| SuckerFish |
Anyone interested in an extra HMI 575 /GS halide bulb.
Same model from OSRAM that works in dukane 680 and other professional equipment.
I bought an extra one for my OHP (which no longer works)
Bulb is brand new not used.
Im seriously considering just buying an LCD projector.
Im so sick of things breaking on me without a warrenty :(
If interested email me
sucker_fish@hotmail.com
Thx guys, for all the help in the past. |
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| biteon |
i didnt feel like writing a novel to explain this so i hope you guys under stand the picture i attached here. it might be kinda big depending on the light you use. no i have not made it. and still got doubts about the size it has to be to fit my mh 400w light.it looks like it might be a giant. but hey i think logically i might work.
:D :D :D :D |
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| Marklar |
Well I got an email today from Brian Greaves and he has found a place to get small LCDs well are you ready?
http://www.crlopto.com/products/index.php#
Heres a copy of an email he got from them.
Brian,
You came to the right place. We are the distributors for CRL Opto products
in North America and we deal with quantities from 1 pc. up to 10,000 per
year. Are you interested in reflective or transmissive LCDs? Please feel
free to give me a call at 661-295-5770. I will be leaving the office at
4:30 today, but will be available all day Tues-Thursday this week.
Thanks for considering CRL Opto products.
Regards,
Bob |
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| uvodee |
I really withold myself from not grabbing the phone Bryan....
I do not think it would be good for everybody to start calling them for 1 lcd. Maybe soemone should call them reprecsenting the whole forum and aks all the relative questions and ofcourse the prize tag...
i am definitely interested, i can see the whole casing getting shorter already!!!!
Jean-Pierre |
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| multiplexor |
| quote: | Originally posted by uvodee
I really withold myself from not grabbing the phone Bryan....
I do not think it would be good for everybody to start calling them for 1 lcd. Maybe soemone should call them reprecsenting the whole forum and aks all the relative questions and ofcourse the prize tag...
i am definitely interested, i can see the whole casing getting shorter already!!!!
Jean-Pierre |
I would have to agree.... one person should figure out some prices and let us know, instead of all of use calling up and bothering the guy :)
nice find though! |
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| Marklar |
| HEEHHHEH I just sent an email to that select deminsion dude. I hehe i called him a lamer and told him my projector blows his off the face of the planet :P why do i like to be so mean wtf have i been drinking? |
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| Tinker |
| quote: | Originally posted by Marklar
HEEHHHEH I just sent an email to that select deminsion dude. I hehe i called him a lamer and told him my projector blows his off the face of the planet :P why do i like to be so mean wtf have i been drinking? |
Ha, I bet he didnt expect someone to say their DIY unit was better. He should be ashamed of himself outrightly lieing and taking advantage of dumb people. I hate scamers, he looks like a pro at it by his website. Did you see his lcd projector? It looks like a tank from wwII and he wants $800.00 fo it. LOL:rolleyes: |
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| Marklar |
| yea hahaha thats a little much I wander if he would buy my feces for $100 a pound. |
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| Blockhead |
Man I wonder where they got that model to hold that sleek device...she is hot..lololol....but really what is she holding...because the projector looks large then there is a pic of her holding one in her hand...as if it is a "Fun Size"?????
-Blockhead |
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| Tinker |
| Huh? I guess it is small. Still ugly! Anyhow it must be a small panel with low res. I garuntee his projection doesnt look like the image behind that uhmmm, "model"...hehe;) |
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| Gunawan W |
Great idea Biteon!
Based on yours, but little different:
Instead of using big fresnel panel to produce parallel rays, I use circular array of 8 convex lenses + 1 convex lens in front of the lamp. Each lens should be placed at 1 focal length distance from point light source. Would be perfect if we can find square lens!
Spherical reflector function is to reflect back the light to very near it's point light source origin, so we have more intensity point light source now. Lamp should be placed at center of reflector radius.
Flat mirror is to reflect all the parallel rays to the LCD panel. Size total of 8 mirrors in circular array should be slightly bigger than LCD panel size. There are some gaps between the mirror, but I think due to imperfect parallel rays we get, it will covered up with some splitter rays.
Any comment?
See you. |
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| Undream |
Hey guys. I've been uh..... slacking on the project. Yeah. Its in this giant pile or stuff in my living room corner. Hehe. However, I just sent out the money order on monday morning for a new 1000W/U/BT37 bulb, Mogul socket, and Advance 1000W multi-tap ballast kit all for $120 shipped, about $25 more than I paid for my 400W setup. Pretty good deal.
Anyways, I'm going to give this a shot. I need a plate of low-e glass for heat issues, can anyone give me a quick link to one I can purchase? |
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| Tinker |
Doesnt surplus shed have'em? Anyhow low-e glass or this stuff here this is a clip of a article on conservatorys...
"Conservatories that are subject to building regulation approval are likely to have Pilkington K Glass or low E glass specified in order to conform to the "U" values required by building regulations. "
question
"We are having a hard wood conservatory installed using Pilkington K Glass. In the rest of the house the double glazing has laminated glass. I think Pilkington supply K glass in a laminate form. I just wondered if this would be suitable for a conservatory.
answer
This question answered by Brendan Bermingham - Pilkington K glass is definitely available in laminated form and it would be more than suitable for a conservatory. I wonder why your house is glazed using laminated glass? Perhaps it was because it gives increased security over ordinary window glass or toughened safety glass, it gives superior sound insulation and it cuts down uv radiation by 99.5% which stops your furniture fading.
As your conservatory is being built now it will be to late to change the specification, but an ideal spec would be Pilks K laminated/4mm antisun. The antisun will reduce heat build up and glare.
Anybody know anything about this Pilkington K Glass? This may work well for what you need also but maybe be not as dark?:confused:
Undream- holly cow 1000watts! Whats the lumens on that bad boy? Anyhow what reflector, I dont think you even need one huh...just a condensor and away you go. Me I'm happy with 15,000 lumens, a parabolic reflector and a fres, that is soon to be replaced with a condensor lens. Oh and a couple of 3m films before the lcd also...hehe.;) |
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| Tinker |
"my current setup:
150W-12.000 lumens double-ended MH lamp,"
Hehe. I thought I was the only oneusing a low powered bulb.. 175watt mh small arc tube. Mogul, m57 ballast runs both 150 and 175mh plus High presure sodium bulbs, though I dont know why. Anyhow good to se someone else going the sam eroute. My figures were:
Smaller bulb='s less heat. Also smaller arc tube, lots smaller. Smaller panel a smaller beam of light needed. Thus the less heat making for the lcd to set closer to the bulb. How far is your bulb to panel? Mine is about 5" from center of bulb to edge of lcd! That allows more light into the panel without escaping. Also this makes the reflector more effective since the bulb is smaller and the smaller bulb matches the smaller lcd (mine is 5"). Plus smaller reflectors are a heck of alot easier to find or make. How do you like your lower powered bulb. I love mine. Works great. Next to no heat, but lots o light and easy on the electric bill! |
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| uvodee |
i am really getting irritated now:
Spherical reflector function is to reflect back the light to very near it's point light source origin, so we have more intensity point light source now. Lamp should be placed at center of reflector radius.
Flat mirror is to reflect all the parallel rays to the LCD panel. Size total of 8 mirrors in circular array should be slightly bigger than LCD panel size. There are some gaps between the mirror, but I think due to imperfect parallel rays we get, it will covered up with some splitter rays.
Any comment?
