| Forrest |
Hello all, I recently purchased the IO DATA A15V and haev subsequently striped it down.
Pretty easy to do and i will try and attach pictures on my next post if anyone is interested.
But help...
While mucking around i scratched the panel with a fresnel lens (dumb i know) and now when it projects i get a black scratch mark.
I was wondering if i had perhaps scratched the polarising film???
if so could i remove it all and replace it with a sheet of polarising film from a photography shop or something...don't really want to remove it at the moment as it seems like i will just get a black picture without it...
For the love of all that is good could someone please help me out here
Thanks:bawling: |
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| slize |
hi @ all,
here are the results of my projector;
the last picture is horrible, i will post more real projected pictures nextime, with a better digi cam. then i will use a anamorphic lense too...
till then
with best regards
slize |
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| chbright |
I was wondering if it is possible to create a point light sourse by taking a small parabolic reflector from a studio like such as this
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh2.sph/FrameWork.class?FNC=ToLargeImage__Aattributelist_html___53909___SID=F4FCD5B7520
then use a condencer lense from the suplus shed to focus the light into a point. My current fears are that:
a) Aspherical aberation
b) heat
c) will a 400W bulb fit in this reflector.
The reflector pictured is only 5" in diameter but the site that I found the reflector at also sells a 7" diameter model. The reason i am leaning towards the 5" model is because the suplus shed sells a 4-7/16 " condencer lens and this lens when paired with the 5" model should (I think) be more effiecent.
I'm willing to give it a shot but I would like to know if this sounds reasonable before I try it.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. |
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| Mavmesa |
Does not sound right to me as the parabolic reflector should produce a 5" or 7" diameter parallel beam of light, not a beam that focuses to a small point (that is required to use the condenser lens).
Ken |
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| ace3000_1 |
if that reflector puts out the required width of beam u wont need a condenser, all a condenser does is not only magnify the light but its used to widen the bean to the desired width, if the beam is wide enough for u just use a frensel to help distribute the light evenly over the panel and it will also magnify the light. Bulbs that have a small burning ark are better because they have a much more brighter light and it is more controlable, that is when u use a condensing lens, and the reflector in a ohp is only small because all it is doing is just guideing light from a small ark and its just there to reflect the light from the back of the bulb to the condenser so u have less wastage of light or u could say using more of the light, now what doesnt go through the condenser lens from the reflector will go through the frensel anyway so the losses in a ohp is very small.
goodluck in what your going to try and let us know how u go with it
Trev |
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| chbright |
so would going with something like this reflector work better and maybe eliminate the need for the rear fresnel if i split an ohp fresnel?
P.S.
Is this a good deal for this type of reflector? |
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| ace3000_1 |
| how much does the reflector cost? |
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| ace3000_1 |
if u take away a frensel your light must be diffused, if it isnt diffused enough u will get hot spots on the screen showing on the projected image, a hot spot is a bright patch like the center of the image is brighter than the side's , the best person to speak to about this is probally proto5 he has a great setup and he could help u with your answers more than me as im building mine from scratch with abit of diff technology for a different system
Trev |
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| slize |
my experiences with reflectors show, that it doesn't only guide the light to the fresnel, but it will also guide the heat to the fresnel and to the lcd. and this is a major problem; at least it was for me; the reflector (looked like this shown one) put all the heat to the lcd panel and it gets that hot that pixels began to shut; the picture got darker and darker; and I wouldn't say that it has such great advantages compared to the picture without the the reflector; there the big advantage is the lcd stays cool and there is enough light.
I will post pics of projected pics next week; as soon as I get the digi cam again, and i've finished my anamorph lense for the projector.
best regards
slize |
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| ace3000_1 |
yeah your right slize the reflector throws all of the heat at the lcd too, anyway that lcd that got darker and darker did it come back to normal? also what bulb type wer u using and did u have a uv filter?
Trev |
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| slize |
| yeah luckily it came back to normal; i used a 400W MH bulb and didn't use a uv filter, because the heat doesn't come from the uv-rays but from the ir-rays... |
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| ace3000_1 |
yeah thats right about the uv containing any heat but ill warn that it has some and its penertrating heat not radiant like ir, also if u havnt done it already i would filter the light with a uv filter cos the lcd will go black in time and break down from the uv rays, anyway great to hear that you got your screen back and good luck diy
Trev |
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| chbright |
In my previous post I meant to post a link to this reflector , not the other reflector.
