| PhilM400 |
| You could say this is a self induced nightmare as I knew buying the Shanling cd-t80 on ebay from a seller in China would void the warranty. After using it for very few hours the cd stopped spinning. The lens still moves to try to read the disc. After a few seconds it displays the no cd message. So now I have a nice looking, aluminum clad, rather large paperweight for my desk. I was using a Radio Shack step up transformer to power it up. I wonder if that could have caused a problem as the voltage would still be 60cps not the 50cps as it was designed to run on. I was told this wouldn't be a problem. What is a problem are the audio withdrawal symptoms I'm now experiencing now that I don't have the Shanling to listen to anymore. The upgrade in sound the player gave me was amazing. I'm thinking of buying from an authorized local audio dealer the new cd3000 that Shanling just recently introduced. Anyone interested in a big paperweight? Maybe I'll list it on ebay and chalk it up to a lesson learned the hard way. |
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| QSerraTico_Tico |
| I think you needed a step down transformer as China is 230V and USA 110V??? |
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| johnm |
Try unscrewing the base plate - there are 2 or 3 screws running along the center of the plate, and the four feet need to come off as well. Once done th eunderneath should come off quite easily.
Then you'll notice on a section of circuit board several solder points - one of which will correspond to the voltage of your area. Check where the positive is currently soldered to, and then resolder this wire to the correct voltage point.
Hope this may be of some help to you.
- John |
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| PhilM400 |
| Step down or step up the one I have brings the wall voltage from 117 up to 235 volts that the cd-t80 was meant to run on. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas as to what might have caused the cd player has stopped spinning. Is it fixable? |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks John! I'll try that out. What you're saying is that if I change the transformers connection points it will be good to go on US voltage straight from the wall. To my understanding the cd-t80 wasn't made for USA distribution so I wonder if this option is availible on it. I'll open it up and see. |
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| PhilM400 |
| I should have know not to question you John. Sure enough I found the three solder points for the transformer. It was set up for 220v. I've reset it now to run straight from the wall outlet at 117v. Unfortunately the cd still will not spin. Everything powers up and looks normal otherwise. I'm thinking that the Radio Shack transformer may have caused the damage. I just measured the voltage out from the transformer at 251 volts. I'd been running the cd-t80 in short intervals of an hour or 90 minutes but on the night it stopped working I had some friends over and we were spinning cd's for 3 to 4 hrs. Maybe the heat built up and caused something to burn out (the cd motor?). I never noticed that it was running at a high temperature though. Wish there was a fuse that could have gone first. Anyone have any ideas? Should I try to find the cd's motor and see if there is any voltage getting to it. Thanks for your help! |
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| cm |
If I am not mistaken, then Shangling uses a Philips 12.1 lazer mechanism. Well, my Shangling A10T does. And when the lazer goes kaput, the CD player displays that kind of behaviour. Buy a replacement mechanism and try your luck. They cost about US$13 each in Singapore and cheaper in China. Cheap enough to take a chance than to write off the paperweight.
Lots of resources all over this forum on how to replace the mechanism. ( also used on the popular Marantz CD63 CD player ). Search for it. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks cm I'll check out the Philips 12.1 and will try to find more info on it. The Shanling would do a good job of holding down papers but I'd much rather be listening to it play cd's. |
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| Sonusthree |
Hi,
Here's a very useful page for changing the CDM12.1.
http://iangclark.net/projects/CD63/CD63.html
I believe that the current equivalent of the CDM12.1 is the VAM1201 or VAM1202.
I wonder if you might have blown a regulator or cap? Just a thought. Also, Some regulators shut down if short circuited by another component further downstream.
Regards,
Martin. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks for the links on changing the CDM12.1! Anyone know anything about the spinning drive circuit? |
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| Sonusthree |
| quote: | Originally posted by PhilM400
Thanks for the links on changing the CDM12.1! Anyone know anything about the spinning drive circuit? |
Firstly, I must say that I am no expert so anyone else should correct me if they have any better ideas but .....