I may not understand what I am doing, (Je pense donc je suis, at least) but putting a light bulb vertically in front of a reflector requires POWER (and consequently, because you do not wat to use a fluorex) produces HEAT. Because of vertical mountin light gets LOST !!!!! There are only 2 ways to avoid this.
primo) a hole in the center of the reflector and lamp mounted horizontally or
secundo) in front of the reflector, again horizontally and trying to avoid the shade of the wiring of the lamp.
any other system is doomed Gua... sorryto tell you this bluntly but i DO NOT believe in any other system set up
Look at some of us going for 1000 watters ????? what is the loss in percentage ? astronomical but no loss in heat, resulting in astronomical heat (undream can pop corn on top of his projector!)
No one answred to my suggestion of using a car lamp. I bought the Sylvania lamp (complete set including glued on reflector for $12.50 ) and am looking at it right now! Again, Gua... i cannot say anything else than WOW , simple, fool proof, i can use this instead of 2 fluorex( cost $65 reduced to $12.50) and the result is the same, i have to say in all honesty, the car set gives more color to the screen than the fluorex and is a tad brighter!
I like this forum, but sometimes there is something missing...
i have to find the right words .... |
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| uvodee |
Before someone accuses me of cheating or wrong doing, if you are going to use a lampset from a car (Cutlass 84 or so, zyou know the rectangular shape, a bit wider than a 5.6 inch) you have to install the lamp in a small angle backwards. The type i used has more carvind on the lower side and reflects thus more light! The difference was noticable when i used a dark screensaver) Without the diffuser the beam was TOOOOOOOO bright!
and now back to you folks. |
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| slize |
| quote: | Originally posted by uvodee
here you can see how i extended a flex laminated cable that was originally 1" lang into a 10" one.
Thank you Mr Mike Birch of Parlex!!!! |
Hi Uvodee,
how did you manage to extend the cable? Because i need to extend mine on my lcd too. Did you do it by yourself or is there anyone who made it?
My cable has 30 contacts; how many had yours? Can i buy this cables in a longer version somewhere???
regards andy |
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| Tinker |
"but putting a light bulb vertically in front of a reflector requires POWER (and consequently, because you do not wat to use a fluorex) produces HEAT. Because of vertical "
HuH? How does verticle mount use more power. Mine is universal mount. I can mount it diagnal if I want. Or are you refering to your flourex? Confused???
"any other system is doomed Gua... sorryto tell you this bluntly but i DO NOT believe in any other system set up
Look at some of us going for 1000 watters ????? "
Dont see what you mean? I'm using 175watts MH very effectivly for a 62" diag. image! It just depends on how big a image you want. Now I dont really think you are getting a 10' image with one car headlight that is only a 55watt or even a 100watt halogen. If you are you got good eyes! Your looking at about 1,200+ lumens vs. my 15,000 and to boot I have LESS HEAT. A MH is alot cooler than any Halogen of = watts. Heck my 10o halogen 90watt 1,200 lumens bulb is twice as hot as my 175watt MH, this I know. Now I know MH is expensive cause of the ballast BUT have you ever tried MH to put it down like that? You couldnt have or you would know some things are dif than you said! I personally have used Halogen then Flourex then MH. MH blew them all away, no going back. Colors are perfect and its way more of a point light source than flourex. This makes reflector more effective. Heck I'm using a highly buffed stainless steel mixing bowl for my reflector and it works really well. The bulb just fits and the arc tube is centered in the bowl both ways. |
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| uvodee |
how i managed to extend the cable ........ trhough headaches!!
i had to extend a 20 pos and a 10 pos laminated cable
laminate = thin film like they use for feeding printerheads etc....
the cable lengths i got by looking at the PARLEX website and contacting Mike Birsch (he is going to kill me now)!!
then i used liquid silver contact ( i got taht in Belgium but i am sure you can buy this in the US, maybe Radioa shack
i glued the 2 non covered sides of the cable with the silver solution together (carefull that you DO NOT use too much as the solution could spread to other leads, there is not a lot of spacing between them as mine had e.g. 20 leads on a 16.8 mm wide cable.
THEN I WENT TO THE WEBSITE OF MOLEX and looked for the right connector ( a connector that you can mount on a pcb and has on the other side some kind of ZIF socket style. i could post a piture of one i have left over with 10 and 20 poc but regretgfully my camera is no good in close ups. Anyway when you go to the MOLEX website, you just look for the connectors you want, you can get tech support by phone, and then order samples ( do not exagerate OK????) FREE OF CHARGE (I LOVE CORPORATE AMERICA) You get them a few days later (you can follow your shipment on their website), unfortunately i cannot remember how it arreived: trhough mail or Fedex , i thinkit was the latter.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANY OF YOU GUYS TO FOLLOW MY CRUSADE
I am sure that if i need to make another projector (i have made 3 so far) i will go for the PSONE lcd, if my eyes are still focussing, that lcd only has one cable and can easily be bent out of the view of the light beam! |
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| uvodee |
| quote: | Originally posted by Tinker
"
HuH? How does verticle mount use more power. Mine is universal mount. I can mount it diagnal if I want. Or are you refering to your flourex? Confused???
through vertical mount of the light bulb, i can clearly see that half of the light goes away from the reflector and is not 'used'
if you mount the bulb inwards =towards the reflector and in line with it, the light gets more efficiently reflected, same if you would make a hole through the back of the reflector and slide the socket trhough it.
Look at some of us going for 1000 watters ????? "
Dont see what you mean? I'm using 175watts MH very effectivly for a 62" diag. image! It just depends on how big a image you want. Now I dont really think you are getting a 10' image with one car headlight that is only a 55watt or even a 100watt halogen.
MY TEST SET UP HAS A 55WATT bulb.(marked on the box as the bulb and reflector are glued together and i have no clue how the bulb looks like.
If you are you got good eyes! Your looking at about 1,200+ lumens vs. my 15,000 and to boot I have LESS HEAT. A MH is alot cooler than any Halogen of = watts. Heck my 10o halogen 90watt 1,200 lumens bulb is twice as hot as my 175watt MH, this I know. Now I know MH is expensive cause of the ballast BUT have you ever tried MH to put it down like that?
I HAVE TO ADMIT, I HAVE NEVER TRIED WITH A MH!
You couldnt have or you would know some things are dif than you said! I personally have used Halogen then Flourex then MH. MH blew them all away, no going back. Colors are perfect and its way more of a point light source than flourex. This makes reflector more effective. Heck I'm using a highly buffed stainless steel mixing bowl for my reflector and it works really well. The bulb just fits and the arc tube is centered in the bowl both ways. |
I believe you , i never told any one that fluorex was a point light source, they are flood light, but please do not loose out of eye that because the fluorex is placed in the closest proximity of the lcd as possible, the set up changes it's purpose and with good result i may add. ALlthough i did state that the sylvania lamp gives a better colorlook, allthough with yellow it seems to have a slight problem (intensifies it remarkably ) but that i gues, will be explained by some much smarter guys on this forum, for which i always hold my breath! |
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| jpsexton |
Hey uvodee
Are you telling me you used a car lamp?
I had thought of this before and said to myself "Nah! to easy"
More details please, I don't understand what you meant by:
"you have to install the lamp in a small angle backwards" |
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| uvodee |
well for what it's worth i will answer this one.....
my Sylavania lamp does not have astraight beam but slightly downwards. i noticed it when the fresnel was put in front of it.
so i noticed that when i tilted the lamp ensemble slightly backwards, the beam became horizontal, i wanted to give that advise but i am sure that diy'ers here would have noticed that anyway ! |
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| pod184 |
Does anyone know or heard any more info on the tiny lcds that were posted a page or so back? I figured someone would know something by now.
