| funkymunkey90 |
Hello to all, ok so I decided to make my own DIY projector, hopefully fewer than $300, $400 tops if I can, and my time frame is 3 month. I’m doing this for a project for class in the middle of April, and I hope to have it fully done and functional by then. So I’ve been reading the forums for about 2 weeks and have learned more then I thought I would, I’m going to be making a 45 min presentation and direction which I will release here in the forums when its all done.
The Plan:
Ok so I want to use 2 mirrors to try and conserve space and keep the light cool and low on UVs by using one cooling mirror and a mirror with a UV filer on it. I’m going to find a 7” LCD liliput display, since that’s what I see everyone else is using. I still have questions and I’ll keep looking for the answers or I’ll ask here if I can’t find it within the next week or two. I plan on ordering part in a week from now.
1.) I’m rethinking about using a strait shot projector, but I want to keep it less than 2 feet long, would this be possible?
2.) Wiring the ballast and the power to the display and fans are where I’m lacking in knowledge, does anyone have and schematics or know where I can find some?
3.) Can anyone point me in the right direction to where I can get plans for a light box that’s small and easy to replace the bulb when need be.
2 mirror layout |
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| HiLLBiLLY |
Welcome to the forum funkymonkey....
| quote: | | 1.) I’m rethinking about using a strait shot projector, but I want to keep it less than 2 feet long, would this be possible? |
Yes it can be done, the first projector I made was around the 2 foot mark (straight design) I had cooling issues with it though un-fortuneately but could of been rectified with additional fans.
| quote: | | 2.) Wiring the ballast and the power to the display and fans are where I’m lacking in knowledge, does anyone have and schematics or know where I can find some? |
The wiring is very basic bud, postive and negative can't really go wrong , I used terminal blocks on mine which made it simple and neat.
| quote: | | 3.) Can anyone point me in the right direction to where I can get plans for a light box that’s small and easy to replace the bulb when need be |
I made a very simple light box using 1mm aluminium sheet, 80mm fan guards with centres cut out and threaded rods with washes and nuts.
You can check it out on my thread, its on around page 14 for memory or my website has close up pictures and measurements also
Good luck with your projector matey, look forward to seeing it all come together :-) |
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| funkymunkey90 |
Ok so now the time has come to do some purchasing, hopefully next week I’ll be able to get parts in through the mail, I know eBay is my best friend as long as I know what to look for.
LCD: I’m going back and forth between the liliput 7” and the Innovatek 7”. The innovatek cost more, but can get a higher resolution and I think a few more easier connection but I’ve hear is harder to work with then the liliput which I hear great things about and is cheaper and easier to use.
Innovatek 7" LCD
Light engine: not quite too sure yet where or what to get but I’m only able to buy one thing a week so I have another week to decide. If anyone knows a good place to purchase ballast, light, and ceramic connectors for the light, cheaply then please do share, as well as any suggestions on which to get.
Cooling: I have access to a lot of fans and I’ll be using some normal computer fans as well, I came across something interesting the other day too for cooling, 320 watt thermoelectric peltier cooler. They seem like they would be useful, any thoughts on them?
thermoelectric peltier cooler
Mirror / filters: Where do I find them? I’ve searched for some UV and cooler mirrors, and found very little and expensive to choose from, where can I look to just get the clear filters and apply them to mirrors or use them on there own in a strait shot projector? I’m also guessing I can get then fresnel and lens set from lumen labs and just cut them down to size around the center, would this work of mess up the fresnel?
fresnel and lens from lumenlabs
Case: I was thinking of using an old 486 case, it’s square and wide enough by the looks of it, but until I get the parts and pieces, I can’t say for sure. I know aluminum would be best for heat distribution, but would plywood with a flat black fire retardant paint work as well with little chance of catching fire?
Just a few thoughts |
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| nick[x1] |
Like the lcd, shame delivery is so expencive as i would prob get one for my projector.
About the cooler thing, your going to need a good psu to keep that going good so that means something else giving off heat
And what do you plan on cooling with it?