:att'n: Some of these steps involve working near dangerous mains voltages. Take necessary precautions and, if in doubt, ask or get someone else to do it :att'n:
You may or may not be comfortable with the following procedures. Be careful.
I think your first move is to inspect the relevant power supply in your player starting with the voltages coming out of the regulators. (Take care not to short them while doing this.) These will be the first things to be stressed by over voltage.
You should have many regulators inside and at least one separately feeding the servo section. The servo chip and associated ancillaries can be looked at later on if necessary (hope not!). These control the speed of the motor etc.
I think that we are all hoping that you have blown something simple in the power supply to the spindle motor that can easily be replaced. I guess we will see.
A new laser would be handy if you can bear the extra and perhaps unneccessary cost. If it's not needed then you will have a spare for later. It's always useful to eliminate another possible cause.
I am not familiar with your player and I think that it may be useful if you could get some good photos of the insides so that we can help you to troubleshoot.
Are you up for getting your hands dirty or will you take it to a shop for repair?
Kind regards,
Martin. :D
P.S. I don't mean to patronise you with the safety spiel but you just never know who may be reading this. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks so much Martin! Being a photographer I should provide you with some decent photos of the Shanling circuit boards. I don't have much experience in repairing this type of equiptment. I do have a degree in electronic technology (a long time ago). Shortly after graduation I took a course in photography and found that was my passion. I've allways had an intrest in audio and electronics though. I still have a volt-ohm meter and a soldering iron (may have to get a soldering pencil with a sharp point for this fine work though). Nothing fancy though, no oscilloscope... I'm game to give it a try if you are. I can take some circuit photos tonight and will post a link to them for all to view. Thanks for your help and all replies!!! |
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| dublin78 |
Hi Phil
How did the CDP sound before it went kaput?
They sell on ebay cheaply from Hong Kong (circa £400) - quite tempting.
Michael |
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| PhilM400 |
Hi Michael,
It sounded amazing! Details that were muddy or lost in a narrow sound stage were opened up with great clarity and seperation. Very natural sounding too. Ringo hitting his drum sticks together on Act Naturally, Help UK version, was sounding like he was sitting right next to me in my living room. Horns, Coltrane... Miles... Lester Young, all picked up a warm rich resonance. In summation I'd say that the Shanling extended the listening experience giving it a texture you can feel and almost touch. I did say I'm suffering from withdrawal didn't I? |
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| Apogee |
Hi Phil,
I don't think you hurt it with the step-up transformer.
If I had to guess, it's a failure that would have failed anyway had someone else bought it. In the computer industry, we have a saying that if something makes it the first month than it will run forever...
Try rotating the motor shaft to make sure it rotates freely and isn't bound up. Also, trace the circuit around the motor and look carefully to see if there happens to be a cold solder joint. I'd just reflow that area to be sure - particularly where the motor is soldered to the board. Yes, you will have to take it apart to get to it.
It would be interesting to know if there is voltage at the motor terminals when it's trying to spin up. If so, you either have a cold joint or bad motor.
I agree regarding changing the cd mechanism. Not hard and it will likely fix the problem.
Keep us posted. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks Steve! I know that there is a tolerance for the ac voltage (10%???) I still exceeded that by a good bit. You may be on to something with that first month theory. It makes sense to me. I've found a place in Germany N-tronics that sell the cd mechanism VAM1201/12 for 25 euro. I'll try to find some other places to get it and will put in an order soon. In the meantime I'll try your suggestions and will also post some photos that I've taken. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Here's the link to photos. When I take the top lid off of the transport and maybe pull it apart I'll post more photos of those areas. cd-t80 photos |
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| Apogee |
You might consider hitting the motor with some dc just to see if it works.
Like someone else posted, it might just be a bad regulator and it would cost $3...
Worth a try.
Also, did you try calling Shanling? Perhaps they will show mercy and help you out with it.
