| neptunekiev |
| I like listening to dance music and want a sub for this purpose. I want the sound like that in a club, such as seen in a recent post. If the PA speaker in a small box is a good choice, please tell me the best cabinent design that is small and efficent. I am willing to sacrafice on size and efficience some, but it cant be huge. Thanks |
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| cjd |
What do you consider small, and what do you consider efficient? The two are almost completely opposite possibilities with respect to subs.
Also, how low does it need to go?
I am building a "small" sub for my dad at the moment - an Adire Tumult in a 90L box. But it should be pretty much flat to 15Hz in-room when it's done. And it should be capable of near 120dB output levels without exceeding excursion limits.
C |
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| dangus |
Which club? The neighbourhood disco, M.o.S., or Dillinja's Valve Soundsystem?
If you use a pro woofer, you'll have to put it in a pro sized cabinet for it to work correctly. 7 to 9 cubic feet for a typical 18" in a ported cabinet with an F3 someplace below 40 Hz, around 97 dB efficient. A pair of these are adequate for home use, although my next door neighbour had a different opinion.
How about an Adire Tempest 15" using the horn plans at Adire's website? That's efficient, not too large, and goes quite low. And if you don't like it, that driver will work well in various sizes of ported and sealed boxes.
You'll also need a decent amp, around 200 to 500 watts per sub. Used amps will be the best value. |
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| neptunekiev |
| thanks for all of the info, i like the adire idea, ya ime not too worried about sound as long as its not gigantic, i was just looking for the punchy bass that you find in a all night dance club or rave, it is really quite opposite of what most hifi audiophiles are looking for, but the music i listen to is tailored to the club systems. |
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| RHosch |
| For the best compromise, I'd probably look at a modern long-throw 15" driver in a smallish box with Qtc between 1.0 and 1.5, with adequate amplifier power (around 500W is a good starting point, and you may need more or less depending on the final driver and box design chosen). |
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| mike.e |
RHosch : That is probably the simplest,and most intuitive option.
You could achieve a similar thing with a boomy ported system,alot of 60hz etc. People are so used to horrible systems,you can assault them with really non hifi sound :dead:
(Some in UKraves dont like the labhorn sound-doesnt give them the bassbin distortion) |
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| richie00boy |
How big is the room and what's your budget? What kind of SPL do you want? What are your main speakers?
The others seem to be on the right track to achieving what you want, but it's a fairly pricey route. IMO a PA woofer in a small box is not what you want as it will not go deep enough. |
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| MPM |
Have you considered some of these designs by
www.billfitzmaurice.com
Read some of the reviews and check out the forum. I just bought the Tuba18 plans for my Christmas project. If you decide to try one of the plans make sure you can get the correct driver. |
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| simon5 |
I would use the Tempest Horn design, plenty of output in the 30 Hz - 200 Hz region.
But then, replace the Tempest with a Tumult.
Best dance sub for the money! :D |
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| Hennie |
Those club speakers are often tuned to have a bit of a resonant peak in the sub 100 Hz region. This would normally give slow sounding one note kind of bass. They get around this problem by using a driver with high 3rd order harmonic distortion at the required operating level - this makes it sound faster and punchier. Some car subs with unpublished distortion figures also use this principle to good effect, that's why so many long throw car subs are not suitable for hi-fi. (Excluding the serious stuff like JL Audio)
It may be difficult to emulate the club effect in the home for two reasons:
- If you use a driver designed for home use it may sound too slow if tuned for some peakiness - it's 3rd order disto will be too low compared to second order.
- The peakiness will interact with home acoustics in a different way compared to a club.
I think your best bet will be a lower cost long stroke car sub tuned to produce a slight peak, with some bass traps to keep the acoustics at bay. |
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| neptunekiev |
| I really like the tuba 24 idea with the HL-10, but i wonder how well it would work with the BETA-10 sub and if it would be near as loud. The roomsize i am looking to put it in is 8 X 10 but will be used in live dj applications in rooms of varying ballroom sizes. I am confused about the power ratings. Is this speaker design just so efficient that you can use a sub with only 300 watt RMS? |
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| neptunekiev |
http://editweb.iglou.com/eminence/e...kers/beta10.htm
i was always under the impression that the beta 10 could do 250 watts rms? The specs that i have found on internet sites such as the one i posted, have always said 250 watt rms.
Also, has anybody done anything or experimented with speakers such as the delta 10, gamma 10, or kappa pro ten as a possible alternative to the hl-10a or the beta 10.
Why is the sensetivity so low on the hl-10a when compared with others? |
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| BillFitzmaurice |
The Beta 10 will handle 250 watts but that's only the figure before the voice coil burns up. Beyond 100 to 150 watts maximum in the high acoustic impedance of the Tuba 24 horn power compression sets in and it will distort. The HL10 a will not distort even at full power at 25Hz.
The other mentioned drivers are not well suited to the Tuba 24 for various spec reasons. The Delta and Gamma have too small xmax, the Kappa pro too low a Qts.
The HL10a has lower sensitivity due to it's higher mms, which is necessary to acheive its fs, though it is somewhat offset by the Bl product. |
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