| pat99 |
can everyone please post pics or a link of their audio setup in their car
thank you |
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| xplod1236 |
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...1372#post721372
That was my old setup. Currently I'm working on a box for an AV15. It will be powered by the same amp. Hopefully I will get it done by the weekend. I'll post pics then.
Edit: forgot to mention that everything else is stock. |
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| sr20dem0n |
Alpine 9835 (3-way mode, using it as the active processor)
Adire Koda components
Arc Audio 2100cxl on the tweets
Linear Power 2.2hv on the mids
Adire Brahma 15 in 2.5cf sealed
Cadence ZRS-8
lots of deadening |
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| v1d9uy |
alpine deck 2 sets of alpine 6-1/2 inch componants type R
2 x type R 12s dual 2 ohm
one MTX 8100d
MTX 4 channel 100 x 4
all of that in a full size bronco = 151 db
and it has the best SQ iv heard in a long time |
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| JBL-3-speaker-0 |
pioneer deck - the cheapest one
factory cabin speakers
kenWood 300 watts max rms 2 channel amp - Bridged
2 pioneer 150 rms 4ohm subs the cheapest of the cheap
1 JL Audio 12W0 125 rms 8ohm
subs in a custom bandpass enclosure 9.88 ft3 tuned to 35hz
sounds really good considering the cheap components and everything is at least five years old -except the hu which is only a year young |
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| jdgonko |
In my 98 Grand Cherokee I'm running:
1) Pioneer DEH-P8600MP deck. I've always liked Pioneer for car audio purposes.
2) Four Infinity 63.5i speakers (door mounted unfortunately) powered by the deck with a -12dB/octave cutoff at 160Hz. You could get away with two only and properly mount them using Q-Logic kick panel enclosures (my next spring project). They'll handle much more than the Pioneer deck can put out but see the following SPL measurement!
3) Two Infinity Basslinks mounted vertically right behind the back beach seat firing towards the rear hatchback of the vehicle with one switched to 180 phase (as I wanted them to be mounted "symmetrically" looking) and they're using the deck's -18dB/octave cutoff at 80Hz. The long path the bass travels has seemed to improve very low bass response.
Why such a difference in cutoff frequencies (80Hz and 160Hz)??? If I went closer together, it sounded much too boomy and loud at those frequencies so that was the separation I needed to get a satisfying flat response believe it or not.
The sound is more accurate and tighter than anything else I've heard (in a vehicle that is) and according to the SPL meter, it does more than 126dBspl (as that's the meter's maximum) without any noticeable distortion. So, that's good enough for me. And, yes, I can actually feel the bass. There have been kick drums that made me think I got rear-ended and made me check my rear-view mirror. Also good is that the GC's construction is so darn thick that not much sound escapes the vehicle's interior to bother others around me, heh. |
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| tahvo72 |
Hi!
In my ´95 BMW 525 Touring i have the next installed:
HU: Pioneer ODR RS-K1 cassette deck and RS-M1 CD-changer
Processors: ODR RS-P1 and RS-P50
Amps: DLS A4 (4 x 50 W) and DLS A6 (1 x 500 W) The A4 is for the front end and the A6 for the subwoofer... ;)
Main speakers: DLS Iridium 6 midbass/midrange in kickpanels, DLS Iridium 1 in custom built aluminium housings on the dashboard. All speakers in the front are very much custom angled for best imaging.
Subwoofer: DLS Iridium 10" in custum made ported box approximately 28 liters (1 cubicfoot?)
Speaker- and powerwiring DLS...
As You can see, most of the products are DLS. That is because this car was competing in EMMA Finland competitions last summer. Actually came in second in the FInnish finals in category Pro Sound Only...
And yes, it´s all DIY ;)
-HT- |
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| nine76chris |
Hey all!
This is what's in my '97 Chrysler Sebring:
Alpine DVA-7996 DVD player w/external Sirius sat tuner(Stern!)
MB Quart PCE 216 6 1/2" components in the doors
MB Quart QTD 25 tweeters in the door A/C vents
2X MB Quart PWE352 15" DVC subs
McIntosh MC420 amp- 50WRMS x 4@4ohm
2X Precision Power PC1800.2 amps- 800WRMS x 1@2ohm
2X Optima redtops
1 Farad cap
The McIntosh run the Speakers in the doors, each sub gets a PPI.