Just a thought. |
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| PhilM400 |
| To get at the motor I guess I'll have to pull out the transport. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks Steve! |
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| PhilM400 |
| I've added a couple more photos. One from underneath shows the laser pick-up motor and the spindle motor. motors The other is looking down at the laser pick-up and transport tray. laser pick-up From what I can see the laser pickup motor moves the laser head. I can't see any light coming from it though. There's no attempt to spin the cd at all. I can spin it a little by hand but it does nothing on its own. If I test the motor by hitting it with some dc as Steve mentioned I imagine I would first need to disconnect it. How many volts dc? I've found a cdm 12.1 pickup mechanism for $20 at electronix.com in Ohio. I'll run the test on the motor before ordering it. |
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| cm |
My VCD player, as well as a Philips boombox uses this same mechanism. You cannot get CDM12.1 anymore but the VAM1201 or VAM 1202 works as well. I replace the lens about once every two years when the lazer wears out. The symptoms when the lazer wears - the motors do not spin the disc. Meanwhile there are clicking sounds as the head move up and down tryng to focus and detect the CD. If it cannot detect the CD, it displays no CD and the CD do not spin spins. If it is not a sudden death situation with the lazer, the player starts to work intermitently as the lazer weakens. You can get anther couple of months out of the lazer as it weakens by slightly adjusting the little pot on the flex as seen on your frst picture. After a while, the adjustments does not work anymore, and will need a new one. I no longer bother as the lazer is cheap enough anyway. I keep a couple of spares at home since I will be replacing them regularly.
My cheap chinese VCD player ( US$20 then ) died after one month, and I had to replace the lazer. Probably because it was manufactured with remanufactured lazers with a slight adjustment to the pot! |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks cm! Yes I'm I'm hoping it just needs a laser replacement. It does what you describe. The noise while trying to focus and read the disc. Then the no disc message. I've searched for info on changing the laser as you suggested and have found some pretty good directions. None specific to the Shanling though. I imagine installing a new laser is pretty much the same for all players using this VAM 1201 or 1202. I will order it tomorrow. |
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| PhilM400 |
| I've been having a hard time locating the VAM1202 cd mechanism for a decent price. Donberg Electronics, Donegal, has it for 30 euro + 20 euro shipping. This adds up to about 67$$$. Which is not much to pay if it cures the Shanling of the No Disc Blues. Yet it doesn't seem to be as readily available as led to believe. I've found that most discount sellers are not interested in selling one unit and are looking to sell wholesale lots. |
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| stephensank |
Dalbani is showing the VAM1202 in stock at $12.80 each. You know, if I had bought an expensive "high end" cd player/transport, and found out it used a $13 transport mech, I'd be darn well ****ed off. I don't know how any of you guys can stomach this CDM12-series garbage. Anyway, the VAM1202 link:
http://www.dalbani.com/CGI-BIN/LANS...707FA3J+M36+ENG |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks for this info!It's just what I need. Looks like they have a minimum order of 20$ online. Maybe I'll order two and have one as a backup. You're right it's incredible that they don't put a higher quality mechanisim into the transport. Does the cdm effect output sound quality? |
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| tubenut |
| quote: | | if I had bought an expensive "high end" cd player/transport, and found out it used a $13 transport mech, I'd be darn well ****ed off. I don't know how any of you guys can stomach this CDM12-series garbage. |
There are not that many options in current production anymore, in fact many manufacturers have started using DVD mechs in CD players....
I do not even think there are more then say 2 high grade mechanisms in current production...... |
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| diyampss |
Photo 10 & 15 - notice top center Ground trace near U13 appears melted and open. Solder thin wire carefully. Do this before attempting lazer replacement. Also ground the ground prong on the power plug to prevent static electricity before, while soldering and reassembling. the circuit boards.
As a safety measure the first time starting up the CD player place a 120 volt in series with the power cord. Use a Low watt 25 or 40 light bulb to protect the CD player from shorted components that might have caused the circuit board trace to over heat originally.
