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Vrds10 - Jumping - Click HERE for Original Thread
ANDYLASER
My Teac VRDS10 has started to suffer from intermittant random jumping whilst playing. It does this on virtually every CD and sometimes jumps through a whole album in a couple of minutes. Has anyone else suffered from this and can anyone offer any help?
Thanks
marconi
Several TEAC VRDS transports suffer from a broken stable platter, the disc that is put on top of the CD. If it is a black one, then probably there are very fine cracks, hardly visible, in the center just around the metal shaft. Under various temperature conditions and also randomly, skipping occurs because of this.
The disc will have to be replaced by a Teac service center.

The green stable platters appear to be much more reliable and do rarely have to be replaced.

Other possibilities are everything from weakened laser-units via weak spindle motors up to defective servo-chips and bad power supplies. But check the disc first, that's 90% of the times the culprit.
Cobra2
-you must be joking!
Platter is made of a (aluminium)alloy, and would only crack with help of a hammer.

A worn or dirty laser, or just out of adjustment will make the player skip. Also check & clean the laser-slide & "wheel".

Arne K
marconi
Don't know about the VRDS10, but a whole lot of TEACs use PLASTIC platters. And the black ones DO fail. All of them.
Cobra2
CD-mechanism on VRDS-10 is similar to VRDS-25, wich is similar to Wadia 270 & 861... ( CMK-3x)

Arne K
I_Forgot
quote:
Originally posted by ANDYLASER
My Teac VRDS10 has started to suffer from intermittant random jumping whilst playing. It does this on virtually every CD and sometimes jumps through a whole album in a couple of minutes. Has anyone else suffered from this and can anyone offer any help?
Thanks

My VRDS-20 started doing that for a while, then the drawer stopped opening and closing so I couldn't play anything at all.

I fixed it very easily. There are just two small belts in the player- one that opens and closes the drawer, and the other that drives the lift that presses the disc against the platter. If the lift belt slips, it won't press the disc against the platter hard enough and the result will be skipping.

I replaced the belts and the thing works like new again.

I was not able to locate exact replacements for the belts (they use those square cross section things) so I used O-rings from the hardware store. Total cost- $1.58 plus about 3 hours to disassemble and reassemble the player.

I_F
Free trade inn
My first post here please help the n00b!
Hi I have the same problem with skipping and draw but mine also has problems with its controls i.e. they swap opperations.
Kind regards,
FTI
Free trade inn
.....Oh yes I forgot to mention sometimes the draw wont open, But when it opens it closes imediately.
Kind regards,
FTI.
Free trade inn
OK, so reading into what people have been saying here my skipping and drawer not opening probably is a belt related issue, BUT sometimes the draw as I have said opens and closes imediately.
ANY IDEAS?
Also the controls on the front of the machine do what they want i.e. "stop" sometimes "plays", "FF" sometimes "stops"etc.
PLEASE ADVISE.
I_Forgot
quote:
Originally posted by Free trade inn
OK, so reading into what people have been saying here my skipping and drawer not opening probably is a belt related issue, BUT sometimes the draw as I have said opens and closes imediately.
ANY IDEAS?
Also the controls on the front of the machine do what they want i.e. "stop" sometimes "plays", "FF" sometimes "stops"etc.
PLEASE ADVISE.

Does it behave properly when you use the remote control or does it have the same type of problem? In my VRDS-20 all the connections to all the boards are made via connectored cables. You could try unplugging and reinserting connectors in case some contacts have become dirty, but you may need to replace the controller board (if it is a separate board).

Good luck!

I_F
SisterOfMercy
I recently had the same problems with my VRDS T-1. It also made more noise when playing a disc, especially when reading the TOC.

I opened it up, and the laser looked like it sticked on its guide rail. But the laser itself was very smooth on the guide rails.

I've traced the problem to a broken gear driving the laser. Almost half of the teeth were missing on this gear. Luckily the teeth were almost intact on a different height at the gear, so with a spacer and some glue I was able to fix it. Maybe TEAC still supplies those gears. But this is something you could also look into.
Spiritzly
quote:
Originally posted by marconi
Several TEAC VRDS transports suffer from a broken stable platter, the disc that is put on top of the CD. If it is a black one, then probably there are very fine cracks, hardly visible, in the center just around the metal shaft. Under various temperature conditions and also randomly, skipping occurs because of this.
The disc will have to be replaced by a Teac service center.

The green stable platters appear to be much more reliable and do rarely have to be replaced.

Other possibilities are everything from weakened laser-units via weak spindle motors up to defective servo-chips and bad power supplies. But check the disc first, that's 90% of the times the culprit.

I hope you can receive my email because I tried to email you but the server will not allow me to. Please email me at: audioexcels@yahoo.com I have a question regarding the THS ops.

Thanks so much and hope you get this!!!

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