Anyone??
Pod |
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| prjctr_builder |
those small LCDs... finally there's a light in the end of the tunnell... with that resolution and size, the projetor can be the size of a shoe box... i gotta find out how much they are...
the only thing that scares me is that contrast ratio might be low...:bawling:
:bigeyes: good job, guys :bigeyes: |
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| Gunawan W |
Hi Tinker,
my lamp about 10" from the panel. Produce brightness much-much better than my previous 300W Halogen lamp, also it's like point light source, so the projected image doesn't blurry at all the edges.
Do you have any idea how to DIY polarization thing?
Hi Ovu...,
Actually I don't like to answer your previous bluntly post, but I do, thank's for your "polite" comments,
this is the second time you said "flaw" to me as long as I could remember, first you said my lens calculation spreadsheet is flaw, but you didn't mention which part is "flaw", now you said my reflector is "definitely flaw", but again you didn't do the test yourself, you just say what you think right.
Basically my reflector setup is similar with most OHP reflector did, with my long research and tested myself, spherical reflector is the easiest to DIY and get an affordable result at little cost, with 150W MH lamp, heat is not an issue here, do you know double ended MH lamp looklike? It's all glass enclosure only very small part blocking the light beam, so put it in front of reflector not much light will loose, no need to make a hole on the reflector. Please try searching keyword like: MH lamp, double filament, OHP reflector, spherical reflector etc to learn more from Internet, before made some comment, because I can't explain to much due to my inadequate English language.
I don't believe your long story about your "Fluorex" setup could produce good result...and now: car lamp,
it was already discussed in this forum several time long before, please try "printable version" to search.
FYI, good projector needs at least 500 ANSI lumens to get 70" diagonal size screen in a dimmed room, it has 250 Watts MH lamp (TOSHIBA TLP-410J, EPSON ELP-5000, SANYO PLC-5500N etc), the best lumens/Watt for MH lamp until now is 90 lumens/watt, so total lumens from the lamp is 250x90=22500 lumens! How much lumens do you get from your "Fluorex" or car lamp? and how much lumens output you get with efficiency factor only 15% from your projector? (best commercial projector only has 30% efficiency!). Correct me if I'm wrong.
Anyway,
I'm learning multiple lamps setup now, it was discussed before, I think it will solve my problem due to OHP fresnel size I'm using, which a little bit to small for 15" LCD panel. If I can get parallel rays from multiple lamps setup with small reflector behind each lamp, I don't need fresnel panel anymore.
Any better idea?
See you. |
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| uvodee |
the best lumens/Watt for MH lamp until now is 90 lumens/watt, so total lumens from the lamp is 250x90=22500 lumens! How much lumens do you get from your "Fluorex" or car lamp? and how much lumens output you get with efficiency factor only 15% from your projector?
humm now we are starting to undermine Lights Of America ??
where does this end.
according to LOA total lumes output is 6850.
I use 2, so more than 13.000 . I do believe that when 2 are combined, ones looses some lumen so i keep it at around 11.000
Your flaw?
well, nobody noticed (just as nobody reacted on the Fibonacci theory that i brought up here stating that 16:9 screens are fundamentally useless for human beings-if nobody participating to this forum has noticed this, well than i guess it's time for me to move on!) and i wonder why.... did anyone set up the project as your example?
I did.... and i noticed that it did not result in the same screen diagonal ( i asked my wife to mark with tape the outer points) , it was off more than 20 inches on a total of 84........
the i started to see that it was the fresnel that changed the results. 3 fresnels that passed my desk in 7 weeks all gave a different result. One Apollo, one TADI and one generic from Office Max all had different pictures. strangely enough The delta 67 and IV who are on the outside are so different and have a different focal point are very very similar in result. Again i repeat my self as in former postings. It must be me that does something somewhere wrong, i just cannot find it.
About the car lamp Sylvania, i can be very brief! it is the best result i have had, not for brightness but the color yellow is nowperfect and was not 100 pct with fluorex!
I am not an engineer nor a carpenter, i have a Ph.D in Global economy, but when i finished univ. it was calle world economics. Maybe i may not look so smart in your eyes Guna.. but i pretty much judge results quiet balanced. |
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| Gunawan W |
Hi Uvodee,
thank you for your information regarding the "flaw".
I made the calculation from general rules of optic, I didn't create the formula myself, I don't have the ability to do it because I'm just an carpenter's assistant without any university degree like you, I just tried to make a good presentation spreadsheet and the formula I used is as it.
Please take a look at this site:
http://www.education.eth.net/acads/physics/light-X.htm
I'm sure you understand the formula better than I.
I don't know why the result was biased up to 20", maybe it was influenced by the fresnel type or the optic shape you use, maybe this formula can explain why:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.ed...opt/lenmak.html
Or maybe I should write "all result is approximate only and can biased more than 100" in my spreadsheet.
If you satisfied with your LOA result, fine, I just want to show you how much lumens needed by a good commercial projector. Please take a look at this site:
http://www.unitedvisual.com/2faq/2faq1.asp
and this quote, I can't find the site:
BRIGHTNESS:
LCD type using metal halide arc lamp, which is far brighter than the CRT type, you can even watch it without turning the light off. We are using a 250W metal halide arc light projector; the brightness could reach up to 550 ANSI lumen.
A good illumination source has to satisfy the need of efficiency, color rendering, color temperature, lifetime, stability, and safety. Light bulbs have options like halogen, xenon, metal halide, etc. Metal halide is the most appropriate one to adapt in the illumination system because of its high efficiency (generally 60-80 lm/watt, Xenon light is around 20-30lm/watt), high color performance (generally 75), high color temperature (generally around 6000K) and short arc gap (shorter than 6mm).
There are three types of reflectors, spherical mirror, parabolic mirror and elliptical mirror, parabolic mirror . Spherical mirror mostly use on single panel LCD projection system in the early days, went with halogen lamp and aspherical condenser of high numerical aperture mirror to build up the single panel system. Parabolic mirror mostly use on 3-panel 3.1¡¨amorphous-TFT LCD, considering the capital, collection efficiency and the incident light should have good _㪽©Ê. Although elliptical mirror has better collection efficiency, somehow it¡¦s hard to produce and the capital is high.
see you. |
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| Zero Alias |
| quote: | Originally posted by braxton
I got a sharp qa-1650 off of ebay- purchased beginning of May.
I asked to have it shipped to my sister's place in the US so she could bring it when she came to visit (I live in canada and wanted to save on shipping-he quoted me $90 shipping to Canada-$20 to US). Because the guy didn't ship it until over 2 weeks after he said he would, it did not arrive at my sisters on time for her to bring it. Also, she didn't feel comfortable testing it other than to say it powered up ok. She came up to Canada again today so I could finally test it.
Unfortunately, the VGA input doesn't seem to work, and with the rca video in I only get black and white images from a DVD or VCR.
Im tried all settings from the panel and the remote (ie contrast tint color), but still only get black and white. Haven't tried s-video in yet-will buy a cable tomorrow.
Any suggestions as to what could be wrong?
The weird thing is that the startup screen appears in color and all colors are crisp. The menu is in blue and thats ok too. But screen only shows black and white???
Hope someone can help me. I'm not counting on the seller being very supportive- he never returned emails when I was trying to find out why my panel hadn't arrived when it was supposed to.
