| biteon |
along time ago i had a met down on one of my projector projects. i use the two boards to keep my polvarizer intact with the lcd. now i got a problem with it(see picture below). but i think if i rout a 45 dreg. at the rectangle hole perimeter for the lcd,it might help the problem with the dim edges(just need to barrow a router. see im thinking some of you guys might have the same or simular problem with the housed in lcd setup(that why i kinda wanted to see a cut section drawing).
:D :D :D :D |
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| biteon |
| sorry i forgot the pic, here it is.opps. |
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| ap0the0sis |
First surface mirror is a mirror that has the reflective coating on the outside of it instead of behind the glass like regular mirrors.
Example: If you were to use a regular piece of mirror to bounce a projector image onto a wall you would get what is called "ghosting" (multiple images, not sharp, color fading etc.)
When you use a first surface mirror it bounces the image exactly as it is projected.
All projectors (every single one as i understand) use first surface mirrors in them to keep focus and contast rations high.
link: http://mirotek.com/images/what%20is...ce%20mirror.pdf
ap0the0sis |
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| biteon |
| i thought the 120v ac neg wire would work for the 12v dc ground .yes im still using the same shoot lcd cause luckly i got it fix enough to work. but i also blew out 3 fans and a computer power supply.note this was like 2 mounths ago on the day i got my lcd in from the ups. crazy |
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| biteon |
| opps i did it again |
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| ap0the0sis |
biteon,
im surprised that its still working, usually when you over heat an "IC" (the black chip that is shinny now) to the point it shines it usually burns out. looks like lightning hit your lcd module, ha!
ap0the0sis |
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| biteon |
the light didnt do that cause at the time i didnt have any light source. i was just seeing if it still work when i took it apart with out the original back light hooked up to it. see in ac power the curent moves back and forth, meaning you can get pwr through the neg. wire . yes im a lucky *****, cause that chip still works some what and i got a remote to turn on the lcd etc..
:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: |
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| biteon |
undream look at the red,and yellow lines.
every body that thinks a special made reflector can mak all the light go in one direction, look at the blue and yellow lines.
i think you some of you guys forgot about those blue lines. |
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| Undream |
well, first of all, I threw away that reflector.
And, second of all, I never claimed that it was accurate, or good, or that it would even work at all. I just tried something, because, it seems like nobody ever tries anything, they just sit around and talk here :)
I'm going to switch over to a longways-mounted bulb (like Marklar's), and stray away from the halogen-worklight styled reflector. I'm going to try to construct a curve as similar as possible to marklar's. However, I already know that I won't be able to make one as good. I've already scavenged the local lighting supplier stores looking for a reflector like the one that Marklar has, with nothing but funny looks and them telling me "That will be $230, want us to special order it for you today?"
Its frustrating as hell. |
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| biteon |
| where can i find a picture of Marklar reflector.i checked this whole thread and didnt find it. |
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| biteon |
did you know that alumunium melts really easy with a torch. maybe do what that one guy said to make a reflector with the foil adhesive,but instead of using adhesive ,i would melt al that aluminuim foil to getter than polish the inside.good idea and sound cheap.
:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool: |
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| woneill |
Undream,
There seem to be replacement elliptical reflector kits out there for stage lights - with prices going from $22 to $30. Check out the reflector thread. Your problems might be solved by $20 and a trip to ebay or one of the other suppliers.
ap0the0sis,
The price on your front surface mirror seems reasonable. They are only really worth it, though, if you are using them in the later stages of the optical path - like an OHP mirror, to bend the image through 90 degrees.
biteon,
You are correct about the reflector thing, which is why most reflectors are used with the bulb mounted longitudinally. This way, most of the light energy is bounced off the sides of the reflector, and not directly radiated out through the front.
Bill. |
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| woneill |
biteon,
Good idea about using the torch - couple that with the stuff in the reflector thread about making a mold for it, and you are done - an easy way to make an elliptical reflector around a plaster mold.
Any more DIY than this, and we'll be making our own LCDs...
Bill. |
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| Gunawan W |
biteon,
I think you got a hotspot at your projected image.
When light beam hit LCD panel at to much angle ( the best is 90 degrees angle to LCD surface). Light beam around the axis of the lamp will hit LCD at around 90 degrees, further away from the axis it more or less than 90 degrees, and you got dimmed around the end off all sides of the image. |
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| ap0the0sis |
i thought the price was resonable too... i was just checking since thi is the first time i get this product quoted.
my intention is to use this mirror with a lcd projector i bought off ebay. (im in the process of building one too) i just figured, for the deal i got, i had to buy it.
i want to ceiling mount this projector. unfortunately it was not designed for this. so my thought was to mount it on the ceiling and use 2 mirrors to bounce the image onto the screen.
pic attached: |
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| woneill |
ap0the0sis,
Your design should be ok, and the front surface mirrors should be perfect for the job - but make sure your projector is safe to be mounted upside down: as mentioned earlier, the high pressure MH bulbs are sometimes designed to be mounted one way.
