| Bgt |
| Just build the amp. in a housing. Still busy investigating why the crosstalk is so bad, 55Db@15khz. It is the same housing used for an UCD amp. and I had no probs there with crosstalk. Same PSU, protection pcb and wiring layout..well almost. Will post a pic later. |
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| t. |
| Look forward to reading what you think Bert when its up and running:) |
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| Bgt |
After routing the wires a bit different the crosstalk is much better(I am still busy finding out the crosstalk dependency of wiring layout). Tested the amp. with music and the sound is very nice.
Will do an A/B test later. Also found out that when using an output relay you have to put a resitor over the relay contacts otherwise it wont switch on. If it does not see a load there is some offset, 1.8V, which stops the relay from closing. Input impedance is a bit on the low side, 10k, it works with a passive pre but att. the volume a bit. Will keep you informed. |
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| Pierre |
Hello, _another user of coldamp_ !
I found a similar issue with starting. I asked them and told me that there is a slight offset when you start with no load (that's something not very recommendable with any Class-D amp, specially if you inject signal, anyway)
In your case, presumably that small 1.8V (no load) offset is detected by your DC protection circuit and, as you have your relays after the output (correct me if I'm wrong), it won't never switch on properly. They told me to add a 1K-2K resistor in parallel to avoid any problems, also in bridge mode setup (that is on the app.notes, I think).
So that seems to be not an issue at all.
Nor the input impedance, I think that it is even good in order to reduce noise and anyway almost every pre-amp (even passive) can drive it with no problems. I have used it even directly connected to my CD player.
I didn't have any problems with crosstalk, and I must say that I like the sound of my coldamps veeery much. What kind of speakers are you using, Bgt?
BTW: are they being so helpful as they were with me? I think that support is simply excellent.
Best regards,
Pierre |
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| Bgt |
Pierre,
The relay is after the output, but it works. Speakers are Driade, the hex shaped towers...well actually more like pillars. The sound is nice, no doubt about it...but different. It is fuller in a way, sounds very powerfull. The UCD is leaner.
Sergio from coldamp is very helpfull.
Pierre, maybe you dont have a crosstalk issue because you perhaps use 2 monoblocs. I use 1 transformer driving 2 rectifier circuits, 1 for every amp. For me it is of utmost importance to have a low crosstalk value and a small amp. Don't like big cases. Low crosstalk gives space/direction/subtlety to the music(if recorded properly). |
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| Pierre |
Well, in fact I use a single supply.
Sorry, I don't know that speakers. What is the exact model (it's just that you have awake my curiosity ;-))
Just didn't pay attention to the crosstalk problem because it is totally unnoticeable while listening to music. It is more a purist issue, isn't it?
However, keep us updated on how it goes with your experimentation.
Do you have any other measures?
They told me that they were preparing a custom access for users with forum for direct technical support. I don't know if it is ready by now, they promised to give me a username and password.
Best regards,
Pierre |
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| Bgt |
they already have a service forum. Got a username and password. And having low crosstalk values is normal I think. If there is high freq. crosstalk the sound becomes dull, borring. And how I love good sounding amps. so the music can make you feel very comfortable/emotional(if recorded properly). You get spoiled by beautifull sound...well........more addicted.
This is the only pic. of the speaker I could find. :xeye: |
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| Pierre |
| Where are the speakers? I can't see any speakers? ;) |
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| SY |
:captain:
I hated to pull that pic, but.... |
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| Pierre |
:bigeyes: Wow! Bgt, I have also received an username and password: I am now able to communicacte with them directly at a secure personal page, with forums directly attended by technical support. They also offer a folder where we (users) will be able to see the latest documents.
Great value, I think. I hadn't seen something like this before from a supplier. |
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| Pierre |
Hello, Bgt.
Any news with your tests of the coldamp modules?
