| loovet |
How about this Water Cooler for an Aleph???
together with one of these
Please give me your opinion.
/loovet |
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| Netlist |
This has been discussed for the Zen amp.
What is "one of these"?
/Hugo :) |
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| peranders |
If you want to use this cooler AND don't want a huge water bill, you must cool the water somehow = heatsinks or radiator plus pump.
Water cooling is good if you must remove lot's of heat to some other place. |
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| azira |
My oppinion. What exactly is YOUR goal? If it's for looks, then nothing beats that passive radiator you have linked to. Add some blue dye to the water for a complete package.
But in my book, how to save a few $$ is usually what I aim for. If I am going to consider a water cooler it's because it'll save me over the cost of the huge heatsink. I think right now most CPU systems won't. There are probably some DIY varients that might however.
--
Danny |
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| Jason Hubbard |
I have a large heat exchanger (the outside unit from a commercial air-con system) that will easily shift many kilowatts of heat, could be ideal for that Aleph 1.2 triamp project!
It is available FREE to anybody who can take it away! (i am in south east England). It's too good to throw away, but i can't hoard it any loger as i need the space. |
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| kilowattski |
| I have had the vision of using a computer water cooler to augment a standard passive heatsink. Generally, the computer water cooler can not cool enough by itself but what if we took a heat exchanger and bolted to a standard heat sink? Using a conventional cpu water cooling pump and radiator, it may be a good combination. |
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| akira |
I was also playing with the idea of watercooling my SOZ. There is only one problem. To use the normal pump like those used in aquariums, the water temperature should not exceed 35C. This is quite difficult to hold if the MOSFETS are getting hot (50C). The computer WC are designed to dissipate 130W ...
You can use another pump ... one that can handle a higher temperature. if you can find one, then it s fine. Another detail is that the dissipator must be of the same metal than the waterblock otherwise you get oxydoreduction which is a chemical reaction that will gradually destroy your waterblock (ex: Waterblock in copper and dissipator in aluminium). |
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| Jason Hubbard |
I have watercooled a few computer projects - for me the best pump was a spare pump from the heating system for the house. This handles very high termperatures and will run quietly forever without problems.
To get around the problem of reactions between the various metals in the system and the water (and to prevent growths in the water) simply add anti-freeze. |
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| akira |
| better use 100 % antifreeze if you have bothe copper and aluminium in the system .... |
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| GRollins |
Water cooling is easy and very efficient. I started a thread on this once upon a time reporting on a water cooled Aleph 2 I'd built. I later added another pair of Aleph 2s to the same water cooling system. The temperature at the devices is somewhere around 105 degrees F, if I recall correctly. Until you've tried it, you'll have trouble believing how much heat you can remove. It's also cheap. The only downside really is that the amps are no longer portable in the sense that air cooled ones are.
Grey |
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| falcott |
| I wonder how a passive system would work, like the "thermo-syphon" cooling system in the Model T Ford (and old stationary engines). I think it runs a little hotter than a pump system, but would it cool well enough? And how could we estimate the volume of water needed, and/or the surface area of the radiator? |
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| imix500 |
| Do you guys know of a good source for those large surface area "water blocks"? I havn't had much luck locating surplus, and I bet they're pricey new. |
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| akira |
| Well, the cheapest way to go is to get some pieces of copper or aluminium, drill several holes and solder tubes on it. Electronic suppliers are selling large waterblock for a very high price and they won t be better than a diy WB. |
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| GRollins |
I believe you'll find that my way is cheaper if you plan to use more than one or two devices.
Grey |
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| alaskanaudio |
I have also been thinking about water-cooling around for a while. With two class A amplifiers running that suck down 600 watts of AC power each it does not take long to make a listening room a little to warm for comfort, even in winter here. As a result I have seriously thought about designing a class AB amps, or perhaps even trying my hand at a class D. Perhaps doing this will make me more environmentally friendly.
I go along with Grey’s suggestion that soldering copper tubes to the back of a nice thick copper plate is the best way to go. I would use soft metal tubes that could be bent into 180-degree bends to zigzag back and forth on the rear of the plate. A proper bending tool would need to be made and used to keep the tube from collapsing when being bent.
Soldering the tubes to the back of the metal plate can easily be done on a stove in the kitchen if nothing else is available. I have seen this done in the past for high power RF amplifiers and it does indeed work very well. There would likely have to be two heat exchangers built, one for the work bench and the other for the listening room. Water cooled heatsinks would allow the amplifiers to fit into a much smaller enclosure.