Thanks. |
On the side of the panel there should be a switch for PAL or NTSC Switch the small black switch to NTSC and see if that works. |
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| Mario007 |
| You might also want to make sure you are hooking your vga up correctly. There are two ports a 26 pin connector where the computer input goes in and a standard hd 15. If you do not plug into the 26 pin connnector vga will not work. If you don't have a connector check out the Panel Paranoia! VGA cable -» need help thread in this forum. |
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| Undream |
the 1000W bulb I am picking up will have somewhere in the neighborhood of 110,000 lumens with a life of 10,000 hours. After 5,000 hours of use, the lumen output will be around 90,000, and nearing the end of its life, it could be as low as 75,000 lumens.
that means, it will be triple the brightness of my 36,000 lumen 400W bulb, which actually makes it an even more efficient bulb. 110 lumens per watt, compared to 90 lumens per watt. That means it will probably only be about 104.5% hotter than my 400W bulb was - which I actually bumped into on several occaisions and didnt get burned. I can deal with that increase in heat. Its still not nearly as hot as even a 300W halogen, which people are STILL using.
It will cost about $40 to replace. I needed a cheap solution guys. $120 might seem like a big initial cost. But, I'm looking as the big picture here. I am planning on having this thing on at least 5 hours a day. It needs to be bright enough for mid-day use with blinds pulled. I cant afford a commercial projectors bulbs (would be ~$600.00 a year), and even the small overhead projector lamps (would be ~$250.00/year). This gives me more than 5 years of use out of a single $40 bulb. That is only $7.40 a year lighting cost.
Of course, I'm sure my electric bill will go up. Each hour I run it, it will be $.0825 or so I think (guessing from a bill I paid the other day.) compared to most peoples lower wattage setups that will only be ~$.035. Still, .0825 * 5 * 365 = $150.56, compared to the current $40.00 a year we are spending to run our 32 inch TV. Thats a $110.00/year increase, but, add it to my $7.40 annual light bulb bill, and I get away with a projector brighter than all of the OHP's and some commercial projectors,
for only $118.00 a year, or about $9.83 per month. |
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| Gunawan W |
Hi all,
I just finished my first experiment with spherical type reflector.
I used spherical reflector type, as I said before, it is very easy to find.
I used, what do you call it "soup spoon?" (fig.1), it has perfect spherical shape with around 2" diameter, made from very shiny chromed finish.
I placed the lamp at 1 r of spoon radius, the reflector will reflect back the light at near lamp's filament (point light source).
the result was wonderful, no hotspot at all sides of projected beam. Of course it still has wasted light in between the reflector and the fresnel panel, that's why I'm going to try the second experiment:
I will use perfect spherical shape frying pan (12"dia.) made from stainless steel with mirror finish as main reflector and perfect spherical shape small "sugar/tea spoon?" chromed finish (1/2" dia.) as secondary reflector (foig. 2).
The lamp will be placed at 1/2 r of frying pan to produce parallel light, in front of the lamp will be placed small reflector at a distance 1 r of the spoon to reflect back the light as first experiment (fig.1).
With this type of reflector, I no longer need fresnel panel, since the light beam already parallel rays when hit the LCD panel. It still has wasted light in between the main reflector and the secondary reflector, but it's not much as first experiment type. How about coldspot at the center of the lamp because of small reflector?
I think it will be reduced by light rays splitters around it, since this can't produce 100% parallel light.
Any comment? |
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| remp |
Gunawan W
Brilliant idea. |
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| Undream |
| I don't see how it would work, IMO. That cold spot is definitely going to be a problem. |
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| braxton |
| quote: | Originally posted by Zero Alias
On the side of the panel there should be a switch for PAL or NTSC Switch the small black switch to NTSC and see if that works. |
It was me that posted the problem months ago.
I had tried all the switches on the side, but still black and white.
It turns out the video board inside the panel was somewhat loose or had a loose connection somewhere- figured it out since once I wiggled the board I got color temporarily. When I placed a piece of foam under the board, and reassembled, the color worked fine.
Just thought this might help others...
However, Zero alias is also right- there is a switch on the side that will give color or B/W, but that was not my problem.
Thanks again for the feedback!
Braxton |
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| pumkindrvr |
Hello,
I just checked out your web site. That is a very professional looking projector. On your FAQ, you say you will be selling them. I know I will be buying one. Maybe you could sell a do-it-yourself kit. Anyway, just wanted to say Great job. |
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| Marklar |
| quote: | Originally posted by pumkindrvr
Hello,
I just checked out your web site. That is a very professional looking projector. On your FAQ, you say you will be selling them. I know I will be buying one. Maybe you could sell a do-it-yourself kit. Anyway, just wanted to say Great job. |
Yes if I can get ahold of quality parts I will be makeing some all my friends want one. I just need to find the rights parts to make a good projector, I wouldnt sell mine cuz its well my first and its not perfect. Soon as I get some money Im gonna get one of those small LCDs and try a few different kind of lower wattage bulb. We'll see how it turns out. :P |
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| blahn |
| has anyone gotten a quote on those small lcds yet? |
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| uvodee |
| quote: | Originally posted by blahn
has anyone gotten a quote on those small lcds yet? |
I am also anxiously waitin' !
J-P. |
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| CryingDragon |
| 63 PAGES?!?! AHHHHHHHH!!!! *runs into the night screaming* |
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| jvisaria |
okay so here is a thought --
We know many people have gotten the fish-eye projection using the CRT lenses.... we know many people have gotten washed out images using the fluorex lights... how many people have tried and gotten bad results using BOTH the CRT lens and fluorex light in the same setup?
Maybe this is why some people have success and others dont?
UVODEE:
have some other questions for you -- is there a way i could contact you via email?
Jay |
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| Jason |
| biteon: Nice line art. Your images would look a lot sharper and cleaner, and also compress smaller, if you used GIF instead of JPEG. |
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| stoko |
HELP NEEDED AT "LCD PANEL" THREAD!!!
please go there and check it!
we might be on the right way to discover how to connect laptop LCD to desktop pc !!! |
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| Marklar |
| Well finally got a price on a .7" svga LCD with converter that has s-video and composite...... $4000 hmm **** back to the drawing board we were so freaking close man!!! well he did say it was $2200 if i bought 100 of them :/ im bout to give up the technology is not here yet give it a few more years or so before building a small high quality projector. Unless you got deep pockets and have nothing else to buy. |
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| dice45 |
Gunawan,
your idea with two sperical mirrors should work fine. :scratch2:..Just, as 100% of the visible and infrared radiation hitting the front mirror (a considerable spatial angle) are reflected back on the filament,i would be concerned about overheating the bulb, particularly the filament. :scratch:..Whether this setup ages your bulb excessively, longterm experiments will have to show. |
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| Smoke Eater |
| I especially like that 400 watt model that is 208 MM wide. (If I'm doing my conversion right, that should be just over 8 inches?) I've tried searching for someone who might sell this bulb in the U.S. but haven't come up with a supplier. Has anyone else found one? |
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| Gunawan W |
Hi dice45,
actually using spherical reflector to reflect back the light to the lamp filament is not my own idea, it's commonly used by commercial OHP, I just want to show that spherical reflector can produce good result.
Many of us couldn't find or "DIY" reflector with good result because of wrong type / shape / size of the reflector, so I tried a cheap, simple and easy one of reflector setup and so far I have a good result with setup as fig.1 of my previous drawing. |
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| stoko |
originaly posted by the whiner:
"I know there were many discussions about this, but I am still convinced it is possible to connect laptop’s LCD screen to desktop PC!..........Maybe it is possible to take digital signal from desktop’s video card, somewhere between GPU and digital/analog converter, and to lead it to LCD! I THINK IT WOULD BE THE MOST PROMISING AND CHEAPEST WAY TO DO IT!..................