This should give me the effect of using a point light source and a fresnel, right?
Sorry for my incompetence . |
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| slize |
you're sure about that? i mean the lcd will get damaged without an uv filter? how it comes that an ohp has no uv filter and you can run an lcd on it without the warning that it will get damaged? Did u already experienced that effect?
slize |
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| slize |
| the reflector looks fine i would try it espacially for that price |
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| slize |
because of the uv filter; as far as i remember a simple glas is sufficant as an uv filter... i remember how my physics teacher told us we can't get brown skin if we're sitting in the room, because the glas filters out the uv rays, and only the ir rays go through that's why romms are heaten up in the summer... and i have 4 glas before the lcd...
slize |
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| ace3000_1 |
yeah its somthiong im looking into about the uv im not a full bid on it, but since ive put perspex infront of my light it has made the lcd cooler somwhat and i got that idea out of the forum, wheather it is a uv filter im not sure, but with uv i know its a penitrating light source and that is why it damages things, about the heat from it the only change i noticed is whith the perspex, but forsure the radiant heat is in ir, ir is the one we need to kill the most as in heat, with the uv damaging the lcd or discolourising it ive gotten that info out of here too so it isnt probally too acurate, but i think with such a strong uv source light a 400w mh, it might damage the lcd over time. Glass as uv filter im not too sure about because now days u can get mh bulbs with a uv filter built in, now if glass blocked uv why do they need the filter? lol maybe glass blocks a small amount, who knows, i know i dont , but anyway maybe u could help us out here and give us some coments or answer's.
Best regards Trev |
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| Property |
Hi...
I don't see many examples of a setup like this:
Spotlight---> fresnel----> lcd panel---->
Projection Lens----> screen
Where the spotlight is one of these 500W - 2000W Dj spotlight the kind you find in DJ equipment stores or Theater equipment stores (also known as Fresnel Spotlights).....
And the Projection lens is the kind you find for film projectors (moving films, slides, etc...like this one Lens
)
Can someone point me to someone's project that has a setup like this or tell me if they know of this kind of setup being successful?
Thanks |
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| eebasist |
| reason is that those dj and theatre lights (90% of more of them) use a halogen bulb of high wattage and low life. You'll typically see a 600-1000 W halogen bulb in there with a life of 75 hours on them and they cost 20-50 dollars each....but the problem really lies in that these bulbs put out a ton of heat....ever see a production and the actors are sweating because of the lights.....they get damn hot. There is no way to get rid of that heat effectively. |
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| slize |
| yeah you're right; i've finally decided to put a uv filter in front of the lcd; i mean it's not that expensive and not worth to risk any damage :) |
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| slize |
| my setup is exactly what you are talking about; go to the link on the previous site; the light is use was originally a spot light for theatres...; by the way the picture there has a horrible quality; i will post pictures with real projection quality of my projector this weekend; in addition with my new diy anamorphic lense hehe :nod: |
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| slize |
p.s.: i use a 400W MH bulb
lifetime about 2000h
output 36000 lumens |
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| Property |
Nicely built slize...So that type of projection lens mechanism would allow for a longer thow distance right? i mean distance from projector to screen (of course depending on type of lens) right?
Also the picture you took of the screen seems a little dim, especiall for 400w as compared to some of the pictures i've seen of OHP systems....Is it just the camera u used or is that a by-product of using this type of projection lens? |
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| slize |
| it's just the camera; just like i said i will post better pics with a better cam this weekend... |
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| slize |
| the throw distance from the lense to the screen is 2,5m (83" i think) and the picture diagonal is 2m (66" i think)... |
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| rmccoll |
I'm selling my projection equipment you get a 4 inch partsexpress lcd only half of the screen works tried to extend one of the ribbon cable did'nt work.
Next the 5 inch Sony Psone lcd screen it works but i cant get o picture to come up, the backlit is removed, power supply included.
Fuginon tv projection lense nothing wrong with expect a little dust.
All for a cheap price of $40 i don't know what you can do with it, it's getting in my way and i'm tired of looking it please somebody take it off my hands.