Each 6" has its own small sealed enclosure in the doors. Each sub gets 2 ft3 sealed airspace. The car was made with flipdown rear seats which allowed interior access to the trunk through a large opening. The sub box now occupies this opening and the subs fire foward. Flip the rear seats up to hide the subs. One Optima redtop is up front like stock, the other redtop is in the trunk near the amps and cap. The 2 batteries are wired in parallel along with the cap. Unfortunantly, I bought subs back when I only had a single PPI, so I bought them with voice coils that would wire up to a 2ohm load which would draw the full 800 watts from the amp. Now with 2 PPI's the subs can only be wired for a 4ohm load on each amp. Power gained with second PPI? Nada. Each sub has 2 2ohm VC's. Does anyone know if it would be OK to use only one VC(2ohm) from each sub and leave the other unconnected to get max power from the PPI's? BTW, they won't drive 1ohm without risk of damage.
- Thanks- |
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| black300zx |
Currently in my Z
h/u - eclipse 8443
JL 300/4 --> oem bose fronts(temporarily)
Hifonics Nx750d --> (3) e8a.44 sealed
I've got a set of ID cd1pro's sitting in my room waiting to be installed. After the holiday's i'll be ordering some peerless 8" midbasses to go with them
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/icixnat...4_thumb_202.jpg |
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| sr20dem0n |
| quote: | Originally posted by nine76chris
Does anyone know if it would be OK to use only one VC(2ohm) from each sub and leave the other unconnected to get max power from the PPI's? BTW, they won't drive 1ohm without risk of damage.
- Thanks- |
You could, but efficiency will drop by either 3 or 6 dB (forgot which) and thermal power handling will be cut in half (not quite in half, but almost). That means that if your sub can handle 600 rms thermally and you only need 200 rms to reach the output you want, by only powering one coil the sub could handle 300 rms thermally and you would need either 400 or 800 rms to reach the output you want, not a good idea. |
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| CBFryman |
Head Unit : Stock
Mid: RE's
Highs : RE's
Mids/Highs Amp: Shopping for one
Sub: Avalanche 18
Enclosure: 6cuft@27Hz 74sqin Port Rea
Amp: BX1205D
Sorry 56k
(measuring Impeadance curve)
(amp turn on)
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| djQUAN |
I'm driving a nissan terrano (pathfinder in some parts of the world)
headunit: pioneer DEH 2650
EQ's : modified crossfire CFQ5x and a diy'ed dual mono 10 band EQ
crosover: P09 from ESP (4th order version set at 100Hz)
amps : P03A from ESP ( +/-35V rails) and amp2 (+/-47V rails) T-amp from 41Hz.com
fronts: MB Quart DSD216 6.5" separates
rears : aura 5.25 coaxes
bass: two JBL LC-S1250W subs in 1.15cu ft sealed boxes.
wiring: power wiring and fuse holders by stinger. the rest are generic brands....
I have entered a show last october and my setup clocked 132db in the SPL category (I topped my category). not too impressive but keep in mind I'm using entry level subs which cost me $89 for the two new drivers and are in sealed boxes. all of the other competitors are using ported boxes.
at full blast, my ride can be heard a block or two away. it has happened to me in more than one occasion that the gates at my house were already opened since the people there knew I was coming. :D
I have just upgraded my custom under car "neon" which is composed of 384 pcs of size 0603 SMD LED's in a series parallel config powered by a TL494 based SMPS so it won't flicker with the bass. cost me a little over $20 in parts but took 5 hours just to populate the 16 LED board arrays. |
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| CBFryman |
| I did 145.3 on a stiff AC wiht my current set up...im quite proud of that due to my tuning. |
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| nine76chris |
| Yep, big inches in big cubic feet driven by big watts will get big SPL everytime. Somethings never change. What are you using to measure to 145db? I have the Radioshack one but My system pegs the needle so I have to assume my spl is somewhere over 130db. I was looking at the 6ft3 box and was wondering if it has an internal volume of 6ft3 after you subtract out the area taken up by the 2 ports? Because they look pretty big, half the box is port. |
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| djQUAN |
if you used a db meter for car audio competitions, I don't know if I could trust them.
a friend measured 148db with only one 12" sub in a basic slot ported enclosure and a 400W amp in a car show, in my case, mine was measured using the handheld types and I got only 132db. while the other competitors revved their engines to get higher voltage=higher SPL, my engine was only at idle. |
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| CBFryman |
Mine was on the AC (beasically what yours is only it was competition so its more accurate than a cheap Radio Shack...they cost over $500 new) wit ha basically brand new mic (had never seen over 145dB untill i got there and only 5 people had had a run at if before).
AC mics basically read feedback voltage and frequincy from the air moving the diafram, the newer the mic the stiffer the diafram the more accurate it is.
The most accurate form of measurement (wont be thrown out of calibration by lots of uses) is Term Lab USB but no one locally has one... you generally loose 1-3dB on Term Lab compared to an "accurate" AC and with an inaccurate AC yo ucan loose as much as 6.
Id probably doing around 143-144dB on Term Lab USB (maybe a little less) which im still proud of considering tuning and a 100% SQ driver that was designed for Infrabass responce in home use.