............Why should you mess with it?..............................
1. I bought broken laptop for 50$, I sold HD, CD-ROM and adapter for 100$, and now I have LCD and 50$
2. Laptop’s LCD have much better specs than projection panel (which costs >200$)
3. Laptop’s LCD have polarisers etc., and it is much easier to build lighting device for it than for projection panel. If you look at laptop’s LCD, you will see that lighting tube is placed at one side of it, and screen is lighted evenly all over its surface, without hotspots etc. So, i think it could be lighted even with fluorescent light, without need to use reflectors, fresnels, etc!
4. Even if you are not making projector with such screen, this way you can get LCD desktop monitor for free!" |
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| stoko |
originaly posted by stoko:
"quote from:
http://www.techwarelabs.com/communi...?t=1313&start=0
Hi. electrical engineer & college proffesor here.
Working on the same project. here is the deal. tou CAN use a laptop screen on a standard PC. Configuring it to work with you analog VGA card is possible, but VERY VERY impracticle. here is what I reccomend for cost efficiency and ease. I know you want to keep it cheap.
if you dont have a main board yet (or if you do and have all the parts and pieces, IE chip, memory, etc) purchase a EBC 552 pc card. everything is built in including a TFT controller. then its just an issue of making a connector and matching the pins. these cards are made for AMD, Pentium, and VIA Cyrix, so you can buy the to match the CPU and memory you already have. they go for about 100$. kind of expensive, but its the closest
to plug and play as it gets. you'll easily spend 100 in parts and pieces to make a standart VGA card work....and you might end up burning something up. " |
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| stoko |
PLEASE, check out "lcd panel" thread!!!
help is needed there!
it might be very usefull to all of us!!! |
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| icculus |
| just stumbled on this site. this company sells a variet of boards with lcd controllers. haven't weeded through all of it yet, but there could be something good here.advantech |
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| AshanCN |
Has anyone tried using the new super bright LED for a light source ... ( I know it was ruled out earlier because of the cost )
I did a web search on LED + LUMENS on google and came up with a LED that is supposed to emit 125 lumens.... could this be real? Couldn't find a price though..... |
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| Timtimes |
It was in the first thread. Cost was an issue for sure (how much would you spend if each LED cost $2(for example) and only put out 125 lumen? Don't forget the loss associated with going through the LCD panel (>75% and some say 90%). You're talking big bucks there alone. Factor in the difficulty with focusing all those LED's? Fuggetaboutit.
Enjoy. |
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| sai |
| anyone know of any local U.S. stores that sell 3x or 6x fresnels?:bawling: |
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| Bitch |
I once participated for this forum actively but it stopped when I had to reinstall Windows and this site woulnd't recognize me anymore. I couldn't remember the pwd and my email wasn't working anymore so I couldn't receive the pwd.
So anyway I stumbled to this site few days ago and tried all the possible passwords I've ever used and got lucky.
Anyway I have ohp+proxima ovation 810 setup but never use it really. The reason is simple: Big screen with ****** picture isn't just very enjoyable to watch. In my setup the problems are:
- Panel is so old so it has faded from various places
- It "lags" so in really fast motion scenes you can see it drawing it
- You can see the pixels
- Colors look very toy
- Ohp leaks light quite a lot
- It's noisy as anything
You can ofcourse ignore these and try to enjoy the movie itself but after watching 10 or 15 movies with it (atleast in my case) you just really want to watch them from the good old tv.
So I'm just intrested has anyone here achieved something that after watching 15 movies you still can honestly say that you find it more enjoyable to watch from your screen than tv?
Also has anyone had any luck using TFT-monitor as panel without breaking it? And if so, how good are the results compared to normal projection panels? And compared to tv?-)
Anyway, keep up the good work. It's fun even if it doesn't replace tv. |
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| Axeman |
Hello again *****,
I for one can definitely say that I enjoy my projector far more than my TV, for hours of viewing. My OHP is only 3000 lumens! But of course my panel has a good response time and pretty good color. The only reason I still watch video on my TV(well, my HTPC's 19" monitor) is for convenience. I still need an easy way to switch to the projector, and a good place to mount it permantly, other than the middle of the room. :rolleyes:
I do not think it's time to give on this project. I am trying to get a metal halide system locally. and jam it in my OHP. The optics work the way they are, and I'm OK with the size. I just need a brighter light source, and to figure out the best way to mount it. |
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| Mystircal333 |
| You're being warn Axeman, "jam it in my OHP" is an understatement, unless you know what you are heading too. I hope you are not at foolish as I was to think that by placing any bulb in your OHP will make the OHP magically work. Have you check around the post for a MIH setup up yet. It really helpful. |
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| Rolm |
http://www.bulbs.com/products/produ...&inventory=9722
(better price here http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ec...tpages/1383.htm)
This is about the most reasonable balance of MH, reflector, and cost I've seen. It's a PAR38 narrow spot (16deg) that's 4-3/4" diameter, and it takes a cheap M57 ballast. Get a medium socket (~5$), make a metal can, open up the back of your OHM and try to mount it.
bulb - $90
ballast - $50
socket - $ 5
It _says_ 60,000 lumens, but I doubt it. And it doesn't have the greatest life, but 7500 hours @ $90 = $0.012/hour.
I was toying around with trying to make a reflector so I could use a regular mogul bulb, but this seems much, much easier. If the light output is anywhere near accurate, I might be in business.
I will be trying this setup in a cheapo 3M projector I got for the goose-egg in the next month or so. I'll tell you how it works out. And if it doesn't, I'll have a great way to **** off my neighbors. Midnight sun in the backyard! |
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| Rebies |
| quote: | Originally posted by Marklar
im bout to give up the technology is not here yet give it a few more years or so before building a small high quality projector. |
Just why I assume many of us, (newbies), are lingering around keeping up to date on whats going on!
Good job to all those of you who are "pushing" this area further though!
Andrew |
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| Bobo |
Great forum. Learned a lot from it!
I am i the process of building my first DIY LCD Projector. I have almost everithing I need.
I am looking to buy a MH floodlight ( with the rectangular reflector ) at 400W.
Could somebody let me know if they have used similar approach and if it have worked for them?
My projector will be verticaly mounted.
Thanks a lot for your help....
:) |
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| uvodee |
some of you know probablye the lcdprojector group on yahoo.
i stumbled across this 'interesting' set up of one of the guys that hardly ever uses his keyboard...
quote
"The delta lense is good for small lcds but 5 and 4 inch lcds, I'm using the Sony Psone lcd with a 50 watt Quartzs halogen light bulb, two condenser lenses instead of a fresnel lense and 4 1/2 PCX lense with a focal length of 12 1/2 inches. You don't need a bright light bulb if you can focus the light right."
unquote.
one 50 watts quarts halogen ....... no fresnels (i admit that i have always doubted these things in a non tv use setup, but yes i sinned , i have used them in all my set ups.!)
maybe some comment from the 'real connoisseurs? |
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| slize |
hi there,
i've found a nice tft on ebay -
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...1394792803&rd=1 -
for 68 bucks "buy it now" plus 30 bucks for s&h costs. It is interesting because it only has a size of 2" with a pixel number of about 200,000 dots (Resolution: 896 x 230 = 206080 pixels).
