| declined |
I don't know if this has already been covered but i have been searching for the last couple hours and didn't find anything so here I go:
I have bought a 5.6" TFT LCD screen that works okay BUT when I remove the backlight it is SO terribly dark! I don't use a high-power-lamp yet,but it's coming soon ;) ... will a 400W metal halide bulb do the trick or are there LCD displays that aren't transparent enough to use for projection? Is this because of the polarisation I heard about?
Something completely different: Uvodee (at least I think it was him) said i could get those very thin flatcables from molex, but their website doesnt show any flat flex cables, only the connector.
How ands where can I order -the right- flat cables to remove my cd from the PCB?
Thanx a lot for any help... |
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| declined |
Sorry but I dont see the link to the LCD transparency problem?!
BTW: -very- nice projector setup! Wow such a sharp image :)
PS: where did you find those flatcable extensions? I need some of those but cant find them and also: if I would find some, how could i connect them? |
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| zardoz |
| quote: | Originally posted by declined
I don't know if this has already been covered but i have been searching for the last couple hours and didn't find anything so here I go:
I have bought a 5.6" TFT LCD screen that works okay BUT when I remove the backlight it is SO terribly dark! I don't use a high-power-lamp yet,but it's coming soon ;) ... will a 400W metal halide bulb do the trick or are there LCD displays that aren't transparent enough to use for projection? Is this because of the polarisation I heard about?
Something completely different: Uvodee (at least I think it was him) said i could get those very thin flatcables from molex, but their website doesnt show any flat flex cables, only the connector.
How ands where can I order -the right- flat cables to remove my cd from the PCB?
Thanx a lot for any help... |
I have a trash sharp screen here and have noticed the same thing about the transparancy level (or rather the lack of apparent transparancy) I am waiting for my gear to arrive so dont have much comment about it in particular. But I can say I had a 400 watt MH HID next to my dud panel (last night... doing reflector tests) and quite a bit of light appeared to make it through. Keeping in mind that the LCD had no feed to it and I did not have any reasonable "light box" constructed. I for one hope that the polarization on my new panel is done in the same manner as this junk Sharp lcd. The dead pannel had from back to front as follows.....1 plastic/metal backing for back light
2 sheet of ULTRA WHITE relctive type material
3 a plastic sheet that accepts the light from the CCFL through and along it's length, then act's as a "light pipe" from what I can tell to "backlight" the entire surface of the screen
4 a two piece assembly of polarizing sheet
5 the LCD panel itself
6 some sort of material on the screen face...I believe this is an "anti reflective" treatment to make daytime viewing on a laptop more tollerable I am hoping that this coating doesnt pose to be a problem as I dont see a good way of removing it :(
What are you running for a lamp now?
zardoz |
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| MatrixQ |
Hello,
I've been lurking here for quite some time, reading your various threads. I must say, you all have inspired me to build a DIY projector (and let's face it, a 10,000hr+ bulb is VERY attractive).
RedDevil: What kind of LCD are you using? I don't think this was posted, but i've read ohh so many threads.
Thanks,
Desmond. |
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| declined |
| quote: | | What are you running for a lamp now? |
:xeye: try not to laugh... just a standard desktop lamp, pointed at my lenses and lcd... I guess that explains the little brightness... But I am looking for prices of 400W MH bulbs so that should be like -a zillion- times brighter! :cool:
I havent started building my pj yet: its just some parts standing on my table...
I was just worried about the lcd because the other lcd i checked was much more transparent than my new 5.6" tft lcd. It was the little 2,5" screen on my camcorder.
But if the lcd turns out to be OK, then the only big problem left is finding a flatflex cable to make an extension to put my lcd further away from the electronics board... NO idea where to order those cables/connectors. Anyone an idea or link where I can order from Europe? (Belgium) |
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| daveb |
You may or may not remember me, but I was an avid participant here in the April - June timeframe. I was working hard on my own DIY system. Then I shorted out the power supply that feeds my LCD. Little whit puff of smoke, and that's all she wrote.
So I give up. I'm selling the whole thing. First and foremost, a brand new (less than 1 hour use) 400 Watt MH bulb/ballast/coil/capaciter kit.
Plus lots more stuff. Lenses, mirrors, reflector, OHP parts. Please check out my e-bay sale, where I've just listed. I know there are lots of success stories on this forum, but I'm afraid I've tried and failed.
I wish the best of luck to he or she who succeeds with this equipment.
Thanks,
dave.
Please see my sale at http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...tem=2080266568 |
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| zardoz |
Declined: If you are looking for the standard "High Bay" type HID's (like in factories and warehouses) try your local building wrecker. I got 2 ballasts and one el crapo reflector plus 2 working bulbs for $50.00 cdn. The used bulbs will do fine for me till I get all the optics and such set-up then I'll go and buy a new bulb.
Got my card...now to wait for my panel...I hate waiting.
Tested my reflector last night (big shiny bowl) my prelim tests look like I should go ahead and punch a hole in the bottom and try the lamp with the arc tube 90 degree's to the bowl's opening.
I've been advised by a trusted friend that I shouldnt need a reflector with the HID, and I think he is right. But at the cost of a $20.00 stainless steel bowl I just cant resist. The lamp is "wicked bright" all on it's own, but with the reflector it does seem to "focus" the light much better. (besides the wife allready has a bowl for mixing her bread dough...she cant use 2 at once ~s~ )
zardoz |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi All,
I've been reading both parts of the DIY projector forum for a few weeks now, and there is some interesting stuff.
I had delivery of my ASK impact24 LCD overhead panel last week, which i bought off e-bay, and the specs look good.
The downside is my OHP hasn't arrived yet, it should be here later today. (Nobo 90 OHP) Has anyone got any specs. on this overhead projector, as i cannot find any info ??
Check out this site that someone has put together, using this panel and with a spec list as well at the bottom of the page.
I'll let you know how i get on, when the OHP turns up !, I've also posted this in the good / bad panel guide as well.
Cheers
Cosmic023
ASK Impact24 LCD Panel :) |
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| declined |
Okay... I have a question that might seem totally stupid but I'm sure there is at least 1 other person that once didn't know this ;) :
What side of the lcd should face the bulb?
My guess would be the back side because the lcd backlight shines through that one... but on the other hand: my lcd has a silverish shine on the back so a lot of light might be reflected back??
Do other people also have lcd's with a shiny silverish back? What did you do? (back to bulb/ front to bulb) |
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| MatrixQ |
Declined:
The way you put in your LCD in the projector is the way it will appear on the screen (i.e. if you put the LCD in backwards, the projected image will be horizontally flipped).