From my side, I have done some testing in bridge mode, getting 800W of clean power out of them! As the load, I used a couple of 2x15" JBL towers in series, for a total of 8 ohm nominal. It's incredible to see how such tiny modules can drive that beasts so loud!
I have just decided to buy another one for my home subwoofer. (I got more motivated when I saw the new ESP article):
http://sound.westhost.com/project116.htm |
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| phase_accurate |
Salut Pierre
Did you listen to them on hifi speakers at moderate levels as well ? How did they sound ?
Regards
Charles |
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| Pierre |
Yes, in fact I got two for home and two for "PA" use.
The ones at home sound simply excellent to me. (In fact I have stopped my own DIY class-D developments for a while and I am planning to purchase some more for a multichannel 5.1 setup :)
The other two that I have are intended for more abusive use with my JBL loudspeakers at open air parties. |
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| Bgt |
Pierre, I am redoing the housing with the coldamps. Still not satisfied with the crosstalk. When listening to them they sound really nice. They seem to have more bass, lowend. They have a full sound. When switching to the UCD's...they are different. Maybe you can describe it as a bit thinner, leaner....but excellent quality.
When you look at the pcb you'll see the 5532's and they are cap.coupled. Have to try another opamp. I guess. First get rid of the crosstalk. Ahhh...there are always so many things that influence the sound. |
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| Bgt |
OK, redid the housing and the problem was still there but less.
This is the latest housing I use.
First 1 was much smaller.
Well, to solve the crosstalk I had to add a ground wire from the coldamp to the - of the speaker terminal. Originally the - is taken from the 0V at the PSU PCB as you will see in the recommended wiring diagram of coldamp.
Twisting the wires is a necessity with the coldamps. The power supply lines have a lot of high frequency EMI on them. The crosstalk decreased about 40Db @ 15khz. Still not finished, some missing parts for the housing. Will keep you updated.
Here you see the extra groundwire. |
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| edl |
Dear Bgt,
Congrats on your work. Looks nice!
I've got a small question: where can I buy these 10000uF Philips caps?
Thanks, regards, |
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| Bgt |
just testing the coldamp against the UCD400 and in doing an direct A-B switching test I must say it sounds really nice.
Find it difficult to hear any difference. Well...still a lot of tests to do. |
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| edl |
Hi,
A lot a thanks for your kind answer, I checked your link!
All the best for you,
Edl |
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| Pierre |
Thanks, Bgt, for sharing your tests and experiences...
To summarize: in your setup, did you say that you got better results by taking the - output to the speaker from the module GND? It is true that they recommend to take it from the PSU GND. In fact I didn't observe any problems by doing that, but who knows!
You speak about 40dB less of crosstalk at 15KHz. At first you spoke about -55dB, does that mean that you now have -95dB of crosstalk at that frequency? What change did make the biggest difference, twisting the PSU lines togegher or taking the output - from the module GND?
My small contribution: just in case you want to know, I observed that the background noise was (even) smaller when I tied both input GNDs with a small thick wire at the RCAs. Now you have to literally glue your ear to the tweeters to hear something with no signal. |
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| Bgt |
Hi Pierre,
Yes, the best move was putting the - wire from the speaker output to the gnd pin on the amps pcb. BUT you have to twist the wires otherwise it is still not 100%. The problem is the EMI which is induced in the speaker lines and causes this crosstalk. The UCD's have very clean power lines so there are less problems with the wiring layout.
The total crosstalk is some 90Db@15Khz(still a bit dependant of wire routing).
About connecting the input grounds(on the RCA's) at the rear end of the housing, I use 2 100nf caps. to ground, 1 on each RCA ground to chassis.
My input wire has the same wiring connection as on the UCD inputs so on the connector at the amps PCB I connect a 10 ohm resistor in series with the ground and connect the - input directly to the wire ground. I use starpoint grounding at the PSU and this is the only real groundpoint. I know a lot of people disagree but this still is the best option for me with a single transformer powered double psu. |
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| Pierre |
Bgt,
Let's see if I have understood ok:
You route only 2 wires from the amp to the RCA's, signal and GND? And you shortcircuit inverting input and GND _at the amplifier_. Then you run the GND to the RCA with 10 ohm in series?
