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The HotRod Aleph Circuit Board - Click HERE for Original Thread
Blues
With Mr. Pass and several of the moderators of this forum giving their nod, I think I am ready to offer the HotRod Aleph circuit boards. The boards are configurable for use as Aleph 2, 3, 4, 5, 30, 60 and yes it is also X-rated. I am taking this chance to get Grey Rollins’ permission to include the X. My plan is to give back part of the sales to the forum…which without it this project won’t reach the majority of DIYers. It is also my way of saying “Thanks!”. The forum has always been an inspiration and a way to learn and keep up with what’s out there for our hobby.

Four 3”x12 1/8”boards make up a stereo set and it will be priced for $50 a set. $5 will go to the forum for every stereo set sold. Every sale will be made in the forum through a wiki which I guess will be set up. Interested buyers will go to the Donation page and put in $5 for every stereo set they’re planning to buy. I haven’t figured out how I am going to accept payments but for sure personal checks will be accepted. If things go well, my projected availability of the boards will probably be early March. I won’t be collecting from you unless the boards are ready and your donations have cleared. Of course you are encouraged to donate more.

I will be choosing a volunteer willing to try the prototype boards for an Aleph 2 or 60. The volunteer will have to be experienced and willing to stuff the board and test it (multimeter, oscilloscope, variac). Someone who has all the parts at his disposal as soon as the proto boards come out is a candidate. A channel of the boards should be tested and ready in a month(?). I would like somebody else to do this and form his own opinion of the design. Besides I need the money that I have for the first order with the board house. I have confidence in the design but this will settle all doubts before DIYers part with their money. The prototype boards will be free to the volunteer and donation will be his discretion. Volunteers please come forward.

For now I will limit the number of DIYers who would want to view the design. Bryan Pederson, Hugo (Netlist), Highbias, Grey are the first ones that come to mind. Nelson was the first one but without the X option yet. Some details on the design…includes trimmer pot positions for tuning front end bias, tuning AC current gain, tuning R19, compensation cap positions on all Alephs, easy configuration with a few jumpers, R0 available on all designs, circuit design integrity, terminal block positions for all wiring including LED, X capability with additional set of boards, X up to 6 pairs of output devices each side, 2 oz. PCB copper, solder mask, Aleph 2 silkscreen, component layout will be provided for all other Alephs, can start with any of the Aleph designs and configure to another…stay tuned.

Hoping for your support.
:)
jacco vermeulen
That is THE initiative this forum has been waiting for !
Way to go, Blues !
Jarno
Hello Blues,

I am very interested in your project, but I would like to know more about the boards and the schematic. Why not discuss these things in the same way we have in the past (MOX, AlephX etc.)?
Are you using the original schematic, or are some of the proposed tweaks incorporated in the boards (see "top ten ways to improve aleph" thread)?

Regards,

Jarno.
macka
I am happy to sponsor a prototype if you wish as I have stock of all parts for either versions.

macka
metalman
Great initiative Blues. I will definitely support this. Just let me know when and how. I'd offer to act as a volunteer to test the prototypes, but I don't have the necessary equipment (scope etc...) to give you the feedback you're looking for.

Terry
Badge
I also look forward to this project. Thanks for taking it on.
Blues
These boards support the original schematics by Nelson and Grey's AX. Incorporated are trimmer positions for tuning it as you please. Tweaks as some of the past builders did like reducing the offset with adjustment of R14 and R19, AC current gain with R21. On the X too but with just a trimmer and not in series or parallel with a fixed resistor as in Grey's schematic. Replacement of these trimmers with fixed resistors is available and recommended as metal film types are better off across variations in temp.

Thanks to the responses...I'll look up the threads suggested by Jarno. I'll answer questions and proposals as we go. I will choose someone with building experience of the circuits and test equipment. I can also choose 2 builders for each channel (stereo set are mirror images). If both like it they can split for the price of a new set of boards to complete the stereo set.

