| Nixie |
| On a DIY PCB I've tried using solder legs to connect top to bottom planes, but it takes forever and looks bad, not to mention it prevents the ability to have hidden vias (under surface mount parts). Is there anywhere I can buy vias and a cheap tool to insert them? |
|
|
| Nordic |
| I saw those the other day, you can slap me if can remember right now... wasn't expensive, looks like mini nails we call taxis (often used in upholstery - the big ones) |
|
|
| Nixie |
I hope you can remember...
Were they hollow? |
|
|
| peranders |
I think it looks alright with soldering the legs on both sides.
 |
|
|
| cliffforrest |
See this link
Scroll down to section on "through-plating" - Harwin rivets
making pcbs |
|
|
| MikeBarton |
| quote: | Originally posted by peranders
I think it looks alright with soldering the legs on both sides.
|
Agreed, only problem comes when you have a radial electrolytic cap or similar.
One other option is to have holes and put veropins (or similar) - soldered top & botom - in them.
Mike |
|
|
| Nixie |
| quote: | Originally posted by MikeBarton
Agreed, only problem comes when you have a radial electrolytic cap or similar. |
I use a lot of such components, including trimmers, and have plenty of holes under surface mount parts where veropins or anything like that is unacceptable, since it has to be flush with the board. |
|
|
| Nixie |
| quote: | Originally posted by cliffforrest
Harwin rivets |
These stick out from the board, so I can't use them for the same reason as pins etc.
I'd be more interested in the Copperset stuff he describes, but Digikey lists it as discontinued, and I couldn't figure out proper search terms for this type of thing as the naming he used, 'bail bars', didn't bring much relevant results. There are also copper rivets shown, but the only rivets I find at Allied or Digikey or Mouser or Newark are mounting ones, not PCB prototyping ones. Where the hell can I buy either of these? |
|
|
| peranders |
| quote: | Originally posted by MikeBarton
Agreed, only problem comes when you have a radial electrolytic cap or similar.
One other option is to have holes and put veropins (or similar) - soldered top & botom - in them.
|
What you don't see in my picture above is how I have done with the electrolytic caps. I have drilled a hole beside the "real" hole. In this little hole I have soldered a wire on both sides. You can also put a very thin wire in the same hole as for the part. Start to solder on both sides without filling the hole with tin.
Nixie, what are you trying to do? You could do as I have done, put tape on one side and etch the other as usual. As you see I have drilled all holes which not are connected to the groundplane. |
|
|
| Nixie |
| quote: | Originally posted by peranders
[Nixie, what are you trying to do? |
I want thru-hole connections that are flush with the board surface and easy to add. Pins/wires/part legs fail on both accounts. |
|
|
| MikeBarton |
| quote: | Originally posted by Nixie
Actually, I'd be more interested in the Copperset stuff he describes, but Digikey lists it as discontinued, and I couldn't figure out proper search terms for this type of thing as the naming he used, 'bail bars', didn't bring much relevant results. |
Agreed, cliff updated his post with the link after I posted.....
I see that RS do stock the rivets here (in the UK) - part No's 160-3672 and 160-3688.
Price is GBP 8 (USD 16) for 100
Mike |
|
|
| Nixie |
| quote: | Originally posted by MikeBarton
I see that RS do stock the rivets here (in the UK) |
I can't afford transatlantic shipping charges. |
|
|
| Nordic |
get yourself a small metal file... I use this even for normal solder spots to make them nice, flat round and smooth.
You could order from RS in the states using those same part no's |
|
|
| peranders |
| quote: | Originally posted by Nixie
I want thru-hole connections that are flush with the board surface and easy to add. Pins/wires/part legs fail on both accounts. |
You haven't considered to let Olimex make a board for you?
www.olimex.com |
|
|
| SY |
| :cop: Nixie, although you might be Bulgarian yourself (I can't remember exactly), this sort of comment is inappropriate and unacceptable. |
|
|
| Nixie |
| I don't see how electroplating is workable, considering that you'd have to make an electrical connection to all conductive-ink-painted holes to make them into electrodes. |
|
|
| cliff |
| quote: | Originally posted by Nixie
I don't see how electroplating is workable, considering that you'd have to make an electrical connection to all conductive-ink-painted holes to make them into electrodes. |
It is done after drilling but before solder mask and etch.
ie all holes are sorted on either side by the copper. |
|
|
| Nixie |
Ah, right.
Too bad the price is crazy. |
|
|
|