This could, i guess, be overcome with some sort of lens setup if the light going through the LCD backwards was that much brighter, though this is not my department.
But let me know how it turns out, as I would be interested to know if more light flows through the LCD one way than the other.
Desmond. |
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| declined |
There is a button on my lcd which flips my image so it can be used either way...
Just wondering which side most people use... (it's not an overhead panel)
greetz
Sieg |
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| MatrixQ |
Ahh. Then I have absolutely no answers for you. :)
best way is to try it both ways . . . jury rig it up, see which looks better, that'll be the best way. ;oP
Be sure to post here which way was indeed the best way.
Desmond. |
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| zardoz |
| quote: | Originally posted by declined
Okay... I have a question that might seem totally stupid but I'm sure there is at least 1 other person that once didn't know this ;) :
What side of the lcd should face the bulb?
My guess would be the back side because the lcd backlight shines through that one... but on the other hand: my lcd has a silverish shine on the back so a lot of light might be reflected back??
Do other people also have lcd's with a shiny silverish back? What did you do? (back to bulb/ front to bulb) |
Sounds like you have a panel that doesnt have the same build sequence as mine. Can you give us a breakdown on it construction? See my earlier post on how my panel is put together. My panel's are "Transmissive" there is a designation for panels "Reflective" these have a shiny coating on the back to take the place of the "light pipe" concept that I refered to. If it is reflective...is there any way to remove the coating? (I'd be extra carefull here) I've never had one like this in front of me so cant offer advice on the feasabillity of removing a spray on coating (or a stick on sheet) Hmmm maybe using one of those chemicals on the screen that the laptop manufactures tell us "do not use ****** based cleaning products, as they will damadge the sensitive LCD coating" (this is not advice... just conjecture ;)
zardoz |
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| JO3L |
| any of you gosu diy people out there can you please go to the main video forum and check out my plan.....i need some input before i drop the money for it |
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| MatrixQ |
Hello all,
I have an opportunity to purchase this overhead projection pannel for $139 USD shipped to my door. I was hoping someone here could tell me if that is a good deal. Being new to this arena, I have absolutely no idea (I'm so out of my league).
The specs of the panel are as follows:
Compatibility MCGA, CGA, EGA, VGA, Mac
Colours 1.7 million
Resolution 640 x 480
Display area 170.9 mm (H) x 129.6 mm (V)
System PAL/SECAM/NTSC
Power requirements 32 W
Dimensions 330 mm (W) x 270 mm (D) x 56 mm (H)
Weight 2.4 kg
Thanks to anyone who can help.
Regards,
Desmond. |
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| gianni |
Haven't used this particular panel... but check out this link and search for the word sharp... and they review it quite well.
http://www.infotoday.com/online/OL1...5/connolly.html
I have a sharp panel that I find is well designed... but there's something about the nviews that I like more... If only someone had a cheap nview z350 for me... hehe... not that I don't like my z210... but 1280 would be nice...
good luck |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi All,
I received my Nobo OHP last week, but i did buy it as faulty hoping for a quick fix !
But the power supply transformer has burnt out, and since the unit is so old, they don't have a replacement !!
So i'll use the optics out of this OHP to build a diy projector :)
Does anyone know of any contacts, who could re-wind and refurbish the transformer in the UK ??
Otherwise I'll have to look for another OHP now, just to keep this project moving ??
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| HanClinto |
Hi all! This site caught my eye at around 1:30 PM this previous Saturday afternoon, and it is now approximately 17 hours later at 5:30 AM on the adjacent Sunday morning. :) You guys write some great stuff, and have amazing ideas.
Anyway, enough with the kudos.
I sincerely apologize if this link has been posted before, but I thought it cool enough that I had to try and see if anyone else had done this before. The old LEDs that Vince was using were roughly $1.50 each at 9000 mcd with 20 deg of dispersal (right vocab? I'm less than 20 hrs into this so please bear with).
Someone earlier mentioned using LED car headlights... I wasn't able to find *headlights*, but tail/turnlights were available on one website in particular:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...cgi?product=CAR
It has 12-LED arrays that are rated at 78,720 mcd with only a 12 degree viewing angle unit -- the smaller the angle the better it is for our projection purposes.
See their spec sheets here
A great part is, is that it uses a standard automobile 1156 or 1157 taillight receptacle -- available in any junkyard for next to nothing. Wouldn't be hard to buy an array of 12 or 20 of the receptacles.
The best part is the price! 12 LED array for only $6.99 US... that's about $0.59 per LED, and they're already arranged to accept 12 volt DC input.
By my calculations, to get 1,000,000 mcd (would that be 1,000 candle power?), it would take 12.5 of these... so an array of 18 or 20 should do the trick nicely. Granted, 20 of them would still cost around $150 US shipped, but does anyone think that this has feasability? If I only spent $50 on my LCD, I think I might be able to justify spending over $100 in LED's... if it was going to work.
What do you all think?
--Clint |
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| remp |
HanClinto
Its worth a shot. The leds seem cheap enough so if you just bought one assembly and tried it out should be good or no good.
What LCD are you thinking of for $50 ? |
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| HanClinto |
I was very blessed to find a 5" Sharp LQ6NC01 240x720 for around $45 on E-Bay (not including shipping).
If I didn't get that, I would probably go with the small 2" spy-monitor TFT from Hong Kong -- those look really cool. :) My goal is silent, cool, small, and portable. :) I want to try and stay away from fresnels if at all possible.
Just out of curiosity, how many LED bulbs do you think I would need? I have a hard time converting from watts to mcd to lumens and all else. :)
Thanks!
--Clint |
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| Axeman |
zardoz- You mentioned that you found some HID lights/ballasts at a local building wrecker... I am also in Nova Scotia. Mind giving up exactly where you came across these lights?? :D Thanks.
Axeman |
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| zardoz |
| quote: | Originally posted by Axeman
zardoz- You mentioned that you found some HID lights/ballasts at a local building wrecker... I am also in Nova Scotia. Mind giving up exactly where you came across these lights?? :D Thanks.
