| GG |
| quote: | Originally posted by stelleg151
Granted they only have about 50 hours on them, and they already sound better than they did at first, but I am not optimistic that they will eventually fill the room a lot better.
|
Hi George,
Give it time. I broke the FE127E in for about 100 hours. At that point, the mids and highs were pretty good and have not changed much. However, since then I have been able to drop the crossover point from about 100Hz to 80Hz. These guys need major hours before they fully break in.
Also, since you are monopole, the problem may not be lack of bass, but rather that they are to bright as a result of baffle step.
Give this a read:
http://www.quarter-wave.com/General/BSC_Sizing.pdf
Moving the speakers towards a wall can also help reduce baffle step. |
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| stelleg151 |
Yeah I have been considering putting in a BSC, I think I will try that, although I was hesitant to because the SI was rumored to sound much better without any circuits in between it and the drivers, but perhaps I will tinker.
Thanks dave,
George |
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| rabbitz |
I found BSC was a must with a monopole FE127E and the amount required varied from room to room even though they were similar amounts from the back wall.
On this FE127E there is a BSC table which only applies for the 200mm wide baffle. There's a great BSC spreadsheet to calculate these components on the quarter-wave site mentioned in GG's post. |
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| preiter |
| I had to add BSC to my FE127 monopole as well. You can avoid it by building a bipole, the the BSC circuit is a lot cheaper than two more drivers. |
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| stelleg151 |
| quote: | Originally posted by preiter
I had to add BSC to my FE127 monopole as well. You can avoid it by building a bipole, the the BSC circuit is a lot cheaper than two more drivers. |
Most definately.
Also, I dont have the drivers flush with the face of the box, does that matter at all? |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by stelleg151
Also, I dont have the drivers flush with the face of the box, does that matter at all? |
Everything matters, but the 126 & 127 are most often just mounted. The shallowness of the bezel & its shape tend to minimize any issues. If you are worried, just build up the baffle with some felt.
dave |
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| gychang |
| quote: | Originally posted by bootzilla
Hey guys,
Wow, long thread! - After learning about and deciding to buy myself a T-amp to play with and mod (I'm a little late to the party - this is all new to me), I wanted to build myself a decent pair of simple, full range speakers to be able to enjoy music with.
After deciding to use either a Fostex FE207 or FE127, I stumbled across this thread....
Well, 69 pages later - I have ordered a pair of 127's, my T-amp, and some assorted caps - and I am juiced to get started building a pair of the folded monopole design!
Thanks to you guys for starting the thread and developing the designs - I likely wouldn't even be giving this a try if it wasn't for all of your work!
Now I just want the stuff to get here, so I can get started!! |
I am a owner of a unmodified sonic T-amp, let me know how things turn out...
gychang |
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| stelleg151 |
| quote: | Originally posted by gychang
I am a owner of a unmodified sonic T-amp, let me know how things turn out...
gychang |
I have that setup and I love it. Been using electronic BSC, and they work great. |
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| Ray Collins |
I need a pair of bookshelf speakers to actually use on the bookshelves in my kitchen. Would the Fonken, miniOnken or rabbitz's monopole work?
Thanks,
Ray |
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| planet10 |
Sure... the miniOnken with the FR125 would definitly need damped ports to not be way bass heavy.
dave |
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| GM |
Greets!
More than likely, open back will be sufficient with the FR125S since you'll get strong cavity resonances.
GM |
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| Ray Collins |
GM,
If your input was for me I missed the point; please explain.
Ray |
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| GM |
Greets!
Make a box with no back, IOW a dipole, and if there's too much mids/HF reflections either place a decorative potholder behind it or lightly stuff the rear of the box.
GM |
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| Ray Collins |
GM,
Uhhhh.....still new to much of this....but.....did my leg just come off in your hand?!
