| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Hello Everybody :)
I'm a newbee, and this is my first post on the board, so go easy on me... :D
I own aforementoned player, and was wondering what further tweaks can I apply on it.
So far, I have removed the mute transistors, rolled the op-amps (used op275 and ad826), exchanged the power cord, isolated the crystal from vibration (unsoldered it, isolated with foam, and then attached to the PCB via two very flexible wires)...
The player gained in soundstage widh and depth and overall speed and clarity...
What more can I do?
Cheers....
P.S. I would be thankfull if somebody who has it, would email the |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Post Scriptum came out a little short :D it should be
[quote=Scorpio(DDMF)!] P.S. I would be thankfull if somebody who has it, would email me the diagram or service manual for the player [/quote]
Cheers... |
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| Bernhard |
| Low critter clock for tighter bass :angel: |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Thx Bernhard :)
Nobody else? :(
OK, here are the pictures of the player's insides, and an hi-res picture of it's PCB...
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/Alb...9815&a=31727927
It is intresting that I cannot find much info on this player on the net except it's manifacturing date (1987). Wasn't too popular in it's time? :rolleyes:
Its made around the TDA 1541 DAC, like it's bigger brother (the 333ESD) wich was going for 1000+ Eur (modified) when I bought mine for 150 Eur (3-4 years ago) :dead: Do they share some parts or simular construction?
Anybody got any idea what more can I do with it?
Cheers...
P.S. On the hi-res picture of the PCB, you can see the topology and the symbols on the PCB and elements if it's any help....
P.P.S. Nobody has the service manual? :( |
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| Kitjunky |
God I used to own one of those but gave it to a friend in need about 5 years ago, It served me well for 12 years the only fault being a slipping tray drive belt. It was a pretty nice sounding player to if memory serves me correctly. Im now listening to a heavily modded XB770 @ the mo. you can see some of the mods done to this on my website www.extreme-x.co.uk
Chris:) |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by Kitjunky
God I used to own one of those but gave it to a friend in need about 5 years ago, It served me well for 12 years the only fault being a slipping tray drive belt. It was a pretty nice sounding player to if memory serves me correctly. Im now listening to a heavily modded XB770 @ the mo. you can see some of the mods done to this on my website www.extreme-x.co.uk
Chris:) |
THX Chris,
Can you just clarify wich model was your former player (because in the title of your responce you wrote 222ES , and this model is 222ESD), just to see are we talking about the same player :D
This is one other thing that's a puzzle to me...
What does ESD stand for, or how much diferent is the ESD version diferent from the ES version of the player? :xeye:
I was able to find a lot info on 222ES on the net, and it seems that it's made around PCM56P J DAC.
Is that one better sounding than TDA 1541? (damn you Sony and your hundred variations of the markings :D )
If somebody else's got an idea feel free to join the discussion ;)
And, if some kind soul has the service manual for my player, please send it? (I'm geting reeaallyy boring with this, am I? :D )
Cheers... |
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| Bernhard |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
I was able to find a lot info on 222ES on the net, and it seems that it's made around PCM56P J DAC.
Is that one better sounding than TDA 1541? (damn you Sony and your hundred variations of the markings :D )
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IMHO the D stands for digital out.
IMHO some PCM56 are better than TDA1541/A but some S1 or S2 might be as good.
IMHO DAC chips need to be selected by end user. |
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| tvi |
From the CDP222ESD/505ESD/910 service Manual
Regards
James |
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| pku |
| Hi, try this, shield disk drive unit with galvanized steel sheet. |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by pku
Hi, try this, shield disk drive unit with galvanized steel sheet. |
Did you mean that I should put a steel "cover" over the transport?
Where can I (commonly) find glavanized steel?
Can you post a picture of the tweak, so I can have a better preview?
THX
Cheers... |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by tvi
From the CDP222ESD/505ESD/910 service Manual
Regards
James |
Hi, sorry to bother you, but is there a possibility for you to send me the service manual, or point me to it on the web?
Also, do you have an better picture of the shematic?
Cheers...
Others: If you can please join in to share some more ideas :cool:
THX in advance
Cheers |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
How would the sound benefit from replacing stock capacitors with some higher quaility ones?