Axeman |
Hi Ax..try happy harry's in Burnside, he's a bit expensive tho. There is another guy very near him also but I dont know his name. I have a few transformers and such, missing mogul bases but as far as I know they work. If you are interested let me know, I got my "reflector" from Saan's (big SST bowls...tested one last night with good result) I'm debateing over 2 choices till I get my panel this week. What do you have for gear? Maybe we can help each other out and get something accomplished. I have a few optics/electrics but am actively seeking more, and may part with some of the stuff I do have.
zardoz |
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| HanClinto |
So anyway, I won the auction for the 5.7 inch LCD :) $45 for a 240x740 Sharp is good for my first experimental LCD.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...1944678193&rd=1
However, considering that I want to use LED's as my light source, I probably can't use fresnels because of the light loss. Therefore, I need to keep with normal optics. However, this is a problem. It wouldn't be so bad if it was a normal 5" LCD as advertised, but it's 5.7 inch. I knew that before bidding, but I didn't realize or something that I needed to have 6 inch diameter high-power double-concave lenses. I'm thinking my best bet is likely to find 6 inch magnifying glasses, although they are hardly projection optics quality, they may have to do. However, I haven't been able to find any of them anywhere. Does anyone else have experience with using completely non-fresnel optics, and where do you find big ones? I'd like to spend <$50 for all my optics, although I'm not sure that's possible.
Thanks alot! Keep up the great work guys!
--Clint |
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| zardoz |
| quote: | Originally posted by HanClinto
So anyway, I won the auction for the 5.7 inch LCD :) $45 for a 240x740 Sharp is good for my first experimental LCD.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...1944678193&rd=1
However, considering that I want to use LED's as my light source, I probably can't use fresnels because of the light loss. Therefore, I need to keep with normal optics. However, this is a problem. It wouldn't be so bad if it was a normal 5" LCD as advertised, but it's 5.7 inch. I knew that before bidding, but I didn't realize or something that I needed to have 6 inch diameter high-power double-concave lenses. I'm thinking my best bet is likely to find 6 inch magnifying glasses, although they are hardly projection optics quality, they may have to do. However, I haven't been able to find any of them anywhere. Does anyone else have experience with using completely non-fresnel optics, and where do you find big ones? I'd like to spend <$50 for all my optics, although I'm not sure that's possible.
Try surplus shed they have some big (7 inch plus ) PCX lens's
zardoz
Thanks alot! Keep up the great work guys!
--Clint |
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| HanClinto |
Thanks Zardoz! They've got some great-looking 7.5" diameter 20" FL magnifying lenses that look like they'll do the trick.
I stayed up all night (literally) looking at this stuff and trying to figure it out. I know I can calculate the lens focal points and such once I get the right layout that I need. I drew a quick picture to see if this is right, but I don't think it is. I think this would give me a point on the screen. But if it's larger, wouldn't it just be an image out of focus? I know you need to have the focal point on the spot that you're projecting to. I'm sorry, I'm just very confused at the moment.
Geocities hates image re-referencing. Here's the picture.wronglayout.JPG
Thanks for your help!
--Clint |
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| zardoz |
I'm using a 12 inch laptop panel that hasnt arrived yet. I myself still dont have a really good handle on the optics I'm going to need. I do have a number of elements that I took from CRT lens packs, but not sure if I have anything that I can use. I saw the big PCX from surplus shed and am fairly sure I'll be getting a couple of them. At their prices I might get some other stuff just to have around to experiment with.
zardoz |
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| HanClinto |
Here's an update on calculations that I've made for the feasability of using the lights available on http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm
Going off the spec-sheet for the bulbs... the axial luminous intensity (lv) unit is in mcd (I'm assuming millicandles). A candle is the same thing as a lumen (according to my Pocket Ref), and each bulb is 78720 mcd, or 78.720 lumens.
78.72 lumens = .11808 Watts
12 bulbs costs $84 ($89 shipped)... which is roughly my limit on lighting at this point.
12*.11808 = 9.918 watts
$84 for a perfectly cool and silent 10 watt bulb... that sounds like nothing compared to these 400 watt systems that people are running. These bulbs have a viewing angle of 12 degrees though... I imagine that means that most of the light is within a 12 degree cone. Would the direction of the light help that much? I can't imagine directed light helping out more than doubling the effective brightness, so that would still mean it's like a 20 watt bulb. That's nothing. That's a very dim reading light for my clip-on. *sigh*. Am I doing my math right? It looks like I might be using a LOA worklight afterall. |
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| HanClinto |
What is everyone's experience with fresnel lenses versus using a large cvx lens. I can buy a fresnel for my 5.6" screen for less than $10, or I can buy a 7" cvx lense for $30. I can't imagine that fresnels have great optical charictaristics, and it seems that the light would refract much better with a real cvx lense... but I really don't know if the difference is noticable. Thoughts from anyone?
--Clint |
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| Rolm |
mcd is <a href="http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/candela.html">millicandela</a>, not straight candlepower. <a href="http://www.schorsch.com/kbase/glossary/luminous_intensity.html"> A candela is 1 lumen per steradian.</a>
Careful of the difference btw <i>spherical</i> candela and <i>beam</i> candela. Most contemporary lights are measured in spherical cd, whereas LEDs are measured in beam cd.
Calculation for lumens from beam cd is :
<a href="http://dcwi.com/~nybarra/LED.html">( 1 - cos(beam_width/2)) * 2pi * cd </a>
so, for 78,720 mcd ...
( 1 - cos(6) ) * 2pi * 78.72 = 2.71 lumens
This sounds weak because it's calculated on the basis of the width of the beam. This measurement may be inaccurate, tho, because the "beam_width" is supposed to be the width of the beam at half-power. IOW, it's the radius at which the intensity of the beam is half of it's maximum.
Also, with a 12deg beam, your distance to the panel would have to be:
tan( beam_width/2 ) = ( panel_diagonal/2 )/ depth
so for an 8.4" diagonal panel, you would have to place the 12deg light source almost 40 inches away (39.96, TBE).
As always, your mileage may vary, but that's the math as far as I know. |
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| HanClinto |
Sweet! Thanks for the calculation info. :)
| quote: | | so for an 8.4" diagonal panel, you would have to place the 12deg light source almost 40 inches away (39.96, TBE). |
If you wanted to stay closer to the screen... what about using something like this?
[img]http://www.3dlens.com/media/fresnel_408(large).jpg[/img]
Those are available from www.3dlens.com, and for a fairly cheap price too ($2.06 for 1-4 units). With an array of those, you could do something which was proposed a month or so ago in a different forum, and have each lamp illuminate a smaller section of the LCD. Hopefully crossover would eliminate any dark spots.
What's your opinion on that, Rolm?
Thanks alot! Keep up the great work everybody!
--Clint |
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| Rolm |
<img src="http://www.3dlens.com/media/fresnel_408(large).jpg">
Hmm, interesting. You would still have to use multiple light sources per image lens. If you were looking to cover your LCD with ((I'm guessing on the dimensions here) a 4x3 grid from this multi-lens, and you were shooting to put 4000 lumens on the LCD, then you would need 4000/(4x3) lumens per image lens, or 333.33 lumens each. And then there's overlap as each of the spherical beam's edges touch the image lenses adjoining the one it's aiming at, which means that each beam needs to be run through an apeture first; and then there's the problem of the different beam angles as a result of using multiple LEDs...