Ray |
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| Ray Collins |
| Were you pulling my leg (kidding me) about no back and the pot holder? |
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| planet10 |
I wouldn't use a pot holder, but i don't think he was kidding :)
dave |
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| Ray Collins |
| Appears that the Yolk is on me.....too much thinking Inside the Box?!:o |
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| GM |
| quote: | Originally posted by Ray Collins
Were you pulling my leg (kidding me) about no back and the pot holder? |
Greets!
Nope, I never 'kid' about speaker design advice unless we're all just being 'silly' for whatever reason. This doesn't mean to imply that it's always good advice though, all knowing I'm not, I just come up with the best I can at that moment.
GM |
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| GM |
| quote: | Originally posted by planet10
I wouldn't use a pot holder, but i don't think he was kidding :)
dave |
Greets!
Nope, but to clarify, I didn't mean use potholders to stuff the rear of the cabs, they're much too dense, just to line the back/corners of the shelves to damp cavity resonances and unwanted mids/HF reflections somewhat.
GM |
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| Godzilla |
http://www.zillaspeak.com/fostex127eSSB.asp
I am nearly done with these 127e based speakers. Should be firing them up this weekend with my Cary tube amp... wonder how they will compare to the 168S system they are replacing.
Godzilla |
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| loninappleton |
Looks like it's close to the dims of my GM spec'ed
mltl for FE127e
I'll be curious to hear what you think of them,
esp w/yer Sonic Impact t amp.
I've never used a sub but BassLite(tm) has always
been my preference. ;-) |
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| Godzilla |
I am very pleased with the Fostex 127e! I just spent about two hours comparing this driver to the older style Fostex 168s and the Radio Shack 1197. I will post pictures soon of all three speakers standing together so you can see exactly what I compared.
Lets just say the 1197s are not in the same category. Mostly because of the small aperiodic box they are in. They sounded small, congested and boxy. I know they can sound much better and will put them in better cabinets in the future.
But the 127e and 168s are certainly comparable. My first comparison was without a subwoofer. To make a long story short, I’d pick the 168s without a sub because its warmer and fuller sound was a pleasure to listen to.
But the 127e was great too. Everything was clean. Bass was deeper than I expected but the 168s (in its larger box) was fuller and bouncier.
Then I connected the subwoofer. Overall, the efficiency of both these drivers is about the same. I didn’t need to change the sub at all and the comparison was a bit different when neither full range driver needed to produce the deepest bass. It’s a toss up between these two drivers when using a sub. Here are my subjective comments:
127e – Clear as a bell. Slightly forward. Clean.
168s – Slightly shouty, not as ‘flat’ sounding as 127e. Slightly boxy sound in the mid bass (probably my ported box - these drivers are going into a BIB soon).
Overall, the imaging was better with the 127e. Vocals were rock solid floating in space. But it was very close and this was only when using the subwoofer. The two drivers did sound different and I was always able to tell which was playing.
Pink Floyd sounded better on the 168s.
Eric Clapton sounded better on the 127e.
Squeeze – tie.
Norah Jones – tie.
Melissa Ethridge – better on the 127e.
Red Hot Chili Peppers – horrible on both – I had to turn it off.
Sometimes the 168s sounded a bit larger, sometimes smaller. I think the 168s was less consistent overall, sounding amazing or just ok. Sometimes it sounded thin.
This thread on the 127e reference project (thank you all!) was a great help and my design is basically a slightly smaller and compromised version of it and GM’s MLTL… I will post the design but feel it’s probably a compromise in overall performance to the larger reference project and GM’s probably smoother since it’s an MLTL and mine’s not. My design was made to fit next to the fireplace and near a chair. It’s a high WAF design specifically built for my living room. But I would imagine they are similar enough in sound. If the other two are any better, they are indeed excellent speakers!
BTW, I used my Cary tube amp and the Sonic Impact amp for comparison and they both sounded good but when I first switched from the Cary to the SI I thought the SI sounded bad (flat, grainy, smaller sounding)… then things settled in and I was happy with the SI overall. The Cary is certainly better. But I was curious how $30 sounded to $1000.