Please suggest wich ones are critical, and maybe type of capacitor wich would be a good replacement? :scratch:
Cheers :cheerful: |
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| Kitjunky |
For a start I would replace C506 & C406 with at least 47uF 50v Nichicon Muse or Black Gates or Elna Silmic.
This should give a deeper more controlled bass responce
Chris:) |
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| Kitjunky |
I would also replace C416 & C417 with 470uf 25v or more Nichicon Muse
Chris |
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| guytou |
hi scorpio , you should try a I/V conversion with a simple resistor of 100 ohms tapped between iout of 1541 and ground .After that you hook a wire and a coupling cap(8 uF) between pinout and RCA plug , that's all .No need of pos-filtering since there is O/S .
Try it and say us how you feel . Thee only drawback is that you
got to loss some level , you would have around 400mV instead of
2 V , but i think it's sufficient .Ah , don't forget to cut the path to the analogue stage .(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp).Now you have almost the same implementation than a10.000 euros Wadia 2000 .Enjoy ! |
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| rfbrw |
| quote: | Originally posted by guytou
hi scorpio , you should try a I/V conversion with a simple resistor of 100 ohms tapped between iout of 1541 and ground .After that you hook a wire and a coupling cap(8 uF) between pinout and RCA plug , that's all .No need of pos-filtering since there is O/S .
Try it and say us how you feel . Thee only drawback is that you
got to loss some level , you would have around 400mV instead of
2 V , but i think it's sufficient .Ah , don't forget to cut the path to the analogue stage .(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp).Now you have almost the same implementation than a10.000 euros Wadia 2000 .Enjoy ! |
Not only will you loose level,you will also loose drive and your CD player will now be extremely sensitiive to the kind of load presented by the cable and downstream kit.
And you will have nothing remotely comparable, technically speaking, to a Wadia. |
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| Kitjunky |
Another down'r of doing an IV mode on this setup is that you would loose de'emphasis on discs that require it (dont know how many disks are actualy recorded with de,emph though).
Chris:D |
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| pku |
Sorry with late reply. Yes, I mean that. The disk drive generate a lot of EMF noise.
The covering should be para-magnetic steel sheet, which will well absorb the magnetic wave noise, also electrical wave noise. You can buy galvnized steel sheet from tools&hardware store.
:D |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by guytou
hi scorpio , you should try a I/V conversion with a simple resistor of 100 ohms tapped between iout of 1541 and ground .After that you hook a wire and a coupling cap(8 uF) between pinout and RCA plug , that's all .No need of pos-filtering since there is O/S .
Try it and say us how you feel . Thee only drawback is that you
got to loss some level , you would have around 400mV instead of
2 V , but i think it's sufficient .Ah , don't forget to cut the path to the analogue stage .(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp).Now you have almost the same implementation than a10.000 euros Wadia 2000 .Enjoy ! |
OK, thx, will try this. Sorry to ask, but what kind of capacitor should I use? :confused:
Will an simple pulling of the opamps out of their sockets do the trick for "loosing the analogue stage", or I'll need to desolder an resistor?
| quote: | Originally posted by rfbrw
Not only will you loose level,you will also loose drive and your CD player will now be extremely sensitiive to the kind of load presented by the cable and downstream kit.
And you will have nothing remotely comparable, technically speaking, to a Wadia. |
Can you point me to the name of this procedure, so I can do a search and see all pros and cons, rather than bothering you all to write your thoughts on it again? :angel:
| quote: | Originally posted by Kitjunky
For a start I would replace C506 & C406 with at least 47uF 50v Nichicon Muse or Black Gates or Elna Silmic.
I would also replace C416 & C417 with 470uf 25v or more Nichicon Muse
This should give a deeper more controlled bass responce
Chris :) |
THX Chris, will try...
Cheers :D
P.S. Boy, this will be one busy weekend :devilr: |
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| rfbrw |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
Can you point me to the name of this procedure, so I can do a search and see all pros and cons, rather than bothering you all to write your thoughts on it again? :angel:
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Not sure what procedure you are referring to but if you mean passive
i/v using a resistor then see here,
http://httpd.chello.nl/%7em.heijlig...nalogue/IV.html |
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| carlosfm |
| quote: | Originally posted by guytou
Ah , don't forget to cut the path to the analogue stage .(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp) |
Are you sure? |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Yes, I was referring to that procedure, will read, thx :)
Cheers :D |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by carlosfm
Are you sure? |
Guytou statement isn't true?