I know it is not svga neither vga but is better then most 4" or 5" tfts with only 180,000 dots.
And it is from Sony. That's what the seller says. May be that is an interesting one for someone who wants to spend around a 100$ for a tft for his projector and doesn't really wanna have a picture with a high number of pixels. For me it is not enough, so i didn't try it yet, but may be someone wants it...
andy |
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| uvodee |
| quote: | Originally posted by slize
It is interesting because it only has a size of 2" with a pixel number of about 200,000 dots (Resolution: 896 x 230 = 206080 pixels).
and doesn't really wanna have a picture with a high number of pixels. For me it is not enough
andy |
well heeeeeu 206k pixels is not enough? for a diy?
gee, i guess some guys are getting out of this earth........
i am definitely in for the game! a 2 inch : a dream come true.
Jean-Pierre
how come that gadgets always get smaller and suv's always get bigger????? |
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| Billett |
| quote: | I am looking to buy a MH floodlight ( with the rectangular reflector ) at 400W.
Could somebody let me know if they have used similar approach and if it have worked for them?
My projector will be verticaly mounted. :) [/B] |
I successfully use a 400w bulb with no reflector! It is almost bright enough... but not quite. If you were able to come up with a reflector to increase it's efficiency buy about 25% it would be more than OK.
I've been using the horizontal setup for a few months but am planing a vertical one. I want to get the reflector issue straitened out first and then build a NICE cabinet that looks good in my living room. Right now it's slapped together 2x4's and some MDF. I use the extra Blackout cloth from my screen to seal the light bleeding cracks.
To be presentable for visitors I have to turn off all the lights and start some music videos before they get there. If they see the monstrosity before they see the results it isn't as impressive.
Paul - The Nephilum |
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| Bobo |
Can you tell me pls, what kind of set up are you using?
(lcd screen, lenses, etc...)
Regards,
bobo |
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| Billett |
| quote: | Originally posted by Bobo
Can you tell me pls, what kind of set up are you using?
(lcd screen, lenses, etc...) |
Any Questions?
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| Paganini |
Hello everybody, I was also looking at this 2" (sony) tft. Has anyone tried this out? If it is good quality wouldn't it be ideal for making a compact, self-contained projector?
also, maybe i missed it, but is anyone using white lights? I remember seeing them for a $1.50 each.
My hope as of now is to make a very small black box with say a 2" monitor and 1-2 white lights. I'm going for portability, affordability. thanks |
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| Smoke Eater |
| Have you tried it both ways? (Using a plano-convex lense instead of the fresnel for projection?) I was wondering which would give the best clarity. Are you getting a pretty good image with just the fresnels? |
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| Billett |
| quote: | Originally posted by Smoke Eater
Have you tried it both ways? (Using a plano-convex lense instead of the fresnel for projection?) I was wondering which would give the best clarity. Are you getting a pretty good image with just the fresnels? |
Yes...
I've tried the pc as a final lens but I found it impossible to focus more than 35% of the image. It also magnified to strongly. With the regular frensel my projector is about 8 feet from the wall giving me an 80 inch image. The PC lens would have done it 3 feet from the wall.
I am very happy with the quality of the cheep fresnel. I am able to focus 95% of the image perfectly. So much so that the "screen door" lines in the LCD are visible. The other 5% of imperfect image may be do to the beat up or slightly bent nature of my fresnel. I'm going to get a new one that hasn't lived through a few hundred experiments and try it.
Paul |
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| Smoke Eater |
| Thanks Paul, I've been messing around with mine pieces and parts since I saw you diagram and I can see what you're saying. You mentioned that you're working on a reflector for your MH, I've been working on this myself. My problem is what type? Should I go for a spherical (and make the rays parallel right into the lcd screen) or ellipsical (focus the rays to one spot and then spread them out again with a lense), or some other design? I'm leaning (mainly because of the huge size of those MH bulbs) to a spherical or rectangular-spherical shape and sending parallel rays directly into the lcd screen. Is there any advantage to eliptical and converging them into a lense to re-spread them? :confused: Randy |
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| multiplexor |
| quote: | Originally posted by Billett
Any Questions?
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very cool, looks like a nice simple setup.
did i miss the pics? If you haven't posted any yet, please do post pics of your setup :) |
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| thecrumbum |
I'm a lazy DIY'er. I simply want to buy and LCD pad and slap it onto an overhead for cheap video. My question is: There are thousands of cheap projectors on ebay, but I'd like one that utilizes metal halide lighting. Could anyone provide any additional make/models that use MH lighting? thanks
So far:
Elmo HP 305A
Osram HMI |
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| Mystircal333 |
Please Billett post a pic of you setup and the projected image possible. I would really like to know more about what kind of result you are getting. I really want to know if the 400w MH really imporve the image quality then my 250wMH.
Or you could just describe the quality of projected image. Like if you are able to see all the detail in a dark scene from a movie. Was it able to project all the color shade property (especially a dark grey color in a dark scene). Mine was really horrible (it could just be my setup or the bulb). |
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| rbraithwaite |
Does anyone know if it's safe to put a dimmer switch between the mains cable and the ballast of a 400w MH lamp. Just wondered if I did this that I might affect the volts, amps, etc. going to the lamp?
Thanks in advance, Richard |
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| slize |
after several failures i decided to spend MORE than 200$ for my diy projector, because until now, with all the failures, I already have spent about 300$ and nothing but experience came out:mad:.
So I decided to built a projector for the half of the price of a new one (the cheapest on the market is 1800$ with a replacement bulb for 250$). :xeye: So my limit is 900$
I bought:
500W halogen bulb (4.99$) (10000 lumens)
15" Belinea (Max Data) 101515 TFT Monitor 1024x768 dots TCO99(230$ on ebay)
a PC only for the projector: CPU 700MhZ (AMD Duron)+256 SDRAM+tv capture card(typhoon)+5.1Soundcard(with spdif out; typhoon)+Seagate 40GB(very silent HDD)+Creative CD-R(with Remote Control)...all in all 330$
a lamp for the 500W bulb with dimmer (8.99$ on ebay)
an overhead projector; bulb didn't work but i just needed the lens and the fresnel lens (30$ on ebay)
two fans (20$)
all costs 623,98$+projection wall (25$) ===> 650$
:o Call me crazy but I think it is worth it. My projector costs less than the half of a new projector and has a resolution of 800x600 and a replacement bulb for 4.99$ and a picture of 2.5m in a darkened room. If you buy a used projector on ebay for that money you never know how long it will work or the bulb will work. And a new bulb costs half of the projector. If something is damaged i can replace it by myself and i do not need expensive services. :)
I put some of my experiences in this "BIG" projector:
(the projector is not big at all, its measurements are like a 17" CRT Monitor; and the PC stands on the floor)
- first of all: a PC TFT works very well, you cannot use the whole image because of the controllers in the back of the panel but i use 2/3 in my tests so i guess i have a resolution of about 800x600... (you have to put everything away behind the panel)
- important: no wood, plastic or anything else than metal to sourround the bulb, to build the case for the bulb. I used aluminium...
- to avoid the heat comming to the panel I use two glasses (1cm thick) then the fresnel lens from the ohp and then another glass (0.5cm thick). I use the fans to put out the heat of the case, because the lamp would bake itself in it. one fan (near the bottom) brings new cold air in, the other brings hot air out (hot air goes up so the 2nd is higher than the first fan)
____________________________________
bulb/glass/glass/fresnel lens /glass /tft panel
___/____/____/_________ /_____/_______
The rest is set up like a normal panel-on-ohp construction(there are many in this forum), but smaller and more quite and with a better picture.