Peace,
Godzilla |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Godzilla
127e – Clear as a bell. Slightly forward. Clean. |
Are you going to modify them? They get clearer, flatter, and less colored than stock (my opinion of course)
dave |
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| GG |
Looks good. Are those standard lumber dimensions? If so, that will make for an easy build.
Do you have a BSC or is it close enough to the wall? |
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| Godzilla |
| The 127e has a slight ‘hysteria’ or excitability that I wonder if the modification cures? Yes, the lumber is standard sizes… 1x4 and 1x10… I will measure and post dims tomorrow. They were so easy to build - like putting together an easy wooden puzzle. Hardest part is cutting out the holes (used a hole saw drill bit that took forever to ‘score’ its way thru the pine… but the hole came out perfectly). No circuit but these are very close to the wall… about an inch or two and the bass is nice and clean. Just a small amount of stuffing behind the driver in the top third of the cab is all it took. Simple and clean project. |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Godzilla
The 127e has a slight ‘hysteria’ or excitability that I wonder if the modification cures? |
Mark MacKenzie noted 2 or 3 resonances to tame and talked about high levels of cone talk. When we were developing the Fonkens, there was always something in the background that the FE127 putting a rough edge on everything.
Cone talk is something i've been dealing with for 25 years with puzzlecoat so that part was easy. Mark MacKenzie left a couple clues as to how to cure the resonances. I took what i'd seen in his other driver mods, my experience and the tools at hand, to try out a scheme on the 127.
We were gobsmacked.
There is more on the mod on my Fostex driver page with a link to the FR Forum thread where i outlined the procedure i used. I've refined that a bit since then and will be getting a page up with a more detailed & up-to-date how to.
I have no idea whether i've reached the the best attainable, but they do sound better. And they are prettier (certainly more interesting). The 1st ones are in the field now, so hopefully we'll have some feedback soon.
The cone mods require damar, puzzlecoat, applicators, and (optional) colourant if you want to change the color. Best if used with the felt & the ductseal tweaks.
dave |
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| loninappleton |
I'll be looking forward to seeing the by-the-numbers
how-to on the FE127e's.
But why do I think that doing mods is the thing you
do before you throw the speaks out? It's so easy
to make an irreversible error.
I've seen Tangbands with little dents tapped in them,
lacquered up Radio Shacks and and now Fostex and
also the felt ring thingie from (Morey James, I think).
I actually tried the felt ring made (since it was completely
reversible) but I ditched it as not a good improvement. |
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| preiter |
I did the mods (damar and puzzlecoat) and was fairly impressed. Bass improved to the point where I moved the speakers about 6" further from the wall (I did add spikes to the speaker at the same time as I did the speaker mods, that may account for some of the extra bass).
Treble improved enough that I forgot about adding a helper tweeter.
And before the mods, the speakers were a bit edgy. The mods smoothed that out considerably. |
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| Scottmoose |
| I can vouch for the mods too. I've heard the stock FE126E (nice driver), but my pair are the blue ones on Dave's site, with all the mods, and it's a dramatic improvement in every respect. Well worth doing. If you're worried about wrecking the drivers, you can always buy a modified pair from Dave, which are also pair-matched into the bargin. |
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| SCD |
I have modified a few drivers so having a go at the 127e was not a scarry thing for me. Her is a photo of one of mine. I used an artist brush to get a thin line of damar. I made a guide to ensure I was in the region that Mark Mc recommended. After the damar dried I applied a thin coat of moodge poodge (a puzzle coat variant). I have not heard them yet but i have heard a set that Dave had worked on, and I was impressed with the out come. Once I get the final finish on my bipole fonkens I will have another set in the fostex fleet to listen to. Hmmmmm..... That makes seven sets of speakers in the living rooom! I will have to get rid of some of the furniture!!