If so, why did you chose that way instead of routing the three wires and shorting inv.input and GND AT the connector? (that supposedly helps removing the common mode noise pickup along the cable)
And at the RCAs, you put a 100nF cap from GND to chassis, one at each RCA, or do you do something more?
BTW: Have you measured crosstalk at other frequencies? Is that (15KHz) the worst case?
Thanks for sharing with us your fine-tunes! |
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| Bgt |
| quote: | Originally posted by Pierre
Bgt,
You route only 2 wires from the amp to the RCA's, signal and GND? And you shortcircuit inverting input and GND _at the amplifier_. Then you run the GND to the RCA with 10 ohm in series?
If so, why did you chose that way instead of routing the three wires and shorting inv.input and GND AT the connector? (that supposedly helps removing the common mode noise pickup along the cable)
And at the RCAs, you put a 100nF cap from GND to chassis, one at each RCA, or do you do something more?
BTW: Have you measured crosstalk at other frequencies? Is that (15KHz) the worst case? |
Pierre, you're right about the way I did the input wire.
I've found out with the UCD's that if you ground the - at the RCA you have much more EMI pickup on the - lead/input. Connecting the - to ground at the amps input connector is much cleaner. You than dispose of the - input at the beginning of the amp.
Don't forget, this is the case in my setup where I use a star ground system at the PSU's 0V.
the 100nf's are connected as you described correctly.
the 15Khz measurement is just an average value.
At lower frequencies there is no crosstalk, well not measurable(is in the noise level) and at 20Khz it is a bit worse.
Don't forget that I always want the cleanest, least crosstalk signal and when touching/moving the cable tree in the housing my signal stays clean/undisturbed. If thats the case than I know I have a reasonable stable system and 1 that is not too sensitive to oscillate/disturbance at a possibly changing EMI field inside the housing.
After all is stable I start listening to the system.
PS it almost has no background hiss, it is a very quiet amp. Quieter than the Tripaths.
Just did an A-B switching test, the UCD's are dead quiet, just no hiss at all. My head was with my ear on the tweeter. |
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| Pierre |
OK, Bgt. Thanks for the clarifications.
I have also been surprised about the incredibly low noise of the Coldamps.
We are all waiting for the rest of your measurements.
Best regards,
Pierre |
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| Bgt |
redoing the coldamp also.
A pic later this week
PS Matjans, you really did put me to work on the amps;) |
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| Bgt |
redone amp.
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| dgm |
I have just finished building a new 4 channel Coldamp amp with the SPS80.
I am biamplifying my Energy Audissey 5+2 speakers. The Coldamp system replaces a 20 year old Yamaha M70 200wpc power amp.
I have incorporated as many of the suggestions on the application notes as I felt possible and have also included the Coldamp supplied filter chokes on all the + and - power lines to the modules(which havent been on any of the photos Ive seen to date).
Initial impressions:
absolutely silent. There is only a very faint crackle 2seconds after switching on.(almost inaudible)
There is no hint of whistles etc. I am not using the clock synchronisation capability.
Sound quality is absolutely amazing - powerful, dynamic and really clear. There is such a huge difference between this and the old amp. Theres certainly nothing I can comment on about anything lacking. It is just so good.
The amp actually gets quite warm (hot?). I left it turned on for a few hours with no signal and it was hot under the modules where attached to the steel chassis. Although cabinet has vents on top it hs no vents at bottom to allow air to be drawn in. Ill adjust this during next mods. SMPS side stays cool.