Let's keep this flowing...

Allan
Blues
Merry Christmas!

Macka, will you be able to test the boards?

Grey, still waiting for your "Yes" as I guess all the DIYers interested in the boards will love to have the X option too. I can send the board design to you if you're interested.

Please post questions re the boards so I can address them and clear up stuff.
JasonL
quote:
Originally posted by Blues
Merry Christmas!

Macka, will you be able to test the boards?

Grey, still waiting for your "Yes" as I guess all the DIYers interested in the boards will love to have the X option too. I can send the board design to you if you're interested.

Please post questions re the boards so I can address them and clear up stuff.

Can you send me a copy too please to look at ?
Blues
"For now I will limit the number of DIYers who would want to view the design. Bryan Pederson, Hugo (Netlist), Highbias, Grey are the first ones that come to mind. Nelson was the first one but without the X option yet." quote from 1st post

JasonL,
To prevent what might turn into endless discussion that might delay production the above stands for now. But I'll surely post a picture of the proto boards once they come out. The choosen builder(s) using the protos will have a look at the design first. I can address any question about the boards though.

Regards,
Allan
kilowattski
What is your plan for the boards once you get them built and debugged? Are you going to have a group buy or offer the layouts to the forum?
Blues
Either way will work as long as the user will donate to the forum. The board design is I'd say debugged circuitwise. The only concern is if there are hidden capacitive/inductive effect of the traces that would negatively contribute to the circuit.
Blues
We hit a little snag with this project. The boardhouse is having a problem converting the AutoCAD DXF file into a workable Gerber version. We suspect it has something to do with the traces being drawn as solid 3D and not 2D. The silkscreen is in 2D and is already converted. Anybody know a way around this besides redrawing the traces in 2D?

BTW, Macka has volunteered to check out the design and probably etch and test it too. The design is on its way Down Under. Thanks Ian!
kilowattski
Use ISOPro. I use it to route boards on a PCB Router but it will also convert a dxf file to gerber. Send me an email and I will hook you up.
Blues
The conversion was pretty straightforward with the SOLPROF command. The Help section of AutoCAD was very helpful.

kWski, thanks...I'll e-mail you if this won't work still.
jacco vermeulen
Just out of curiosity: which AutoCad version did you make it in ?

Autocad is totally 2D, by the way.
It uses a trick to get from 2D to 3D projection, even the AutoCad 2004 that i am using is a 2D program.
To make it truly 3-dimensional Autodesk would have to rewrite it totally, which costs, same story as Windows@.
Blues
AutoCad 2002. It allows for generation of different solids in 3D. You can start with 2D too and rotate or extrude to make irregularly shaped solids. 3D can be viewed with the different isometric views. I find it easier to do it in solid first and then just convert to 2D as the traces as you know are irregularly shaped. Using polylines to create them is a lot more work in my opinion.
metalman
Any news, Blues? (Sorry for the rhyming pun ... I couldn't resist!)
Blues
Metalman,

I held up production of the proto boards for now. My attention is on some pressing family issues. We'll be back on track once I get this behind me in a month or so. While at it I modified the design a bit to accomodate a cap across Z5 on the front end CCS. I'll have to get this bit of mod to the manufacturer once I get back so it'll be included on the prototypes.
metalman
Blues,

Family issues always deserve the highest priority, and I hope all is resolved to good effect in time. In the meantime, our hedonistic pursuit of audio perfection won't suffer any from the wait.

Cheers, Terry
metalman
Blues,

I'm in the process of gathering parts for my upcoming Aleph-X attempt, where I plan on using your baords once they become available. Do your boards include spots for potentiometers / variable resistors for setting the bias and CCS AC current contribution, and if so, what type or geometry of pots have you settled on?

Thanks in advance, Terry
Blues
Terry,

It features trim pot position for adjusting diff pair bias only but not output bias. CCS current gain also. I used the in-line type of trim pot and not the triangular legged one. I'll post the space and trim pot dimensions allowed on the board when I get home.