- I use Dscaler for the inputs through the capture card (DVD, VHS, TV, PC...) which is outputted on the panel. i use power-dvd for div-x movies, vcd, svcd etc...
The tests worked very well; i had a good picture, a good picture size in a darkened room, now I just have to put everything together and hopefully it will be finished in about 3 to 4 weeks:rolleyes:. then i will post some pics.
Andy
P.S.: I know my English is very bad :) , so if there are any questions I'll try to answer them as good as possible |
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| prjctr_builder |
the previous post sounded to me like it was written about 2 years ago, when we knew nothing about projection....
my point is... though we did have some progress with learning a thing or two about projection, and some people even had pretty good results, most of us never applied new concepts to their projects. Many people told us which way not to go, but still everyone keeps trying their luck. to me, this forum seems like a closed circle that has no beginning, and seemingly no end as well.
:( :( :( :( :( :( :( |
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| verbose mustafa |
| quote: | Originally posted by prjctr_builder
the previous post sounded to me like it was written about 2 years ago, when we knew nothing about projection....
my point is... though we did have some progress with learning a thing or two about projection, and some people even had pretty good results, most of us never applied new concepts to their projects. Many people told us which way not to go, but still everyone keeps trying their luck. to me, this forum seems like a closed circle that has no beginning, and seemingly no end as well.
:( :( :( :( :( :( :( |
A agree with you. Im kind of tired of seeing everyone use an OHP and an lcd pannel. In my opinion, that is no way to go if you want to make an lcd projector. There are so many other ways to go, and people still flock to the ohp setup. Why? I guess it is easy, but what is the fun in that? Mabey we should start a thread, "new ideas and concepts." |
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| verbose mustafa |
| quote: | Originally posted by rbraithwaite
Does anyone know if it's safe to put a dimmer switch between the mains cable and the ballast of a 400w MH lamp. Just wondered if I did this that I might affect the volts, amps, etc. going to the lamp?
Thanks in advance, Richard |
No offence, but you really need to look up the meanings of volts, amps etc. The whole idea of a dimmer switch is to limit or in your words "affect" the voltage to the light. So (unless your light will; not work on lower voltage which it probably will) there is nothing wrong with a dimmer switch. |
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| eebasist |
| Not going to work.......a dimmer doesnt affect voltage, and you'll most likely do one of two things....nothing at all, or fry your ballast |
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| Redevil |
Does anyone know if it's safe to put a dimmer switch between the mains cable and the ballast of a 400w MH lamp. Just wondered if I did this that I might affect the volts, amps, etc. going to the lamp?
Thanks in advance, Richard
A dimmer would not be effective at all.
Metal halides operate with constant voltage between an arc gap
filled with gas.
Going below the rated voltage will end up turning the bulb off.
All other lamps that produce light using filaments will be able to use a dimmer eg. Incandescent and halogens.
L8r |
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| remp |
From Redevil
A dimmer would not be effective at all.
Metal halides operate with constant voltage between an arc gap
filled with gas.
Going below the rated voltage will end up turning the bulb off.
Redevil is correct.
The ballast lamp fault condition sensor will turn the power off. It is possible to use a dimmer with a Metal Halide arc lamp and is done by people with aquariums to simulate various daylight conditions as in nature, but it is not a simple matter.
Search for aquarium lighting. |
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| slize |
| quote: | Originally posted by prjctr_builder
the previous post sounded to me like it was written about 2 years ago, when we knew nothing about projection....
my point is... though we did have some progress with learning a thing or two about projection, and some people even had pretty good results, most of us never applied new concepts to their projects. Many people told us which way not to go, but still everyone keeps trying their luck. to me, this forum seems like a closed circle that has no beginning, and seemingly no end as well.
:( :( :( :( :( :( :( |
If you think this is old, i didn't manage to explain exactly what i meant.
I am NOT using a regular tft panel for ohps which you can buy at ebay. It is a TFT MONITOR for PCs, that's the difference (better picture, response time <30ms and you can buy it everywhere). The fact is, if there aren't panels in a 2" format with 1024x768(or at least 800x600) pixels payable for us (about 3000$ plus controllers all in all over 4000$) we need a fresnel lense (the best and cheapest are from damaged ohps), otherwise you are not able to spread the light through such a big screen (over 10"). And in my opinion a MH bulb is not needed because the installation costs and the price for one bulb(40$) are too high. My bulb only costs 4.99$... The NEW thing on it is the cooling of the lamp. Because i can use a 500W bulb without a fan which makes noise like an airplane and the panel is not damaged because there comes absolutely no heat to the panel... The second thing is; it is really hard to build an optic for the projection. and all the guys in here telling they are using a fresnel lens for the projected image itself are lying, because it is not possible. Physic tells you will never have a sharp picture with only one lense, you need at least 2; and real good pictures are only available with three lens optics. ()-)(-!) <---- image of a 3lens optic like in ohps [convex-concave-plan convex] and why not using the one of your damaged ohp.....
So i think my way is a new concept because no one ever showed a finished result of his projector with a PC TFT Monitor and a REALLY cheap bulb, and i will in about one week...
By the way prjetr_builder do you have a new concept??? or are you still using your ohp setup??:rolleyes: |
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| remp |
Slize
Please refrain from using the word lying. You can still make your point by better choice of words not so abrasive.
For example you could say "People using a single lens may experience slight bluring of the colours which can be improved by using two or more lens.
I have a 3M 1705 OHP which uses a single lens and I have examined the image carefully and can find no objectionable colour blurring at all. And every part is well focussed.
Technically you are correct. Practically is a different matter. |
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| slize |
:bigeyes:
yap you're right. i apologize if it sounds agressive but my english is very bad. I did not mean lying, i just meant they do not say the truth ;-)
The first point is: I said single lens, but what i meant was fresnel lens. It is not possible to have a 99% sharp picture with a single lens (except those from ohps). Your single lens is also possible because it is from a ohp just like mine... and pictr_builder says ohp is no good idea.
The second point is: it is important to have a perfect combination of the focuses of the fresenel lens and the optic for the image projection. In your case it fits, because you use an ohp. But others who try to combine two different types of lenses won't get a good result; at least i didn't see any in this forum yet. And two fresnel lenses (one for light spreading one for projection) won't work at all... that's a fact |
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| Mystique |
I am new to posting to this forum but am not new to reading the forum. I've been around for a about 6months reading everyones post. Only reason I have not put my 2cents in is because I did not have a complete working lcd projector and didnt think it would be wise to post ideas on somthing i dont even have.
