| Tall Shadow |
I'm using a OHP/Panel now and have been wanting to upgrade to a "All in One" projector.
I'd like it to be of a manageable size, and have been looking at the Lilliput beamers with great interest. I have searched to try to find out the max size that these will project without getting overly pixelated, but haven't seen any numbers yet.
I'm looking at doing a large screen (Around 110"diag) and would like to use a Lilliput, but I'm afraid of screen-door from hell if I use it.
HELP!!!!!!! :bawling:
Tall Shadow |
|
|
| SGSeeker |
with my 800x600 panel at 80" (typically), screendoor disappears completely when I'm somewhere around 5-6 feet away. 110" is about 60% larger so I'd estimate that at 8', you shouldn't notice screendoor. It really just depends on how well your eyesight is and whether you want to run with the projector slightly unfocused to get rid of screendoor.
this is a 4:3/4:3 comparison. My image is a bit smaller (I'm guessing a little smaller than 70") when running widescreen. I wouldn't be surprised if a 110" widescreen projection is around twice as large as what I project at widescreen (too lazy to do the calculations). I still say 8' would most likely be a good distance to eliminate seeing screendoor |
|
|
| Tall Shadow |
| quote: | Originally posted by SGSeeker
with my 800x600 panel at 80" (typically), screendoor disappears completely when I'm somewhere around 5-6 feet away. 110" is about 60% larger so I'd estimate that at 8', you shouldn't notice screendoor. It really just depends on how well your eyesight is and whether you want to run with the projector slightly unfocused to get rid of screendoor.
this is a 4:3/4:3 comparison. My image is a bit smaller (I'm guessing a little smaller than 70") when running widescreen. I wouldn't be surprised if a 110" widescreen projection is around twice as large as what I project at widescreen (too lazy to do the calculations). I still say 8' would most likely be a good distance to eliminate seeing screendoor |
Thanks for the reply SGSeeker!
I'm looking at My seating being about 10-12 feet back, so that wouldn't be a problem. :)
Anyone else want to give their thoughts?
Tall Shadow |
|
|
| Magnification |
What you project on is just as important as your projector itself. You might want to read this thread DIY SCREENS .
| quote: | original post mccamp82:
one more thing i should add. Many people have been having problems getting a good blue level using Lilliput projectors. I am not sure if this is a usual thing, or if it depends on the bulb you use, but if you are having trouble achieving a good blue level, you might be interested in the Misty Evenig Paint. It has a very slight blue tint to it, and it will aid in the blue level of the projected image. The same goes for those wanting deeper Reds. I would suggest the Silverscreen paint. It has a slight reddish tint. There is also a mix that someone invented called neutral grey. I has no color tint to it. It is straight grey (a white paint with a little black added). The coolest thing i have found is the White Opal Pearlescence. It adds a shimmery sheen into the screen which helps in brightness without hotpotting (as long as it is mixed in well with another paint...not to exceed 30% of the total mix). It allows you to use a greyer screen in order to help with contrast, without taking away brightness. Another thing that many over at AVS have claimed is that these paints help with the screen door effect. The screen door is diminished due to the grey color of the screens. Since the screen door is usually a grey-ish color, having a grey screen helps toe mask the effect of screen door. |
Also check out the example of a Light Fusion Screen |
|
|
| Tall Shadow |
Thanks for the screen info!
I've been a member on the AVS forums for quite a while now and have followed the DIY screen threads there with great interest.
I am using a BO cloth screen, but might upgrade to LF or just paint screen later.
Tall Shadow |
|
|
|