Interesting, but I think it would be alot of engineering to get it to work right. And I still think the LEDs are underpowered.
That being said, I have VERY little first-hand experience with hi-output LEDs, so I could be totally wrong on the lumen characteristics (that is, perhaps there is some magical way that LEDs get more bang for the buck).
It would be VERY cool if someone could make it work, though. The coolness factor of these LEDs over ones previously discussed on this BB is that they are already linked up, and they come with a nice 1157 socket attached. Most of the complexity of the previous idea was having to wire all the LEDs up. |
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| HanClinto |
For anyone interested I moved my rantings about super-bright white LED's over to a new thread. I actually just found some cool stuff in this area, with some neat calculations in it.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...=&threadid=8750
Keep running the imagination station. :)
--Clint |
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| verbose mustafa |
Have you made a good projector using leds? I belive it can be done. When i simply placed my lce screen on the projeciton lens (delta IV), i projected a 5-6 foot imgae using only the lcds built in backlight. Using the same principals as how backlights for lcds are made, i plan to to make a "super powerful backlight." This way I will only have my lcd attached to my projector lens, and no huge box full of lights and fans. I know i sound like a neophite, but i have done many tests and what not with an lcd and delta Iv.
thanks
verbose |
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| verbose mustafa |
| quote: | Originally posted by HanClinto
I was very blessed to find a 5" Sharp LQ6NC01 240x720 for around $45 on E-Bay (not including shipping).
If I didn't get that, I would probably go with the small 2" spy-monitor TFT from Hong Kong -- those look really cool. :) My goal is silent, cool, small, and portable. :) I want to try and stay away from fresnels if at all possible.
Just out of curiosity, how many LED bulbs do you think I would need? I have a hard time converting from watts to mcd to lumens and all else. :)
Thanks!
--Clint |
read my thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...39&goto=newpost
I am also going for the "small DIY pj." I have done it, but i need to modify the backlight somehow... LEDs are my first choice. |
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| Dnt32 |
I am new to this forum and I have built a TV projector which is down now since it was temporary. I was going to build a more permanent one, but since I fell into this forum by mistake I have changed my mind and I will build a LCD projector instead.
First off Im just a bumkin from Alabama hehe but I have smarts. And Im excited now about this LCD projector. As of now I wont be building this Cause IM going to wait until I upgrade my video camera. And use the one I have now for some parts.
Ok now that I have introduced myself I have a ? concerning the letter boxing you guys are doing to your LCD's how and why is white light coming from your projector isnt it letter boxed from your source such as the dvd.
When I dismantle my camera it has features that I may or may not be able to use like backlight and exposure and the connection devices.....but how do I know if the LCD is going to be good enough. I have the spec sheet that came with the user's manual. But I cant get **** froim them.
Doug |
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| Dnt32 |
Wish this whole thin was a password protected chatroom
the wait is awful
lol |
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| HanClinto |
So let me get this straight... you have a video camera with an LCD on it so that you can see what you're taping, and you want to use that LCD panel for your projector?
Just making sure I've got what you're saying. :)
Yeah, I feel the same way about waiting for answers. :)
--Clint |
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| Dnt32 |
Well I was informed in another thread that it wouldnt be feasible to use any of the parts from the camera and just to sell it.
And if this doesnt fit this thread Sorry Im new to this forum.
And besides its all kind of jumbled to me. Wish it was catagorized then maybe subcatagorized.
Or may be a definition of the titles of the threads. Guess I ll come here when i get started on my project but everyone is so far ahead. |
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| zardoz |
Wellcome! You are'nt too far behind us...my project has suffered numerous delays due to the deploreable courier services, still waiting for my LCD to arrive. I'd make sure you know the camera's res on that panel, I'm guessing it might be low. If it is? I'd have to agree... sell it and use the bucks to get some more appropriate gear.
I do agree, the threads are a bit jumbled, but this sort of "forces" people to read as many as they can stomach in order to keep from asking questions that might be ignored. You've got the bug now ;) so learn all you can before you rip down your cam and maybe waste it.
zardoz |
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| Axeman |
| quote: | | What do you have for gear? Maybe we can help each other out and get something accomplished. I have a few optics/electrics but am actively seeking more, and may part with some of the stuff I do have. |
Thanks for the info. I'll check out happy harry's as soon as I can. I think AW demolition(also in burnside) might have something as well.
Right now my gear consists of a telex 640x480 LCD projection panel, and a 3000 lumen overhead. I will try and attach a picture of the projected image when i get home. It's just barely bright enough, which is why I'm looking into lights. The plan is to use a page magnifier fresnel behind the LCD, and the projection lens from the OHP. I would like a way to increase contrast somehow, but more brightness would satisfy me for now. If you've got any working bulbs with ballasts you want to sell, please let me know. Are you in the halifax area?
Axeman |
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| zardoz |
I do have a couple of ballasts I think, I'll take a look for you. As I said though I dont have any spare mogul bases, but those are prety cheap at the electrical supply stores. AW thats the other guy I was thinking about, he didnt have much selection left after I got through with him. But that was quite a while ago. There is also another place near Lower Sackville (name unknown) he had a couple left after I got to him. I live up near Windsor. Good source of supply of what I think is a useable reflector is Saan's I got a 13 3/4 inch by 6 inch deep bowl (very shiny SST) for 7 bucks. And a 12 by 6 for 5 bucks. I'm in debate as to whether or not to use "both" (see the MH with enclosed luminaries thread) look at the "stage light reflector". I still have no idea how this design will work with a HID light (heat issues, also will it take some of it's light energy being sent back to the arc tube) I'll know more about that today, gonna go visit my lighting friend in the park. I use the 13.75 for the reflctor and the 12 for the other half of the "clamshell". Two pairs of sunglasses on and I can see it well enough to work on positioning, without sunglasses? Blindness! If you wish send me an email and we can go into some more detail, maybe hook up and go cruising for parts in one vehicle.
keep in touch
zardoz |
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| Rolm |
| A welding helmet works well for positioning, too ;) |
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| verbose mustafa |
| halogen burns sooo hot? Whats the point? |
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| Plewis |
| I'm new to this forum but not new to forums (joining on christmas, what a loser):xeye: . Well, all this does seem a bit jumbled to me as well. I've been visiting sites and browsing this board a bit for almost a week. I was surfing and I just came across this by accident. It seems pretty feasible and not too hard to do. This question may be redundant but I'm thinking of using an OHP. All I can think I'd have to do is maybe adjust the light a bit and possibly get a new one... and just plop the lcd panel on top. Am I missing something or is this basically what you do? I have a friend who's going to undertake this project with me. We've both been researching. It just doesn't seem too hard. It seems the hardest part will be finding a good LCD panel. Thanks. |
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| arjandijk |
| Is see all kinds of webshops in the US where ik can get fresnel lenses, but where or how can I get them in the Netherlands |
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| Doktor_Ssyko |
Lurk Mode = OFF
Please read with LIGHT-HEARTED Mode = ON
I have been reading since September both at work and home.