Anyone need a couch, all I need is one commfie chair. |
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| jleaman |
| quote: | Originally posted by SCD
I have modified a few drivers so having a go at the 127e was not a scarry thing for me. Her is a photo of one of mine. I used an artist brush to get a thin line of damar. I made a guide to ensure I was in the region that Mark Mc recommended. After the damar dried I applied a thin coat of moodge poodge (a puzzle coat variant). I have not heard them yet but i have heard a set that Dave had worked on, and I was impressed with the out come. Once I get the final finish on my bipole fonkens I will have another set in the fostex fleet to listen to. Hmmmmm..... That makes seven sets of speakers in the living rooom! I will have to get rid of some of the furniture!!
Anyone need a couch, all I need is one commfie chair. |
AND a beer and some one to join you to listen to them with. :D |
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| SCD |
Good point Jason that makes two chairs. Yes I can still get rid of the rest of the furniture and have enough room.
Here is a shot of the bi-fonken from last week. Things have changed a bit. The stand legs have been painted black and the first coats of the final finish has gone on the cabinets.
Listening session sometime in November? |
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| jleaman |
| quote: | Originally posted by SCD
Good point Jason that makes two chairs. Yes I can still get rid of the rest of the furniture and have enough room.
Here is a shot of the bi-fonken from last week. Things have changed a bit. The stand legs have been painted black and the first coats of the final finish has gone on the cabinets.
Listening session sometime in November? |
maybe you can make a deal with the wife ill come up again and visit and we can do dinner and relax ?
Bring the gf and we can hang out ? Before the weather gets bad ? |
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| Cal Weldon |
| quote: | Originally posted by SCD
Anyone need a couch |
Are you trying to give away my bed there Mr. D? |
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| chrisb |
| quote: | Originally posted by Cal Weldon
Are you trying to give away my bed there Mr. D? |
lonely audiophiles in your area looking to hook-up ?
that's Lavalife- Audio , dial 1800-AUD-FILE :D |
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| metalman |
| We're an "AUD" bunch, that's for sure!:clown: |
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| Ray Collins |
Dave, Chris,...
I have lined the inside of the Fonkens with Poly but don't know if I need to cover the brace and the back of the baffle. ?? If the brace needs to be covered would I do both sides? It is probably a pedantic attention to details but my learning curve is still steep.
Thanks,
Ray |
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| planet10 |
Yes, i'd put a thin layer on both sides of the brace, but it is not critical.
dave |
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| Ray Collins |
| ...and the back of the baffle? |
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| planet10 |
Not really a lot of baffle to put anything on, but yes. All surfaces want a thin layer of something -- we use ~10mm thick cotton felt -- to reduce high frequency reflections back thru the cone.
dave |
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| Ray Collins |
Ok....one more and I will leave you alone:
By all surfaces do you include the port cavity area, i.e., outer cabinet wall and inner wall that forms the port canal on each side? As you know this is a narrow cavity.
Glad to hear cotton felt is acceptable; I have been struggeling unsuccessfully to find wool felt. Cotton felt 3/8" or 10mm thick is also known as "bump" in the upholstery business and is plentiful, widely available and cheap.
Thanks again Dave,
Ray |
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| planet10 |
The vent areas need to be clear -- don't get the damping to close to the entrance either (ie the piece(s) that fits on the back panel
dave |
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| Ray Collins |
Thanks Dave
Ray |
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| Ray Collins |
The Fonkens hae been playing away in the golf cart garage since Sunday. They get sweeter every day. |
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| Ray Collins |
They are mules and will be rebuilt for better cosmetics if they continue to improve.
I treated the frames with duct seal and glued a felt puck on the back of the magnets. I found the felt at HD...two 4"x 6 1/2" squares 1/4" thick for about $3.00. This made a dramatic change. I will pick up the damar ( $9.00 for 2 1/4 oz. ?!) this weekend at the art supply shop. The Modge Podge was purchased at Michaels last week so I will finish the mods this weekend.