Heres a screen I made that works great, take a acrylic sheet from lowes and stick some white or translucent cloth behind it then you set try it |
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| ace3000_1 |
ok with the screen idea of using perspex, im not sure if u would loose light with it and may i sugest that cleaning perspex is a bummer cos it doesnt matter what u use it scratches to the **** , but anyway on the other hand it would give u a pro look in the day and no doubt look great for moves, but i would sujest painting the back of the screen siler or flat white cos u got the shine on the front of the screen(perspex)
Trev |
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| slize |
hi,
found a interesting page about uv-filter; the interesting thing about it that thez talk about negative things for biological materials... http://www.pege.org/w/uvc.htm |
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| Property |
| quote: | Originally posted by rmccoll
Next the 5 inch Sony Psone lcd screen it works but i cant get o picture to come up, |
What does that mean? |
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| Property |
So can someone tell me what is the best little (sub 12") LCD..in other who makes the mini lcd screens with the highest resolution? Or what is generally the highest resolution you can get out of one of the small ones like a 5" or 7"?
Thanks |
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| LeetCoder |
Hmm I walk around the home depot store today and found this 500W working Halogen lights. I found some bulb that is around 9,000 Lumens. This might do well for projector light since its pretty cheap. It include a UV filter lens in front. Can anyone tell me will this light work? 9,000 lumens seem like nothing compare to the metal halide bulb which is around 36,000 to 40,000 lumens.
well for $9 buck hmmm..
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...t=halogen&DRC=4 |
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| Marklar |
Hows everybody doing? I have been messin with my projector for the past few weeks and was trying different setups with my 1000W MH light. using foil and other stuff and keeping the light about a foot away from the lcd panel, just out of curiocity i put the reflector back on with out the front shield and put it right aginst the glass behind my fresnal lens and omg it was alot brighter im gonna try to take pics of this when i get my digi cam back.
Jake |
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| LeetCoder |
| Have anyone research into the Hortilux lights? It seem to be much brighter than the metal halide. It said to produce high spectrum of light similar to the sun.... a 400W bulb can light up to around 60,000 lumens. Anyone know if this bulb is too hot for the projection project? .......... |
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| LeetCoder |
HEh well it seem like everyone gave up on LED as light source... Well maybe this info will help you people understand more about the LED light.
http://www.lumileds.com/pdfs/techpa...es/SPIE2001.pdf
It seem that it said that combining the R G AND B color LED together will produce higher lumens. Hmmm well it say that it is use as backlight for lcd. Maybe this will give some hope into making LED as light source.
:idea: |
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| Property |
I believe I've come up with a simple solution to solve any and all heat problems with any type of bulb....
Submersible Light Fixtures!
The kind they use to put lights under swimming pools, ponds, even aquariums....
That way we can forget about a "water cooling system" and just place the hole damn thing in a a tub of water (not the front lens of the fixture of course...we don't want the light to shine though water...or do we...pum pum pummmmmm)....
Of course there is a slight weight issue...But a draining valve can easily be made...and there is a leakage issue....but some kind of gutter drain can be incorporated to protect vital components from getting soaked....
thank you |
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| Property |
| SO now you can all try that 2000W Halogen you've been aching to stick in without having to worry about heat problems... |
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| Property |
Here's DIY Aquarium
But there seems to be a fatal flaw in this guys plans cuz i don't think silicon is THAT strong!
fishies |
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| zardoz |
| quote: | Originally posted by Property
I believe I've come up with a simple solution to solve any and all heat problems with any type of bulb....
Submersible Light Fixtures!
The kind they use to put lights under swimming pools, ponds, even aquariums....
That way we can forget about a "water cooling system" and just place the hole damn thing in a a tub of water (not the front lens of the fixture of course...we don't want the light to shine though water...or do we...pum pum pummmmmm)....
Of course there is a slight weight issue...But a draining valve can easily be made...and there is a leakage issue....but some kind of gutter drain can be incorporated to protect vital components from getting soaked....
thank you |
Do a little searching in the forum .... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...81659#post81659
Follow down the thread this link takes you to...
zardoz....ever watch a dog chase it's own tail? |
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| Property |
Well zardoz i read the thread and i didn't find any problem with my solution....In fact when you think that you can easily drain the "tub" that the lighting fixture sits in and can also place ice cubes in the tub....welll...it works out rather nicely....And all the problems discussed in that thread are solved....including noise...