Photo of the wiring posted below. Unfortunately I tried to do everything I read - use as heavy wire as possible, twist all leads together, attach the chokes in series on each power lead close to the modules. These are incompatible with neat wiring though it could be better. Any advice on the criticality of all of these would be appreciated. The wiring is oversized x 2(10A). How critical is all of the twisting? How critical are the chokes. They are rated at 7A and have wire hair thin. I had to strap them to some insulation and encase in heat shrink to stop them being bent. Since theres no noise and no whistles it certainly works but not too professional looking at this iteration. (It is however my first electronics project)
Good support from Coldamp. There are some clarifications needed in the manual that were resolved quickly. would appreciate feedback from others on the above issues.
Cheers,
Derick |
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| Bgt |
Hi Derick,
Your amp. looks nice. My amps. are also not the finest looking wire wise. Thick wires are difficult for the looks. Anyway........its the sound and soundstage that matters. I dont use the inductors yet as they have no influence in my setup. With a SMPS it will be more usefull. I measured my amp. with a scope and it is absolutely an awsome amp. Crosstalk at 15khz is <100Db which is OK. No hiss,humm,clicks,rattles,startup/shut down bumps. Just dead,dead silent. Twisting speaker and psu wires is always OK. My amps don't use the sync. option also.
There is not 1 whistle and EMI is very low. It is situated 30cm from my FM tuner. No problem. I do use an inrush current limiter for the toroid and a speaker prot. unit. Wiring is done as follows:
http://www.grotel.nl/photo/wiring%2...0d%20stereo.jpg
Bert |
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| noah katz |
"There is such a huge difference between this and the old amp."
Did you switch from passive to active XO's at the same time? |
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| dgm |
With the new amp I tried it initially in 2 channel (ie just swapped it in) then removed the jumbers on the speakers between the LF and HF side and ran 4 channels. Thus the answer is no it is not active. Subwoofer is crossed over before the poweramp though.
The simple 2 channel arrangement was also a significant improvement though I did not get the chance to sit down and listen to enough tracks to really give a valid judgement or comparison between 2 channel and 4 channel. Ill do this on the weekend as its easy to switch from 4 to 2 channel now.
Derick |
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| ssanmor |
Hello, Derick, Bert.
Nice to hear your impressions about our modules. In fact, we are getting a lot of interest in the supplies but I must admit that we are much more proud of our amplifiers, a product we have invested a lot of development and fine-tuning time into ;)
The heat dissipation is normal: the modules dissipate only 10W aprox at +/-60V, very similar to other modules out there with similar power capability. So in a 4 ch system you have an idle consumption of around 40W, enough to make the chassis hot.
This dissipation can be reduced by feeding the driver stage with a separate 12V suppy (referred to -VSS!!!, so the SPS80 aux +12V supply can be used for this as long as aux GND is NOT connected to power GND but to -VSS) and/or feeding the modulator with +/-12V supplies (although this doesn't worth the pain in terms of dissipation reduction). See app.notes for more details about this.
Please make sure that the mounting holes of the modules (and SPS80) are scrap free so the thermal contact is optimum. Don't forget to add a _SMALL_ layer of themal compound (I must insist: small).
Nice chassis, by the way!
Have a look at this 6ch 1U rack we have just custom-made for a client (yes, we can also design custom cases as we have laser cutting capabilities): |
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| ssanmor |
| Now the outside... |
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| ssanmor |
| and the front panel... |
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| mahirerensan |
| Coldamp is very expensive.It s becoming cheap if I do myself |
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| ssanmor |
Expensive?
Have you had a look at our pricelist? The modules have a price very similar or cheaper than our competition while offering more features. The supply cost much less than a comparable size toroidal transformer + caps, diodes, etc. with much higher performance and lower price... |
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| mahirerensan |
yes expensive for me.because The wage of the workers very low in Turkey (the like me).For example;I taking the wage 300euro for one mounth.
I hope , you don't laugh:( |
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| ssanmor |
Now I understand you, I just was speaking relatively to our competitors.