I have read all threads over these last months and went to all of the suggested links (that were not broken nor expired) where I found more reading.
I want to congratulate all of the efforts and triumphs as well as the failures achieved by the collective known as DIY-LCDVIDEOTS (not meant to be derogatory). I have enjoyed your insights, even failure is knowledge.
I'll try to condense some of my discoveries gathered by the now published practitioners with some of my observatory comments peppered throughout.
Quick and dirty Method:
Buy an OHP and a display intended for use with an overhead.
Issues that arise are:
- Light bleeding into the room thus adding to ambient light and causing picture wash-out.
Fix: homemade masks and shields.
Caution: be careful not to decrease airflow around the OHP and Display Panel.
- Insufficient light due to either too much ambient light (daytime viewing) or pushing the projector to very large screen sizes.
Fix: some have swapped out the OEM bulbs and even sockets for much brighter units.
Caution: watch the temperature!!
- resolution of the display panels is lacking.
Fix: some are using line doublers either buying the expensive stand-alone hardware or setting up a PC based version. Another fix is experimenting with PC LCD displays, by trying to remove the case and backlighting as well as relocating the electronics on the PCBs by cable manipulation or lengthing.
Caution: It is "extremely" easy to break one of these fragile ribbon cables and you won't exactly find a replacement at your friendly neighborhood RadioShack.
Lighting:
LEDs, Spotlights, Floodlamps, 6k Lumen Flourescents and Metal Halide even headlights from cars have all been tried with mixed successes.
Observation: It would be easy to buy a true projector lamp, most have built-in reflectors and some even have IR glass to reduce transmitted heat to the lenses and LCD assemblys. Now in keeping with the DIY spirit we want to cut costs, improve the usual bulb life and perhaps even crank it up a notch or two when it comes to actual lumens output.
LED's are expected to be the absolute coolest to operate yet have thus far proven to be expensive and on the verge of developing a sufficient light output to be practical for those of us attempting to do the impractical.
FloureX (Flourescent Light) distributed by LOA (Lights Of America) these are about the size of a loaf of bread, they are intended to be used as outdoor floodlights and even have a daylight sensor built-in. They use 65 watts and have an output of 8,225 lumens
and a Kelvin rating of 6500 (similar to Metal-Halide). They are very cool at about 100 degrees farenheit. They sell for about $30.00USD and are found in Home Improvement stores. Note:no additional ballast required.
At issue with these is the fact that the light produced is very diffuse. Most projectors use point-source lights which is then converted with lenses to create a "field of parallel light" to present to the LCD.
Metal-Halide lamps are currently the DIY choice to use Brute-Force and get the maximum available (note: I said available not useable) light to the LCD. These are being used in 150 watt and even up to 500 watts or beyond type arrangements. They do require a ballast and an immense amount of cooling help. Some are using fans, cold mirrors and even low-E glass to isolate the heat from the other components.
One suggestion here guys: Don't fight natural laws, heat rises. Don't use fans to push the air down from the top! Go with the flow and if you are using fans push the cool air in from the bottom, it will also push some of the fan noise into the box, thus muffleing some of the noise generated by the fan. I want to be able to hear the actors whispering. The life of these bulbs is something like 10 to 20 thousand hours.
Reflector: Next you need some way to gather the light generated by one of these sources and presenting an even flow of this light to the surface of the LCD panel. This is usually accomplished with some sort of lense.
My insight: If your LCD had a backlight it probably had some sort of polarizing or diffuser coating/film, this may explain Moire patterns when a Fresnel is placed next to it. You can re-create this effect by sliding two fresnels lenses together. So if the backlight was on the side of the LCD I would suggest the light optics were designed to spread the light across the back of the LCD then twist 90 degrees to move through the screen towords the viewer.
The Flourex is already diffuse but due to the folding of the tubes there is a lot of wasted light. Thus most of the reflector experiments are concieved.
Once you have chosen a bright but not too hot or expensive light source, with a good reflector, you need a diffuser/lense to gather and create a wash of parallel light to present to the surface of the LCD, keeping in mind you want as much efficiency as possible.
Once this light has gone through the LCD you can imagine the LCD as your "Phantom" light source and the next operation is to get this "light image" to project. This is where you may need to reduce the resultant picture to fit your projection lense.
If we can pull all of this together, a small, cool running, quiet and inexpensive projector is within our grasp.
Don't give up, I certainly won't. Unless I get a couple of thousand bucks to buy a projector and worry about the short yet expensive bulb life. |
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| uvodee |
| quote: | Originally posted by arjandijk
Is see all kinds of webshops in the US where ik can get fresnel lenses, but where or how can I get them in the Netherlands |
O V E R T O O M !!!!!
j-p |
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| Plewis |
| nice post Doktor_Ssyko. You educated me. I'm getting there guys. I'm about ready to start my own projector despite everyone ignoring my posts:D. So the LCD panel goes ON TOP of the projector. I get it jk. You guys will all be jealous of my projector. I got an extra $120 for christmas that I'm putting towards the projector so I'm jumping for a really nice LCD panel. You only live once, eh? |
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| uvodee |
Let me know where you buy your NEW ohp ok,
am always interested to check it out!
J-P |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi All,
I've finally got hold of another OHP an Grafoskop-OH Anglia, never heard of the make but it's ok.
Picture quality is fine, but it really needs a larger bulb.........the bulb that is fitted at the moment is a A1/223 24v 250w quartz halogeon bulb.....is there a 400w bulb out there to fit my ohp ??
Screen sizes have been anything from 12' x 10' super sharp (Bigger than my wall !! LOL) to 7' x 6' fits wall perfect !!
If anyone out there knows of a uk supplier for the above bulbs, put in a reply or e-mail me.
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi All,
"Happy new year to ya all !!"
I've did my first projector run on Tuesday, everything went fine i just need more wall space !! ;-)) LOL (Screen size 75")
Here is a picture........
Also the bulbs are used in most disco lighting equipment in the uk, would like to find a 400w bulb, but i haven't found any suppliers yet ??
