

The biggest problem is that there is no way of "trying it out" on a piece that won't show.

[Marra]

If you are using rotary switches and have the space in the chassis a sub panel can be the simplest solution.Use a piece of 3mm alluminium spaced back from the 10mm plate with blind tapped holes and some pcb type spacers and attatch the switches to this leaving you to only have to drill 6mm holes in the front panel.Use some 6mm nylon washers ala Peter Daniels set into the back of the 10mm so that the extension pieces of 6mm dia. rod does'nt bind.Hope this makes sense.

[dirkwright]

Originally Posted by 6L6

This is what I would try -

Drill a pilot hole that is the size of the Forstner's pointy bit.

Clamp the work.

Go really slow and use lots of motor oil or 3-in-1. Clean the spall out from under the bit often.

The biggest problem is that there is no way of "trying it out" on a piece that won't show.

Have you tried this? I have some Forstner bits and they are not rated for metal, or at least don't look like it.

[dirkwright]

Originally Posted by Marra

If you are using rotary switches and have the space in the chassis a sub panel can be the simplest solution.Use a piece of 3mm alluminium spaced back from the 10mm plate with blind tapped holes and some pcb type spacers and attatch the switches to this leaving you to only have to drill 6mm holes in the front panel.Use some 6mm nylon washers ala Peter Daniels set into the back of the 10mm so that the extension pieces of 6mm dia. rod does'nt bind.Hope this makes sense.

Yes, I realize there are ways to do this. I have done similar before. It is a PITA and requires ordering various obscure hardware parts from unusual places.

Your solution will only work if the shaft for the control is long enough. Otherwise, you need to make an extension and provide a bearing support.

It is far easier to just use a thinner front panel. Why the obsession with thick front panels when there is no functional reason to have it? Do people think their amp will sound better with a thick front panel?

[Woody1911a1]

my solution is to use a router on slow speed and a straight mortising bit . aluminum machines really nice using ordinary woodworking tools . i often use a 45 deg chamfering bit on panels with excellent results . i wouldn't even try a forstner bit . cheers Woody

[mattmcl]

Yup, I have a Dremel with the routing attachment, which allows me to set the depth. With a metal routing bit, it would be super easy to remove some thickness from the back.

Never even considered trying a regular router though... seems kind of scary.

[6speed]

I thought these were going to all be pre-drilled? I'm still waiting to see these like everyone else, but I just assumed I would have to order a custom milled face plate from Italy so it's how I want it, versus a pre-drilled verson...overall I love the 10mm face plate "look".