I was wondering if I could get the same effect with removing the op-amps, and soldering mentioned capacitor (8 µF) directly to the interconnect cable (for test purposes), and later if I should like the sound, solder the cap directly to RCA plug?
Cheers :D |
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| carlosfm |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
Guytou statement isn't true? |
No, this isn't true:
| quote: | Originally posted by guytou
(generally there is a serie resistor between the DAC and the first opamp) |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
I was wondering if I could get the same effect with removing the op-amps, and soldering mentioned capacitor (8 µF) directly to the interconnect cable (for test purposes), and later if I should like the sound, solder the cap directly to RCA plug? |
For passive I/V with the TDA1541A what works best for me is 33R.
In any case, with passive I/V, you need an output stage with gain. |
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| rfbrw |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
Guytou statement isn't true?
I was wondering if I could get the same effect with removing the op-amps, and soldering mentioned capacitor (8 µF) directly to the interconnect cable (for test purposes), and later if I should like the sound, solder the cap directly to RCA plug?
Cheers :D |
One would not expect to see a series resistor at the output of a current-out dac like the TDA1541. The current output is normally connected directly to the inverting input of the i/v op-amp and the feedback r & c. In order to try Guytou's mod you would have to isolate the two outputs of the TDA1541, AOL and AOR, and then connect each output to ground through an appropriately sized resistor. You could then connect the junction of each resistor and its respective output, via a capacitor of your choice, to the relevant RCA. |
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| guytou |
| hi scorpio , rbfwb said very well , this kind of DAC has a current output , and the goal of the mod is transform the current in tension by the mean of a resistor instead of an op-amp , and therefore cut the path between AOL/AOR(pin 6 and 25 of 1541) and I/V first op-amp , and tap your resistor the way rbfwb said . 100 ohms works well , with 33 ohms the output level would be too weak .Try a good polypro to begin .Anyway this mod is effective ,no-cost and reversible , worth to try .Regards . |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Well I did the first tweak...
I listened to proposition and bought some (aldough lower quality) capacitors, and exchanged stock ones. Sound became (to my ears) more detailed in midange ... music was very "present" and "live" (very nice change ), folowed by a little more bass...
But, I think I messed something up in the process :xeye: ...
I noticed that some voltage regulators are very hot to the touch...
Let me explain: I exchanged c506, c406 with 47 µF 50V and c416, c417 with 470 µF 50V generic el cons. Was very satisfied with the sound so I let the player play for about 1-2 h.
Also, I've tried combination of 220 µF 50V caps on possitions c406 and c506...
After that I noticed that player is hoter then normal (it gets hot, but I think this time seemed a little hotter than usual), I opened it, and noticed that I can barely put a finger on IC904, 905 and 906, while IC901, 902 and 903 were only warm... (think that all ICs from this list are MC 7815CT. Also, IC401 (AD826) was little cooler to the touch, but still hot...
Strange thing is that IC904 has an heatsink (wich helps a little), while others (905,906) don't have them...
IC901, 902 and 903 have heatsinks also, but are only "plesently warm"...
TDA 1541 chip gets warm, but nothing more...
OK, this has been an long description, but the question is simple: Are regulators wich provide voltage to TDA chip and op-amps (I presume this is their task) supposed to get hot like this? Have I blown the DAC?
Opservation: Regulators get hot very quick when I turn the player ON (like in 1 min. time), but player works OK, with no aparent flaws in the sound. Also, player worked for 30 min. with no problems (didn't want to test it longer until I hear from you guys :))
Regulators act the same with and without the op-amps...
Help please? :confused: |
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| guytou |
| Hi,didn't you make accidentally a short -circuit on a supply line(with a drop of solder)?Or did'nt you mount a chimic cap upside down ? |
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| Kitjunky |
Some of the regs in my XB770 get extremely hot, far hotter than i would like if i was designing the unit. I think ifyou made any serious errors that the unit would not play correctly and would certainly not be sounding better. i would also recommend you double check the polarity of ur new cap's. if possible fit larger heatsinks to the reg's aswell.