Thanks,
allan
Blues
Terry,

The space will allow for a 5mm width trim pot with 2.5mm-spaced in-line leads. Depending on how you'll be mounting the PCB...parallel to the heatsink back-plane you'd want the side adjust type: muRata PV36 or 37, Bourns 3296X or the BC CT94X will fit. For perpendicularly mounted PCBs the top adjust type will be more convenient: muRata PV36 or 37, Bourns 3296W or BC CT94W...all are multi-turns and available at Digikey.

On the AlephX as drawn by Grey Rollins R24/26 and V2 will be comprised by just one trim pot on the HRA board (a 500 ohms trimmer set to about 250 ohms before testing-fine tune for about 20mA or more later). So with R11/V1 and R33/V3 with just a trimpot (200k) for each combo.

Allan
metalman
Allan,

Thanks for providing such detailed specifics. I already was eyeing the Bourns 3296 series but had been planning based on Grey's resistor paralleled with pot scenario. Your info has saved me from having to buy the pots twice. Now I just have the big caps, inductors and trafo's left to buy for the power supply, aka the expensive stuff, although I already have the heatsinks. Picked up a boxful of Wakefield 486K's from a surplus/disposal outfit for about 5% of their new cost. Gonna use two sinks per monoblock.

Cheers, Terry
Blues
For the AX guys who have built it and for those who are planning to....

Do you find you have/will have a need for the Common-mode feedback resistors going from each output to the Source of the diff amp (or Drain of diff amp CCS)? I think some people use it to tame DC offset along with the 30 ohms of resistors to ground at each output. NP I think endorsed these but is not included in Grey's circuit. I can't find in the pile of info that is the "AX" thread reasons why it wasn't included.

Please let me know from those who have experienced it and I will try to include them in the HRA boards. Make some noise guys if you need it and if you want it.
uli
Grey´s circuit was in the very first post. Those resistors were
implemented much later.

Uli

:nod: :nod: :nod:
SGregory
Never used anything but the thirty ohm ground resistors. I have no problems with offset.
AR2
What are the chances to have Aleph 1.2 included as well?
Blues
Uli,

It's not showing on the AX wiki page circuit...I thought that's what the final circuit came to.

AR2,

Sorry, not a chance. If you're after 4A, +/-60V of the A1.2 you can up the A2 bias and rails for similar power specs.

Allan
macka2
I hope to post some details of my diy HR pcbs here soon

Ian
GRollins
I appear to have missed this thread.
Yes, to the extent that I have power to grant permission on such things, you can X the Aleph if you can work it out on the board, but as always, Nelson is the final arbiter on such matters.
The resistors from the outputs to the input differential are useful. I suggest setting the board up to allow their use. The worst thing that can happen is that people don't put the resistors in. I have only (so far) ever posted one version of the Aleph-X. As uli noted, the resistors were suggested by Ian MacMillan later in the thread. I endorse the idea. It seems that Ian did manage to deduce what Nelson was doing in the production XA amps. Someone buy him a beer.
I'll try to keep an eye on this thread now that I know it's here, but make no promises. I'm in the midst of doing taxes, ongoing problems with my car after the kid hit me last fall, fine-tuning the line stage I'm doing for someone, planting veggies for my wife, etc. etc. etc. In other words, my usual complaint that I'm way overcommited on time. You guys have heard me gripe about this enough times, just ignore me. I'll try to drop in when I can.
If you get desperate for a guinea pig for the boards, I have most of the stuff on hand. The problem (what, you're surprised?) will be getting enough time to assemble the things and test them. Yes, I've got a moderate assemblage of test gear--no AP, sorry--it's time to play with my toys that I lack.

Grey
Blues
Thanks Grey! For your offer too. I don't have time to organize the pro boards right now not until the "smoke" clears at my end. Most probably end of April...not a promise though. Meanwhile, Ian's (Macka) guns are blazing away.

allan
macka
Here's the green etch of the HR1 pcbs.

macka
macka
This is the other size

macka
macka
This was a kitchen table effort.