Ray |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Ray Collins
I will pick up the damar ( $9.00 for 2 1/4 oz. ?!) |
Ouch. That is about 2x what i paid ($9 CAD for 4 oz). You will have enuff to do many, many speakers. (i've done at least 50 speakers & hardly put a dent in my bottle)
dave |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by Ray Collins
They are mules and will be rebuilt for better cosmetics if they continue to improve.
I treated the frames with duct seal and glued a felt puck on the back of the magnets. I found the felt at HD...two 4"x 6 1/2" squares 1/4" thick for about $3.00. This made a dramatic change. I will pick up the damar ( $9.00 for 2 1/4 oz. ?!) this weekend at the art supply shop. The Modge Podge was purchased at Michaels last week so I will finish the mods this weekend.
Ray |
Mules. Good one.
I've been building up a considerable amount of scrap
and want to make a mule of the longer Fonken.
These will prob'ly weigh a ton but the glue up pieces
will be fairly easy to glue and trim.
Where in this long thread are the drawings and measures
for the long Fonken? |
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| vinylkid58 |
| quote: | | They are mules and will be rebuilt for better cosmetics if they continue to improve. |
Oh they will. With the drivers well broken in, I think you'll be in love with these little speakers and will want to make them look pretty.
Jeff |
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| Ray Collins |
loninappleton
I don't remember which post has the plans for the long version but I am sure that Dave could direct you....Dave?
Jeff
You could be right....I looked at a textured finish while at Hobby Lobby earlier today. Also my wife's grandson has already hinted that he likes the Fonkens "as is"....so....
Another comment on the Damar Varnish. I found it at Hobby Lobby under the Grumbacher brand for $4.99 (2 1/2 oz.) and the clerk gave me a coupon for 40% off. It is scarry but it made me identify with me wife's favorite shopping comment...." look how much money I saved". Oh well... I am off to the shop to treat the cones.
Ray |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by loninappleton
Where in this long thread are the drawings and measures
for the long Fonken? |
The BiFonken plans are in the Box Plan Library, and the alternative shaped Fonkens are in a thread on the Full Range Forum... i'll dig them out and post them & then i guess i should get the Fonken parts of this thread split off into their own thread.
dave |
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| Ray Collins |
This is one of the cones after I treated it with Damar and Mod Poge. I used Kiwi black sole and heel dressing to thin the Mod Poge at a ratio of 1 to 1. The color was a very dark grey...almost black...much like a divorce lawyers heart. I applied it with a #5 flat artists brush in a radial pattern. The second coat was thinned with water at about a 1 to 1 ratio which made it flow better for a much smoother finish.
The results were profound. Gone is the harsh edge and shout. It matched the degree of change I experienced with the felt puck and duct seal on the frame treatment. My wife even noticed the changes and remarked how clear they sounded and how much bass they had for such a small speaker.
Thanks Dave....
Ray |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Ray Collins
The results were profound....Thanks Dave....
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:) |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by planet10
The BiFonken plans are in the Box Plan Library, and the alternative shaped Fonkens are in a thread on the Full Range Forum... i'll dig them out and post them & then i guess i should get the Fonken parts of this thread split off into their own thread.
dave |
I'm familiar with the full range driver forum but did
not see or recall plans in the 'gallery' they have.
So anything you can repost would be good. No rush.
I'm trying to complete a BIB to see how that works. |
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| planet10 |
Not a fonken per se... but a floorstander with Fonken-style tuning
dave |
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| planet10 |
| FlatFonken (meant to fit in a tombstone style box. |
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| planet10 |
| and a couple variations on wall fonkens |
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| planet10 |
Keep in mind that the squish & stretch on these last 3 will have unknown affects on the performance.
dave |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by planet10
Keep in mind that the squish & stretch on these last 3 will have unknown affects on the performance.
dave |
post # 734
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...tamp=1158605101
is the one whose measures I can't locate.