If you mount them the wrong way up, they may explode, or simply die early - costing big buck$. If the bulb is horizontal in your projector, you should be ok.
Alternatively, for the price you will be paying for the mirrors, why not simply mount the projector in a cradle the right way up?
Bill. |
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| ap0the0sis |
I would love to mount it the "correct position" however this projector doesn't have a setting to flip the picture, only setting it has is to mirror the pic. (It wasn't designed to be ceiling mounted) so... I have to resort to mirrors to flip the picture the correct way. I figure the mirrors wouldn't be more than 5" square so they wont look so ugly, maybe make some kind of modern looking frame to hold them to the projector.
As for the bulb, It's horizontal so I dont think I'll have a problem with it. I did find a site that has the bulb replacement for this projector for $160 instead of $300 which is what most sites are charging for the whole assembly. (re-freaking-diculous)
I bet alot more people would have projectors if it weren't for the rediculous price of the replacement lamp. I mean, how much can it really cost to make one of these bulbs... $5.00? (if that much)
pic of bulb attached:
anyone know where to get this bulb cheaper? |
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| woneill |
Cool! Good luck with the mount!
Don't know about the bulb, though - check out that UK place mentioned in the alternative lighting thread - they seem to do bulbs quite cheaply.
Bill. |
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| biteon |
| my dig. cammra cant pick up any light from the projection on my screen. what is wrong. i only get a black pic but the screen is lit up. can some one help me out here.yes i tryed all the options on my dig. cammra. heres a picture of the funnel and cooling sys for the lcd ,its attached to the lcd. i forgot to put the fresnel,but it still worked but not as good. |
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| biteon |
| this is it in my box. i had to change my original reflector a little bit. i moved the side mirrors in closer to the center so i wouldnt loose all that lite. note this pic was taken when i didnt have the cooling sys. in the front, two days ago. |
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| biteon |
this is the mod i did to the reflector,but i plan to make a rectangel reflective pipe later or some thing like simular w/ bulb mounted pointed away from the lcd and very close to the lcd.
ps im starting to think that this 400wat mh makes options very limited and that i should have got the 1000watt mh. if its to bright i could just get some foged glass etc..this 400watt is on the edge of my mind. its like im thinking it "might" work but only just enough if done in the right way,but whats the right way?.
get what im saying"limited".
yo ***** it now, i dont got cash to buy part like that any more.
sticking to what i got. |
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| Redevil |
Hey Guys, here is the answer for getting the metal halide to
produce enought light. Im using a 250watt MH and getting a
90 inch, crisp, clear (all 4 corners) and bright picture. Set your bulb upright, put a curved reflector on half of the back side.
(0 ( is = reflector made of sheet metal (do not use mirror like
materials)
0= to the MH bulb
Then get a glass 2.5X lens and put it as close to the bulb as
possible. This makes a great point source light.
( 0 () = Point source light ()= 2.5X glass lens.
Then you need 2 page magnifiers. One must be right behind the
LCD panel with the ruff side facing the panel, smooth side out.
The second one needs to sit in the middle of the glass lens and
the lcd panel with the ruff side pointing to the panel.
Then you need a Plano Convex glass lens (5 7/8 inch Dia PCX lens 20"FL). The lens should have curved side facing LCD pannel.
( 0 () [} [} [] (] [[][]]
reflector MH lens P.M P.M &LCD Plano Convex Image
Make your setup horizontal (less heat on pannel) |
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| Blockhead |
Since the past monday, I have been a kid at christmas! LOL I got my n view spectra C and bauh 5,500 lummen projector running in its own theater room. My screen view during play is 7' by 4'...I would have to say the same as most who have tried the n view specrta C (Shocked that it worked as well as it did)...
I'm currently doing some tests with some different products to see if I can rid my macrovision from dvd player to panel...tomorrow I have a new device coming in so well see)...
I want to thank you all for your this forum..I now finally have a big screen!
-BLOCKHEAD |
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| Redevil |
Picture |
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| eebasist |
ap0the0sis
What size is your bulb? Watts, etc? That is really interesting.
BTW if you need 1000Watts means you are doing something really really wrong, or your image is projected on the side of a building. Plus the electric bill will start to eat into the savings from building it DIY. Take a look at commercial projectors, most use a 200-400watt bulb, 1000 is just overkill for the lcd panels we have.....with our contrast ratio's of 100:1 you will loose most of your blacks. |
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| ap0the0sis |
The bulb you see pictured in my last post is a 250W metal halide from my Sharp Projector, cost: $160 (bulb only) (complete replacement is $300.00). i think that is the ideal bulb for a projector since it is small and give out a great deal of light.
one thing i want to point out to you guys is that the size of the reflector you're using.... it's HUGE. take a look at the reflector assembly of my projector, its little. there is almost 3/4" between the bulb itself and the deepest part of the reflector.
also when i take out my bulb assembly i see a concaved glass lens right in fron t of it. i dont know the actually purpose of it but i imaging it is to make the beam of light widen to cover the whole lcd panel.
i am in the process of trying to open up this projector so that i may take pictures of it to help you guys out. (nothing better than to know how something works exactly)
BTW, this projector uses a 6.4" TFT LCD 800x600 480,000 pixel
ANSI is 220 which i believe is like at least 500 lumens. Give a very bright pic considering low light power |
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| ap0the0sis |
I just opened up my projector to check out it's guts and got some real usefull information. Let me begin by saying I can't believe these things cost thousands of dollars.