Let us know how you made out and good luck Phil. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Good eye to spot that! I'll try what you are saying over the weekend and will update all on how it worked out. Thanks!!! |
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| QSerraTico_Tico |
| quote: | Originally posted by PhilM400
Good eye to spot that! I'll try what you are saying over the weekend and will update all on how it worked out. Thanks!!! |
I doubt it. The actual copper track is very wide and intact. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Here's an update as how things stand at this point. I tested out that ground line that looked like it might have opened up. It was still continuous. Somehow it looks a little more funky in the photo than it actally is. I'm waiting for two VAM1202 mechanisms that I bought from Dalbani. These should arrive tomorrow. Thanks to everyone for all the help! |
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| PhilM400 |
| HOT DOG!!! It worked! I put the new mechanisim in and it's working again. Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions and help in guiding me through this. Now that I'm not feeling afraid to pull it apart maybe I should try upgrading the OPA 2406's. AGAIN, THANKS VERY MUCH TO ALL!!! |
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| Sonusthree |
Well done Phil! You have passed the initiation test!!
P.S. Don't forget to keep the old part for spares that may get you out of a tight spot.
Martin. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks Martin! The links you posted for changing the mechanism were a big help. Also another good link for anyone else trying this; How To Replace Laser Assembly |
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| johnm |
Excellent :) Glad you got it working again Phil! Great stuff and you didn't have to pay a ridiculous repair bill. I got a similar kick when I replaced a laser in a Naim CDI after being told by Naim it would cost £450+ to get the mechanism replaced.... I did it for £15!!!
Now to get working on those op-amps ;)
- John |
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| PhilM400 |
| Here's a sad update to the Shanling nightmare. The fix of replacing the cd mechanism wasn't long lived. It was working fine for awhile. Then the cd wouldn't spin without a little push and now even with a push it won't spin up. I just connected a 1.5 volt battery to the spindle motor of the original mechanism that I removed and it rotated at what looks to be a pretty decent and constant speed. I wonder if the problem can be in the logic circuit. Anyway I'm running out of patience and am thinking I may see if Shanling will repair it. Awhile back I mentioned the cd-t80 to USA Shanling distributor Music Hall Audio and they said they never heard of this model. Don't know if they will help with getting it repaired. |
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| Sonusthree |
Hi Phil, Sorry to hear of your problems.
I'm suspicious of these CDM/VAM units. I've just installed one in my player (cambridge CD4se) and it now jumps to any track without a fuss but ......... every now and then the music slows down and distorts like a bad drum n' bass record. Interesting effect but annoying and frustrating!!!
My point here is that I supspect that these Philips VAM's may well suffer from dodgy spindle motors. My experiences so far seem to point in that direction. I've just salvaged another spindle motor from an old player and so I'll see what happens when I swap it.
Don't give up hope just yet but I wouldn't blame you for running out of patience.
Best regards,
Martin. |
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| PhilM400 |
| Thanks Martin! Yes these cdm's are very flimsy. Another thing I find odd about them is the pricing. I bought my replacement VAM1202 from Dalbani for $12. I've seen them listed elsewhere for $60. Happy that I only paid 12 and just wondering if there is any difference in quality. My guess is that they're the same. Good luck with your cdm problem. Is there a spin doctor in the house??? |
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| Sonusthree |
Yeah I've bought three of these from Dalbani (UK) and some others elesewhere. They all looked identical except that only one had an official philips box and sticker on the actual transport.
The one that I have recently replaced was temperemental from the start!!!
I'll let you know how I get on. |
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| shepperd |
I just ordered one from them for my Marantz. It works fine (18£).
You're giving me the willies! I hope I got lucky. |
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| Extreme_Boky |
| quote: | | I'm suspicious of these CDM/VAM units. I've just installed one in my player (cambridge CD4se) and it now jumps to any track without a fuss but ......... every now and then the music slows down and distorts like a bad drum n' bass record. Interesting effect but annoying and frustrating!!! |
Check if the top magnetic “spinning” pack is scratching the plastic. Flatten the 4 rubber distancers to allow the whole mechanism to be positioned properly (vertically).