And I don't laugh at all, in fact I have just been a week in Turkey, arrived at Spain last night. I have seen incredible things there but also a lot of poverty. A country of contrasts! |
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| mahirerensan |
| I'm working doing classD module.I use IR2113 and max4295.Now,I'm waiting.Because I could not find T106-2 toroid in Turkey.Can I take quality sound from this circuit.Can you give idea me please. |
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| dgm |
| quote: | Originally posted by ssanmor
Hello, Derick, Bert.
Nice to hear your impressions about our modules. In fact, we are getting a lot of interest in the supplies but I must admit that we are much more proud of our amplifiers, a product we have invested a lot of development and fine-tuning time into ;)
The heat dissipation is normal: the modules dissipate only 10W aprox at +/-60V, very similar to other modules out there with similar power capability. So in a 4 ch system you have an idle consumption of around 40W, enough to make the chassis hot.
This dissipation can be reduced by feeding the driver stage with a separate 12V suppy (referred to -VSS!!!, so the SPS80 aux +12V supply can be used for this as long as aux GND is NOT connected to power GND but to -VSS) and/or feeding the modulator with +/-12V supplies (although this doesn't worth the pain in terms of dissipation reduction). See app.notes for more details about this.
Please make sure that the mounting holes of the modules (and SPS80) are scrap free so the thermal contact is optimum. Don't forget to add a _SMALL_ layer of themal compound (I must insist: small).
Nice chassis, by the way!
Have a look at this 6ch 1U rack we have just custom-made for a client (yes, we can also design custom cases as we have laser cutting capabilities): |
Sergio,
Thanks for posting the pics. Can you give a couple of clarifications to the above.
1 The 4078 module datasheet says the driver needs +15V to +25V external supply. SPS80 aux is +12 V. Can 12V be used (as you indicate in your posting)?
2 The aux supply is rated for 12 V, 500mA (6W). Is this sufficient to drive the gates on 4 modules. (replacing onboard supplies currently drawing 40W) What current does the gate driver draw?
3 If the aux supply is connected and activated by removing the solder link, will both the gate driver and the modulator be powered externally or does this just repower the gate driver.
4 On the photos you have posted for the 6 channel unit, I cant see the HF chokes on the + and - power leads. Are they there and hidden? If so how were they mounted? If not, are they really needed? Is it just inaudible RF that is supressed or does this affect channel separation?
5 I notice that none of your wires are twisted. How important is the wire twisting?
By the way, theres definitely a market for good cases at the right price. I bought mine for AUD65 from Altronics but had to cut off the rack ears. Maybe up to AUD 100 for one with a thick aluminium base and some of the holes for connectors, terminals, switchetc precut.
Thanks,
Derick |
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| ssanmor |
The general rule is to twist the wires and add the HF chokes, they do help reducing coupled audible noise (although it is in any case very low). Some configurations show quite a low noise levels even without the chokes.
For the shake of consistency, we recommend to add the chokes for every module and, if possible, twist the three wires (+VCC, -VSS and GND) using not very thick wire (flexible 1.5mm2 cable is ok).
For bass applications, for example, no need for chokes as the remaining noise is mainly high pitched.
12V for the driver from the SPS80 PSU is at the border, we recommend a bit more voltage but that is ok. You only have to remove the driver solder blob, then connect the aux. GND to -VSS and aux +12V to "Vdriver" pad at the BP4078 board. The modulator remains self-powered.
Yes, the SPS80 will power 4 driver stages happily, but note that this lowers around 3-3.5W from each module, totalling 12-14W less of heat.
It is not possible to feed both the modulator and driver stages with only the +/-12V aux. supply from SPS80, as the driver's is not referenced to GND.
About the cases, we plan to offer them pre-mechanized in several formats, as well as with the packs and ready-assembled for those lazy enough ;-) |
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| noah katz |
Sergio,
Beautiful work on that 6-ch unit!
My I inquire as to what it cost?
