Yes I did - all of them to known better brands bought here in the US. Nothing real fancy or expensive, just known brands. I think my 2nd cap in the power supply I swapped to United Chemicon (blue cap) with low ESR and good ripple characteristics, 1st cap 47uF I swapped to a Panasonic (cant remember which type). What you want with a single ended amp is the best power supply you can afford AND fit in the chassis and good coupling caps. That is where you will gain the best in performance... well that and get a good 6N1P-EV from Russia, already mentioned the 5Y3 rectifier and of course go to 5881 or 6L6WXT+ (Russian 6L6). You could most likely get the 6N1 and 6L6wxt+ from the same vendor on epay.
Cheers,
Bob
Cheers,
Bob
Should be fine but the sound "may" change - experiment and see it wont hurt. You could probably safely go up to .1uF. Can you get Russian KY40 paper in oil caps they should be cheap in Europe, for a euro or 2 they will beat most all boutique caps. They come in .22uF and .33uF and I think .47uF. Experimenting is fun just take care to discharge your capacitors there in the power supply if you don't have a bleeder resistor hooked up.
Cheers,
Bob
It's all good. I don't know if Ray actually built one of these.
For bleeder - 270K is fine just use what you've got laying about. Put it on the first capacitor after the build is complete. You can't put it in place while building the amp, you have to wait until you have the circuit built. So you have to be VERY careful when testing voltages, those 450v caps can discharge if you touch them. What I do when building an amp is get a wire wound resistor (large white rectangle shaped) and solder wire leads to the ends and hold the resistor in the middle and touch each end to the + - of the first cap to discharge and do it 2 times and then test with a multi-meter to be sure there's no voltage... after a while you will get somewhat comfortable, just be careful. Assume the caps are ALWAYS charged with 450v even after you drained them with a resistor.
What I do is build the power supply and then test voltages ALWAYS FROM TUBE PIN TO GROUND never across the pins on the rectifier - you can blow your DMM (if it cant handle +800v or so) testing across pin 4 & 6. Test pin 4 to ground and pin 6 to ground (red on pin 6, black on ground point). You should see about 420-450v there with no tubes installed.
How far along are you with this build?
Cheers,
Bob
Hi Bob , this Amplifier is already build its not mine a friend of mine bought it build already from a electronics shop here in Andalusia (Spain ) he has it 6 weeks now but 2 weeks ago it started to hum , somewhere on the forum Siliconray suggested in relationwith the Hum to change the Electrolytics and the volume pot . When the amp was introduced to me 6 weeks ago he was dead quiet and now we decided to do the things you suggested I found an interesting Russian Components seller : rutubes.com and he has the 6N1P-EV , 0,33uF/200V K40Y PIO Caps and some 0,1uF/600V TEFLON as a bypass on the last 22uF Electrolytic . The rest we will buy from a German Internet store . Very good trick how you discharge the 450 V Caps . Thanks a lot Bob
Hum - I never used the kit supplied power supply capacitors, when I measured uF they were WAY off to begin with so I just bought new ones from a trusted supplier here in the USA (Mouser). Also I tested all the resistors as well to be sure they were to spec. and replaced a few of them. Could be the power transformer or the choke. I'd probably use a signal tracer to see if I could find out where the hum starts in circuit, but I'd be changing all of the Chinese tubes for Russian and USA equivalent subs first.
Cheers,
Bob
When you measured the Caps they were way of , the 330uF/450V I can not find but the nearest I can find is the 350uF/385 JJ Caps or should I go for the 500uF/500V ? Also I can not get the 22uF but instead can get 2X 10 uF or 1x 30uF .We do not have a signal tracer but if we do improve on the Tubes and Electrolytics we might be on our way to the Sound of Silence . Paul
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