Chris |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by guytou
Hi,didn't you make accidentally a short -circuit on a supply line(with a drop of solder)?Or did'nt you mount a chimic cap upside down ? |
Well, I do remember that I've accidently separated (in al lack of better expression) one of the legs of IC907 from the PCB (more like it was loose, not completly separated), and that player worked for an hour like that. After restoring the stock caps, I re-soldered it to the PCB... Maybe it "gave" TDA1541 too much juce? :eek:
As for the caps, all are mounted correctly (I triple check it) :angel:
| quote: | Originally posted by Kitjunky
Some of the regs in my XB770 get extremely hot, far hotter than i would like if i was designing the unit. I think ifyou made any serious errors that the unit would not play correctly and would certainly not be sounding better. i would also recommend you double check the polarity of ur new cap's. if possible fit larger heatsinks to the reg's aswell.
Chris |
It would be possible to fit heatsinks on the regulators that don't have tham, but I don't think it's the right way to go, simply because the regs were working without them for 20 years, so it must be OK? :hot:
In the TDA1541 datasheet it states that DAC itself draws about 45mA of current. This can't make it hot, or can it?
I'll check the regulators data sheets also to see how much current are they capable to deliver...
Thx for quick answers guys, please bear with me until I get to the bottom of this problem (or it isn't a problem, and I'm imagining it? :cannotbe: )
Any more suggestions?
Does TDA1541 get warm in operation and do voltage regulators of this type (wich power it) get extremly hot?
Cheers... :smash:
P.S. I will also have the sm for the player soon, so I'll check all the voltages around the DAC? |
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| Kitjunky |
I find it hard to accept that a fry'd dac chip drawing excesive current would still be sounding good, usually when theres a barbacue in the offering there's no sound or badly distorted sound:hot: .
did you actually check how hot things were before you started the mod:confused: cos its easy to start panicing when youve changed something
Been there, got the tea shirt;) |
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| guytou |
Yes , scorpio , would you mean that the player is much more hotter than before your mods , or you did'nt notice before ?
What i could say is on my CD 40 , the 1541 is just tepid , regs too , on can let a finger on , and surely if you get sound , the DAC is'nt fryed . regards . |
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| guytou |
| On the way , if you could'nt let a finger on the chips , one could suspect a unprevious thing is occuring , maybe worth to return to the stock topology , step by step , checking the temperature . |
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| Kitjunky |
There are 3 3pin regs in my XB770 that are so hot they can burn, thats just the way it is. dont forget most 3pin regs have thermal & overcurrent shutdown to.
Chris |
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| carlosfm |
| quote: | Originally posted by Kitjunky
There are 3 3pin regs in my XB770 that are so hot they can burn, thats just the way it is. dont forget most 3pin regs have thermal & overcurrent shutdown to.
Chris |
Why don't you put some small heatsinks there?
Sony didn't put heatsinks because they were too expensive.:clown:
The usual 78xx/79xx thinggies have a current limit of 150~200ma if not heatsinked. They can get extremely hot.
The player may be asking for more current, and they are not regulating very well. |
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| Kitjunky |
| They all ready are heatsinked and it doesnt bother me, I was just pointing out that hot doesnt nessaserilly mean theres a problem;) |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Hi,
Well, there are 3 things that make me suspect something is wrong:
1. Regulators heat up realy quickly (around 1min.).
Remember that all regulators here (MC7805CT,7815CT,7905CT,7915CT) are capable of delivering around 500 mA of current. TDA1541 needs: 5V, 45mA on pin 28, -5V, 45mA on pin 26 and -15V 25mV on pin15. Only regulators that are connected to the DAC are overheating, others are only warm...
2. Transformer in the power supply gets hot.
After 1h of playing, I cannot put a finger on the transformer for more then 1-2 sec.
3. The op-amp in position IC401 gets realy hot after 30min. - 1h, while op-amp in position IC501 is only warm.
I've changed the op-amp in the IC401 pos. but the problem is still there. I remember that both op-amps were only warm after long listening sessions.
My conclusion: Something is drawing a LOT of current. I suspect the DAC is the culprit, because only components directly connected to it are overheating.
My only problem is that I don't have a spare DAC to test my theory (only TDA1541A is alvaible)
With this symptoms, what do you guys think is the problem?