Boky |
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| Extreme_Boky |
| quote: | deja vu all over again Post #36
Here's a sad update to the Shanling nightmare. The fix of replacing the cd mechanism wasn't long lived. It was working fine for awhile. Then the cd wouldn't spin without a little push and now even with a push it won't spin up. I just connected a 1.5 volt battery to the spindle motor of the original mechanism that I removed and it rotated at what looks to be a pretty decent and constant speed. I wonder if the problem can be in the logic circuit. Anyway I'm running out of patience and am thinking I may see if Shanling will repair it. Awhile back I mentioned the cd-t80 to USA Shanling distributor Music Hall Audio and they said they never heard of this model. Don't know if they will help with getting it repaired. |
I am sorry to hear your nightmare. Here are couple of suggestions:
The fact that you used step up transformer could be the problem. Depending no Shanling design and capacitor ratings, it may be possible that higher than nominal capacitor voltage rating caused some damage. You were supplying more than 220V, which could produce DC voltage levels above capacitor nominal voltage levels.
Get the circuit diagram and check voltages around servo section. Check main power supply voltage levels first.
The new mechanism you installed probably had a solder bulb somewhere to protect the laser from static discharge; did you remove it?
Boky |
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| singa |
| quote: | Originally posted by PhilM400
Here's a sad update to the Shanling nightmare. The fix of replacing the cd mechanism wasn't long lived. It was working fine for awhile. Then the cd wouldn't spin without a little push and now even with a push it won't spin up. I just connected a 1.5 volt battery to the spindle motor of the original mechanism that I removed and it rotated at what looks to be a pretty decent and constant speed. I wonder if the problem can be in the logic circuit. Anyway I'm running out of patience and am thinking I may see if Shanling will repair it. Awhile back I mentioned the cd-t80 to USA Shanling distributor Music Hall Audio and they said they never heard of this model. Don't know if they will help with getting it repaired. |
Hi, There is a possibility that the flat data cable from the laser
is badly inserted or damaged.If it is reinsert again at both ends
or get a new one.Hope this helps. |
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| Sonusthree |
| quote: | Originally posted by Extreme_Boky
Check if the top magnetic “spinning” pack is scratching the plastic. Flatten the 4 rubber distancers to allow the whole mechanism to be positioned properly (vertically).
Boky |
Cheers EB! I'll try that before I replace the motor. It'll take a while to evaluate since it is an intermittent fault but I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.
| quote: | Originally posted by Extreme_Boky
The new mechanism you installed probably had a solder bulb somewhere to protect the laser from static discharge; did you remove it?
Boky |
These VAM's come with a metal clip across the ribbon connector instead of the usual solder blob.
Best regards,
Martin. |
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| Ralphies |
I was looking at this treat (allways usefull to read a lot).
I read about the soder bulb, i allways was wondering why there are in Philips 600 series cd-players a "fat"bulb of solde was put on the print, so that is for discharging!
Thanks.
And i wish you good luck with repairing your cd-player!
Greetings Ralphies. |
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| MadMutt |
Sorry to take this slightly OT, But,
Does anyone have schematics for the scd-t200c ????????? |
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| PhilM400 |
| Glad to say my Shanling cd-t80 is back to spinning cd's and sounding quite nice with the OPA2132's. All this without sending it to the repair shop. On seeing that the original cdm (that I had replaced) worked when I connected a 1.5v battery (post 36) I figured there might be an intermittent connection. I removed the screws holding the board that sits below the cdm. photo and gave a little push to all the plastic wire connectors making sure that they were seated properly. I put the board back in place and to my surprise it came back to life. |
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| Sonusthree |
| Congratulations Phil!! Glad it worked out in the end. :) |
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| -(daz84)- |
| Hello all i have a shanling t100se and when i turned it on tonight,It moves the cd anticlockwise in a few pulses then says no disc.....:bawling: Im gutted to say the least but do you guys think the lazer mechanism is whats dead?Its what im thinking after reading this thread(Thankyou to phill) Any help is great,thanks. |
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