| v1d9uy |
ok so i was really really into car audio ... till all my **** got stolen....so now im going home audio but i still love the bass. i dont know how many of you have had a really nice car audio system so maybe only a few of you will understand but i have heard some very expensive hometheater subs .. and they just dont compare to the system that i had in my car i had 2 x 12 inch dual alpine type R subs they had something like 2500 rms on them i had them ran with a MTX 1ooo D mono block amp i had 0 gauge welding wire as power wire had the amp running at 1 ohm they hit hard and low and sounded great they hit 152 db in my corvette and 147 db in my full size bronco now they arent the loudest subs out there my friend had the same amp but he was useing some square kicker solo barics 12 incher 2 of them and he was always louder and hit harder .. but they sounded really really bad ots like there was off ... and then 155 db ... and thats. it just sounded bad ... he later got 2 alpines lol but anyways anyone of you that have heard nice car audio subs ... and hometheater subs know that its like a diff type off bass ... to me it just sounds really diff. is there anyway to get car audio " like " bass in my home.
i could feel those kicker solo barics in my cheast they hurt they hit so hard now im not asking for that ... but something close :) |
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| Destroyer OS. |
Yeah and I power my Tangband 871's with 8000 watts!
Are you just playing a joke or? |
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| v1d9uy |
ok i have no idea what those subs are ... im no hometheater god
i was kinda drunk but i am not playing a joke ... i have never ever heard subs in a house that hit as hard and/or sounded as good as the subs in some of my systems in my car and other car audio systems i have heard .. granted i did only have about 3k into my subs/ box and amp/wireing and another 3k in componants/deck/ and componant amp so i had 6k in all and im sure that "8000" watt amp yer useing was very $$$$$ not saying thats bad ... and im not saying iv listened to the best hometheater systems out there im just saying i havent heard anything that compares before .... and was kinda wondering if anyone else had. |
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| ruerose |
The biggest problem is that your average living room is a MUCH larger volume than your car/truck cab, and is FAAAAAR less sealed (think doorways). Therefore, pressurizing a living room to SPL competition volume levels requires PA sized sub bins and a hell of a lot more wattage than your average 2x12 car audio system.
If you want that loud, look at PA and DJ subs and drivers. An probably PA/concert amplification.
May god have mercy on your neigbors. |
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| Volenti |
I'm a car audio installer and I'm currently building my own dedicated HT room.
To give you some idea of what you need if you want the kind of bass in the home that you're getting in the car you multiply every thing by at least 10x, 10x the power, 10x the cone area, 10x the box volume. That's not counting the massive structural modifications the room will need accomodate that:smash:
20x 12'' type R's
25000W of power
~30cuft enclosure volume
:bigeyes:
:D |
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| v1d9uy |
| yer a car audio installer ? in aus ? lol well im a installer in the US 20 x type Rs rofl no im not kidding about this i want some REAL answers....... im thinking just use a sealed box with 2 type r 12 s but with a huge freaking amp can a hometheater amp even go 1 ohm stable ? |
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| Volenti |
Two sealed 12''s in a typical room are going to sound pretty anemic compared to what they'll do in a car, I mean you loose 15db+ of gain to begin with. Room gain in a typical living room doesn't even start untill ~35hz (and even then it's less than in a car)
Doesn't matter how much power you throw at them, you'll reach thermal compression and excursion limits long before you get within an order of magnitude of what you're car was achieving.
Transmission line, rear loaded horn, or possibly even just a large vented enclosure is what you should investigate.
No HT amps are 1 ohm stable, though some Pro amps are 2 ohm stable in stereo mode. |
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| Nordic |
| OI time to pull the car in the garage and just sit in it I guess! |
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| mikee55 |
I'm a newbie to this Forum and before I registered I spent a little time typing some words into their search bar.I learnt so much more.You could type high power sub system.By reading some results you could establish a better search field like,driver make amplifier requirements.Do you have lots of cash?What about your room and where you live?How many cabs do I need?.Its all there.Just try it.
happy hunting.mikee55:angel: |
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| v1d9uy |
| actually i was really just wondering if it were possable to get that kinda bass in a room ... i would assume it would alote of $$$$$ |
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| v1d9uy |
| see thats some bass thats what im talking about. what subs were being used ? and how much wattage you think was needed? |
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| Stocker |
| I think you might want to look into infinite baffle configurations. Think 8x 18" long-throw drivers from Adire or Ascendant Audio, with several thousand watts behind them (dedicated 20 or 30 amp circuit from the breaker/fuse box) |
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| TransNova |
8 custom 15" woofers. Four QSC RMX-1450 on subs and Six QSC RMX-850's on highs.
Highs were custom built out of fiberglass by me with B&C loaded drivers. |
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| Dominick22 |
v1d9uy,
I am a bass lover too so I think I have some info for you.