Thanks |
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| ssanmor |
It is a custom-made rack with reduced supplies (+/-42V) so 200W per channel. Higher power would require a second fan for forced cooling.
The cost would be the same, but our customer simply doesn't need too much power.
That version, with 3 SPS80 + 6 BP4078, assembled and finished, costs around 1350 euro. We plan to offer simpler versions (2 SPS80+4BP4078 for 4x400W/2x800W, for example).
Glad that you liked it. |
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| ssanmor |
Mahirerensan,
You are not likely going to achieve very good results using the MAX4295 chip, I myself started to design an amplifier based on it around 3 years ago, but realized that the figures weren't too good and that it limits duty cycle to 80%, so you can get rail-to-rail output, thus limiting output power for a given rail voltage to around 65-70% of what you would get with your own discrete modulator.
I encourage you to build the modulator yourself. Using IR2113 chip is ok, you can get good results with it, just pay a lot of attention to its layout.
Good luck! |
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| ssanmor |
Here you are some clarifications about wiring that are perhaps not clear enough in the datasheets and may seem inconsistent with the photos you can see at our webpage. We'll update the datasheets asap.
There is no need for ultra-thick wire for the +VCC, GND and -VSS supplies of the modules. In fact, 1.5mm2 or so flexible wires with reasonable lenght (15 to 25cm aprox) can be easily routed for a tidy cabling, and can also be twisted together, giving very good results.
The same applies for speaker wires. Use the GND and SPK fastons in the BP4078 module, it provides consistently better results than wiring speaker return to the PSU, as suggested by ESP.
Although noise is not normally an issue, we are sending HF chokes with each order just in case. It does no harm to add them in series with +VCC and -VSS lines of -each- module and can solve small coupled whistles in some rare cases. The photos dgm has sent show a very clever way to mount them: put a small plastic bar at their side for increased mechanical strength, and surround all with heatshrink tube for isolation.
Please take advantage of all the features in the modules. For example, the shutdown input and clipping indicator that will keep you informed of when you are pushing the amp to its limit. Adding a LED (remember the 1K2 resistor in series) with the protect output is also very informative.
Remember that there is also an onboard thermistor that can be easily used for an external simple temperature control / fan driver. (see app.notes) |
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| classd4sure |
| quote: | | There is no need for ultra-thick wire for the +VCC, GND and -VSS supplies of the modules. In fact, 1.5mm2 or so flexible wires with reasonable lenght (15 to 25cm aprox) can be easily routed for a tidy cabling, and can also be twisted together, giving very good results. |
Would going bigger be a disadvantage on a sonic level or just pointless .... swamped by parasitics etc.
Kind of curious because I'm re-wiring my supply and I wanted to double up all the wire as an act of extreme overkill, just to see, for kicks, but if I do it that way I won't have enough wire to finish the job!
I've been looking it up though and the consensus seems to be to not use bigger than you have to. |
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| zilog |
| quote: | Originally posted by mahirerensan
I'm working doing classD module.I use IR2113 and max4295.Now,I'm waiting.Because I could not find T106-2 toroid in Turkey.Can I take quality sound from this circuit.Can you give idea me please. |
I might be wrong here, but I think you can achieve low distortion by using gapped ferrite for output filter inductor (I plan on doing so in my next UcD), maybe you can search the forum for the answer. |
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| ssanmor |
Returning to the wiring subject...
In fact, at the start we always used and recommended thick wire, but we have lead to the conclusion that it is pointless, and very uncomfortable to handle, provided that the section is still reasonable. As I said, 1.5mm2 (similar to the typical computer cables from the PSU used to power hard-disks, etc) ;-) is quite adequate even for very high power levels. |
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| KeithC |
Single or multi-core?
I was going to use 2.5mm single core mains. |
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| ssanmor |
When you say mains are you refering to the 230VAC input? If so, that's too much and you will run into difficulties when trying to screw them into the SPS80 terminals. 1-1.5mm2 (single or multicore) is enough.