Here's a sketch: |
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| Property |
Please no one try this without a circuit breaker in your electrical system.
Without one you have an EXTREMELY high chance of a major fire occuring...
But with a nice fuse in your wiring....This solves the heat/noise problem.
Thanks
And please somebody hook me up with an lcd deal for my projector for such a beautifully simple solution....
P.S. i think most people missed this solution because they were all thinking in terms of PC case cooling....
But light fixture cooling is a whole different ballgame....Only one wire and the fixture can be encapsulated. |
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| proto5 |
Man...
I thought I was nuts!
You guys have really lost it on this one!
It's the LCD that needs cooling, not the MH lamp. Have you ever seen a cooling fan on a grow lite or warehouse lite????
And the only really efficient way to cool the LCD is to not try to shove the wrong polarity of light through it. ALA- light recycling- repolarization. |
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| verbose mustafa |
| Are you really going to make ice cubes everytime you want to watch a movie? Really, I mean how practical is this thing going to be? |
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| Property |
I guess i should start a Seperate thread on this so please post your comments/suggestions there....
Thanks |
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| Property |
| quote: | Originally posted by proto5
Man...
I thought I was nuts!
You guys have really lost it on this one!
It's the LCD that needs cooling, not the MH lamp. Have you ever seen a cooling fan on a grow lite or warehouse lite????
And the only really efficient way to cool the LCD is to not try to shove the wrong polarity of light through it. ALA- light recycling- repolarization. |
NO NO....The LCD Cooling is the easy part...with filter (UV/IR) glass and air space....The Major problem is ambient heat, espescially with halogen...and this water tub could act as a GIANT heat sink for heat throughout the projector as well..
Please post comments suggestions in the "Submersibles" thread...
And ice cubes is no problem...just keep some in the fridge for your projector....and they may not even be needed...water might be enough......and cheaper than wasting electricity on fans...and removes *ALL* noise....
thank you |
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| proto5 |
Property:
Notice I had said MH lamps.......
Quit messing with those hot-*** halogens and you wont need an electric aquarium.......and the fish would be way happier.
:bigeyes: |
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| Property |
| And this is a solution for effective cooling for people who want to venture into the 400w + bulb areas.... |
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| verbose mustafa |
| property... Have you ever run a metal halide lamp before? |
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| Marklar |
| Im starting to wander why you guys are going crazy over cooling the light. Are you afraid the light bulb or ballast is going to get to hot or what? |
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| Property |
| quote: | Originally posted by verbose mustafa
property... Have you ever run a metal halide lamp before? |
No i haven't it's true i'm sorry....
BUT..i'm sure those fan noises are annoying... |
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| verbose mustafa |
| Marklar, your right! a fan should take care of keeping the lamp cool. They are made to get hot. Those 400 watters are usually in overhead lamps as seomone said before with no cooling. What we really need to focus on is keeping the lcd cool, so the picture quality will not degrade over time. By polarizing the light, this should iliminate much of the heat caused by brute forcing, and even better, improve picture quality. |
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| verbose mustafa |
| quote: | Originally posted by Property
No i haven't it's true i'm sorry....
BUT..i'm sure those fan noises are annoying... |
I agree, fan noises are not too nice, though it does not bother me too much becuse I crank up the volume. Metal halide is no where near as hot as halogen is. And you can always try the alan staples fan chamber setup to must the fan noise. |
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| Property |
My solution acts as giant heat sink for the WHOLE projector box...
It removes heat from the fixture as well as heat from the projector box....that should help in lcd cooling shouldn't it? |
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| verbose mustafa |
| It's the lcd screen that gets hot itself. Unless thewater it touching the lcd, i would have to say no. Don't take my word for it though. |
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| proto5 |
The LCD gets hot from absorbing the 1/2 of the light that is not the right polarity. To cool it effectively you need forced air onto the bottom of the LCD.
Or you can separate the polarizer from the LCD. Not for the faint -hearted. I'm waiting for parts to test the theory. |
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| Property |
best...
Make your projector box out of an old mini-refrigerator (that works of course)...