I will agree that using a 500watt halogen bulb might not be up to par......but whats wrong with using a 15inch lcd panel for a computer. The only bad thing I can see about going this route is the project case will be much bigger and you will also have to have a computer to use the monitor. It seems to me that most people on this forum are talking about SIZE....everyones talking about making thier projector smaller...using smaller lcd's. I dont have a problem with smaller size either.....i think a small lcd projector would be very practical. Slize on the other hand is going for quality, minus the 500watt halogen, and you guys are knockin him for it, saying that his post seems 2years old.....I've looked all over the post and have yet to find someone acctually saying they used a 15inch lcd monitor. Just post from people saying they know a guy/heard of a guy that used a ViewSonic VG 150. I think Slize idea is a great one if you want a big picture with nice quality....lets face it once you go past 40inches on the 5inch lcd the image gets pretty crapy. From what im reading unless you have $4000 to buy a 1inch super lcd on crack there is no way you are going to go bigger then 40inches with a 5inch lcd with nice quality. Saying that I hope that some of people that have been here in this forum from the begining of time will comment on why they think using a 15inch lcd is bad/good
I've also found a solution for converting the Kelvin of your lightsource to 5500k. Its a gel thats used in filming studios to put over halogen lights....but works the same on metal halides. It can be found here for 6.95 for a 20"x 24" its called Roscolux Tungsten Conversion Filters get the Full Blue. http://64.213.162.194/catalog/ws200...rs-theater.html
I use mine on a 400watt metalhalide with 4100k Why convert a 400watt metalhalide you ask. The main reason being that 5500k-6000k is ideal for projecting. The other is because as many of you know the metal halide is greatly known for for its fluctuation of Kelvin threw hours of use, by using this filter you have a constant output of 5500k. AND YES some lumens are lost in the process of going threw the filter. I asked that guy at Full compass how much light is lost on average threw the filter and he says no more the 5-10% but if you look at the data for a while i think you'll find just as I have that the pro's outway the con's. I hope my first 2cents has helped the DIYLCD comunity look forward to replies....both good and bad. |
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| Redevil |
Mystique
Good job on the filter research.
I need a boost from 4100K to 5500K.
I did not see it there or I may be blind.
5500K would be ideal, and cheap.
Would produce a much better picture as far as color.
As for the 15" LCD, to hard to find converter board for some.
And to hard to find a cheap fresenel that would cover it.
But if you use a overhead projector that has a lare staging area,
that would be the way.
Nothing wrong with the 15" LCD if you can find the stuff for it.
And if you do, then you got yourself a HDTV projector.
My OHP LCD can handle 1024X768.
My PC games look excellent.
TV image at 640X480 (looks good at 95" Diag)
Good luck, good job
Keep me posted about the filter
Later |
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| Myren |
Hello all,
Long time no see.
I havent gotten much actual progress done in a while. Things have ground to a standstill as school consumes my pathetic life. Quite irritating really.
Does anyone know a place where I can get weird and exotic ribbon cables? I've got a couple LCD's (mostly VG150's) with ripped ribbon cables that I'd like to use again. I just need to find someplace to get these weirdo ribbon cables (with strange end connectors.... photo "soon"). I'm still crying, but for now I'm just glad that the replaceable ribbon cable broke, and not the one coming off the lcd.
Sadly the best plan I've thought of for the future is casting my own ellipsoidal reflectors. Electroforming has proved too hard to setup as a hobbiest operation, and doesnt let me do fun things like add waterblocks to the reflector. So I'm starting my own little foundry, in my backyard. After I get a couple of these things cast, I'm going to have to figure out some way to get vacuum deposition hot or cold mirroring (cant remember which.... the one that lets heat go through, but bounces light).
With that and some decent waterflow, I should be ready for 400 watts of <i>completely and totally silent</i> sweet metal halide loving. goodbye fans!
if all goes well, I'll make a HUGE ******* reflector for the 1000 watt metal halides I've got lying around. these bulbs are *******g gigantic. over a foot long, seven inches in diameter. i'll probably end up having to make the damned reflector alone about three feet long just to fit the damned bulbs in. in the end, it'll be something vaguely taller than your industrial sized mini-fridge, but should give imax a run for the money. 150,000 lumens. what the hell do you do with that much light? honestly? since it going to have to be a insultingly long reflector, it'll get 93% - 95% optical efficiency. thats a recoculous amount of light. great scot.
then i "just" need to scrounge up a couple grand for the bigass 24 inch LCD to go with it. i wish multiple display technology were further up to par, i'd much rather just have a two by three array of 400watt 1280x1024's, for the same price, but the righteous computing hacks required to actually do anything besides basic computing (ie videos, video games, movies, et all) are.... well beyond my realm of knowledge, and i suspect far beyond the abilities of modern desktop computing.
Most of all, I need to get off my *** and move. I havent dont jack or **** really since the last time i posted here, aside from assembling a couple projectors for myself and friends. I've got the molding sand, although I'm thinking of switching to some sort of plaster/cermaic casting, for longevity issues. its time to move on though.
Myren |
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| Supporter |
Wow... I'm a newbie first off, but I am a quick study. I've been browsing this forum for the past few months dreaming of making myself a projector (Some of the people here at work think I'm crazy) anyway, I've never been a part of a forum/newsgroup before, but I HAVE done lots of DIY projects. I would just like to know if there's anything special I should know about before I start making a PJ...
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. I am a purist when it comes to DIY. I'm not interested in making an OHP/LCD combo. I want to make a box with a big honkin' light and do it in the $500 price range. I hope to become an important part of your community. :wave2: |
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| zardoz |
Hi: I've been in the forum for a little while and have read extensively on your setup. It's very much like the one I am building, although I'm going with the (too many dollars ~L~) laptop screen and controller card.
My card is on the way from Taiwan, and the panel is coming from the US...waiting for parts is the story of my life. I'd like you to take a look at a PCX I found and get your opinion on the lens. It's a 7-1/2” DIAM BY 20” FL PCX LENS - New This Week!
Item No.: L2152 from surplus shed. I'd also appreciate your advice on what lens to buy for next to my 400 MH lamp.
I was one of the missinformed folks that thought an old CRT lens would be helpfull to this project (untill I spent most of last night reading back posts that is). Fortuneately I didnt pay anything for the JBL PJ it was a DOA on it's way to the dump when I grabbed it (hehe also got a working Novabeam 1A from the guy).
Any assistance in my new nightmare....... "optics" would be great.
zardoz |
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| Redevil |
zardoz
At that price, worth a shot.
Get two of them.
Well worth project.
A bar owner that I know spent $7,000.00 for his projector.
It has two bulbs. Cost him $750.00 for each bulb for him to get back up.
My cost for bulb replacement $26.00.
I have all kind of people coming over to look at it.
They say its great.
My friend bought a 53 inch rear projection TV.
And is bringing or gona tell them to come and get it back because
the picture is not that great for the price he paid.
Good Luck
By the way, the optics must, I mean must be perfectly aligned.
L8r |
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| zardoz |
If I recall you are running a 14 inch screen? and are getting great result with your 6 inch/14fl PCX. Do you know if the 7.5 inch/20fl is going to make my PJ a "longer or shorter" overall box (dimensionally speaking) I can handle the 10 feet to the screen distance now.. but in the near future intend to move it into a spot where I can get about 18 or 20 feet from the screen. Screen to be determined, currently I'm watching the Novabeam CRT on a bed sheet LOL. But in the new location I am thinking of really testing myself and building a Torus screen... If my new hobby doesnt kill me the wife will for sure!
zardoz |
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| Redevil |
Zardoz
My LCD is 10" Diag.
Yes this lens will make your PJ box longer.
As far as the picture size, I would not know.
For me it was a try it till I get it right (one year later).
I will tell you one thing, a 4 1/2" PCX lens with FL of 20" at ten feet produced an image of about 1/2 the size.
Therefore this is maybe what you may be looking for in the future to get that 18 or 20 feet.
If I where you I would get the 7 1/2 for the bulb side for sure, another for the objective and a 4 1/2 as an extra to see which one would work for you.
The diagram that I have shown is a basic configuration.
When you get to that point make a post on this site and I will
tell you a couple of other things that will fine tune your image.
L8r |
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| ywh |
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| exipnos |
ywh
Is that a picture from the results of your projector? It looks great! Congratulations. Tell us more about your setup.
Exipnos. |
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