Cheers 4 now
Cosmic023 |
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| verbose mustafa |
| very nice stripes! |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi Verbose,
Yeah i know it's only test bars but then, i was in the process of setting everything up.
Soon as i get round to it, maybe@ the weekend, i'll post some dvd pics.........
Also the wall, the blemishes / marks had just been painted......so that's why there are bright blobs in the picture.
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| verbose mustafa |
| cool. What kind of panel are you using? |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi Verbose,
I'm using a Ask Impact 24 LCD Panel........
If you need more info go to this link.....
Projector Link
This is where i first had the idea of using a lcd panel / OHP, i was well impressed. Not as good as a proper video projector, but then this unit is well cheap to run, instead of paying big money for bulb costs. For my OHP they are about £5 per bulb !!
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| verbose mustafa |
| Nice. I got a real deal on an nview viewframe tft... 26 bucks on ebay... It'll be much better than my 5". It's 640 X 480 so it will work great with the tv-3000. I'llbe sure to post some pics, because i belive it is a higher model than the spectra C. |
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| sk8er1020 |
I have a quick question for all of you out there. I was wondering what is the best setup for a beginner such as myself. Im sure your tired of this question, but ive searched all over the internet (including ebay) for a quality projection panel to no avail. I would like composite input and perhaps s-video, although not required. Im only 17, so my budgets relatively small, around $300 for the whole setup. Is there anyone out there that has a good projection panel for sale? I'm kinda desperate, though not pitifully so. Ive read about every thread on here and although there is some great info, including good panels, but I can't find any for sale. Thanks for your time.
Lucas |
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| HanClinto |
My advice is to keep looking for a projection panel.
I found one that accepts computer input, 640x480 resolution, and full 32-bit color for $63 shipped on E-bay that I won. (this was a few weeks ago)
As far as simplicity, this is the only method that's tried-and-true. All the others are hit-and-miss as far as we can tell.
Keep looking for projection panels on E-bay, or try a local office surplus shop -- Tuscon probably has a couple of those. School auctions, college technology sales... the good news is that projection panels are old-tech and everyone's getting rid of them. Keep thinking of new ways to find them... my friend got one (REALLY nice NView) from his college for $55 at a tech sale. E-bay's not the only option.
--Clint |
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| zardoz |
Good advice! "Keep thinking of new ways to find them..."
Thats the spirit of DIY!
zardoz |
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| sk8er1020 |
| Thanks for the advice. I guess i just gotta keep looking for a panel. Have any of you done anything with lcd moniters? Im considering that as a possibility when I get more money. |
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| HanClinto |
I haven't yet personally, as my budget doesn't allow me to do it.
Currently one of the best setups on the board is:
$50-100 for a good, bright, overhead projector.
$200 for a 14" (maybe 15" if your projector will fit it, most don't) LCD monitor
Remove the backlight and the driver boards out of the way, and mount the monitor on the overhead projector. Very nice way to get 1024x768 resolution for about $300.
Look at other threads in the forum for examples and more information on doing this... there really is just experimentation at this point. I think 4 or 5 people have attempted the LCD monitor method, and 2 or 3 of them have succeeded -- the other two fried their LCD monitors (ouch).
640x480 is plenty for me, and it lets me stay around the $100 budget ($50 OHP and $60 projection panel).
Hope this helps! Check out the other threads in the forum, they really are great.
--Clint |
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| zardoz |
I'm using a laptop screen for my PJ. I'm happy with it :)
zardoz
| quote: | Originally posted by sk8er1020
Thanks for the advice. I guess i just gotta keep looking for a panel. Have any of you done anything with lcd moniters? Im considering that as a possibility when I get more money. |
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| sk8er1020 |
| did you run into trouble with the ribbon cable? I read that many people have problems with them being too short and breaking off. Did you find a good way to extend them? That is what I would like to do, I was just concerned that I would fry the lcd and be out a couple hundred bucks. Whats the resolution your using? any screendoor effect? |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi All,
I've been have quite a few problems with my OHP. First the bulb blew, so i replaced the bulb and the OHP refused to work ??
After a lot of searching, testing & head scratching, it turns out the microswitches were causing the problem !! The picture looks well clear & sharp now, which is nice !!
So now the OHP is working again, and after aligning the optics again, i now have an image of the element on screen ??
Does anybody know how i can eliminate this problem ?? I can't remember having this problem before ?? And the bulb is the same type as the one that came out !! (A1/223 24v 250w Quartz Halgoen Bulb)
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi All,
Is there a professional way to calibrate the LCD panel, or do you just tweak it till you happy ??
Are there any professional packages or programs suitable for setting up LCD panels & video projectors ??
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| zardoz |
I'm using a laptop panel...without the laptop. I use a controller card in my PC, the panel has no ribon cables in the way, all I had to do was remove the backlight gear. I manage 800x600 no screen door on a 10 foot diagonal image.
zardoz
| quote: | Originally posted by sk8er1020
did you run into trouble with the ribbon cable? I read that many people have problems with them being too short and breaking off. Did you find a good way to extend them? That is what I would like to do, I was just concerned that I would fry the lcd and be out a couple hundred bucks. Whats the resolution your using? any screendoor effect? |
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| icculus |
zardoz
i'm curious to know your setup. i'd like to get into the laptop panel approach. sorry if i missed your explaination in a previous post; I tried to look for one to no avail. the BB seems to have changed a bit since my last visit. i've outgrown vga and low contrast but haven't decided where to make my next A/V investment. |
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| zardoz |
Sorry for the delay. been prety busy. I am using a sharp 12.1 inch screen, best res is 800x600. The LCD is not what I wanted originally but will do just fine till I find better(for cheap). The controller is from Spectrah in Taiwan, they only sell to OEM's. Since I am an OEM I now have a business link with them(see my thread "EVDisplays and possibillities") I'll be happy to give you whatever help I can offer.
zardoz
| quote: | Originally posted by icculus
zardoz
i'm curious to know your setup. i'd like to get into the laptop panel approach. sorry if i missed your explaination in a previous post; I tried to look for one to no avail. the BB seems to have changed a bit since my last visit. i've outgrown vga and low contrast but haven't decided where to make my next A/V investment. |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi Zardoz,
I'm interested in getting another LCD panel to fit my OHP, at a later date i would love to rehouse all the components in the OHP & Panel into a custom built box.
The reason for this is that an OHP wastes so much light, and you could with a better design make use of all the light available !!
One thing i was interested in was updating the panel i have now, with a SVGA laptop panel, and i like the idea of your laptop panel & converter.
How much is it to get a 10" - 12" Laptop LCD panel & a converter. Can it do VGA, SVGA, S-Video & Comp. Video ??