The layout was reproduced in BW onto A3 film using a large format copier.

All tracks were then ink filled by hand. It took a while.

macka.:cool:
Blues
Ian,

That's is cool and nice! Although you seem to have run out of board space on the long edges...or is it just my eyes? That proves again the kitchen table's versatility...:) Ian, I salute your efforts and patience.

Allan
macka
The board was obnly just big enough, I thought I had more space.

Ah, well not bad for a first effort.

Ian
Blues
No Ian, that's really baaad...wickedly sick!....if you know what I mean. Filling-in every trace must have been the greatest effort in the project. I have found how to fill-it up with cross-hatch after converting the drawing to 2D in AutoCAD so if you need another run I'll send you a printout.

BTW your board does not include the traces and positions for the R's from output to S of diff pair for the Aleph X config as Grey described in his post above.

allan
macka2
Yeah,

I did it while watching season 1 of Tv series 24 Hours on DVD. I don't know how I did it b/n agent Bower and the bad guys.

Okay Allan,

If you could sent the filled layout for the HR2 pcb it would save the eyes....LOL.

cheers

Ian
Blues
I'll let you know when I send it out in the mail. Have fun!
Blues
Ian,

It's going out in the mail today...same address, right?

My printer's not that fine though so shave off some if you think it's going to short out.

Allan
jacco vermeulen
Are Macka's proto's the same 12 1/8 " size as planned in the beginning of this thread.
The boards on those pics look huge !
macka
Same address Allan,

I have not split the two halves but the length is about right.
If you were planning a dual mono A30 you could have both sides on one pcb I imagine.

Ian
Blues
Jacco,

The boards are mirror image and as Ian said not yet split. I did mirror images for those building A3/30/5 who would want it in one chassis (dual mono). The pro boards will be V-scored.

Ian,
Did you keep it 3" x 12 1/8" as designed? It does look huge in the picture. We might be looking at a mirage of the Great Outback:)

allan
macka2
The pcb is a direct take on the layout.

The image is distorted (2nd harmonic only..LOL) by the camera angle.

Ian;)
jacco vermeulen
You have to be carefull, those Aussies have no self-control.:clown:
Mind you, i love the size of these boards !
I am about to receive a bunch of 16" heatsinks from Walter, so you are welcome to stretch as long as you stay below 15" , Ian Mackaroo.

Now its time for macka3 !
macka
I only have one size in my vocabulary

LARGE

macka

:bigeyes:
TubeAdept
@mcka ,@blues

I have read this thread and I see you have a problem with Routing your board's - I can help you if you want

I have a full version of PADS 5.1 and Protel DXF 2004 - profesional PCB Software ( and knowldge for PCB routing ) you can contact me and I can do it this whithout any problem :)
Blues
tubeadept,

The design is actually ready for production. A production house already has it in their file (although un-updated) waiting for my go-ahead. I just had to delay it to sort out family business first. Macka had volunteered to etch it manually and give it a try. Hoping this gets off the ground (or dragstrip:) soon. Thank you for the offer.
Blues
quote:
Originally posted by AR2
What are the chances to have Aleph 1.2 included as well?


AR2,

I just took a harder look at the design. It looks like adding just two vias will help it morph into an Aleph 1.2!! Twelve pairs of output devices or more if you can cram it on your super large heatsinks. As you might have guessed, you'll need two sets of the boards for one channel of A1.2.

Ian,

Looking forward to your new A30.

Allan
Blues
I am currently posted in Dallas with my job. I hear I'll be moving on to San Diego in the next few weeks where I'll remain for an extended period. Once I'm settled, I'll definitely finalize order for the boards. I hope some of you are still excited with these boards...it's taking me forever! Just like you I hate it.