But these other designs are pretty spanky as well. |
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| planet10 |
Those are Scott Dunn's (scd) variation on the Bi-Fonken. His latest comment "I got my Bifonkens hooked and playing. They are really nice. The treated drivers make a huge difference."
I've started to call them flat-face Fonkens & will probably draw the variation as they remove the step where you have to run the box thru the table-saw to get the 45 on the front.
In theory, there will be a negative affect on the edge diffraction, but if it is the difference between buidling or not building a Fonken i can live with it.
The only change is to ensure that the ports are adjusted to maintain the same length
dave |
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| SCD |
Did someone ask about my bi-fonkens. I did some modification to Daves drawings to come up with a presentation style I liked more than the sliced edge style.
I kept the critical stuff the same as Davids design but I used a 1 inch round over and adjusted the internal port length to compensate. I essentially doubled the single fonken design. Mine are made from solid fine grained Douglas-fir.
I am not sure if there is a problem with defraction due to the round over edge vs the cut off edge as these are bi-poles. There may be something there that some may get fussy about I just like the look, and they sound good to me.
The stands are custom made from polished granite and aluminium tubing (both fun materials to work with). Stand height is to ensure the drivers are at ~ 36 inches from the floor, cause that is where my ear is when I am sitting on the coach (just before I fall asleep). I have a small commercial sub that I use to augment below 80 cycles. I keep the sub turned dow low so it does not over power things. I am real happy with these and my wife likes the look, so all is good right now.
The only issue I have is that I have too many sets of speakers in the living room and the furniture is getting in the way.
I will take my camera home this weekend and get a few in the living room shots. It looks like a cold rainy weekend here so I will be gooving to some sweet blues this weekend.
Nuff said for now
I hope this helps |
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| loninappleton |
SCD,
I'll look forward to any additional shots esp. showing
the backside and additional details, plus measures. |
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| SCD |
| Okay here is picture in the living room. All dressed up singing gently. I purchased a nice little SE EL84 when I was in China and hooked it up last night. My what a great combination. I have been listening to some vinyl from the old days and really enjoying things a lot. |
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| Cal Weldon |
| Those look fonken excellent. |
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| SCD |
Hello Lonn:
I am not sure what you are needing in the way of measurements. I followed the design from David keeping all the internal measurement constant. I used 3/4 inch material so I had to adjust for that a bit. I used a Radio Shack terminal block. Here is a shot of the internal brace I made from 1/2 inch plywood. If there is something else you need to know ask and I will try and help. |
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| jleaman |
Looking good scott, keeping busy working on wood projects :D
J' |
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| SCD |
| Here is a shot of the glue up. Lots of clamps. Got to move fairly quickly that glue dries fast. I usually wet down the joints first to help slow things down a bit. Things are a little tense from when the lid comes off the glue till when the lid comes off the beer. It is definitly worth though. |
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| asoprs |
Planet10,
I have a question about the mods to the Fe127. I had no trouble finding puzzlecoat ; ductseal is avail online; but I cant find damar varnish.
I did find a varnish made for protecting acrylic paint. It was sold right next to KAMAR aeresol varnish. There are no ingredients listed on the bottle. Is this essentially the same stuff ? Will anything else do ?
BTW, I have had a pair of Fe127s in a BR box for a while , and against a wall they have good bass down to about 50 hz. On a whim I quickly put together some "tombstone" cabs from this thread. wow, detail and clarity are much improved. I can hear details that are just not present in the BR. Bass extension suffers a little, but overall the improvement is profound.
So, now I am excited about modifying the drivers and tuning the cabs. I may have to get a sub, but what a great sounding pair of speakers.
thanks, tom |
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| BSDprophet |
| Found Damar Varnish in Hobby Lobby.:) |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by SCD
Hello Lonn:
I am not sure what you are needing in the way of measurements. I followed the design from David keeping all the internal measurement constant. I used 3/4 inch material so I had to adjust for that a bit. I used a Radio Shack terminal block. Here is a shot of the internal brace I made from 1/2 inch plywood. If there is something else you need to know ask and I will try and help. |
Ok, let me ask it this way then:
Where is the original design from David?