First, I have discovered that no matter how hard you try, my experiance has been that your car sub will never come close in sound clarity/quality to a good home sub. I think the problem is that you have not truly heard a good home sub.???Is this true? I mean, it would only be fair to compare your car sub to a $3000+ home sub since that is what you have invested in the car.
I can back you up on the car stereo..yes he is telling the truth, but I have a strory for you.
I was running a single 10" Audiobahn sub with an audiobahn 2400 watt high current amp at 1 ohm in a ford probe. It cracked my windshield! One sub!
Never measured SPL though.
Second point here...It was in a $200 vented enclosure which is really the reason I hit so hard (back wave). Other enclosures were a joke in comparison.
Just so you know--the whole set is for sale know CHEAP if your interested. It doesnt fit in my Toyota MR2.
FINALLY-THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED TO HERE...Go audition a Martin Logan Descent Subwoofer (for home). It is servo controlled and runs at 800 watts. 3 10's in a sealed enclosure. Weighs around 100 pounds. It is capable of 18hz (according to the site) but I have pushed it to 14 hz with digital test disc. Thats 6 Hz below what a human can hear although my hearing fads at about 28 hz.
If you dont know what servo controlled is, look it up or ask. It is truly amazing.
It will cost you about $3400 new I think. I have one and it is just beautiful what it can do. I actually show people my car stereo and then take them into the home so they can really see the difference between a great sub and an industry benchmark.
There is more to a sub than just hitting. The spearation of notes is important as well as truly hearing the different tones. The Descent will still hit harder than both of our systems though.
Another option: if you truly "just" want to "feel" bass, try the buttkickers and other sub types that you can put under your couch. I "hear" those work well for a fraction of the cost. I think a buttkicker is around $150...but you dont get the sound quality. Just the feel which for the most part is all your getting from your car sub.
Descent description from ML site:
http://www.martinlogan.com/descent_speaker.html
Descent review: http://www.martinlogan.com/descent_...02jun.html#none
I hope this helps...
Dominick in New Jersey |
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| dnsey |
Please think carefully about this. Regular listening at the levels you're talking about WILL damage your hearing. You might not care now, but you will later...
Also, the ear has its own limiter system, which clamps the eardrum at high SPLs (that's why your hearing goes 'dead' for a while afterwards), so above a certain level, which depends to some extent on the individual, no amount of power will increase the subjective loudness anyway. |
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| RobWells |
I'll agree the descent is a beautiful sounding sub, but I wouldn't say it's an spl monster. 3 tens can only push so much air, and the servo will actually cut output back at higher levels to keep distortion down. My friend owns one.
I'd like to build an X1 from speakerplans just to see what it sounds like. I'd imagine a pair of them would do well over 130dB in room. Don't go too low though, but room gain should help some. I'll agree about the hearing loss thing, and your house won't thank you either. :devilr:
Cheers,
Rob |
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| gixxierific |
| quote: | Originally posted by Dominick22
v1d9uy,
First, I have discovered that no matter how hard you try, my experiance has been that your car sub will never come close in sound clarity/quality to a good home sub.
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Don't underestimate the pure sound quality that a good high end car sub can produce. You said you had an Auidobahn not exactly good on the SQ there, but hey they have pretty chrome grills and stuff.
But as said before you will be hard pressed to get you car experince inserted into a home enviroment. Mainly the room gain will be the killer. Only real way is like that vid shows LOTS of BIG subs and LOTS of BIG power which would eqaute to 1 EMPTY wallet. Good luck though v1dguy.:D |
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| Destroyer OS. |
Like Type R's qualify as high end car subwoofers. :Popworm:
BTW MTX1000D's only put out 1000wRMS into 4ohm, assuming your electrical system is at 12.6 Volts, that would be 500wRMS a piece. Not that any thing MTX builds would I expect to really put out that much. Also the older Type R's, before the new SWR or what ever, had an RMS ratng of 300wRMS... If your amp put out what it did I bet your VC's where shot and you never noticed, if you used that much power.
That one subwoofer mentioned at $3400 is over three times the price of two twelve inch Type R's and a MTX1000D.
Not to be an *** but..... SPL levels in the house are some thing else in themselfs.
Your best, cheapest bet, would be to buy drivers, amp kits/plate amps, and build your own enclosures to get any thing near what you feel in the car for a reasonible price. LARGE PORTED BOXES. |
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| v1d9uy |
| quote: | Originally posted by Destroyer OS.