Cheers. :smash:
P.S. I think that a drop of solder (very small, found it with magnyfing glass) betwen in and out ports of one of the regulators started all my trouble. Seems that the DAC was fed 15V (due to short circuit) on one of it's 5v pins :dead: |
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| rfbrw |
| Have you changed IC401 or simply replaced it with the same type? |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by rfbrw
Have you changed IC401 or simply replaced it with the same type? |
At first, I replaced it with the same type (AD826), but after I've tryed ne5532 (stock configuration)...
Results were the same....
Note: AD826 was working in that place for 2 years now with no problems, until 2-3 days ago, when I messed something up :bawling:
Just bought and installed some new voltage regs, but still, everythings the same :(
Cheers :apathic:
P.S. I'm running out of ideas, maybe I'll take the player to local Sony service center in a few days.. :dodgy: |
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| carlosfm |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
P.S. I'm running out of ideas, maybe I'll take the player to local Sony service center in a few days.. :dodgy: |
Noooo:att'n:
Not a Sony service.:bawling:
They will skin you alive...
Are you sure you didn't mount a cap with reversed polarity after a regulator?
Also, check for shorts, follow the PSU tracks after the regs, measure.
Remove the TDA1541A dac chip and turn on the player.
Don't quit. |
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| Kitjunky |
If you have a digi multimeter why dont you measure the current drawn from each reg. then youll be able to find if and where its going. Please dont say you havnt got a meter. its an essential tool when doing this stuff:cannotbe:
Chris:) |
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| rfbrw |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
At first, I replaced it with the same type (AD826), but after I've tryed ne5532 (stock configuration)...
Results were the same....
Note: AD826 was working in that place for 2 years now with no problems, until 2-3 days ago, when I messed something up :bawling:
Just bought and installed some new voltage regs, but still, everythings the same :(
Cheers :apathic:
P.S. I'm running out of ideas, maybe I'll take the player to local Sony service center in a few days.. :dodgy: |
Have you checked the voltages around IC401? |
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| guytou |
| Hi , if your tensions are correct , you should try to disconnect the analog PS before the regs(even at the rectifiers,i haven't the shematics)and check if the temp becomes normal, if that , the mistake is in this section, anyway , there is a way , it's not dead yet ... |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by carlosfm
Noooo:att'n:
Not a Sony service.:bawling:
They will skin you alive... |
:D
Well, I was going to leave the unit there for diagnostic only (10$ or so), and, after that, if I don't like the price of the repair, I would try to do it myself :clown:
| quote: | Originally posted by carlosfm
Are you sure you didn't mount a cap with reversed polarity after a regulator?
Also, check for shorts, follow the PSU tracks after the regs, measure.
Remove the TDA1541A dac chip and turn on the player.
Don't quit. |
I'm quite sure, I triple-check it...
My thinking is in that way to ( the DAC, wich is an TDA1541 - rare damn! :mad: ). I'll desolder it form the PCB (wich is gonna be a real hassle :cannotbe: ), and try the player without it .... I presume it's safe?
BTW: I don't quit easylly :devilr:
| quote: | Originally posted by Kitjunky
If you have a digi multimeter why dont you measure the current drawn from each reg. then youll be able to find if and where its going. Please dont say you havnt got a meter. its an essential tool when doing this stuff:cannotbe:
Chris:) |
Well, I don't have an digital one - mine is analog :clown:
| quote: | Originally posted by rfbrw
Have you checked the voltages around IC401? |
THX, I'll check them...
| quote: | Originally posted by guytou
Hi , if your tensions are correct , you should try to disconnect the analog PS before the regs(even at the rectifiers,i haven't the shematics)and check if the temp becomes normal, if that , the mistake is in this section, anyway , there is a way , it's not dead yet ... |
I don't consider it a gonner yet ...
It still has an bypass mod to do in the future ... :devilr:
I'm going to take a break from troubleshooting for a day or two to relax(been snooping inside this player for days now, and lost my nervs and patience )...
After that, gonna buy a socket for the DAC, and then try all the suggestions...
If things get realy bad, there is allways the service centar :eek:
Just to say thanks to you guys for staying in the game all this time :grouphug:
Cheers... |
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| carlosfm |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
My thinking is in that way to ( the DAC, wich is an TDA1541 - rare damn! :mad: ). I'll desolder it form the PCB (wich is gonna be a real hassle :cannotbe: ), and try the player without it .... I presume it's safe? |
Yes, it's safe.