Johannes |
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| kilowattski |
| Why not get a pair of conventional heatsinks and two 6" by 6" copper blocks. Drill two holes lenghtwise in the copper block about 4 inches apart. The hole size should be slightly larger than the diameter of copper tubing youn plan to use. Take a length and make a 4" loop. Solder the loop to one end of the copper block and two straight tubes to the other end. Solder a couple of fittings to the other end of the straight tubes. Put some thermal goo on the copper block and bolt it to your heatsink. Mount the block to your heatsink. Mount your transistors to the copper block. If I am correct the block will act as a heat spreader for the conventional heatsink and also as a watercooled heatsink itself. Because of the combination of the two heatsinks the copper water cooler you just built would not have to work as hard and one of those new passive radiators for computer water cooling could be used. It's noiseless, efficient and easy to implement. See diagram below. |
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| GRollins |
Although putting a serpentine copper pipe along the back of a copper plate would work wonders, I've yet to outstrip the heat-carrying capability of ordinary 1/2" copper pipe soldered to the thin edge of a 1" x 1/4" copper bar, thus: --O The devices mount to the wide side of the copper bar. Cheap, easy, efficient, and if you polish the copper nicely it looks pretty sexy.
I'm not saying that all these high fiddle-factor ideas won't work--it's just that you can get excellent results with a whole lot less effort. Water cooled systems are so effective it'll scare you.
Grey |
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| highbias |
"A proper bending tool would need to be made and used to keep the tube from collapsing when being bent."
That can easily be accomplished by filling the copper tubing with low melting point Bismuth metals of the type used in sprinkler heads. After you've filled the tubing with the special metal and made the bend just heat up the tubing to recover the metal and use it to full the next pipe then bend and so on down the line. This way no bender is needed, just a simple jig to keep them all the same. I used this method once when I built a scale model steam locomotive and it works beautifully!! The low melting point metals are available from Small Parts Inc in Miami.
I am still contemplating doing what Kilowattski mentioned except I am not planning on soldering tubing into my copper plate. I will just drill and tap the holes for small copper fittings that will be silver soldered to make them leak tight. This way simple flexible tubing can be used to join the cooling system together. Ia lso feelt hat with water being in direct contact with the copper plate will increase the efficiency quite a bit.
Mark |
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| Jonathan Bright |
I've enjoyed this thread and have been thinking along similar lines for my JLH Class-A. But another thought is to look at something other than water for the transfer medium. I had not realised that liquids differed in their thermal characteristics until I read a book by Phil Irvine the great bike/car engine designer. He makes the point that oil absorbs thermal energy more quickly than water but also dissipates it more slowly. (This is probably why people poured boiling oil on their opponents when their castle was being attacted!) For our purposes this makes oil quite attractive. The thermal properties mean that it is better than water at drawing heat away from the relatively small confines of the area around the semi-conductor. On the other hand the slower dissipation rate will not be a great handicap. Most of us will be able to make the liquid to air heat exchanger as big as we like. There will not usually be space restrictions on a set up where the radiator is mounted outside the house and old car radiators are cheap etc.
Now I haven't done any further research on this but I have a couple of questions I wanted to chase up. One: the viscosity of oil may mean that a motor can't pump as much fluid through the pipes when compared to water. This reduced flow rate may negate some of the thermal advantage...... although the flow should improve as the system warms up the oil. I am guessing that it won't have corrosive problems and a gallon of olive oil could look attractive too.
Secondly, what does it sound like? What I'm really waiting for is for someone to do an A/B test and announce that the oil based design had smoother highs than the water cooled system! |
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| kilowattski |
| Don't think for one minute they won't either. |
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| Jonathan Bright |
| With, perhaps, both types having a"fluid" quality in the midrange. |
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| imix500 |
| I'm sure, as long as you have a frikin' $300 power cable on the pump. :D |
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| Brett |
| quote: | Originally posted by Jonathan Bright
For our purposes this makes oil quite attractive. The thermal properties mean that it is better than water at drawing heat away from the relatively small confines of the area around the semi-conductor. On the other hand the slower dissipation rate will not be a great handicap. |
From my sitting on the fence, pragmatist engineer POV, I fail to see why it's better, for the simple reason that the pump, fittings and heat exchanger (car radiator) are cheap, easily obtained and more than adequate for the task. Even with several Alephs a decent size radiator, sited well will dissipate more than enough heat. There is always a breeze up the side passageway of my house, which is where I'd place the radiator if I were going to do this (nearly did myself, but tubes sound better).
