| Shaun |
I'm having crazy dreams of transplanting the SP10 Mk11 motor and platter into an ultra-modern plinth of the X- or T-shaped variety.
My greatest fear is destroying the synergy of the original design and ending up with something so-so. So, I'm begging ideas from the Collective Analogue Brain. My preference is to use a one-piece material such as acrylic or corian (as opposed to constrained layers).
So, what do you think of the:
a) shape
b) material
c) solid or layered
d) good/bad idea anyway
e) shielding of motor wires
f) mass of the plinth
g) suspension (yes/no)
Any advice much appreciated. |
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| Shaun |
Well, I'm fortunate to have 2 of these gems. The first SP10 is mounted in a plinth made of plywood and MDF laminations. It's quite solid and I estimate sufficiently massive.
Kaneta replaced the metal chassis and electronics (Kaneta SP10) with alternating solid wood laminations. His final form factor was a conventional square plinth. I want to do something similar, but more stylish (excluding replacing the electronics). |
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| brianco |
| quote: | Originally posted by Shaun
Well, I'm fortunate to have 2 of these gems. The first SP10 is mounted in a plinth made of plywood and MDF laminations. It's quite solid and I estimate sufficiently massive.
Kaneta replaced the metal chassis and electronics (Kaneta SP10) with alternating solid wood laminations. His final form factor was a conventional square plinth. I want to do something similar, but more stylish (excluding replacing the electronics). |
I also have two of these great TTs. One is fully modded in a late all obsidian plinth. And I am trying to get the seconfd returned to me from London where it is on loan. That one is on a BBC board with all the cuing gear, nasty arm and speed controls mounted alongside the TT proper.
This second TT I will try in a Kaneta plinth, though I will try and follow the external shape of the obsidian plinth. I intend using beech wood block (from the cut-outs for sink and hob from a new kitchen - = free!). But I will transfer the boards from the TT to inside the large PS case which comes with these ex-broadcasting decks. IF this is a really worthwhile exercise there will be an obsidian plinth for sale in the classifieds as I will repeat the exercise with the other deck!
The point of my post is to say that I think that it is very necessary to remove the boards to an external case. This can be joined by a trunk of shielded shielded pairs, all in an external shield grounded at the PS end.
Good luck with your project. |
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| Shaun |
| quote: | Originally posted by brianco
But I will transfer the boards from the TT to inside the large PS case |
What worries me about remote-mounting the driver boards is the EMI created by the motor wires. Perhaps this should be made of heavily screened multi-way cable, but how effective would that be? |
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| brianco |
The boards had already been moved off-board to the PS case when I bought the TT. There is absolutly no hum, and the background noise level is as low as I have ever (not) heard. Certainly MUCH lower than on a previous totally normal SP10 (NOT the "P" version)
This has been achieved by the use of a 12 (each shielded) pair Vanne Damm LC-OFC cable. It is attached to the motor via a tag board and to the PS by a computer plug&socket. The earth shields are taken via a ground rail to a single poit on the motor chassis. I will try to borrow a digital camera and post some pix.
Regarding the plinth, I believe that if you were to run the motor wires to a computer socket at the rear of the plinth you would keep the integrity of the Kaneta design-concept: to leave room for the boards within the plinth would severly compromise that concept and probably all you would have would be a decent heavyweight plinth. When I get to it that is what I intend doing.
Best luck. |
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| Shaun |
| quote: | Originally posted by brianco
Dont Panic!. |
:D ;)
Well, it's good to know that it's been done successfully before. Pics would be nice. What is the approximate length of the interconnecting cable?
Edit:
PS: interference would not be detectable as "hum" (a term usually associated with 100Hz/120Hz audible interference), but rather at whatever frequency that the motor drive signal is running at. |
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