Cant really help on uv stuff as i cant find anything well diyprojectorcomapny sell them actually not sure on what sizes
Some input :smash: |
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| tawamiami |
| the innovatek is supposed to require many ffc extensions, and it has exactly the same resolution as the lilliput. one viable replacement could be this 8" hami. it has been used before, has an 800x600 native resolution, and gets to you for 200 shipped. It requires one ffc extension that is easy to get. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ssPageName=WDVW |
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| chbright |
pelters was that a "Property" design (if any of u get the joke u been here a long time)?
i wouldnt suggest usen one in this aplication. it can remove gobs of heat but it needs a sorce to dump it to, and unless u are thinkin of having a water cooled set (another Property idea), and this is again not a good time to use it, it will burn whaterver u are tring to cool up (seen it happen when people try to cool cpus).
most just use fans (simple and effective).
other than that you look to have a good plan.
not to hijack the tread, but has anyone tried a 17" monitor (not the sgi widescreen, i know bout those). the price has dropped reciently and i've been wondering about them |
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| HiLLBiLLY |
| Looked into pelts myself 12months or so ago for my cpu cooling...aside from the already mentioned excess heat they produce on the hot side that needs to be cooled (watercooling is pretty much a must here with a pelt over 80watt) You also need a dedicated switching power supply like a Meanwell...a normal psu from a computer will work but wont run a pelt at its optimum as it doesnt produce enogh volts for pelts..and again as has been stated already...totally un-necassary for use in a PJ as fans are adequate. |
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| bulletmagnet |
Hi funky
This 7" lilliput is probably the best in regards to NO FFC issues and one of the best resolution 7" LCD's around "1,520,000 pixels (2400x480 dots)
lilliput 7"( Ebay)
As for your FS mirors give Anchor Optical surplus a try, they have surplus mirros plus condersers etc from Edmund Optical, and there cheap...;)
Cold mirror from DIYprojector.com
Fresnel....well there are a few around LumenLab will cut them for you as well for a small price...
Good luck with your PJ, cant wait to see your results.
Cheers... ;) |
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| TaskMaster |
| Are you guys talking about the Innovatek IN-007VG because it seems to me to be about $60 cheaper than the Lilliput shipped in the US. In this thread here Monz and a buddy have disassembled the Innovatek and state that it is pretty much a clone of the Lilliput with the same internals and screen (and no ffc issues). For under $200 the Innovatek seems to be a better deal. Is there somewhere that the Lilliput is available for less than that? I ask since in the beginning of the thread there is a link to the Innovatek eBay auction that was about $200 shipped, yet he says the Lilliput is cheaper. Please point out if I am missing something because I may try and get one of these... I am on the fence. |
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| bulletmagnet |
TaskMaster it looks to me from re-reading funkys post that he is not comparing the same spec 7" LCD's
Quote LCD: I’m going back and forth between the liliput 7” and the Innovatek 7”. The innovatek cost more, but can get a higher resolution and I think a few more easier connection but I’ve hear is harder to work with then the liliput which I hear great things about and is cheaper and easier to use.
For me in Australia its only a few dollars difference between the same spec LCD's ie Innovatek and the lilliput
Cheers...;) |
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| funkymunkey90 |
Well is seems like its time for another update yet again, I went a head and order the Innovatek IN007vg 7” LCD it seems like a better buy for the quality and it should be arriving by the end of next week.
I’m right now looking at a few different options for light sources I think I found a cheaper solution then purchasing the diyprojectorcompany 250w kit. There are two companies that I was looking at and each sells a different part needed. One is a light bulb that goes for 30 US and the other sells a 250w ballast for 56 US, 86 for a ballast and light bulb vs 159 for the ballast lamp and lamp holders. Before I go through with it I’d like to get some input to see if it will work out the only thing I do not under stand is what CWA means on the ballast and what’s the difference from quad tap and multi tap,.
So the question is which of these route should I go?