Here's the run down:
From light source through optic lens (lens is small and fat, dome shaped).
Light from the dome lens then bounces off a first surface mirror at a 45 degree angle (don't quote me on the angle).
Then the light goes through the first fresnel lens (same size as LCD, ripples facing LCD).
From the first fresnel it goes through a glass plate with a film on it (I believe it's the IR filter, about 1/2" gap between first fresnel and IR plate).
Light from the IR filter (1/2" gap between IR and LCD) then goes through the 6.4" LCD then another fresnel (about a 2" gap between LCD and last fresnel, ripples facing LCD) then the image from the LCD gets bounced off another first surface mirror and out the lens.
Thats it!
The pic on page 29 basically shows exactly how this projector works. just add a fresnel on each side of the LCD and there you go.
When I get a camera I'll take some pics.
ap0the0sis |
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| the whinner |
i appologize for my bad english, but i hope you will understand me!
i have an offer to buy non-functional DTK top-5a laptop for 50 $.
cpu is not working !
i read that laptop screen can't be used for projector because of the controler board etc.
i dont understand one thing!
i want to connect the screen from that laptop to vga out on desktop computer !
since most of the laptops have vga out for connecting external monitor, is there a way to trace back the wires from that vga out on laptop to some place inside of it (video card or something), and than to bring signal from desktop computer to that place, so it can be displayed on laptop's screen!
somebody please answer me, cos i need to decide should i buy that DTK or not!
thanks! |
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| eebasist |
| Don't waste your money on that. What type of laptop is it anyway.....speed, screen etc. It doesnt work that way, you cant trace it back into a vid card and then to the driver.....well you might be able to if you were the person who designed it and knows exactly how everything works.....but that is highly unlikely....youd have an expensive paperweight to play with. |
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| the whinner |
hey man, it is 12.1 inch tft 1024x768 16M!
FOR 50$, MAYBE EVEN LESS !!!!
there must be a way... |
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| Gunawan W |
Redevil,
with your setup, do you get even brightness on the whole projected image? No hotspot at all?
Is page magnifier same as fresnel panel in OHP?
If yes, have you ever try this setup:
(O() and then #1fresnel-LCD-#2fresnel-PCXlens.
I'm apologize to all of you, because I repeat wrote this setup again and again, I'm so curious with the result, I want to know is it better setup or not.
ap0the0sis projector on page 29 also has this configuration.
Woneill, what do you think, any progress?
thank's |
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| eebasist |
| whiner.....there really is no way.......what you have is a video card that has two outputs on it....one is a digital interface that goes to the lcd controller, the other is an analog VGA ouptut. you cant pass the analog signal into the video card and expect it to pump out a digital signal to the lcd controller. I wish it would work, but it wont........Otherwise we'd be buying those cheap replacement sharp TFT screens on ebay |
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| Redevil |
Gunawan W
You would not believe the picture that I am getting. It is totaly
Amazing. The picture is bright, and evenly spread with no hot spots . The distance from the wall to projector is only 10 feet.
This picture kicks axe. The image is projected onto a white bed
sheet . I plan on doing the rear screen thing. I purchased a
rear screen material for $65 CND (Grey colour). When I shine
the image onto it from behind it is to good to be true.
Next is to get good mirrors.
I have worked on this for 6 Months and have bien enjoying it for
3 weeks now. Im trying to attach a Diagram, and having no luck.
I can E-mail it to you if you want it.
Later |
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| SuckerFish |
Quick question... im new...
Would a «Dukane 4003 overhead projector» be good choice to use with my sharp qa-1650 in a dark room with low lamp light on?
I started a thread in the LCD section if someone could help me? I need a VGA cable for my sharp :) |
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| biteon |
| i found another problem with my lcd. it had a chrome looking film on it,thats what i thought was the polvarizer.its not a polvarizer. well i when to rip off one of the polvarizers and found another one under need it. i was like what this lcd come with 3 polvarizers. noway dude . i still dont no what that film is for but i do no it blocks light and when it heats up it gets loose from the lcd then it *****s up the way the light gose in the lcd and causes those moving static lines. now when my lcd heats up it fades the light. i think i can fix that etc.. all this time ive been using those two boards to keep that film on the lcd, thinking that the film was the polvarizer.dur dur we tarded. i might take my delta IV projection lens apart and use some of those lens for lighting and projecting (just to see what happens). if that dont work out then im doing the funnel thing and if that dont work out than red evils idea if non of this works out im sol. |
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| daveb |
Recent posts by "the whinner" are just the latest in a long series of questions all revolving around the potential contained in re-using laptop computers' LCD Panels.