BTW put a socket there. |
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| guytou |
Hi scorpio , desolder the 1541 is , at my sense ,not a good idea:att'n: : If you are thinking thats a problem in the 1541 relative to the PS , it's better to isolate it by cutting the 3 paths (+5,-5,-15).The result would be the same but you would'nt stress (thermically/mechanically)the poor 1541 !That was the same idea for the analog section , just for checking the temp .
2- :att'n: a thing i've never heard on theses forum ,you MUST solder only with a low voltage soldering station , i've already fryed a digital filter (YM3414) with a 220V iron ! |
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| guytou |
| 3-putting the 1541 on a socket would be a bad idea , :xeye: regarding the frequency it works . |
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| guido |
Hi,
If you have opamps doing the i/v conversion, removing the tda will most definitely give you a hot ps: the opamps draw a lot of current with the - pen not connected :D |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Hi,
I've checked voltages on TDA's and IC401 and IC501's pins...
All voltages are normal( TDA p15: -15V, p26: -5V, p28: 5V, IC401: p4: -15V, p8: 15V, IC501: p4: -15V, p8: 15V).
Because it isn't safe to just "disable" the tda1541 (Guido's observation), can I "disable" the TDA (by isolating it's supply pins) and remove the opamps too, and then see if regulators are getting hot? :scratch:
THX,
Cheers... |
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| rfbrw |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
Hi,
I've checked voltages on TDA's and IC401 and IC501's pins...
All voltages are normal( TDA p15: -15V, p26: -5V, p28: 5V, IC401: p4: -15V, p8: 15V, IC501: p4: -15V, p8: 15V).
Because it isn't safe to just "disable" the tda1541 (Guido's observation), can I "disable" the TDA (by isolating it's supply pins) and remove the opamps too, and then see if regulators are getting hot? :scratch:
THX,
Cheers... |
Have you checked the voltages on the others pins of the opamps ? Having the input or the output pins at the supply rails in a sign something may be wrong.
BTW is the TDA1541 getting hot? I once had a dead one and it was too hot to touch. |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Haven't check other pins of the op-amps, just the supply ones... (will check the ins and outs)
TDA gets "a litlle warmer then warm" :clown: after an hour of working...
Cheers... |
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| guido |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
Hi,
Because it isn't safe to just "disable" the tda1541 (Guido's observation), can I "disable" the TDA (by isolating it's supply pins) and remove the opamps too, and then see if regulators are getting hot? :scratch:
THX,
Cheers... |
You can connect the unused opamp pens to ground. DAC output is range is -4mA to 0mA. Connecting to ground would be equal to dac output=0mA, so a valid option. :smash: |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Hi everyone,
Sorry for the delay, but I was very busy these couple of weeks. :o
As for the cd-player, it seems that it's supposed to run that hot, and that it's normal - I test it for couple of days, and it still plays (Whenever it runs for a long time, it lets off an funny smell of heating electronics, and it has been like that allways :hot: )
Sorry for bothering you with it, but I'm one paranoid man when it comes to electronics :clown:
OK, back to tweaking....
The capacitor change has improved the sound (fuller sound, better midrange, less sibilance), but I'm very anctious to try the passive I/V mod :cool:
I've attached an image with the modified diagram of the player's analog section (Thx a lot James! ;) ):
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4299815&a=31727927&p=71870156
The red dots indicate the connections to break, and green coloured stuff represents added elements, and their placement...
Question: Should I use an nice 4,7 µF poly-propilene, or somethin else?
I was thinking to add an gain stage bettwen A and C, and B and D, something like this (dual) with OP275 op-amp, without input capacitor (1 is already in the diagram), with gain set to 5...
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4299815&a=31727927&p=71870157
Your toughs?
Cheers :smash: |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
Any sugestions?
Cheers...:smash: |
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| rfbrw |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
Any sugestions?
Cheers...:smash: |
Does the gain stage have to be solid-state? |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by rfbrw
Does the gain stage have to be solid-state? |
Well, I've never worked with tubes so far, they seem rather dificult to implement correctly (more things can go wrong :dead: ).