Dont get me wrong, i love my Ava...but it wasnt deisgned for SPL. Still wangs hard :smash: |
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| djQUAN |
| quote: | Originally posted by CBFryman
Mine was on the AC (beasically what yours is only it was competition so its more accurate than a cheap Radio Shack...they cost over $500 new) wit ha basically brand new mic (had never seen over 145dB untill i got there and only 5 people had had a run at if before).
AC mics basically read feedback voltage and frequincy from the air moving the diafram, the newer the mic the stiffer the diafram the more accurate it is.
The most accurate form of measurement (wont be thrown out of calibration by lots of uses) is Term Lab USB but no one locally has one... you generally loose 1-3dB on Term Lab compared to an "accurate" AC and with an inaccurate AC yo ucan loose as much as 6.
Id probably doing around 143-144dB on Term Lab USB (maybe a little less) which im still proud of considering tuning and a 100% SQ driver that was designed for Infrabass responce in home use.
Dont get me wrong, i love my Ava...but it wasnt deisgned for SPL. Still wangs hard :smash: |
do you have a link to the USB mic you mentioned?
my system was also designed with SQ in mind and SPL was a good side effect. :P |
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| qspeet |
People here have nice set-ups!!
H/U : Clarion DRZ-925
Frontstage : Seas G18RNX with LPG 25NFA
amps: 2 x Next 4.400, 1 x Next 2.400 and 1 zapco ref 750
Sub: None for now, probably Dayton RSS315HF 12" or Peerless XLS 12"
Deadening: RAAMmat + Ensolite (on it's way) |
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| Bose(o) |
Originally posted by nine76chris
Does anyone know if it would be OK to use only one VC(2ohm) from each sub and leave the other unconnected to get max power from the PPI's? BTW, they won't drive 1ohm without risk of damage.
- Thanks-
Technically, you CAN, but your Qes will be doubled. So, you should short the other unused coil to avoid this. You should notice improved control and greater dynamics. |
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| 69CamaroSS396 |
| No pictures currently, but my set up consists of old school a/d/s px335 components, which is by far the finest system I have owned in 30+ years. These components are biamped with modified Linear Power 992IQs. My sub system is two 10" Audio Concepts(also old school) in sealed boxes, amplified by a pair of modified Linear Power 1502IQs. I have rear fill provided by Audax 6 1/2s and a stock Linear Power 652IQ. For the first time ever, I feel no need to upgrade anything. I've reached a level of satisfaction with this system that makes me think I couldn't be happier with a mobile set up. |
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| oPossum |
The last respectable system I has was in my '89 Jetta (89-91).
Alpine 7909 - the first in west Michigan.
Alpine 7390 - swap with 7909.
Alpine 5952S
ADS 642CSi
ADS PH15
PPI 2300M
Nakamichi SP15 / SP50 - front, biamped
Nakamichi SP15 / SP50 / PC100 - rear
Nakamichi SP1010 (2)
Alpine 8080
Alpine 9542/9545
Dual Battery
If you know what all that is you are as old as the hills. For everyone else it's "old school".
I still have everything (except the ADS stuff). Like new condition in original boxes. Don't drive much anymore so there is little motivation to take the time to install it all. My interests shifted to home theatre in the early 90's. My current HT system has 32 subs driven by two 1.6KW amps :) |
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| SiCaln |
| sorry i know this isnt relevant to this post, but i was wondering if (long shot) u still had the sp-50s available or know where i could get some oPossum, i was tryin to email you, but i have not got access to that feature yet |
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| ppia600 |
-Kenwood kdcx890
-Precision power art 600.2 (600 watts rms for mids/tweets)
(Getting another soon so each pair of components can have its own amp)
-Two pairs of polk db6501 components
-Earthquake Phd2 (2k watts rms)
-Two MTX Mxs 1204 subwoofers in a sealed box
I'll be getting rid of the 12's and buying some shallow 8's and building enclosures in the passenger rear side panels. Haven't decided on ported or sealed. I also haven't decided on running the earthquake on the 8's or using the ppi pro mos 50. |
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| Clipped |
Right now in the car i have:
Rockford rfx 8140
bluewave eq8
sub setup
1 x orion 2150sx
2 x boshmann zd-12xal
mid/hi setup
1 x orion 225 hcca
2 x Jbl 508 GTi
2 X unbranded 1" textile dome dish tweeters
-----------------------------------------------------------------
new setup once i get off my butt and do it will be:
3 x orion 2150sx
6 x boschmann zd-12xal subs (12's)
or
3 X boschmann zd-12xal subs, recoiled to dvc 2 ohm.
2 x orion 225hcca (rewound to 36 volt rails, eventually)
2 x 5.25" JBL 508GTi
2 x Eminence 8" mids (yes a mid)
2 x RCF 2" textile dome stage tweeters
2 x unbranded 1" textile dome dish tweeters
subs are great for the price, but have to have a new spider installed, the original spider has the tinsels woven into the spider.