The general response has been, for months, "ya can't do it, and if you could, it would be expensive".
My question to all your is this: What risk would you take to know if it really is feasible, even at the price?"
As I pointed out in a post I placed in this forum on 07-15-2002 04:56 PM, I'd be there in a minute if one of two things was true: Either I had the cash to blow on the experiment, or if I *KNEW* it would work.
I think we'd all admit that the cost of the Digital view controller board puts the project out of reach for some portion of the Do-It-Yourslefers. But for the ones who would just love to get XGA High colour in a 10" panel, and would be willing to pay for the (expensive) controller and a relatively cheap LCD, I truly believe this would be *IT*.
So here's an Idea. It's not a proposal yet but I thought I'd float it up to get a reaction:
We find someone (could be anyone here, really, with the initiative and resources) to test out the solution, financially backed by the rest of the interested parties. Call him/her the "tester". Suppose we then found 50 of us who were willing to send a crisp $10 bill to the tester to fund this experiment.
The tester receives $500, and goes about securing the components, including the digitalview controller board and a reasonably mainstream laptop LCD, to see if it's viable. This community would be a resouce for trouble shooting issues. Frequent status updates would be and excellent idea. It would almost be like all of us working on one project at the same time.
If it works, the tester is OBLIGATED to sell the board (either on e-bay, or even on this forum, at cost, if possible) and send 1/50 of the money back to each backer, less the cost of postage. Say that was $7 each, after postage and other money to buy cables and whatnot.
Would you pay $3 to know if this could be the solution many of us have been looking for. I would.
Worst case, the experiment is a total flop, and the board can't be used for anything more than a bookmark (a big one). Would you pay $10 to know that this simply is not possible? I would.
I hope this doesn't come across as a get-rich-quick scheme, because it could be taken as such. I admit it would require a degree faith on the backers' part, and competence & dilligence on the tester's part.
Could work. Comments? |
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| ap0the0sis |
redevil,
i cant see the last pic you posted. :(
could you email it to me so that i may know what your talking about?
thanks,
ap0the0sis
ap0the0sis@yahoo.com |
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| gebus |
He all,
Sorry for the sales pitch here but I am despret for cash and I know there is someone here that wants a projector cheap.
I put it up on ebay for $1.00 no reserve - 3day auction
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=1369478899
I also have a LCD panel I am going to list on ebay soon. I don't want to part with this stuff but I need to pay for a motor for my truck.
Thanks,
Mike |
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| Undream |
my latest design
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| the whinner |
first a litlle story:
2 months ago i bought IBM THINKPAD 370c laptop without AC adapter for 20 (twenty) $ !
in the input (connector) for adapter on laptop there were 4 pins, marked with + - G S .
then i spoked with 5 electric engeeners and one university profesor, and they all told me that there is some special electronics in the AC adapter, and that laptop and adapter are communicating and sending some signals to each other!
so, they all said it is NOT possible to make homemade adapter for that laptop!
after that 16 years old kid from my street asked me to sell him laptop for 20 $, and i did it!
next day, he took out power transformer from 30 years old record player, connected + to +, and - to -, left G and S pins unconnected, and now i am looking to HIS laptop, which is working OK, and i am p****d off!
another thing, on the laptop was written that it requires 20 volts 2.5 ampers, power transformer from his old record player is 14 volts, unknown amperage (probably lot less than 2.5 A), but it is working!
so dont tell anything is impossible!
now, i dont understand one thing!
those broken laptops have all the electronics they need in them!
so why it is impossible to bring signal from desktop's video card to laptop's video card and to get image on laptop's lcd screen? |
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| Gunawan W |
daveb,
you don't need to test the laptop panel, as long it has the controller needed to drive it then you go...
The main factor here is to find controller matching with the panel and if it's available, the price is way too high. Most laptop panel has perfect specs for DIY projector: 1024x768 TFT, 10.4" to 12", 200 or up:1 contrast ratio and so on...