Diyprojectorcompany – 159 for ballast lamp and lamp holders
or
Lightingco – the 30 dollar light
Lightingco - 110 dollar ballast
lightingco recommends this combination
or
Lightingco – the 30 light bulb
Eligths – ballast
all for around 85 US
The main questions:
Will the last option work?
What does CWA mean?
Whats the deferens between multi tap and quad tap on ballasts? |
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| TaskMaster |
| quote: | Originally posted by funkymunkey90
=Will the last option work?
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Yes.
| quote: | Originally posted by funkymunkey90
=What does CWA mean?
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It refers to the how the circuit containing the ballast, capacitor, and lamp are wired and operate. CWA stands for Constant Wattage Autotransformer.
| quote: | Originally posted by funkymunkey90
=Whats the deferens between multi tap and quad tap on ballasts? |
The difference is the supply voltages on which the ballast may operate. A quad tap can be supplied by one of four voltages (typically 120, 208, 240, or 277 volts). A muti tap means that the ballast may be supplied by at least two different voltages e.g. a 120/277V. I'm not a big fan of the bulb you've chosen for it's size. It will be difficult to get a good reflector and condensor running so you will be losing a good deal of light. |
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| funkymunkey90 |
Thanks taskmaster I went and changed the light bulb from the one above to the lamp from diyprojectorcompany.com I also went and got the ceramic holders and the reflector from them, the cost is about the same not including the holders and the reflector, but now I know I have a few parts that are going to work well with one another. I found a ballast for a little less cost at 1000bulbs.com
Parts I have left to look for:
Ballast – think I found one
Power supply – I’m guessing a 240 watt computer power supply slightly modded to connect to all the parts is what i need to do, am I correct in thinking so?
Mirror – a FS cold mirror is what I’m looking for right now, does anybody know where I can find one? I know I can get it cut at a local hardware store.
Lens
Frensel
Condenser
Does anyone know what the math that I need to take into consideration when looking for these parts?
Has anyone looked into using a polarizer? I know that they can help with more vibrant colors and such but would they reduce the brightness of the picture and would they help and be worth it enough?
And thanks again to everone fro there help, with now only a little under 2 months to go before i need to finish this project |
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| arduck |
| quote: | Originally posted by funkymunkey90
Well is seems like its time for another update yet again, I went a head and order the Innovatek IN007vg 7” LCD it seems like a better buy for the quality and it should be arriving by the end of next week.
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Please post your experience stripping the Innovatek when you get to it.
Thanks |
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| funkymunkey90 |
| no worries i will document every screw i take out, i just hope i don't destroy it in the process...but i plan on making a PDF of the whole project mainly for my class makes who might be interested in doing the same thing, i'll find a way to distribute it online as well when i finish it |
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| funkymunkey90 |
Finally the Innvotek 7" showed up and it works great!!! So crisp and clean, its small and light weight and has a very powerful built in speaker which i plan on keeping in the projector for portable sound when I bring it on the go with me. This weekend I plan on doing a preliminary disassemble, I’ll be taking pictures of it but I don't think I’ll go that far into it yet. I’ll post up what I find for everyone.
Keep in mind if you have one or choose to get one of these beauties that it does not come with a wall mount power supply, mainly because they are meant to be used in cars. In the US there is a lovely little store called radio shack, they have the universal power supply thing, which is basically the wall mount and an adapter that plug into the wall mount. I found that the "M" size adapter is what fits nice and snug and works well. I’ll post pictures of what I’m talking about when I can.
I’m still waiting on more parts to show up, the ballast form elights should show up soon, I decided to go with the double ended light from diyprojectorcompany since they also sell the connectors and a reflector as well, its been nearly 2 weeks since I put the order in and yet it still hasn't been shipped, its still in processing, is this normal or am I just special?