I dropped the ball on this, I wasn't keeping up with the
thread.
Build in progress: One BIB for the 127e to see how it
turns out from materials I've been getting for it over time.
I want to make a sample 'mule' of the Big Boy Fonken
as well.
Thanks for responding. My projects are not weekenders,
they tend to take a long time. I'm intrigued by the
"Metronome" as well. If I had access to what's called
'KerfCore" that would be an ideal project for it.
:-) |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by BSDprophet
Found Damar Varnish in Hobby Lobby.:) |
We have one of those here.
I make take the plunge and put some goo on my
precious FE127e's at some point.
Scott or somebody was going to make a how-to for this
if I recall correctly.
I could't understand the difference between damar
_coating_ and damar 'decorating' the cone surface with
those (((( )))) patterns. |
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| vinylkid58 |
| quote: | | I have a question about the mods to the Fe127. I had no trouble finding puzzlecoat ; ductseal is avail online; but I cant find damar varnish. |
asoprs,
Damar: any art supply store will have this.
Ductseal: available at building supply stores (Home Depot etc.).
| quote: | | I want to make a sample 'mule' of the Big Boy Fonken |
loninappleton,
Is that the bipole version or something else?
Jeff |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by vinylkid58
asoprs,
Damar: any art supply store will have this.
Ductseal: available at building supply stores
(Home Depot etc.).
loninappleton,
Is that the bipole version or something else?
Jeff |
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| asoprs |
vinylkid58,
Unfortunately my home depot and local hardware store didnt have ductseal. The art supply place had a varnish for paintings, it just wasnt damar (brand?). I think its prob. the same stuff, just wondered if anyone knew before I actually put it on the drivers.
tom |
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| loninappleton |
| quote: | Originally posted by loninappleton
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Question was: is that the Bi fonken?
I hope not. Only going to use one driver facing front to
make the sample mule.
Sorry about the post duplicates.
I've been trying to get the measures for this with
some drawings. |
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| Ray Collins |
The art supply place had a varnish for paintings, it just wasnt damar (brand?). I think its prob. the same stuff, just wondered if anyone knew before I actually put it on the drivers.
tom [/B][/QUOTE]
ASPORS
Damar is the sap from a pine tree that grows in southeast Asia. Grumbacher brand at Hobby Lobby is the brand that I selected; it was 1/2 the price of the other brand that they carry. Also, if you go on line to the Hobby Lobby site you can find a coupon for 40% off. |
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| Phergus_25 |
Does any one have the time to make me a paper template of the Fostex FE206E? I dont have the moeny to buy them right now so I am working on the horns and would like to have the hole cut so its a simple process to drop them in.
Thanks
Email- gregmavity@gmail.com |
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| nkemp |
I read through 20 pages and I'm interested in how it turned out. I'm sure it is the next 59 ... somewhere.
- Where is the final design?
- How does it sound ... how does everyone like it?
- Who built one?
Thanks,
Nick |
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| planet10 |
9th design down has links to all the current drawings posted in the thread.
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-fostex.html
They sound good... not quite as cntrolled in the bass as a Fonken, but a much easier build.
We built bipoles, folded monopoles, and some straight monopoles for mounting inside walls & ceiling.
dave |
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| MisterTwister |
| Dave, could you check link to "slim tower with Fonken tuning" on your website. 2nd from top. it leads to another design. This slim tower has most aesthetically pleasing design, I would like to see it closer :) |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by MisterTwister
Dave, could you check link to "slim tower with Fonken tuning" on your website. 2nd from top. it leads to another design. This slim tower has most aesthetically pleasing design, I would like to see it closer :) |
fixed. thanx for the QC
dave |
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| MisterTwister |
thanks for fix
here is my test cabinets, bass reflex.
they don't look too pretty, but sound incredible at low volume.