Undream,
I think it's better put your setup up side down, because with the lamp in bottom, heat will and always go up and fry your panel. |
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| Gunawan W |
Redevil,
do you have any screen shot to show us? |
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| the whinner |
i made few diagrams i would like to share them with you
first diagram is from edmund optics ! it is basicaly how OHP works
second diagram is what i think your LCD projector would have to look like! i think you have to put panel BETWEEN two fresnels!
third diagram is how 100inchTV should look like! instead of second condenser lens you could use fresnel lens - full page magnifier (which is as big as 13" TV or 14" monitor and can cover whole screen) to collect all the light and beam it to the projection lens system. fresnel should be placed so that middle of it touches the middle of screen. that should also fix the problem with curved screens, since the fresnel should act as projection panel. since page magnifier has chromatic aberation, maybe second page magnifier used instead of projection lens system could correct that aberation. or you could use OHP head as magnifing lens.the second approach would be using only the lens from opaque projector. it has appropriate focal length to pick up and project big image (its stage is usualy over 12"x12"), and the lens itself is much bigger than OHP lens, so it would give much brighter image on the wall. i tried OHP head with my 100inchTV (without the fresnel) and picture was perfect, only pale, becouse there was not enough light since OHP lens is small and cant put enough light through itself.
besides, using opaque projector lens, instead of OHP lens, with LCD projector panel should also give you much brighter image (same reason - bigger lens passes more light), and therefore you can use less powerfull light source.
one more thing! as much as i know opaque projectors dont use fresnels, and have 2 or more light sources! does someone of you knows more about it? |
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| Redevil |
| Schematic diagram |
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| icculus |
| nothing spectacular to report. i decided to flip my OHP upside down and mount it to the ceiling. took me about 1.5 hours and approx $20 worth of peices parts from Home Depot. Used rubber bungee straps to secure panel in place. i'm pretty satisfied. the noise and heat are now over my head, and i can view the image from anywhere in the room. looks pretty silly, but an OHP in the living room looks silly no matter what. i'm not stopping here, but i'm putting a little more time into the pc aspect lately, not quite integrated into my existing HT equip yet. thinking about getting a winTV theater card. has tv tuner and 5.1 outputs. this project has turned into a collection of projects, have to take them one at a time. |
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| gav |
| hey icculus, why don't u build a thin chipboard box around the ohp, with a hole 4 the lens and a couple 4 the heat - you could paintit the same colour as your ceiling!! |
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| Marklar |
Well I havent been here for a while but I have found some new of intrest it is called a lamp house, there are some universal ones that range in 200 - 2000 watts these are made for hi quality projectors I havent found a place to buy them yet so im not sure how much they cost but i think one of these might have a good reflector built in and you may be able to get a different lamp that has a longer life.
Jake hardee |
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| Undream |
I know its downright rediculous, but, I had an idea a few weeks ago that is just silly enough to generate buzz.
Basically, its an idea for gamers.
I was sitting in front of my computer one day, and had a page magnifyer sitting next to me. I picked it up and kinda playfully started magnifying things. After magnifying my finger, and my keyboard, I put it up to the screen.
Instantly I thought, dang, this is kinda cool. You can get it to the point where, its really, really big. Then I started thinking.
Get 4 page magnifiers, mend them together into a giant one thats like 2 feet x 1.5 feet, and craft a small stand that holds the giant fresnel vertically sitting over your keyboard in front of you. Sure, it would look completely rediculous. But, I seriously think you could cover nearly all of your direct and peripheral vision with one giant computer screen.
I'm not too sure whether there would be like, breaks or lines in the image from the seams in the mended page magnifiers, thats what I was kinda wondering.
Still, what do you think guys, worth the $25 for kicks?
Fear playing Quake3 or something and feeling totally enveloped within the game. |
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| the whinner |
just to inform you!
i bought that DTK fortispro top-5a laptop for 50 $, and opened the screen!
on the right side it has 8 wires that goes to small circuit, and than 2 wires goes to light bulb (or tube, i dont know the right word) for iluminating the screen!
on left there are 30-40 wires that goes to the screen! i guess 24 of them are for video signal, rest i dont know! does anybody have some wiring diagrams, pinouts or something? or any idea? |
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| Undream |
| Nope no ideas. Precisely why we advised you not to buy it in the first place! |
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| eebasist |
| Each board uses a propriatary connector/driver. You cant simply use the pinout from one and think it will be the same for the other. The only thing i can think of to get yours working is to do this. Determine if the laptop's onboard video is one of three things.....agp, pci, or chipset based. If its chipset based you loose. If its agp, or pci, you could try and determine where the bus meets the video card and solder connections to a working pc.......good luck, Its most likely not going to work though. |
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| the whinner |
about buying laptop...you cant know something unless you try it!
i can tell you what is written in the manual!
adapter type: Chips and Technologies, inc. 65554 PCI version 4
i will try to find some computer repair guys tomorow to talk about that, but i guess they wont know it!
and about my other posts, any comment on diagrams (particulary 100inchTV, since i dont have LCD panel, and thats my primary route for now )! |
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| Marklar |
| Does anyone know the life is the GE PXA lamps there is a PXA-44, 45, 50, 80 the 50 is 125000 lumens and i have found it for $80 the 44 i found for $50 but im not sure of the lumens on it. I cant seem to find any info on the life even in the ge lighting catalog. BTW these have a color temp of 6000K and flash 120 times a sec for flicker free viewing normal lights flash 60 times a sec such as florescent those are the most noticable. |
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| eebasist |
What would you use to power them. These bulbs remind me of strobe lights.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/b/i/p/pxa50.html
They also look different for each of the bulbs....ie the -44 looks like a straight tube
I'd hate to see the electric bill of on of these. They eat 4,000 watts, thats just way to much for anything home related, IMHO. |
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| ap0the0sis |
eebasist,
i believe that is a stobe light. has to be. you would only get that kind of current from a good capacitor setup |
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| Marklar |
Donno if you heard of Ohms law but I use it daily amount of current depends on amount of voltage required if im not mistaken these use several hundred volts I.E. 400W HPS 240V = 1.66 amps the 4000W PXA 600V = 6.66 amps any standard outlet can handle 15 - 20 amps depending on what size citcuit it is. The 600 is just a guess its prolly higher like 1kv but I just want to show you how that works.