I’m looking at the fresnel set from lumenlabs and a condenser and lens form surplusshed.com. I’m still a little iffy about what to use as a power source for everything, if anyone knows of what to use then please do tell. |
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| skiguy411 |
| I ordered the same Innvotek from mp3playerstore.com on the 17th. Does it really takes about 2 - 3 weeks to ship it to the US? Did you have any way to track it after it left Canada? |
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| TaskMaster |
| In the US MP3playerstore says they ship from Vermont. |
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| funkymunkey90 |
TaskMaster: no it actually does come from Canada, i have the shipping label here, it also has to go through customs.
skiguy411: well it is 2-3 days.....after it goes through customs, once the order was placed and the money went through paypal it was hipped to the US the next day, and hit customs and waited there for about 2-3 days and then was shipped to me. So in total it was about a week of shipping and a few business days waiting for the money to go through, so yea about a week and a half |
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| TaskMaster |
| I believe that's where yours came from - I wonder why they have told me they would ship from the US and they do note the shipping method as USPS Priority Mail. Odd. |
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| rth |
| quote: | | Finally the Innvotek 7" showed up and it works great!!! So crisp and clean, |
I see that it lists a contrast ratio of 150:1... I wonder if this is a meaningless relative value when comparing to a ~450:1 monitor or if it really has significance? :scratch: |
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| HiLLBiLLY |
| 150:1 is very low and will be noticeable when its projected |
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| skiguy411 |
I recieved a tracking number from them through the Canadian Post office. This is all it shows:
2005/02/22 16:53 Arrival in destination country
2005/02/22 03:29 Dispatched from origin country
2005/02/21 21:25 Dispatched from Canada
2005/02/21 19:51 MONTREAL, QC Received/processed at sortation facility
Were you able to track yours after it came to the US? |
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| TaskMaster |
| quote: | Originally posted by HiLLBiLLY
150:1 is very low and will be noticeable when its projected |
From the pictures I have seen and what people have posted - the Innovatek is a clone of the Lilliput with the exact same LCD screen. |
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| TaskMaster |
| The Hercules Prophetview 720 and Samsung 151MP have the exact same LCD panel yet the companies report different specs. I don't see how an LCD panel can have a different contrast ratio depending upon who installs it, so I assume it is a marketing ploy. |
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| funkymunkey90 |
Ok so now its time to do a preliminary take apart of the Innovatek 7” TFT-LCD Monitor. Keep this in mind, this is the first time taking this one apart and putting it back together, I took some measurements that I need to make a mount for it. I have yet to dismantle the panel; I’ll be doing that after I have a mount ready for the panel, UV glass, and fresnels. I’ll be making documentation on that part of the project as well.
Step one: Making sure it works.
As you can see I have an Xbox plugged in through video 3. It has a little glare but I had to set up a light in order to get good pics. Ok so now we know it works, take the time to unplug everything and get ready to dismantle the case.
Step two: Finding all the outside screws and opening the case.
Here is a pic of the back, it looks as if there are only 5 screws, however, in mine I found only 4. The blue circle shows a hold that would lead you to think there is a case screw in there, there wasn’t one in mine but there may be one in others. The yellow circles indicate the only 4 screws that I could find, they only seem to hold on the back plate and other then that, they have no purpose.
See, it’s all they hold. The case is only held together by snaps, just by applying a little bit of pressure and pulling them apart SLOWLY!!! It should pop right off, did for me.
Step three: Looking around inside, and cables.
BECARFUL!!! This is the inside of the case; there are some long and short cables in there. Disconnecting the cables isn’t hard, just don’t yank them they may rip apart.
Red: the tan latch is small, just pop it up by rotating it 90 degrees, make sure no to just pull out the 40 pin FFC wire. Firmly grip the blue backside and the wire together and pull out the wire slowly, it should just come right out.
Yellow: this is a smaller FFC cable, it is just held in by pressure, again just hold the wire and blue backing and pull out slowly, slides right out.
Blue: Now is just the LCD power cables for the light on the inside of the LCD panel. I’ll show how to take that apart at a later date.