THen plug the refrigerator in and VOILA! instant air conditioning. |
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| Marklar |
| As far as keeping the lcd cool the low-e glass is doing a good job when i take it out the lcd starts turning black after about 30 sec when the light reaches full brightness but with the glass in place i can leave it on for hours and hours with no problems. There is no need to cool the lamp really i like to have a fan in there because i got a wooden box and if the temp gets to hot cuz of lack of circulation im sure the wood could catch fire, the fan is actuly quieter than the ballast so I really done see a noise problem. Also I belive dyna mat makes a heat insulator that you can line your box in to keep it from burning or melting. |
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| Property |
Exactly!
So UV/IR glass is sufficient for keeping the LCD cool right? |
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| Marklar |
| yep what would be nice is a clear film that you could put onto a peice of glass so it will not effet the color or brightness of the light. like This |
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| ace3000_1 |
property why dont use a 1000w halogen with a fish tank inbetween the light and the lcd that way keeping the lcd cool from the light and the enclosure no doubt, it would be quiet, u would have a nice fish tank screen saver and beter yet at the end of the movie a cooked dinner
Trev |
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| zardoz |
| quote: | Originally posted by Marklar
yep what would be nice is a clear film that you could put onto a peice of glass so it will not effet the color or brightness of the light. like This |
Funny you should mention a "film". I went to crappy tire the other day to get some tint film for my new ride, then off to the "Gila" site to see what else they offer...I have sent for every sample piece they will send me ;)
zardoz |
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| Undream |
I've re-started my projector project. Maybe 2003 will treat me better than 2002.
few highlights so far:
1) I have purchased Dukane 28A681 with a 575W bulb that generates 49,000 lumens. I merely bought it to snag the set of optics off it, but, its proving to be fun to play with a bit. It is CLEARLY not bright enough for daytime movie viewing, which is pretty sad, because this is probably the brightest overhead projector you can buy. I paid $88 off e-bay(including shipping). Worth it for a matching set of optics, which is harder than hell to find (aspheric condenser lens, double-sided fresnel, and projection lens)
2) this kickass guy in California charged me shipping costs for him to send me this awesome reflector:
its 10" around at the opening, and about 10" deep. slightly smaller than what I was looking for, but, the fact that I actually have something in my hands kicks ***.
3) Also, I re-did my projector site in PHP, with forms for me to update it that makes it easier than posting to this damn messageboard. Its great, so, maybe I will take 5 minutes to update my page more often now (instead of 10-15 to do it manually)
url is: http://www.dreamlash.com/DIY/
Also, check this out...
I set my new awesome digital camera (Olympus D-4000Z) to 1/25 shutter speed, and took two pictures - one with the LCD panel on top of the OHP, and one without, and then photoshopped one picture on top of the other. The results are astonishing. It literally cuts like 80% of the light. Check out the pic:
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| Video Freak |
| you said thats 49,000 lumens, My apollo concept is 4,000 and In the daytime It looks just as bright, thats wierd, also you said your just going to use the OHP for parts, So what Light source are you going to use, 575W is a lot to begin with, or is the bulb large ( ie large spark gap)? Im just not seeing its 49,000 lumens. mabe Im just retarded LOL mabe not though. |
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| zardoz |
Good to see you back at it! :)
zardoz...eyeballing that reflector.......hmmmmmm |
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| Undream |
the 575W Metal Halide bulb by itself generates 49,000 lumens. The overhead projector is rated at 8,000 lumens, so, in relation to yours, it should theoretically be twice as bright. How big do you display your image? That is approximately 90" diagonal. (7' across)
I'd say that the end product you see in the pic above is approximately 400-500 ANSI lumens. that pic is during the day with shades pulled. |
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| Undream |
| also, I'm going to be using a 1000W Metal Halide BT-37 bulb rated at 110,000 lumens with that reflector. If my calculations are correct, that should get me approximately 1000ANSI lumens for my end product. This will of course will all go in a custom made box. |
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| Property |
| quote: | Originally posted by Marklar
yep what would be nice is a clear film that you could put onto a peice of glass so it will not effet the color or brightness of the light. like This |
Surely they seel this film at hardware Chains, don't they?
| quote: | Originally posted by ace3000_1
property why dont use a 1000w halogen with a fish tank inbetween the light and the lcd that way keeping the lcd cool from the light and the enclosure no doubt, it would be quiet, u would have a nice fish tank screen saver and beter yet at the end of the movie a cooked dinner
Trev |
Well I'm sure Undream's bulb and soon to be bulb down there is putting out alot of heat at the reflector.