Just found this.
Electromagnetic noise is generated during the discharge voltage of the flashlamp because of high instantaneous peak currents and the high voltage trigger pulse (3 to 4 kV) required to ionize xenon. Some applications may require shielding of the lamp through enclosure in a grounded metal housing. 1100 Series Lite-Pac® Trigger Modules and Power Supplies utilize noise-suppression circuitry to minimize this problem
With this kind of voltage it is very important to be carefull a charged cap can knock you on you butt real quick. |
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| eebasist |
Yes I am quite aware of Ohm's law....I too used it frequently. I wasnt saying that 4000 watts isn't possible out of the home....just not the best idea for economic sense. The heat it would also create would pose an issue as well.....also figure for about 5,000 watts of power with a power source thats semi efficient.
BTW....the capacitor required would be able to do more than knock you on your ***, it should be able to kill you.....just look at a simple photo flash unit....that will shock you, imagine the power needed in a cap for something that size. |
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| ap0the0sis |
found a site that has projection lamps for next to nothing, unfortunately they only have lamp/bulb #'s no pics.
link:
http://www.ceitron.com/passive/ge.html
check it out. might get a great lamp for nada.
ap0the0sis |
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| Marklar |
eebasist,
I doubt you will get killed off of a cap it would be like a stun gun and give you a good shock but a cap cant hold enough charge to really hurt you bad but it is enough to give you a bad day :/ |
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| daburnd88 |
| so what color temperature is the most ideal for projecting with an ohp lcd panel? |
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| eebasist |
whinner
nope, no one here is going to be able to help you with that.
you are going to have to trace it out on the PCB to determine where exactly the PCI bus integrates with the video card....reason no one can help is because we wont be able to do it without having it.....even then you are looking at many hours of work............i wish you the best of luck, but i dont think you'll be getting this beast to work again. |
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| Blockhead |
I ordered 2 new bulbs for my Buhl 2963 OHP. They are 400 watt halogen 5,500 lummens...When I put them in I noticed I can see the bulb on my screen (It is like the light is not totally diffused) Everything looks fine in the housing of the bulb...it is put in straight and seems aligned fine but when I turn it on and watch a dvd I do notice a light spot in the center (it is not overwhelming but it is a concentration of my my bulb light) Any suggestions to the steps I take to try to resolve this.
(1 week so far 7 movies watched in my new theater Wa HOOOOO!)
-Blockhead |
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| icculus |
| see irf your projector has an ajustment to move the bulb back and forth |
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| Mitch |
Whew...! I`ve just read about a gazzilion posts on this stuff. Hey heres my plan. Tell me if you guys think it`ll work.
I have a 14" LCD pc monitor, and a rear projection screen from Da-Lite. I want to build my projection screen into the wall and stick my LCD screen back there (yeah, theres room) with a Fresnal lens (or two, whichever is better) and stick it as close as I can get it to the rear proj. screen and still get a 48" x 36" picture.
Seems to me that a pc LCD monitor would put out plenty of light for a screen thats only as big as what I said. Plus there will be no ambient light behind that wall where the LCD screen is. With an adapter or two I should be able to plug my DVD into my LCD monitor.
What do you guys think about that?
Mitch |
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| slize |
hey Mitch,
that thing with the wall sounds not bad; the only problem is the lcd will not be bright enough. I tried the same thing with a 21" TV (no not the 100" big-screen thing with the fresnel lenses; i built my own lens with eye glasses and had a sharp but too dark 60" picture) but it didn't work out though :(
If you double the picture size you'll need 4 times more light behind the screen.
And in your case that would mean you want to make a 60" picture out of a 14" lcd screen, so the screen has to be 16 times brighter to have 60" picture that is worth to see a movie. With the TV I had a projected picture that was 8 times darker than the picture on the TV itself and it wasn't worth to look at it. Just imagine you turn the brightness and contrast on your pc monitor on 100 and then you turn it both back to 6. That would be the brightness of your projected image on the screen (in a completly dark room).
You won't have ambient light behind the screen but there is still light on the screen from the front, so you can only watch films in a dark room.
I think your lcd has about 250cd/m... = 250 lumen. So you would need a light source that produces about 4000 to 5000 lumens to make your project work.