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| biteon |
dose anyone know where i can find a "glass frenal lens" on the web etc. that has a fine grain. also mirrors that reflect on one side and let light pass through on the other side.
if youve heared or seen one can you please post saying so, im starting to think they dont even exsist.
thanks
:D :D :D :D |
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| Doktor_Ssyko |
The problem you will discover with 2-way mirrors is that they require differing light levels on the respective sides to work.
Picture this. . . The police are interrogating the suspect while the witness is looking at them from behind the 2-way mirror.
The interrogation room has normal lighting, the observation room has a much lower light level (much dimmer) so they can not be seen from the interrogation side.
The 2-way mirror is not completely reflective like a normal mirror, it is only partially reflective.
Perhaps for our purposes a mirror with a slot that is non reflective allows light to pass through the slot but any stray light is reflected. |
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| 18wheeler |
| quote: | Originally posted by zardoz
Sorry for the delay. been prety busy. I am using a sharp 12.1 inch screen, best res is 800x600. The LCD is not what I wanted originally but will do just fine till I find better(for cheap). The controller is from Spectrah in Taiwan, they only sell to OEM's. Since I am an OEM I now have a business link with them(see my thread "EVDisplays and possibillities") I'll be happy to give you whatever help I can offer.
zardoz
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zardoz,
I am interested in the controller you have too. could you give me some information about this board. either here or send me an email to xyliu (AT) earthlink (DOT) net. thank you very much! |
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| zardoz |
I'm using a Spectrah card, but they dont sell private..you need to find a retailer. It's got 8 "pre loaded" BIOS's and can run a variety of panels.
zardoz |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi Zardoz,
Why would we need to find a retailer, as you have the ability to buy these cards direct from the manufacture ??
How much is the controller ?? And where could you buy a laptop panel ?? I know e-bay has a few now & again in the UK.
Could the whole package be bought for less than GBP £200 ??
Otherwise i'd be better going for a LCD monitor, but i did like the idea of the Laptop LCD / Controller setup, as you could get LCD panels small enough to fit an OHP, instead of trying to get an 14" LCD monitor to fit !!
Cheers
Cosmic023 |
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| zardoz |
The card I use is worth 120.00 US dollars plus shipping and import duties. The LCD I use is from Ebay, it's a 12 inch sharp panel. I paid 100.00 dollars CDN shipping included.
zardoz |
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| eebasist |
| are you able to purchase more of these? What are the specs on the controler...You might be able to start a group buy on these and get a cost reduction, i'm sure a lot of us would want to get a hold of one |
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| zardoz |
There are many things that need to be considered. For starters there are several controllers available. I chose to build a dedicated HTPC for DVD's and TV viewing, not for hardcore gaming (only 8 megs video memory). I am using my second choice panel and am quite happy with it 800x600 a tad slow in the refresh but fine for now (it's a TTL panel...I want an LVDS panel) I chose the controller I did as I have other uses for a PC based LCD controller card. My card is the LDS270M...just about anything else past this gets more expensive (not by too much) and also more complicated ie: differant BIOS chips required to run various panels.
zardoz |
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| cosmic023 |
Hi Zardoz,
Cheers for the info.................
All i use my LCD Panel / OHP system is for watching dvd films / tv, and very little gaming. Maybe connect a PS1 / PS2 to it every now & again.
So resolution ideally should be SVGA 1024x768, but i could live with VGA 800x600.
I know very little about laptop panels, what would i be looking for in a laptop panel. And even if i find one suitable, how would i know if it's compatible with the controller ??
Also getting a better quality picture, more contrast adjustment, more colour depth, is what i need ideally !!
So whatever is cheaper using laptop panels / controller, or dissassembling an LCD panel monitor. After reading so much on this forum, about how fragile these things are, i wouldn't like to spend all this money, and for the panel to fail soon after taking it apart ??
Cheers 4 now
Cosmic023 |
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| Iceshack |
:devily: Well I have now been reading for a few days now all the posts from this and the one that started it all here. I am not exactly sure if I am doing this correctly but here it goes.
First of all I would like to say WOW you people have done a great job here.I am in the process of trying to get all my info straight about the LCD's and which way to go.OHP or build my own from scratch.
I think I am leaning towards building my own from the box on up.
Just wondering if there is anyone here from the Ottawa area here.There is a place in Ottawa called Princess auto parts.
They have every kind of fan going there and also aLCD screen made by Sharp.All it says is it is from a laptop device over all dim is 9.5x3/8x7 inches for $9.99. If you got a chance to go and look at it it might be nothing but one never knows.I have bought projection lenses and so on from there.They sell all knids of surplus stuff there to do with electrical parts.Sorry for so much info for it being my first and all but I thought this info could be of some use to anyone that is interested.
www.princessauto.com They ship to anywhere in Canada and I think also States as well.:scratch: |
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| zardoz |
The Sharp screen from Princess Auto is junk....trust me...I have 2 of them :eek:
zardoz |
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| Iceshack |
Well thanks for the info I won't waist my time there.
If you don't mind my asking what is wrong with it,Doesn't work or just pic is not good.I am just asking because I was thinking of other things it might be good for besides this,Again thanks for that.;) |
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| Iceshack |
| :nod: I see you are down east.My mothers family is from all over down east. |
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| zardoz |
This is a DSTN LCD panel...VERY slow response time and lousy colour range. If that isn't bad enough you need an LCD controller card... so in the end you put out something close to $200.00 American for a controller to run a $10.00 LCD screen. For $10.00 they are a decent learning tool (take apart a scrap LCD before you try a good one). When you get it apart you see that there are 2 circuit boards that are mounted on the back of the panel, blocking the view area....that are connected by thin ribbon cable.
All that being said....junk ;)
zardoz |
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| Iceshack |
Thanx again for the very useful info.I as you might have guessed am new to this and am just learning so any info to keep me from waisting hard earned dollars is of great help. Also if they are 200 american that works out to 100,000 canadian anyways....lol
Just kidding |
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| mgerny |
I am working on a compact projector. 11"X10"x5" + lens.
I currently have a light module from a Kodak slide projector. 300w light with mirror, and heat absorbing lens. the light is very kool and bright. A 5" lcd from parstexpress, and deltaIV lens.
The light output is rated at 1300 lumens after the heat absorbing lens and mirror.
This is a very small design if it works.
I am using the mounts from the kodak slide projector so I dont have to build mounts for the light. and an all new box for the rest.
I have thought of using 2 or 3 Halogen lights from Home depot ($9.00ea) in place of the light module, or just adding another light module, but this would increase the size of my projector.
The light is very small so I am guessing that the edges will have low light. I think I can help by building a concave screen.