Step four: Removing the control board.
this step is very simple, there are only four screws that hold the board down, two of which are hidden by a piece of electrical tape that protects the two protruding cables highlighted in red, and a heat shield in the opposite corner. When taking out the board from the back of the case remember there is an audio jack and the video 3 jack that protrude through the case, so lift it out at an angle. There is also a cable connecting the one lonely speaker to the control board highlighted in yellow, it just unplugs easily, and if you notice there is also a second speaker plug. I may feel like taking apart an old speaker set to include in the projector box
Step Five: Removing the LCD panel and buttons.
This is the simplest part, only four screws hold in the LCD panel itself to the case, along with a piece of metal as well. Just unscrew and remove the metal, and lightly pull up. The buttons on the panel are just two screws, yet again just unscrew and remove.
Step Six: Plugging everything back in and testing.
I think this step is self explanatory, just make sure no metal leads or wire ends are touching, or else you may short out the board and wasted $200.
Hope this is helpful, if you have any questions just ask
If anyone else has anything to add feel free to do so. |
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| funkymunkey90 |
lol skyguy411 you posted while i was posting in your forum about what i think the spacing is for everything, and again i do not know if I’m right at all or not.
O and also I got the ballast, I’m going to start mooching up a mount for that and hopefully have a metal mount ready to be built this weekend. |
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| skiguy411 |
| Hey, Do you happen to have the length, width, and height of the stripped lcd? I'm trying to throw this all together in autocad before I start building it. The last project I did cost a lot of money because of poor planing. I dont wanna repeat that again! |
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| cindyh1111 |
Could you explain for me in detail exactly what you did for a wall plug? Do you have a part number for the adaptor, etc, you got at radio shack? Also, what did you do about the eight pin connector? I bought my Innovatek just to use as a monitor for a shuttle computer, and I just didn't want to take any chances of frying the little guy.
Thanks a lot -- I thought i'd have to send it back until i stumbled on your post.:) |
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| funkymunkey90 |
skiguy411: i only have the measurements for the LCD panel, with out all the removed pieces I have yet to take it apart, but his is what I have, 18.5 cm wide, 11.5 cm tall, 1 cm depth, that is the over all extents of the aluminum LCD housing
cindyh1111: at Radioshack here in the US they have what’s known as a universal power adaptor, they come in different voltages and are either AC or DC. What you want to find is a 12v DC, if its AC don't worry it just will not work. If what you get is over 12v then you have to worry, it may burn out the LCD or control board. Anyways, the power supply has an exchangeable tip on the end of the wire, there you just plug in the "M" size tip and you’re done
hope this stuff helps. |
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| skiguy411 |
For the wall plug, I did the same thing. However, instead of using radioshacks tips though, I cut their little connector thing off and took the Innovatek car adapter included with the LCD and soldered it to the leads coming from the power supply. This way I was able to keep the fuse on it which provides extra safety.
Here is a picture
Make sure you get the 12v 500mA version from radio shack though. |
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| funkymunkey90 |
| quote: | Originally posted by skiguy411
Make sure you get the 12v 500mA version from radio shack though. |
I have the 1500mA as you can see....I’m going to start off and say I’m not an electrician, far from it. Would you happen to know if that extra 1000mA is going to hurt it? Also good job on the cable mod, thought these power supplies had built in protection. |
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| skiguy411 |
| quote: | Originally posted by funkymunkey90
I have the 1500mA as you can see....I�m going to start off and say I�m not an electrician, far from it. Would you happen to know if that extra 1000mA is going to hurt it? Also good job on the cable mod, thought these power supplies had built in protection. |
Oops, should have put at least the 500 mA verison. Yeah 1500mA should be fine. Im not so sure about the built in protection but hey you can never have enough! |
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| TaskMaster |
The mA rating of the plug is what it is capable of providing. The actual current (I) is dictated by your supply voltage (V) and the resistive load of your LCD (R) by the relationship
V = I x R or I = V/R
Just because the supply is capable of 1500mA, doesn't mean that is what it will always put out. It should be no problem to use. |
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| Coffee Addict |
Hey Funkymunkey90,
Could you please contact me at: fortymlshot(at)yahoo(dot)com?