You would have to open your lcd and replace the backlight...
The last part is only a suggestion, because i am still working on that and haven't finshed it yet.
You can try on your own risk and if you have finished it before i have plz let me know if it works... ;)
Sorry for my bad english, hope you got what I mean
Andy |
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| slize |
| quote: | Originally posted by the whinner
about buying laptop...you cant know something unless you try it!
i can tell you what is written in the manual!
adapter type: Chips and Technologies, inc. 65554 PCI version 4
i will try to find some computer repair guys tomorow to talk about that, but i guess they wont know it!
and about my other posts, any comment on diagrams (particulary 100inchTV, since i dont have LCD panel, and thats my primary route for now )! |
If you really wanna use a laptop with the lcd panel, there are USB tv-cards (apr. 80$) for notebooks. You could connect your DVD-player or whatever, even your pc if it has a graphic card with tv out to the laptop. Only problem is these USB tv-cards only give out a resolution of 328x248 (or something like a 4" display). So the xga panel of the notebook would be useless... That's why i didn't try it. But may be they are better now...
Hope that helps...
Andy |
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| Jason |
| Due to a lack of activity in the subforums, and people not being able to find threads properly, all threads have been merged back into the video area. I hope that this makes it easier for you to find what you're looking for. |
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| Mitch |
Thanks for the reply, Andy.
The only reason I thought it would be bright enough is because its with a LCD computer monitor and not a regular TV. Computer monitors are brighter than TVs.
Anyways, tell me what you think.
Mitch |
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| th0ma5 |
Hi,
i have a question about a lcd ...
Which adjustments do i have to make before i can use a lcd screen (5") in my projector ???
Do i have to to remove the back.... and tape a fresnel lens behind it???
Or do i have to completly remove back + backlights?????
PLEASE...help me
thx thx thx .....etc |
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| slize |
you are right mitch,
lcds are brighter... but not bright enough with their original backlight. you will even see a projected picture, but it will be too dark; not much contrast and very dark colours
but just like whinner says: everything's worth a try
and if it doesn't work you can still think about replacing the backlights of your lcd with much brighter bulbs.
it's nearly the same thing like this ohp - panel constructions, which the most in here have built very successful; most ohps have not enough light for the panels even if they have up to 2000 lumens. and your lcd's backlight only has 250-350 lumens, that is why i think the picture will be too dark...
Andy |
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| slize |
Today i've read something, that makes me think about the notebook again.
This USB TV-card has such a bad resolution (383x234dots) because the data stream of USB is too low (1,5MB/sec in the best case).
But i read about USB2 with a data stream of 60MB/sec.
I didn't find a TV card which supports USB2 yet, but I'm sure there will be one in the near future. Or may be there still is, then please let me know...
If you had that thing, and let's say it supports a resolution of 800x600 or even 1024x768, then you could buy a notebook that has USB and could connect your DVD-player to the card, the card through USB to your notebook and watch the films on your notebook's tft screen. Then you take the panel apart, and use it WITH the notebook.
The advantage would be that there won't be the problem to make the panel work on a normal controler card, because you would use the original controler with the notebook...
So keep on searching for such an USB2 TV card... :D
Andy |
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| tech head |
slize
If all you are using it for is dvd's, hten why not just get a lap top with a built in dvd? |
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| slize |
because you need a very fast notebook for viewing dvds; so this is too expensive
with my way you could use a notebook at 300MhZ (which is not enough for viewing dvds) to put the signal from your local dvd-player through...
:( but i forgot to mention that u need a notebook that supports USB2; no idea how much THAT costs...
so i think this will just remain an idea... |
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| eebasist |
| you're not going to find a notebook supporting usb2 for a 300MHZ machine either |
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| DaJoker |
That's not necessarily true. You can
get PCMCIA USB cards now. I'm sure
it's only a matter of time before there
are USB2 cards available. |
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| slize |
| aren't there any pcmcia tv-cards for notebooks? |
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| eebasist |
Yes i'm sure a PCMIA card will come out, however on a 300MHZ computer what good will it do. Sure you will run win 98, albiet barely, and then the pcmcia card will have its own overhead.....it might never be released as PCMIA but as cardbus and stop that dead in its tracks.
I just think that trying to get a 300MHZ laptop to do it wont cut muster cheaply |
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| cowanrg |
laptops are a great idea, but have downsides...
they arent cheap by any means. and to use it for projection, it will need to be dismantled, so its not like you could really use it as a regular computer all that often.
secondly, the screens are fairly large nowadays. and if they are smaller, they are not TFT, or not high res. so the screens that would work for projectors are going to be a little too large.
next, if you are going through ALL this trouble, why not just spend $400 and get a lcd monitor for your computer? you can then get a $30 tv tuner card for your desktop, and all is good. you dont have to shell out for a laptop, and god knows that once the USB2 tv tuners come out, they wont be cheap. plus, most people thought of using older laptops, but, older laptops wont have usb2...
so, the laptop isnt really that great of a solution (not to mention those screens dont really "come apart" too easy to fit into a case for a projector". its too much money, when you could just get a cheaper lcd flat panel monitor, and you are at the same point with the laptop for 1/3 the cost, and none of the hassles. |
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| ap0the0sis |
Im looking for a 1 foot piece of 40 pin flat ribbon cable.