The pics are rough sorry
???? |
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| mgerny |
Similar to the design using the light from a slide projector. except the light source will be from two halogen lights from home depot.
This will be larger than the original design, but shoult have good output. I am just concerned about the heat on the LCD without the heat absorbing lens.
two 300w halogen lights, facing at a 45 to the lcd to get light to the edges. A std piece of glass to help create an air gap between the light box and the LCD.
Fresnal lens to help get more light through the LCD
5" lcd from partsexpress.com
delta IV lens
Is there a heat absorbing glass that is large enough fro the opening 5" diag?
See the pic.
?????? |
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| slize |
Hi all,
after a long time i finally made it. I will post picturers next week, because i got a digi cam from a friend for the weekend.
here are my parts again:
PC TFT Monitor
Fresnel lense a OHP
Optic of a OHP
Aluminium Box for the lamp
300W halogen lamp
and so on
you will see it in the pictures...
i found out one thing that is very interesting to me:
the lamp with a reflector is very hot on the glass where the lcd is. about 100 degrees celcius (i dunno how to say in farenheit)
but without a reflector it is just 40 d c... had it from a thermometer; so without a reflector the heat is twice lower than with one and the light is qiute the same, at least it was with my fresnel lense.
I am telling u this, because we had a lot of argues going on about the perfect reflector for the lamp, and I think u don't even need one. It just reflects the whole heat to the panel. because light is to over 50% heat; IR light...
And one thing about fans: always think about the position of a fan: cool air comes from the bottom, hot air goes up. So in my opinon the ideal formation for two fans is: one at the bottom of the projector to bring new cool air in. One at the top of the projector to bring the hot air out......
Telling u more with the pics next week...
cya till then |
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| slize |
hi mgerny,
your 2nd design is very interesting. but let me ask u some questions:
- why TWO 300W lamps (each of it has more than 300 degrees celcius, try to handle one first), ONE glas won't help for the heat problem... i have three glases before the lcd comes... and it still has 40 degrees celcius after 4 hours... (which is ok, i think)
- second problem of the two lamps is you will have to hotspots in the projected image. u are right if u want to light out the ankles but don't forget the middle of the picture... hotspots are seen becaus one point is brighter than the other...
- are u using two reflectors? what do u think about my theorie in my previous post?
- and how will your fans be positioned
sorry for my bad english :idea: hope you got the idea of what i wanted to ask...
best regards andy |
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| mgerny |
I planned on installing one large high volume fan with a baffle to keep the noise levels down, And just venting the sides of the box to force a convection within the chamberto keep the heat as even as possible. One of the other fan positions is on the top of the box, and vents on the bottom. All I am trying to do is keep the temp down in the box, and still looking for a glass that will absorb the unwantes heat froom the light. I have heard that some of the hear (IR) is reflected back into the lighted area anyway, because the LCD's only use about half of the light unless they are designed to be a clear view like the larger LCD panels used in overhead projection projection systems.
The LOA lights will have the manufac glass still on them. I planned on keeping them as factory as possible, but not sure about the life of the lamp or the plastic case it comes in if the temps get too hot.
I have another design with the LOA lights facing each other 90 deg from the lcd with mirrors in a v to reflect the light towards the lcd. I think this might be a more efficient way to light the perimiter without loosing the light in the center. |
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| mgerny |
The first mirror and the lens are part of the light module, These will not be removed for the first test. I might get out the hacksaw if it doesnt work, and start major modifications. I think I can keep it small or maybee make it smaller. It all depends on how much of this I want to make custom, and how much I want to keep the parts in sets, so they are easily swapable. If the lamp goes out, I dont want to take apart the entire box to get to a lamp. With the light module and the sleve that it goes into I can jest slide it out of the back and replace the lamp or the whole module.
Not to mention there is a light module that has two lamps installed that has more output in the same size module.
Future upgrade possibities, or just looking into the option for a day/night switch that would be easily turned on and off.
I am banking on the first design, or something close to it as my goal the second design is one to fall back on, just in case.
Keep the input coming. |
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| tahustvedt |
How come noone has tried using anamorphic lenses in their DIY projectors? It would enable you to take advantage of the full vertical resolution of the LCD-panel with widescreen material and give a much smoother picture because the picture compressed vertically.
It's very easy to make an anamorphic lens, just read the thread in this forum and visit my website. It can be made in any size, but when used it a hot area it should have an expansion chamber for the fluids.
I would make one if I was to make a projector. :)
Here's a picture of one I made earlier:
And here it is hanging in front of my old projector:
Tor Arne |
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| slize |
thanks a lot arne,
this is what i always looked for... not only will it better for the resolution but also for the impression of brightness of the projected picture...
i will start immediately to built such a thing...
best regards
andy |
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| Undream |
HEY GUYS!!!! WHATS UP.
/me makes cameo appearance
:cool: |
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| slize |
i looked the emperors new groove this weekend on my projector at 100". It was awesome :bigeyes:
but then i wanted to look password swordfish; and i was disapointed :(
the picture is seeable though but not bright enough, i think its too dark. so i decided to take the 500W halogen bulb. but i wasn't really better. 300W -> 6500 lumens 500W -> 9500 lumens
i finally decided to buy an hqi bulb at 400W (i think this is comparable to an mh bulb) costs 65$ a bulb
it has 30000 lumens 5600K colour temperature and lives 8000h. I asked in every electric store i knew; nothing came out. but guess where i found it: in a aqarium store. it is a fish lamp for aquriums; i was really surprised...
all in all with electrical stuff it costs 115$
i've gone this far now i won't stop just because of the bulb. it is my last inverstation i hope...
will post pictures with the new lamp, didn't get the didi cam yet
cy' all andy |
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| slize |
hi undream,
you are still not satisfied with your 400W mh bulb with 36000 lumens??? :bigeyes:
you scare me, because i've invested 115$ in the same thing too and now you are tellin gme it won't work??? :bawling: All the nice money...
or is just that you are not satisfied with it? :confused: Please I need hope...
best regards andy |
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| verbose mustafa |
| It all depends what size picture you are shooting for and what you want for brighness. 36000 = 360 ansi lumens (picture brighness on wall). Very good for a 5-6 foot image. Hell, i was impressed projecting using the lcds backlight as a lightsource. |
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| Undream |
I sold my whole 400W setup for $75, and I sent out $120 about 4-5 months ago to a guy for a 1000W setup, and, he never delivered. I got ripped, and, it basically put my project on hold since I will prolly never be able to come up with the $120-150 again.
I've invested well over $450 into this project, and, basically, all I have is a nice screen on my wall and a Sharp QA-1750. Doh. |
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