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#101 |
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diyAudio Member
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One last vote for adding a 3U version as well. Heatsinks preferred.
__________________
-- jk -- |
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#102 |
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:)
diyAudio Administrator
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Thanks again to everyone who submitted their feedback and/or filled in a survey. We've been busy putting the final details together to make this a reality, and as they say, the devil is in the details.
We've created a CNC back plate specification now, which is attached below.
We'll be offering a pack including a quality PEM, 4 keyed high quality binding posts and two RCAs that will all drop straight in. We're now just a few days away from placing the order, and there will be stock in the store within 2 months. Last edited by Variac; 19th April 2012 at 06:58 AM. |
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#103 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: tucson
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Looks sweet definitely in for a 4U for my first power amp. Ive been havign trouble findign the right sinks for a F5 clone
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#104 |
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diyAudio Member
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Wow! The back panel spec looks great. Very happy to see this being offered... The products available from this site will hopefully open up the chance for lots of new people to have a successful first build!
Is there a PSU board in the works? It's the last ingredient needed for this endeavor to really work well. |
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#105 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: MA
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Looks great so far!
I second the power supply board. I would however like to use a Neutrik Powercon inlet instead of the IEC. Will there be blank or partially blank back panels ? |
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#106 |
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diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
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Power supply board on its way to the store!!! Will be at the N. American store in a little over a week. Euro Store in 2 weeks
Blank rear panels will be available... |
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#107 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taipei, Taiwan
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"5. Can HiFi2000 also supply a stiffer panel for the bottom of the Pesante Dissipante boxes? I'd happily spring for a 3, 4 or 5mm aluminum bottom panel if it would be significantly stiffer than those that HiFi2000 ordinarily includes. One of the few complaints I read about these enclosures is that the connection between the bottom panels and heat sinks may need to be strengthened if the amp is very heavy; a heavier-duty bottom panel would help."
This is correct. I use a bracing bridge on mine, which doubles as a transformer shield to add stiffness. |
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#108 | |
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:)
diyAudio Administrator
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Quote:
Please find attached the "release candidate" UMS specification PDF, which has a nice example page for every single supported PCB, as well as another PDF showing our current placement of the holes relative to the top and bottom of the heatsink itself. It would be great to have some feedback from those knowledgeable in the field as to whether our approximations of how much lower to place the holes than the center line to compensate for the top of the heatsink getting hotter than the bottom, are a good bet. In regards to production of the chassis, once the above UMS is locked in, we'll proceed with the order. We think that the final product lineup and pricing (TBA soon) will address the needs of most, while keeping the complexity manageable for us. If the first run is a success we'll add more options for the next run. |
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#109 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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The holes in the 210 tall sink look about right since the 80mm vertical gap is fixed.
The holes in the 165 tall sink look a bit too high. Is there room to move the group down 5mm or 10mm. What sticks out the bottom of the PCB? If the bottom 40mm is reduced to as low as 30mm would something foul up on the baseplate? I have not done any calculations. These are just initial comment based on observation. |
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#110 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: searching...
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Noted. I'd check the clearance of the bracket attached to the heatsink and see how farther down it can go.
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