Summary: Aleph 1.2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 30, 60 and X configs.
kilowattski
I am sure once they are done they will be dynamite. A good thing is well worth waiting for.
AR2
quote:
Originally posted by Blues



AR2,

I just took a harder look at the design. It looks like adding just two vias will help it morph into an Aleph 1.2!! Twelve pairs of output devices or more if you can cram it on your super large heatsinks. As you might have guessed, you'll need two sets of the boards for one channel of A1.2.

Ian,

Looking forward to your new A30.

Allan

Thank you!


:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:
:) :) :)
Blues
When this will finally be available and you chaps in Europe would like to try it...it will be through one person who can consolidate all Euro orders and send payments in $.

Paging Herr Vermeulen....?!
jacco vermeulen
Are you calling me, Master ?
Blues
I'm not entitled to the M title...that's for shall we say SMEs. But somebody in Europe as contact person to uncomplicate things would be nice. A big favor actually. Make shipping cheaper and easier. Less things to think about for me at least:) Lazy icon, Busy icon, Scratching butt icon, etc.
jacco vermeulen
quote:
Originally posted by Blues
I am currently posted in Dallas with my job. I hear I'll be moving on to San Diego in the next few weeks where I'll remain for an extended period.

Thats what i admire about US people, whenever needed you guys relocate over a distance what for most here is incomprehensable.


Allan,

i was referring to you rubbing your vase, not your shoe !:clown:

Of course i am glad to contribute.

Mr Pass just recently posted how important the layout of a pcb is.
The Aleph's and Zen's are just about the best to construct for a diy amplifier builder with a good board, relatively easy and even affordable when it comes to active parts.
Go figure, i used to buy $15 Lateral Mosfets for my early stuff, i just aquired a number of IRFP rails for $1.50 per device overhere.

With the consent and approval of the Number 1 Bon Vivant honorary member himself, and Mr Rollins, of the pcb's and the layout, people should grab the ocassion to get their hands on
universal Aleph boards.
So, if can help to make the pcb's available for Euro's to see the light, with pleasure.

(btw, i weigh 220lbs, started Aikido lessons before Steven Seagall had a ponytail, worked a couple of years at the entertainment doors of Sin City to pay for my education at PolyTech. :clown:
I have an SME arm, but it only makes music.)
Blues
Thanks JV. I owe you a set of boards:) Sin City as in Las Vegas...I didn't think Europeans can last in desert temp unless of course dressed as tourists.

"Thats what i admire about US people, whenever needed you guys relocate over a distance what for most here is incomprehensable. "

I miss my family the most...
:bawling:
jacco vermeulen
Allan,

it is very nice that i can buy a couple of sets of these boards from you, and donate to diyaudio.

Not Vegas, Amsterdam is called Sin City too for a number of years.
Some of the stuff there would frighten even Las Vegas veterans, or Frisco types.
A great many "remarkable" persons originating from the FSU and the former Yugoslavia with "remarkable sums of money" made their way to Cheese city.
And too many pills and powders nowadays, not funny anymore.
I've lived in Seattle, been to Texas, never seen Vegas, nor feel the need.
I was stationed in the Carribean dressed as a marine, been to Surinam when Holland still had special forces there, Brasil, drove the PanAmerican highway with a gun in the glove compartment, Texas was worse.
I have Afro-American friends in Texas, the Texas South Coast humidity even drives them bonkers.
Survive Texas, you'll survive Vegas, my guess.
Blues
Jacco,

I visited Amsterdam when I was 10 and 12 y/o. Beautiful place and countryside. You're right...I remember walking around town at night with my parents and the view needed some parental guidance. We stayed at Sonesta? Hotel and Ibis near Schipol. One big sign reads "What's on a Man's Mind" with Freud's caricature and a naked woman superimposed. I enjoyed the sight of windmills, tulips and cows more:)

Texas grows on you. I like it here when I worked from 2 years before. It's very multi-cultural and not as some Americans potray it or even think about it. The Gulf coast is very humid and hot so with San Antonio. Dallas is hot and dry.
Blues
I'm thinking burnt orange for soldermask and dark yellow or blue for silkcreen. Maybe blue is a better contrast with orange.
macka2
I'll post more pictures tomorrow of the stufing progress.

