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Powering a car stereo head unit at home! - Click HERE for Original Thread
harmi11
Hi guys, got a question for you. I recently discovered my dad's old car stereo and its in working order. Panasonic H07MKII i think, but anyway since I dont have a car and I want to use this in my room, I thought about several ways of powering it but none have seemed rational. I kinda wanna know if its at all possible? and what would be the easiest way?

I like the portability of the car stereo and it doesnt sound too bad either (when it was in the car!) I dont want to blow my neighbours away or anything, just want to connect my 4ohm speakers to it and enjoy music in my room!!!

If you can help I would be really grateful!!

BTW: ALL the wires are cut at the back and I've identified the speaker wires but there's 3 other wires, RED, BLACK & BLUE. I'm not sure which ones are the power ones, any advice would be great! Thanks

Thanks

Harminder
richie00boy
Red = power +12V
Black = power 0V earth
Blue = output to drive remote electric aerial (i.e. just ignore and make sure it doesn't short out to anything)

As for powering the unit, best best is find a surplus transformer with a 10 volt winding rated at 6 amps at least, and add a rectifier and big fat smoothing cap, 15000uF at least.
30bandgeek
if you are feeling a bit ghetto.
You could get a motorcycle 12v battery. and wire a small 12vdc transformer in parrellel to it to keep it charged. that shoud do the job.

what i mean bu transformer is just cut the end off a old nintendo power supply or equivlent. those put out about 3A that will power the deck easly and the small motercycle battery as a big buffer for power pull larger than the amperage arting.

if you are feeling cool you could get a SPDT relay and wire the transformer to the relay and have the remote turn on as a trigger to start charging the battery olny when the deck is turned on...

it is ghetto..but it will be safe and work...
space
I would opt for a PC PSU. Even older PSU's deliver 8A or more at 12V witch should suite your needs fine. If you are going with batteries remeber to get a closed cell variant that doesn't produce nasty gasses when charging.

space
Jexx
PC PSU's have a dirty output due to lack of sufficient caps, not to mention their fairly poor quality and lack of decent cooling...

I highly recommend a regulated 12V power supply. Best ones I've found for the price are Astron and Tenma.

All you would have to do is hook up the yellow battery positive(+) of the head unit to the positive (+) terminal of the power supply and the black ground(-) of the head unit to the negative(-) terminal of the power supply. Hook up the red ignition (+) of the head unit to the (+) of the power supply, but be sure there is a switch there to turn it on and off as a car does (if you leave the power supply on, since constant power is being provided to the battery positive, you won't lose your settings).
harmi11
Thanks everyone for posting your answers, I think I'd wanna go for the 12V power supply, but I want to know in particular which ones can output 12v 5A which is what the head unit asks for. And if I was to use a PC PSU, how would I switch it on without it being connected to a motherboard since the huge connector isnt connected to anything and I couldnt get it to start. Thanks for your help!!

Harminder

I have attached a picture of the head unit. It is of the wires, speaker wires separate and power etc wires separate.

:)
lndm
The older AT power supplies have a hard start (switch) rather than the soft start of the ATX supply. You'll find these in Pentiums and earlier.
indoubt
I've used an old AT PC powersupply to power a car head unit. I didn't expect too much of the sound quality because of the switching noise etc. but it worked remarkably well. Not as good as a regular linear powersupply though.

The older PC powersupplies need to see sufficient "load" so I put a resistor (cheap 17w wirewound) on the 5 volt load to prevent ot from switching of.

I also put a 25V 10000uF cap on the 12V to try to get rid of some of the ripple. Maybe it improved the sound, i did not listen critically before these mods which I made directly from the start.
dangus
Most computer UPS units (uninteruptible power supply) under 1000 VA rating have a sealed lead-acid 12 volt battery inside, plus a charger.
Jexx
A 12v DC @5A regulated power supply would be much cheaper and much easier to use than a computer power supply.

Example:

http://i6.ebayimg.com/06/i/08/d7/28/55_1_sbl.JPG

http://i17.ebayimg.com/04/i/08/d4/cc/aa_1_sbl.JPG

It has the positive and negative terminals on the back.

Some have nice binding posts and clip terminals:

http://i13.ebayimg.com/01/i/08/dc/25/27_1_b.JPG

The previous examples put out 20A and 35A. And they were very cheap when I searched them on ebay, and they can certainly be used in place of a 5A power supply. Ebay would be the best place to get one, too, I just hope they would be willing to ship to where you live (which I believe is outside the US...).
space
I would say allmost all would be able to get hold of old/used PC PSU's for free...
It may be true that SQ might be and issue in a "higher grade" setup, but this does not seem to be such a setup imho.

space
Jexx
A regulated power supply is leaps and bounds better than a PC power supply, you really have to own one to know the difference. But in this case, I agree, it doesn't matter too much considering it's not that nice of a setup anyway.

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