i use these speakers in small computer room. they are set on floor,
so computer desk space is saved. |
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| planet10 |
How much volume is that box? I've just designed a 4.5 litre box for the FE127 to serve as computer speakers or Bose killers.
dave |
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| MisterTwister |
| its approximately 13 liters, tuned to 50 hertz |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by MisterTwister
its approximately 13 liters, tuned to 50 hertz |
Pretty close to Fonken tuning (but the Fonken purposely uses a port that pushes it towards aperiodic. What kind of port do you have?
dave |
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| MisterTwister |
it's rectangular port in front, it's really hard to see on photo.
it's 3in x 0.75in and 3.75in deep.
top of cabinet is staffed with fiberfill (maybe i should add some more).
drivers' frames are covered with sculpting clay.
also bsc is added, which wasn't meant for this speaker, but fits quite nicely, at least to my taste.
it's 2.2mh inductor and 7ohm resistor. |
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| planet10 |
just checked... Fonken is 13 liters tuned to 59 hz with a port with almost 6x the area of yours.
dave |
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| dublin78 |
Phew
I have just read this thread from the beginning. This is great work and in the true spirit of DIYAUDIO.COM. Thank you all.
I am about to build the monopole v0.2.
Are they suitable for wall mounting?
Is any felt required, or just some polyfluff or similar?
I was about to build something with a pair of Jordan jxr 6hd, most likely a 3 litre sealed cabinet, wall mounted again.
Any idea what the sonic differences might be?
I will probably build both sets in the end.
I will be using a sub crossed at about 100Hz.
Best wishes to all. |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by dublin78
Are they suitable for wall mounting? |
Yes... removes any need for BSC
| quote: | | Is any felt required, or just some polyfluff or similar? |
That is a taste and style thing. I like putting a thin layer of wool or cotton felt on the walls and using a lower density of poly-fluff thru-out the box volume.
dave |
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| dj_oatmeal |
In post 527 Dave says the folded monopole design will not work for the 126. Why? I have a set of his modded 126s on the way and was looking at that box as a short term investment to have something to try them in until I can get to something better like the Frugel Horn. From my reading it seams like it will be due to bad bass but i' not sure if i'm right. If that is the only issue then maybe I can live with it for a few months. Could the design be changed in some way to work with the 126?
In post 373 Moray James posted about his 126 based karlson/TL box and I have searched high and low for drawings but can find nothing. Does anyone have plans for it? I like the look of that quite a bit. Thanks for any input. |
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| planet10 |
The Qt of the FE126e means it is less than optimal for an ML-TL. Tim did post an ML-Voigt that looked decent
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...4730#post534730
This can easily be folded (& dimensions shuffled) if needed.
I don't think Moray published drawings for his FE126 design. He has for the 166/167 thou.
dave |
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| dj_oatmeal |
Folded would fit my desire to have it small. From looking at other drawings of folded pipes it looks like I would just take the pointy end of the enclosure and put it behind the lower part. I would then need to leave a gap across the top of the internal separation. Is this correct and do any drawings exist?
Does the port need to be on the bottom or what effect would moving the port to the front have? |
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| planet10 |
Here is a folded variation. Things are a bit tight around the driver, so we turn that into an advantage by making the partition the brace,
dave |
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| dj_oatmeal |
| I like that a lot thanks for the drawing. How tight should the driver contact the cutout in the brace? |
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| planet10 |
| quote: | Originally posted by dj_oatmeal
How tight should the driver contact the cutout in the brace? |
The magnet should press tightly against the brace. The part where the back of the cone is needs to be more open. It will look funny, but you could minimize that by rotating the driver so that the partition lines up with a basket leg.
dave |
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| RTF |
Have a few beginner questions about the monopole design, I decided to try this one as it looks simple to build
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...tamp=1139772600
Where does the 200g of fill get placed and do I use fill as well as felt lining?
Is there something significant about the rectangle behind the driver? is that a physical part of the design or just a visual reference of some sort?
Thanks |
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