Audio Project Amplifier Speaker Loudspeaker Kit
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New build of Aleph X amplifier - Click HERE for Original Thread
t3447ml
For your consideration, my Aleph X mono blocks built to G. Rollins original design, 15V rails, 4A total bias, 4IRFP044 devices per channel. I would like to thank Grey Rollins for the design, Nelson Pass for the concept and Carondimonio (Bruno) for the boards.
t3447ml
Front Panel
hc167
look nice, did you make your own chassis or you purchase somehwere else? and where did you purchase it?
t3447ml
Rear Panel
moe29
does it run cool enough? heat sinks look a bit small.

The build quality looks excellent though :)
CJ900RR
Nice looking :clown:

What is the power in watt in 8 and 4 omhs from the original schematic?
t3447ml
The chassis is a Bud 17x12x3 from Digi Key. The sides have been cut off to mount the heat sinks.

The output power, when calculated using wuffwaff's AXE 1.2 spreadsheet, at 4amps bias into 8 ohms is 42 watts and into 4 ohms is 26 watts.

Moe29 you are correct this unit does run too hot. After about 1 hour I can still hold my hand on the heatsinks, after another half hour the heatsinks are too hot to touch.

The amplifiers are driving back loaded Fostex 108EZ horns rated at 24 watts. At my listening levels the volume control on my Aleph P1.7 64 step relay attenuator is set about step 25.

My next step will be to rework the unit to 2.5 amps bias, again from the spreadsheet this comes out to 21 watts into 8 ohms. This should cut the power dissipation for each channel from 148 to 92 watts.
hc167
t3447ml:

do you mind to give me the part number of the chassis from digikey? thanks a lot.
dw8083
Hi t3447ml,

I built an Aleph30 earlier this year that consumes 100 watts of power per channel. It has one 151x350mm heatsink per channel. After about 2 hours the heatsinks still pass the 5 second touch test. I've run the amp for as long as 6 hours on a warm summer day and the amp still passed the touch test.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...&threadid=70622

You may need larger heatsinks even with the reduced power.

Something to consider.

-David
t3447ml
hc 167, the Digi Key PN# for the chassis is 377-1025ND
hc167
t3447ml:

the chassis look like too. do you need to purchase the bottom plate also? one more question, since you have external heatsink. and the size of the chassis is 17x12x3, so you have the 2.5" heatsink on each side of the chassis? where did you get the heatsink? digikey again? if yes, again, what is the part number? and did you get the front plate from digikey also? thanks a lot. I guess I have asked too many questions.
t3447ml
hc167, regarding to many questions, to the contrary please ask your questions that is why I posted this project.
The Bud chassis is mounted with the large open end up. The top plate is a piece of perforated metal I was fortunate enough to find at a scrap yard.
The front panel is a piece of 1/8 inch annodized aluminum, also from the scrap yard.
The heatsinks are Conrad MF30-75, they are a beautiful piece of work, however I would take dw8083 suggestion and go larger.
When mounting the heatsinks, the 17" length of the chassis was cut on both ends and the heatsinks attached.

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