Maybe I'll try that in not so distant future, when I do more research on them. :dodgy:
I also have the afformentioned stage already build (serving as my headphone amp. at the moment), so it's a easyer way to go :clown:
I was wondering if I the idea posted in my previus post is OK?
Also, wich (and what kind) of capacitor should I use?
Apprishiate the help...
Cheers... |
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| rfbrw |
| quote: | Originally posted by Scorpio(DDMF)!
Well, I've never worked with tubes so far, they seem rather dificult to implement correctly (more things can go wrong :dead: ).
Maybe I'll try that in not so distant future, when I do more research on them. :dodgy:
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I've always found the solid state stuff to be less robust.
| quote: |
I also have the afformentioned stage already build (serving as my headphone amp. at the moment), so it's a easyer way to go :clown:
I was wondering if I the idea posted in my previus post is OK?
Also, wich (and what kind) of capacitor should I use?
Apprishiate the help...
Cheers... |
Your diagram is not clear enough for me to make out what you have done. It looks like you have hung a pair of capacitors off the outputs and thats it. Are there any resistors grounding the outputs? |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by rfbrw
Your diagram is not clear enough for me to make out what you have done. It looks like you have hung a pair of capacitors off the outputs and thats it. Are there any resistors grounding the outputs? |
I haven't done anything yet :angel:
About the resistors: Yes, there are two resistors on the diagram - green things resembeling resistor symbols (didn't labeled them dough :cannotbe: ), wich are connecting TDA's AOL and AOR outputs to the ground - they are much easyer to spot on the Hi-res version of the picture (just click on the "normal" picture). These resistors were ment to be 100 ohm, like suggested.
Also, the red dots indicate connections that should be dissconnected, while green dots are the new connections.
I'm not sure about caps size and type...
Also, I'm wondering what would be the best metod to dissconect the rest of circuit behind the DAC, as soon as I add passive I/V. Would simple removing of op-amps IC501 and IC401 do the trick?
Cheers. |
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| rfbrw |
Looks like you have 4 passive components as well as the IC connected to each output. You may well have to cut the track somewhere unless you choose to socket the chip and let the output pins float.
As to resistor size, this forum is full of suggestions as a search will show. |
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| cylau |
Hi friends,
I have a CDP-222ESD.
When I pressed the "load" button, a motor locking sound is heard but the disk compartment cannot be ejected. I have dis-assembly the player and replace the rubber ring. However the problem still happens. I found that there is a cap acoss the loading motor. Do everyone have the idea on how to solve this problem?
Tommy Lau |
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| amel |
| Pozdrav, ja imam sony 227esd sa dva tda1541koji rade u paraleli pa ako se mozes javiti sa konacnim rezultatom o tvom twikanju da znam sta je najbolje za uraditi. |
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| ianatkins |
Hey there
This is my first post as a first timer, glad to see there are some who keep their old stuff going!
I also have a CDP222ESD which actually isn't going, as I managed to swap obver the two identical connectors ont he motherboard after glueing the linear tray gear back together.
Does anyone have schematic detail of the tray and motor drive circuits? I'd like to try and fix it.
Used to be a good machine... |
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| Scorpio(DDMF)! |
| quote: | Originally posted by amel
Pozdrav, ja imam sony 227esd sa dva tda1541koji rade u paraleli pa ako se mozes javiti sa konacnim rezultatom o tvom twikanju da znam sta je najbolje za uraditi. |
Izvinjavam se na kasnom odgovoru, nisam primetio ovaj post...
Nazalost, Sony je samo povrshno tweak-ovan i na standby-u je do danjeg :(
Kada (i ako) budem zavrshio ovaj "projekat", sigurno cu napisati follow-up u ovoj temi.
Pozdrav!
| quote: | Originally posted by ianatkins
Hey there
This is my first post as a first timer, glad to see there are some who keep their old stuff going!
I also have a CDP222ESD which actually isn't going, as I managed to swap obver the two identical connectors ont he motherboard after glueing the linear tray gear back together.
Does anyone have schematic detail of the tray and motor drive circuits? I'd like to try and fix it.
Used to be a good machine... |
If you could kindly state your email, I can send you the circuit diagram of the player. Sadly, I haven't obtained the full SM yet...
Cheers! |
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