I am so used the the Mark Finnis boards these are a new learning curve.

Last night just for a lark I doubled the bias of the quassi Aleph 60 running 30vdc rails.

The most noticable effect was the hotter heatsinks and louder hum from the woofers...just a straight smoothed PS at the moment.

I have to say its sounds a sweet as honey though.

This is going to be fun..maybe we can convince Nelson to relaunch the Aleph as the Grand Daddy of Aleph with big juicy meters on the front for those freaks with low impedance loads.

Ian
Nelson Pass
quote:
Originally posted by macka2
This is going to be fun..maybe we can convince Nelson to relaunch the Aleph as the Grand Daddy of Aleph with big juicy meters on the front for those freaks with low impedance loads.

Poor babies...

The next Aleph design will come out of First Watt in about a
month. It is smaller, and has no meters.

:cool:
Blues
Ian,

Just line up all the components and solder...:) I'm more excited than you with your project. Please double time:) Take it easy and be safe.
kilowattski
I am excited about your boards also, I can hardly wait until they are available. Blue and yellow have a nice contrast.:D
Blues
I like that combo too kWski. Yellow flames would be nice...
Blues
A note for future AX builders...these boards were not designed with X in mind and is not as symmetrical in copper trace design as some out there designed as X from the start. Although there are ways to balance it with the trim pot positions provided on the boards. Plus rest easy because a copper trace's resistance is much much less compared to the series resistor value in the circuit (Cu trace R<<<1% of resistor value).
jacco vermeulen
quote:
Originally posted by Nelson Pass
The next Aleph design will come out of First Watt in about a
month. It is smaller, and has no meters.

Speaking about Lazy Eyes ! :mafioso:
jacco vermeulen
quote:
Originally posted by Blues
I'm thinking burnt orange for soldermask and dark yellow or blue for silkcreen. Maybe blue is a better contrast with orange.

Orange, well.......is that like Phoenix Orange?

Cant i have a couple with pictures on them of Ian's lady friends ?
Blues
JV, would you like it UT Longhorns orange, Phoenix Suns orange or just being Nationalistic orange?;)

I think Ian's home-made boards come with it.
kilowattski
Blues,

Are you planning the spacing for inputs or outputs from the board for terminal blocks? It sure would save alot of lifted traces when experimenting with or repairing boards. A couple of solders and unsolders and the traces start lifting, even on well made boards with good soldering and desoldering equipment. Those who choose not to use terminal blocks, they can just solder right to the board if they wish. For thoose of us that would like to use them the spacing is right. I recommend 0.295 spacing.
Blues
Guy,

Due to space limitation I opted for 3.5mm spacing for terminal blocks. You would need a really new, pointed soldering iron tip. All external connections will accomodate a terminal block.

Thanks,
Allan
kilowattski
Works for me......Yes!!!!!!!
jacco vermeulen
Works for me too.
peeling traces are not my kind of thing.

btw: i've been using wbt crimp sleeves on terminal blocks for nearly as long as they are produced, wbt started in 85.
wbt produces gold or silver plated crimp sleeves.
the regular set is with crimp sleeve pliers, also gold plated.
The pliers press the crimp sleeves unlike regular pliers, but the set is kind of pricy.
However, a box of those crimp sleeves costs a fraction of the entire set, and can be bought in the required size.
Maybe you know of other manufacturers who produce corrosion resistant crimp sleeves ?