Like Type R's qualify as high end car subwoofers. :Popworm:
BTW MTX1000D's only put out 1000wRMS into 4ohm, assuming your electrical system is at 12.6 Volts, that would be 500wRMS a piece. Not that any thing MTX builds would I expect to really put out that much. Also the older Type R's, before the new SWR or what ever, had an RMS ratng of 300wRMS... If your amp put out what it did I bet your VC's where shot and you never noticed, if you used that much power. |
ROFL 1000watts at 4 ohms lol .... sorry again rofl and by the way mtx is the only amp that i have ever had that hasnt took a **** on me it worked and sounded great for 2 years VC shot ....lol
that and i never said they were super highend ... MTX RFL IS A HELLA lot more expensive and hella loud .. but sounds like mucho *** that and id need 2 x mtx 1000ds one for each sub
that and they wiegh 50 lbs each plus the 2 amps are kinda heavy
i was going for SQ NOT db when i built my system. by the way the alpine type rs are 500watt RMS 750 peak i had 2 x DVC 2ohm subs and the amp im perty sure was running at 2 ohm and ... at 2 ohms the amp is rated @ 1101 watts... so around 550 per sub |
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| gixxierific |
| quote: | Originally posted by Destroyer OS.
Like Type R's qualify as high end car subwoofers. :Popworm:
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If that was directed at me I didn't say anything like that.
:nownow: |
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| Dominick22 |
DESTOYER,
v1d9uy said:
"granted i did only have about 3k into my subs/ box and amp/wireing and another 3k in componants/deck/ and componant amp so i had 6k in all"
You said:
"That one subwoofer mentioned at $3400 is over three times the price of two twelve inch Type R's and a MTX1000D."
So what difference does it make? He is willing to spend that much on car audio (Subs alone)...I think he can swing $3400 that will have markedly better SQ. Point is-its only $400 more in his case.
And also, I dont think that any combo of type r's and MTX 1000's could even compare in SQ to one Descent. A dual Descent system set up properly in an average room, and I think you would be hard pressed to find any other single sub compenent "on the market" that could give you better clarity. Its like comparing little league to the majors.
The only other sub company that I would reccomend would be SVS. I heard one of their higher end subs and it was thrilling. But like I said...A higher end model.
Good luck to you v1d9uy,
Dominick in New Jersey |
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| rcavictim |
v1d9uy,
If you are after the total body pounding from acoustic (air pressure waves) at the chest cavity collapsing levels you might have gotten in your car, in your home, here is an idea for you.
Have you ever seen those small personal steam bath units on some movies where a person sitting on a chair is essentially sealed into a clamshell cabinet with his head only poking out a small hole in the middle of the top that is only big enough for his neck?
You could make a heavy wooden cabinet and place perhaps four 18", 8 ohm woofers on two sides. Only modest power levels would be needed. I'd think 800 watts (one 400 watt/ch into 4 ohms stereo pro sound amp) would be plenty enough to turn your body into jello with efficient drivers. For the upper range and to protect your hearing you could actually run normal full range through headphones that seal against your head and stop most of the outside damaging SPL's.
This would be a interesting form of sonic massage I would think.
If the cabinet was open baffle, i.e. the woofers were all visible on the outside of the cabinet,, it would still function as a subwoofer for the room even if you were not sitting inside it. Double duty!
I think I'd be putting a Dead Man's switch in there with you to shut the system down and a working telephone so you can dial 911 if you need to someday and find you cannot move to get out to a phone.
BTW, if anyone starts selling this invention commercially they willl have to pay me royalties! Yes this crazy idea is entirely MY fault. :D |
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| Destroyer OS. |
v1d9uy I am glad you had a good luck with the MTX (until it was stolen :( ). There are much nicer amplifiers out there, unfortunatly the realm of higher quality car stereo stuff is more hidden than audiophile home stuff.
Sorry about putting 4 ohm, I was thinking about what I was to type next and never typed it.
You mentioned having the Type R's for a few years. The older models where not rated for over 300wRMS, if even that. I guess you got the newer models, probably about when they came out.
At 2 ohm the amplifier is rated at 1000wRMS, at 12.5v (sorry about .6 in previous post, I can type sloppy some time). I would assume your car puts out more like 11.8-12.2v. Plus I doupt it could put out 1000wRMS at 12.5v. Very few car audio amplifiers actaully do put out what they claim to put out. Point being your first post was a little far fetched.
Dominick22 the thing about spending the same amount of money on one subwoofer as another seutp.... Yeah fairly decent comparrison until you through in the friendly reminder that he would need several of those $3400 subwoofers to get the same SPL levels. |
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| v1d9uy |
| yea im sure there some godly **** out there that you cant buy locally at yer normal car audio place that iv never seen or even heard of .... but as far as the **** you can can buy local .... i put alpine at the top of that ( except there amps) i also have no reason to not believe the rateing on the MTX amp .... i mean its not a 2000 watt JENSEN lol |
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| frankenstereo |
| I may know of a sub for you. My brother has an enclosure containing two 18" woofers that are motor driven! Sounds bizarre, right? These enclosures were used in theaters, not home theaters. They are amazingly light and extremely accurate, as the motor drive eliminates some of the mechanical limitations imposed by voice-coil driven woofers. He uses a bridged Nakamichi PA7 and a digital programmable equalizer to fine tune the lows end. It is amazing |
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