I live in Northern Virginia and would like to ask you some questions about your Innovatek 7". Just like everybody else in these forums, I am getting ready to order parts and items needed for my first DIY projector.
Thanks!
Javier |
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| funkymunkey90 |
| Here is a question to all those out there, who have made a 7" projector, where do you find a 7" fresnel? Can i just buy a bigger fresnel and cut it down to size a little off each side so that the center is still in the middle? |
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| HiLLBiLLY |
| quote: | | Can i just buy a bigger fresnel and cut it down to size a little off each side so that the center is still in the middle? |
Thats exactly what you do buddy :-) |
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| 82spider |
The DIY Projector Comapny store has Fresnell lenses in 7"
http://www.diyprojectorcompany.com/catalog/index.php
I do have a question regarding focal lengths though. I attached a drawing(excuse the crudeness.) Am I right that you want to match the focal length of the Fresnell with the "Effective" focal length of the lens? And the rear focal length ends up being shorter?
If that's how it is, has anyone tried the 80mm lens from DIY Projector Company? Is that 330mm effective length? What is the rear focal length?
Thanks! |
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| funkymunkey90 |
| quote: | Originally posted by HiLLBiLLY
Thats exactly what you do buddy :-) |
k thnx helps out now i can look for the right fresnel ^__^ happy day
o and i get an email from Allen at diyprojectorcompany.com, he said there is a back order on several parts including the lights, which is was i ordered....i emailed him back asking if he knew for sure if i would or wouldn't get the parts before April 1st....if its a no i gota find new parts |
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| skiguy411 |
| Please let me know if you do find another light source. I also receieved the backorder email from diyprojectorcompany. You would think he would update his site to tell us it was on backorder before we ordered....Oh well, at least he did send us a email... |
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| skiguy411 |
| Know where to get a ballast to match? (the 250w) |
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| TaskMaster |
Sure. Here is an electronic ballast. Here is a magnetic ballast and here is another. Here is a magnetic ballast from Businesslights.com which is a site I recently ordered from. Good communication and not stocked items were shipped within a week. I think they were also the cheapest including shipping by a dollar or two.
Of course, you may like eBay, in which case here is a good seller with an Icecap 250W electronic ballast with a buy-it-now price shipped for $125, which is a fair deal.
If you've got the cash you'll be happier with an electronic ballast IMHO. Hope I've helped.;) |
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| ace3000_1 |
| quote: | Originally posted by 82spider
The DIY Projector Comapny store has Fresnell lenses in 7"
http://www.diyprojectorcompany.com/catalog/index.php
I do have a question regarding focal lengths though. I attached a drawing(excuse the crudeness.) Am I right that you want to match the focal length of the Fresnell with the "Effective" focal length of the lens? And the rear focal length ends up being shorter?
If that's how it is, has anyone tried the 80mm lens from DIY Projector Company? Is that 330mm effective length? What is the rear focal length?
Thanks! |
$45 for a 7inch frensel thats only 92% transmisive? Kinda steep.
You can get the front surface mirror he has and what the DBG carries from stained glass wharehouse for $29 for 2 12"x16" sheets lol, and its cr@p. Ive tried it, cruser sent me some ages ago.
Trev:) |
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| skiguy411 |
| Would you recommend the icecap or the ARO? |
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| TaskMaster |
| From my reef days I've always liked the Icecap products and that eBayer has great feedback for quick shipping. I have no experience with the ARO but have seen one or two posts claiming they run a tad hotter. |
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| skiguy411 |
| Thanks taskmaster. I'll probably go with the Icecap. |
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| jcbklyny |
| quote: | | You can get the front surface mirror he has and what the DBG carries from stained glass wharehouse for $29 for 2 12"x16" sheets lol, and its cr@p. Ive tried it, cruser sent me some ages ago. |
Just to note - You can also buy them at Lumenlab. And I'm pushing higher grade mirrors now. I no longer push those mirrors.
- JCB
DBG - Builder Group |
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