| quote: | Originally posted by Undream
also, I'm going to be using a 1000W Metal Halide BT-37 bulb rated at 110,000 lumens with that reflector. If my calculations are correct, that should get me approximately 1000ANSI lumens for my end product. This will of course will all go in a custom made box. |
Nice. what system is the reflector off of; and What time of day is it in those pictures because depending on the brightness of my screen it looks like 4:pm mid summer or 6am mid spring
And nice couch by the way. |
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| Undream |
pics at night:
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| ace3000_1 |
yeah not bad undream looks abit glary though, i sujest when u set it up with the new bulb make a anti glare filter for the night time viewing or it could be abit too bright, but other than that perfect!
Trev |
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| Property |
Just to be rigorous...
ALL PICTURE POSTERS
All of you should post a rating on brightness when you post a picture of your results.
For instance 100 being the way your posted picture looks when viewed on the diyAudio.com website, and 1 being a pure white screen.
For Example Zreon could say the REAL image when viewed in whatever room he/she is in is 100:75:1 for short. That would ruffly translate to about 25 % brighter than the way it looks on the web.
Of course we don't have a way to measure everybody's individual brightness settings on their monitors when viewing the posted pics but...the above system should give us an idea no matter what setting we each give our individual brightness. So that, along with light conditions in the room (e.g. completely dark, time of day, etc...) which people already are posting__usually__, should give us all a more or less exact idea of how bright and evenly light a persons set up is.
Ok....UnDream ,
so how about it?
100 being how dark the picture you posted looks on the DiYAudio.com website and 1 being completely white screen, where does the actual image you see in person rank? |
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| Property |
| Of course this ranking system would only be so that we can have a proper understanding of each individual's results.... |
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| Undream |
| actually, the images I just posted look *brighter* than the actual image I had going last night. I'd say is 15-20% less bright when I'm standing in front of it, than it looks on the web. |
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| Property |
That doesn't tell us anything....
How dark is the rest of the room when you look at your posted pic? |
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| slize |
http://64.4.22.250/cgi-bin/linkrd?_...dy1st%2ede%2evu
because i used the same digi cam as last time, the pictures get this dimmi green touch; in real life it looks like in cinemas...; i'll try to get another cam. and the anamorphic lense had an error, so i'll have to build another one with enough time... new pics then with a better cam...
slize |
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| proto5 |
Geez Property!
You don't want much, do Ya?
Make your own projector instead of telling all of us how to "rate" our screenshots.....Your method mokes no sense to me or most members I'm sure.....
Still waiting for the aquarium model debut..... |
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| Property |
Sorry proto5, that geesh was making fun of my scale idea being proven
inadequate so quickly than a complaint to you.
But i'd still like to know exactly what time of day your pictures were taken, and the status of your blinds/curtains at the time.
Also i think the scale is a good idea *in conjunction* with a description of exterior lighting conditions. I realize that eyeballs may vary from person to person...But if I know that, to you, the image posted on the website is 10% darker/lighter than the actual screen, then i can say "well it is *approximately* 10% darker/lighter than the way I see it on the website"....And if I adjust the brightness on my screen...i can then STILL say "well, it's approximately 10% darker/lighter than it appears to me at this brightness setting" etc...
That way, if I know the exterior lighting conditions, for example say 4pm with blinds half open...Then i can adjust the brightness on my screen to what appears to me to be 4pm-blinds half open, and then be able to say "Ok, the screen appears *approximatly* 10% darker/lighter than this"
Ok? |
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| Property |
and COME ON ALREADY UNDREAM!!!!!
Spill the BEANS!!!!
What type of fixture is that reflector off of? What is it a part of? Is it really a reflector, or the subatomic string splitter off of some mad californian scientist's time machine?