For the +/-60V connections, I would use thinner (around 1 to 1.5 mm2 wire section) and multicore (flexible) wire for easier assembly.
Keep us updated! |
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| KeithC |
Sorry, I meant for connecting DC between modules using the type of mains cable used for domestic wiring - remove the outer covering, insulate the earth, twist all three conductors together.
At the present time I have 300mm sections of IEC mains cable between the SPS80 & BP4078s.
When are the cases likely to be available? You just can't get anything worth having here in the UK nowadays. |
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| ssanmor |
Ah, ok. That wires can be ok.
About the cases, first we plan to offer a couple of models of cases (19" 1U and non-standard, see below) readily mechanized for accomodating BP4078's and SPS80/30 and all the input/output connectors (XLR / Speakon), as well as signalling LEDs at the front.
Here is a photo of another very succesful model: It is a 2x400W/4ohm or 1x1000W/4ohm amplifier (based on SPS80+2xBP4078 r2). Tested in many open-air parties, etc, has shown great reliability and sound quality.
These photos show a pool with 3 of these amplifiers: The first one moved 2 2x15" Yamaha loudspeakers in stereo setup, the second one moved 2 2x15" JBL loudspeakers in stereo, and the last one was bridged and moved a 4 ohm _BIG_ PA subwoofer. Total: >2600W in a very reduced space.
They have turn-on and clip/protect indicators for each channel, although they were off at the time of the photo, that's why you can't see them. |
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| ssanmor |
| A rear view... We love Speakon connectors, they are much more professional than binding posts, etc. |
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| sx881663 |
Ssanmor,
Speakon connectors work well and do save panel space but are awkward for customers to use. You should consider offering an adapter from Speakon to 5way binding posts as an option.
If you like Speakons you would love the Powercons! They are a dramatic improvement over the standard IEC. This is why I specified them for Audience. They have the same disadvantage as the Speakons in that the customer would need to change his power cord end or buy a cord from someone who makes a Powercon terminated one. For me the advantages far outweigh the disadvantages.
Audience uses this connector on its flagship power conditioner for good reason, it is better! Of course they also supply the matching power cord. I feel so strongly about this that I am committed to using all Powercon connectors on Audience equiptment.
Sorry if this sounds like an ad for Audience but I do feel strongly about the advantages of the Powercon. They are becoming more accepted and more available all the time. I would like to see an end to power cords falling out of their sockets!
Roger |
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| noah katz |
"Speakon connectors work well and do save panel space but are awkward for customers to use."
How so? I was just about to order some for my new L/C/R speaker project.
Thanks |
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| sx881663 |
Sorry if I gave the wrong impression of them. I too love them, it is just that the customer will have to remove what ever ends his cables currently have to reterminate with the speakons. Well worth it for me but this is a bit much for the average customer.
I would also suggest soldering the cables in after the screws are tightened to insure the connection won't deteriorate over time.
Roger |
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| noah katz |
I see, thanks.
My speakers will be in the wall so the extra work is worth not having to worry about the connections getting loose. |
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| Bgt |
just redid my 2 Coldamp modules. They now feature the LM4562 at the input.
Also the caps at the inputs are bypassed(shortcut). All the 100uF/25V are replaced with rubycon ZL's like the 220uF/25V are.
Sound is very nice.........warm...........less loud...more subtle.
How I love these small differences. |
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| tyee |
| I have 3 amp modules and an SPS80 just waiting to be built when I have the time. Can't wait to hear it!! |
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| Bgt |
| just did a test where I use a direct A/B switching on 2 stereo poweramps and found the mod of the 1 with the 4562 to give more 3D=depth than the 1 with the 5532. The latter is less stereo/wide than the 4562. The voice has more space with the 4562 chip. You need good speakers though to hear the sound widening with the 4562's. |
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