(i visited wbt in Essen, only a 2 hour drive from where i live, awesome factory)

We just had Queen Mom's day a week ago, no nationalistic Orange please, i've been buying packed juice for the last couple of days. :xeye:
BowTie colors maybe, with the yellow flames ?
kilowattski
Jacco,

Not sure what you mean, but it sounds like it would like to try it. Do you have a picture of the part?
jacco vermeulen
http://www.wbtusa.com/crimpinstructions.html

I suggested this because you are going to Germany Guy, wbt stuff is way cheaper there.
The regular wbt crimp sleeves are solid copper, and a lot cheaper.
kilowattski
Oh....Guy likes it! Seriously though, that is a great idea. I didn't know they existed. I can see multiple uses for them.
Clarkcr
How is this for an A1.2 chassis?

Am I a good candidate? In case you are wondering....the chassis is 29 inches long by 10 high and 11 deep. I was originally going to put this together to be a straight A1.2, but now I don't know.

C
Clarkcr
It has so far a 1.5KVA tranni and 6 72,000 uF caps. I have matched fets all ready to go.

Blues, if you are still in Dallas let me know, I buzz over and take you to lunch.

C
Coulomb
quote:
Originally posted by Clarkcr
It has so far a 1.5KVA tranni and 6 72,000 uF caps. I have matched fets all ready to go.

Blues, if you are still in Dallas let me know, I buzz over and take you to lunch.

C

Hey Clark, what secondaries does the 1.5KVA have? This is a Mono Block, Correct?

Where is it's mate?

Anthony
Blues
Hey Clark, I'm still in the Richardson/Plano area. Tomorrow I'm in training at Ericsson and might be done early. Free this weekend too if you want to meet up and I'll show you the design on paper. The softcopy though is back in WA on my desktop.

Massive and looks very very capable to support an A1.2!!
Clarkcr
50 volt secondaries. It's brother is on the floor behind me. I'm rounding out of the fabrication stage for these. All I have left is the faceplate, top plate, and bottom plate. All quite underated.

My next step is to start fitting pieces and aim for 60v +- on the rails. I will need to calibrate a resistor bank that will hang off the back panel behind an old car amp heatsink that will fit perfectly back there.

C
Clarkcr
Unfortunately I have already drilled and tapped the fet locations...would be a shame to redrill and tap for your new board. I might also end up having a fet too close to the seam between extrusions. I'm already a little close to the edge on 2.

Here is another picture. This is actually the first one's brother before I drilled for the fets. Damn my elbow is tired!!! My wife just loves how it compliments the colors and appointments in our living room.

C

Blues, I'll see what I have on my plate tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it's a go. Give me a ring.

214 789-9050
jacco vermeulen
quote:
Originally posted by Clarkcr
How is this for an A1.2 chassis?

Looks to me like the best Aleph candidates reside in Texas, no big surprise.

You're placing the boards in the bottom section, Mr. C.C. ?
Clarkcr
I think I'm going to put the board up high as close to the rear of the chassis as I can. This will be spacially the farthest point from that toroid. I'm thinking of building a can around the toroid and filling it with lead buckshot (we can buy this at any corner store here in Texas). I am thinking this would go a long way to deaden any interference from the field of the toroid. Any suggestions in packing the toroid can with something that weighs a little less?

I may also mount the board vertically and parralell with the rear faceplate. I can't remember off had how the board is laid out, but this may allow my leads to and from the board to be as short as possible.

Thanks for the input. I am but a flea in the DIY jar of audio vasalene.
pinkmouse
quote:
Originally posted by Clarkcr
I I'm thinking of building a can around the toroid and filling it with lead buckshot (we can buy this at any corner store here in Texas).

That is likely to create a shorted turn, and you will end up with a pool of molten lead on the floor...
jacco vermeulen
A-number-1-Clark,

i always liked those big metal pans around toroids in Threshold amplifiers.
(and Mark Levinson's, sorry Boss).

Getting my hands on the pans( and the Holden&Fisher's ) Mr Pass used in his amplifiers was impossible overhere. Believe me, i tried.
I put toroids in cheap alloy outdoor cooking pots, filled with thermal epoxy resin.