Property. |
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| slize |
| it is a normal reflector for example of a theatre "light gun" the spots you use theatre to light the stage... I had the same type of reflector in my lamp but couldn't use it because the heat is too hot... |
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| proto5 |
Property:
If anyone wants their screenshots to look decent they will use a tripod and a DARK ROOM. None of this "blinds 1/2 open" stuff. Even a $5,000 projector is gonna look like s**t in a lit room. If you expect to watch it in those conditions get a rear proj. big screen HDTV monitor. Besides.....movies are meant to be watched at night! (I never felt right going to a matinee!) |
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| chbright |
I f a parobolic reflector is used I don't have to have a rear fresnel lens, right. If that is the case i found this file to make one. I got my old trig book at home and will lookup how to find the 'center' of a parobola. I remember that this is the point we need to use to make all the rays of light that hit the reflector reflect in parallel rays. It looks easy enough to build and means that people that are going to go with a split fresnel would only have to use the one in front of the lcd.
please give me some feed back on this idea. |
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| zardoz |
You ask too much...
zardoz |
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| rmccoll |
I remeber people on this forum saying laptop screens are hard to use because you have to find a controller board and not all screens have the same controller board, but there are ways for you to use the laptop as a projector.
First you need to find a laptop thats 133Mhz and up, make sure it has pcmcia card slot and/or usb, operating system and floppy/cdrom drive. Now you have lots choses to get video on your computer. The cheapest is a device from Dazzle that uses a usb cables to get video on the screen, only 35$ dollars. You can also buy a extneral tv tuner, but they require high processing power.
Now heres my setup , I'm using a Compaq Lte 5000 75Mhz they come with a special video adapter that hooks up to the docking port in the back of the computer, you can watch full screen video on the compter. My light is a light of America flourescent light equivalent to a 150 watt light bulb got it for ten bucks when K-mart closed down produces little heat and has a long life. Now my lense is a regular magnifying 4 inches 6X magnification it sit about one foot away from the screen the picture is great really bright.
Most of you are making yours front projection, but mine is a rear projection. One reason is that you don't have worry about external light you'll have bright picture the other reason way I biuld it as a rear projector because I plan to put it in my living room and I like looking a screen on my wall. I'll post pictures wednesday. |
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| 18wheeler |
| Please post your pictures and illustrate your setup. I have given rear projection some thought but haven't even realized it on paper yet. the more pictures the better :D |
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| Property |
| Evocative, but what kind of Reflector? No reflector? |
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| zardoz |
I have an excellant 9 inch lens that is prime for rear projection..alas I have no room for this type of setup at this time :(
zardoz |
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| ace3000_1 |
property, u are coming out with all of these ideas, put them to practise, and if u are worried about screen brightness on net, forget it, the screen shots on here are just a guide not a reality, like any pic from any cam, digi or normal nothing is the same as for real, so i sujest make a projector and see what u get, if u dont like it, modify it, guys in here arent silly and they dont take **** or time wasters and they have been at this for a while, so i sugest make your bloody own projector like the rest of us in here and stop posting **** and formulas that u made up that nobody even understands, im making my projector and ill have pics of the actual unit that has taken me nearly 2.5months to build from scratch in the near future, make yours, show yours and share your ideas that didnt put u in intensive care for a month and the ones that work.
happy diy
Trev |
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| proto5 |
ACE:
ROTFL!!!!!
God knows we all hate "armchair engineers"! |
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| Property |
| 2.5 Months eh? I've been here 1 week. |
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| ace3000_1 |
property i have read most of the posts in here before i made a post, i read the post for 3months before i made my first post, i made sure i atleast knew what this was all about and what others have tried and failed, that way i wouldnt be bugging these guys with the same quetions they get over and over all of the time setting them back when they are trying to move forward into this technology, after the 3 months i went out and bought a lcd, pulled it apart and went from there, i had the lcd for 2 weeks before i made a post and the only trouble i had was with uv and ir filters, that wasnt coverd so much in the forum until now, and for the past 2.5months im actually building the thing, i didnt go with an ohp but i went my own way with the gratful help of the guys in the forum to projuce my ideas and my own projector, this is my first projector i am making and it wont be my last, the second will be the ohp way not only for various reasons but maybe i can put some of the help that these guys gave me back to them.
Trev |
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| Property |
Ace3000. Without a scale and description of lighting conditions, I can't tell what the results truly are for people's setups, so i can't make a judgement as to which are more successful than others.
Person A's posted pics may seem brighter/clearer/etc, than Person B's when I view the posted pics.
BUT in reality the COMPLETE opposite might be true. Person B's results might be brighter/clearer/etc...