#'s on the wire are as follow:
E66085 AWM 2896 80C VW-1 BANDO - s
Anyone know where to find it or something similar.
Thanks,
ap0the0sis |
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| daveb |
Try www.google.com, and the search string
AWM 2896 80C
You'd be surprise what you find, inlcuding a guy with one to sell for $1.
Google's an amazing thing. The stuff you can find there. Just a few key words...
dave |
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| cowanrg |
uh, if im not mistaken, isnt that an IDE HD cable? if so, they are easy to get. can go on pricewatch.com, and look for IDE cables, OR, just goto best buy or compusa. will be like $2. HD cables might be 80 pin, but whatever, chop one in half :)
| quote: | Originally posted by ap0the0sis
Im looking for a 1 foot piece of 40 pin flat ribbon cable.
#'s on the wire are as follow:
E66085 AWM 2896 80C VW-1 BANDO - s
Anyone know where to find it or something similar.
Thanks,
ap0the0sis |
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| eebasist |
| yep HD cables...the older ones are 40 pin, make sure you dont get one of those new ata 66 or ata 100 cables because those are the 80 pin suckers.......but the older 40 pin cables should be cheaper and thicker wires....if you need thin wires you could always go with the 80 wire one and cut it in half or use every other connection.......that will be a PITA to solder though. |
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| Mario007 |
| You can get tv tuner cards for notebooks. But what is the point most notebooks don't have enough power to run any cool program like dscaler. Plus as far as a computer goes they aren't very powerful. Also ribbon cables are a big deal. I've seen usb2 pc cards for like 60$. If you are looking for tuner cards on ebay try typing in pcmcia video. |
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| cowanrg |
not to mention radioshack and like places have PCB mount connectors.... you can just mount to a small PCB, and solder on the wires you need. this would be easiest. and, if you needed less than that, you could just break off what you dont need.
what are you using this for btw? |
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| Mario007 |
| Can somebody please start a thread on using a laptop panel for projection? Because it is clogging up the main thread. |
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| ap0the0sis |
newp, its not a HD cable. I have hundreds of those laying around.
It's the flat wire that connects my LCD panel to the module/driver board. basically less than an inch wide and paper thin.
I need to extend the 5" it comes with to over a foot long.
I found a post (on goodle) of a guy that is looking for the same thing but found one for $57.00. I dont want to spend that much.... no way!
ap0the0sis |
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| Mitch |
Andy,
You mentioned replacing the bulb in the back of the LCD. Do you know if this is a complicated thing to do? Cause if its not too hard, I may do that.
Also, does you know what kind of bulb is a good one? How much do they cost?
Thanks for your help,
Mitch |
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| icculus |
| i found an assortment of nice ribbon cables in a busted DVD player. was able to use one of them for the same purpose of relocating panel. make friends with an a/v repair tech or something. |
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| slize |
mitch,
the bulb is the most discussed problem in this forum. The point is, it has to be very bright (about 5000 to 6000 lumens), but not too hot with a colour temperature of 6000 K and has a longlife (more than 2000h). There is written something about that in the other posts before. Some people found some good lamps... I haven't yet... there is more in that old forum "DIY Video Projector Part one"; there you can find problems with lamps people had...
May be you find an idea there.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...15&pagenumber=1
And taking the lcd monitor apart IS a hard thing (or i am just too dumb :p , because i already crushed one...), that's why i am not able to say if it works; i'm still searching for a new(used) LCD Monitor...
Andy |
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| multiplexor |
Hey all :)
Just to be sure, but the lens used in an overhead projector is a plano convex lens right?
I'm thinking of just buying it and buying a light and building my own box like a bunch of others here. :)
thanks :)
Edit:
I just checked out surplusshed and found a bunch of diff types of lens.... what would be the ideal spec i'm looking for?
for all i know, i'd get this one since it's got a large Diameter... :)
PLANO CONVEX LENSES
Item No.: L1523
Dia.(mm) 44.00 - F.L. (mm) 400 - At least 25 available.
Price: $4.00 or 10 for $30.00
hehe :) |
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| amblix1 |
Hey everyone, reading all this is really intriguing. I REALLY want to make one of these babies as I do not care to spend 3K+ on a TV.....
I just wanted to say Hi, and also is this site "http://www.diyprojectors.com" going to come up soon? |
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| cowanrg |
hehe, yeah, it will come BACK up soon. you must be a newbie. when the site went down, it had over 35K hits :-)
ill try and get it back up this weekend. i had a problem with my host. and lost interest in the projector thing.
ill try though, there is a lot of good info there for newbies. |
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