Some time ago someone on a dutch audio forum gave me the tip to do this twice, a second alloy pan over the first, and fill the gap between them with epoxy resin too to isolate one from the other.
If only the outer makes contact with the chassis humming days should be over.
Sounded logical to me, so i am going to try that on the Aleph's.
quote:
I'm thinking of building a can around the toroid and filling it with lead buckshot (we can buy this at any corner store here in Texas).


Next to the cereal, right?
Yep, buckshot usually deadens any interference !
Personally i see myself as a turd in Nelson Pass's A....
Clarkcr
Hey that's a cool idea!! Thanks. I'll use two bowls, the first filled with epoxy, and the second with buckshot. Nice and heavy. Although, I am thinking buckshot is slight overkill.

Anybody know where to find those aluminum cans in this country?

C
jacco vermeulen
Overhere they are sold practically everywhere, 3 pans of different sizes with a twist lid on top, can be found for $5 the set:
- diy stores
- warehouses
- outdoor and sport shops
- even seen them on open air markets and gas stations.
Not sure about Texas, my Texas friends find a lot of the stuff we do here peculiar. :xeye:
Coulomb
quote:
Originally posted by Clarkcr
Hey that's a cool idea!! Thanks. I'll use two bowls, the first filled with epoxy, and the second with buckshot. Nice and heavy. Although, I am thinking buckshot is slight overkill.

Anybody know where to find those aluminum cans in this country?

C

quote:
Originally posted by jacco vermeulen
Overhere they are sold practically everywhere, 3 pans of different sizes with a twist lid on top, can be found for $5 the set:
- diy stores
- warehouses
- outdoor and sport shops
- even seen them on open air markets and gas stations.
Not sure about Texas, my Texas friends find a lot of the stuff we do here peculiar. :xeye:

Cake tins, try a baking goods store.

Anthony
macka2
Hello all,

This is taking a lot longer than I thought...the new layout is a whole new learning curve but its starting to come along.

I should start on the other board later this week.

Ian
Clarkcr
I was actually referring to the nice heavy variety that the Krells and Mark Levinson's of the world use. I have a camping set that is made of stainless that could be polished to look like chrome.....that might be cool.

C
Blues
quote:
Originally posted by macka2
Hello all,

This is taking a lot longer than I thought...the new layout is a whole new learning curve but its starting to come along.

I should start on the other board later this week.

Ian


Ian, you're getting there my friend.

For the bigger is better crowd...0.5W resistors can fit on all 0.25W R positions.
jacco vermeulen
Cant wait for the outcome, Macka.
Now show us some nice ladies again, mate.

Now there is a thought, maybe i could search for the right diameter, and make polished stainless steel toroid pots myself.
I have 4" stainless steel piping in my garage, and bought a secondhand pro polishing device, to make SS sidebars for my Chevy, the SS welding i do myself.

Been using 0.6 watts for years, friend.
Blues
Jacco, will the SS badge come with a SS engine?:)
macka2
quote:
Originally posted by jacco vermeulen
Cant wait for the outcome, Macka.
Now show us some nice ladies again, mate.

Now there is a thought, maybe i could search for the right diameter, and make polished stainless steel toroid pots myself.
I have 4" stainless steel piping in my garage, and bought a secondhand pro polishing device, to make SS sidebars for my Chevy, the SS welding i do myself.

Been using 0.6 watts for years, friend.

All work and no play makes a dull boy.

That said there are'nt to many woman on this forum!

Ian
Blues
Mirror images of Board I showing component lay-out...

Been in contact with boardhouse and they're getting ready for the prototype run.
Blues
Mirror images of Board II...
kilowattski
Blues,

Absolute beauty! I hope you are going a group buy. I have some heatsinks and they are screaming Aleph 2 to me. Loud little suckers those hunks of aluminum.;) :D
Clarkcr
did anyone actually post a schematic for the hotrod Aleph?

C

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