A description of lighting conditions along with a scale by the poster describing ( in percentage or between 1 and 10, or whatever scale) how much darker/lighter the posted pic is compared to the actual result, would help this.
If you don't like the scale idea then i suggest you come up with another method.
Either way, a way to determine a more accurate comparison of posted results is ESSENTIAL, and we should come up NOW with an agreed upon, standard, and simple way to do it. |
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| ace3000_1 |
property an alternative to the scale u so want to make up is use your eyes lol look at the things in the background and determine roughly how bright it is, unfortunatley for this reason we all do not have the same camera's, and all cams have different light colour and sensitiviness, as i said its only a guide, go to their place and have a look , just ask they may let u if u live in their area, as i said before the majority on here that post pics are above aceptible, and the best way for u to find out is to build one of your own, its not that expencive and u will learn somthing on the way, just get an ohp retrofit it with a small burning mh bulb that puts out 20000lm's and your set for a perfect 100' image, just that! most ohp's u dont need to do anything than to just change the light to an mh setup, all of the lenses are fine, the onl;y prob could be finding a 14" lcd screen now that will fit the top of the ohp better than a 15" read a few posts dating back 2 years or so, better yet read it from the start, and u will find all of the info u could even wish for.
Trev |
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| Property |
| And an agreed upon, standard, and simple way to understand posted results is still essential. And we should come up with one. It's do-able, and should have been done a long time ago. |
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| Property |
| quote: | Originally posted by ace3000_1
property an alternative to the scale u so want to make up is use your eyes lol look at the things in the background and determine roughly how bright it is, |
That it what we have all been doing and it is not good enough. Like i said in the first post i made on this topic, depending on what brightness setting i give my screen, posted pics look like 6am in the morning with blinds open, to 4pm mid-afternoon with blinds closed, to 12 midnight with blinds half open.
That's why we need a standard method of description with every posted result pic. I don't see what the argument against this is for. |
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| ace3000_1 |
and what about the brightness of your monitor? your monitor might be brighter than mine and might have a different contrast setting too, wana callobrate them as well? why dont u just ask the person who puts a pic up how it looks in the pic compered to real life? we dont have a prob in here but u do, so it looks like you are the one who will be asking, undream even said in his posting that his pic is darker in real life than the cam so i dont see a prob there at all,proto5 has told us he has too much colour or he hasnt calibrated it yet, i just mentioned it to him that it looks abit to colourful and he came back and told us that he hasnt calibrated it yet, i think thats good enough and fair enough, im not knocking your ideas property but realy i dont think that people give a **** about some brightness formula
Trev |
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| ace3000_1 |
anyway bud im going to leave it at that, i thinks unfair for the new comers who read these postings and for the people who are in here, there is enough **** in here and im not going to add anymore so good luck diy and tell us your resaults if u ever build a projector
Trev |
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| proto5 |
Property:
Give it up. It's not gonna happen.
Just start building a projector using the info already here. All this formula and weird water cooling **** does nothing but alienate us "more experienced" DIY's in here. And quit posting so much, cause we really don't give a **** about 99% of your posts so far....and you don't want to get booted..... |
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| zardoz |
"Either way, a way to determine a more accurate comparison of posted results is ESSENTIAL, and we should come up NOW with an agreed upon, standard, and simple way to do it."
"And an agreed upon, standard, and simple way to understand posted results is still essential. And we should come up with one. It's do-able, and should have been done a long time ago."
Given ALL of the VARIABLES what you ask for is not in any way practical nor will the results have any merrit whatsoever. There are NO benchmarks that will be the same from one machine to another...nor from one "eye" to another.
I understand what it is you are trying to do..but without establishing a "baseline" that can be applied from one setup to another your results will be "skewed". Even if a baseline could be established there are still too many variables...screen gain...lamp source...signal source....on and on... You would need to say ok with a model#XXX movie screen @ X number of feet from the PJ...with bulb X...and panel X....and signal X...resollution X....even after all of this is established you are relying on the "eye of the beholder" to be the final factor. It should be noted that the builder of a DIY projector will see shortcomings you as the audience might not. Likewise a builder might say "gosh I'm happy with this thing...and it's oh so bright.." but to you and I, having invested nothing in that particular setup it might look like ****.
zardoz ....wastes no more time on this topic |
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