the tinsels tear where the epoxy meets the voice coil, the tinsel goes right through this joint and tears,
right now im experimenting with different voice coil and spider configurations with the subs, before i put the rest in. |
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| jpruden |
Hi all,
My setup is:
Sony CDX-C880 head
Sony XDP-210EQ processor
Sony T-65 CD Changer
Sony MD changer
Sony C30 multi disk controller
JL Audio 300/2 amp (front speakers)
JL Audio 500/1 amp (sub)
Dynaudio 220 front set
JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3 enclosed sub
Very nice indeed.
smiles,
Jamie |
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| Flyin11 |
Subs and box to change this week :D
Headunit: Kenwood KDC-MP4028
CD Changer: Kenwood 6 disc (Don't remember the model)
Tweeters: Stock tweeters that came with the 2003 Civic
Front Speakers: Kenwood 6 1/2's (Don't remember the model)
Rear Speakers: Kicker 3 way 6X9 speakers
Amplifier: Just replaced a old school PPI Sedona 50ix with a Alpine MRP-M450 to get set for my next set of subs.
Subs: 2 Rockford Punch 8ohm 12" Stage 1 subs (wired in parallel for a 4ohm load) that I bought from Crutchfield in a ported box.
Just got a new sealed box today and will be getting 2 JL Audio 12" 12W1v2 4ohm subwoofers to replace the other subs and I will be trying to sell those 2 12's on Ebay without the box to get something for them. Will wire them in parallel to get a 2ohm load and have the Alpine pushing 400watts RMS into them. The box is 1.4 cu foot and the speaker page says you need 1.25 cu foot so the guy at the audio place told me to put some poly-fil in it and I should be fine. Can't wait to hear those babies pound!! |
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| Flyin11 |
My final updated setup :cool:
Headunit: Kenwood KDC-X891
Tweeters: Stock tweeters that came with the 2003 Civic
Front Speakers: Kenwood 6 1/2's (Don't remember the model)
Rear Speakers: Kicker 3 way 6X9 speakers
Sub Amplifier: Rockford P300-1
Highs Amplifier: Alpine MRP-F240
Subs: 2 JL Audio 12" 12W1v2 4ohm wired in parallel for a 2ohm load in a 1.27cu ft sealed enclosure
Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Capacitor
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| crs1 |
2000 chevy silverado standard cab
alpine cda9853
2 infinity kappa 124.7W subs in 1 cube ft sealed box each
infinity reference 1600A mono amp
infinity reference 7541A amp
infinity kappa 60.7cs with tweeters in the A pillars firing at the windshield
infinity 4x6 plates in the B pillars can't remember the model # |
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| Jonny Hotnuts |
I am building a stereo for my twin turbo toyota tundra.
Its a mix of old school and new items.
Head unit:
Currently using a Kenwood Excelon (cant remember what one it is but it was the best unit they offered in 2000).
I am now looking at the Eclipse CD7100 8 volt.
The front stage:
Dynaudio 240 GT set powered with (2) A/D/S/ PQ20's run 2 channels per side.
Sub drivers:
Considering a few but will likely end up with the Fi Q series 10" and will run 4. www.ficaraudio.com
Sub amps.
I own 4 kicker ZR1000's but will likely ebay them for something else. They are great amps but very power hungry and not really in the same league as the front stage components.
Was considering the American made TO3 case Tru Billet or copper series amps. I have never heard one but really like what they have on their site. http://www.trutechnology.com/produc...etseries001.htm |
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| bulldogfreddy |
Kenwood 911dvd
15.4 flip down
4 12's pioneer
2 hifonincs brutus 2006
1 crossfire 302cfa
kenwood comp 6 1/2 in all four doors
2 battiers and upgraded alt.
In a Chevy Avalanche |
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| Safe_Cracker |
Wow, I feel out of place! This is a daily setup so here it goes....
2001 Pontiac GTP
Pioneer Deh P9800BT
Cadence CVL (1 pair 5K, and 1 pair 6k all up front)
Kicker SX900.4 (for the above)
TC Sounds 5200 (4hp driven subwoofer, Ti cone)
IA 40.1, produces around 6K rms on 16V system (16-18.3V)
1 BatCap 8400 @ 16V, 2 HC2200 @16V, sit at 18.3V fully charged (float)
Iraggi 300A Amputator series externally regulated, max charge voltage is around 19.3V as required by the BatCap 8400
Fisher Customs enclosure with interchangeable ports (30, 35 and 40hz tune)
3 runs of 1/0ga wire.
Polo..
 
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