If you want to pick up more heat in the assembly with the semi's mounted on it, simply use a angled entry fitting, use a flange plate internally with a number of holes drilled in it, zigzag the tubing, or place a spring in the straight sections to make the water flow in there more turbulent to improve the heat transfer. Cheap, simple, not fancy, last forever. And as the absolute temperature in any well thought out system should be quite low, there are a lot of plastic fittings and adaptors that will allow you to use a 50/50 water/ethyl glycol mix and prevent oxydoreduction.
Grey, alaskanaudio, akira and Brian Donaldson have given a lot of good suggestions on how to do it. Another tip for bending the tube, plug the ends with a bit of scrap pine, fill the tube with fine sand and bend it around an object of approximately the correct radius. I've built car exhausts this way (with a bit of applied heat from an oxy) and everyone who saw them thought they'd been made with a mandrel. |
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| GRollins |
I certainly have no problem with trying to improve something that needs it, but until you try water cooling and discover for yourself just how effective it is, I don't see the point to all these embellishments.
I'm sure that some of them would look cool, though.
You want to beat your head against the wall? Bend your will against the portability issue. Other than that, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Grey |
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| imix500 |
| It certainly works well in my large frame lasers. The head and the power supply generate about 15 kW of heat and a few gallons of water a minute through 2 large "water blocks" keeps it nice and cool. |
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| lumanauw |
Are the transistors need tobe cold? I remember Mr.Pass said that mosfets likes it "HOT". So if it is a mosfet amplifier, class A (runs hot), and we use very effective cooling device, like water cooling, fans and radiator, will it change the sound?
I have encountered a commercial power amp that uses very thick aluminum block (not heatsink)+heatsink. I wonder if it is for adding weight or what.
Then I realize that the massive metal block is there to maintain "Thermal Inertia", so the temperature will be very stable.
There is a thread somewhere about "Thermal Memory Effect/Peufeu website". I know that this "thermal inertia" is opposite than that "thermal memory".
But which is more make sense and which is hoax? |
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| SGregory |
I suppose that if there is a diffin sound quality between the type of cooling fluid, the direction of flow would also be important.?
Scott |
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| Brian Donaldson |
| Don't even consider using anything less than pure teflon tubing and silver hose clamps |
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| E. Pardaans |
You can even do without the waterpump if the waterpipes are sufficiently large enough.
Warm water is lighter then cold water, so if you can place the radiator in the top of your house or outside you can use this characteristic of water for natural circulation.
you should place your amplifier as low as possible, and the pipes of the warm section of the sink should go straight up (a few decimeters horizontal will not harm if the diameter of the pipe is large enough).
If the amplifier warms up the water warms up allso.
This way the warm water will be lighter then the cold water and starts to flow to the top of the sink.
The cold water will take the place of the warm water, and so the natural circulation starts.
This is an old technique used in old central heating systems.
Edwin |
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| Brian Donaldson |
| it's also used in old tractors |
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| GRollins |
I think you'll find that heating systems and tractor engines are somewhat more robust than the average semiconductor...
Grey |
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| E. Pardaans |
Grey,
You are right about the robustness of heatingsystems and tractors, but if your radiator is big enough and is capable to create a difference of more then 5 degrees celcius between the cold and warm waterpipes there will be no problem.
If the difference in temperature between the cold and warm pipes are bigger, the water will flow faster.
I agree it is much easier to implement a pump in the system
Natural circulation must be well calculated and therefore are more difficult to implement.
Edwin |
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| WorkingAtHome |
I started a thread about this in the solid state forum, but since I am now planning on building a water cooled Aleph30 (possible 5 channel, depending on how well the water cooling works out), I'll jump on this thread.
I just bought a piece of copper 1/4" x 4" x 36" ($30) that I will chop up and use GRollins' method for the heatsink/spreader (1/2" copper pipe soldered to a 1" copper plate).
I will be using about 6' of copper/aluminum baseboard pipe for the radiator. This will be 6 - 1' pieces arranged in two layers of 3, all linked by 3/4" pipe fittings (the radiator pipe is 3/4"). The change from 1/2 to 3/4 should slow the flow rate while the water is disapating heat, then speed back up a bit as it reenters the 1/2 pipe. The pump and radiator will be mounted in a second case (that looks like my amp case hopefully), with fully vented top and bottom panels to allow for convection through the radiator.
For the pump, my brother asked his "pump guy" what to use. He did a quick analysis of the design volume and heat characteristics and came back with the Iwaki Walchem WMD-15RT. It's a magnetic drive pump, meaning that the impeller is driven magnetically by the motor, so there are no seals that can leak. Supposedly very very quiet. It has the proper flow, head and heat resistance to last a long, long time. My brother can get one for $80USD, but that's a good deal. Need to think about it as it's more than I wanted to spend.
A few other comments on other posts I saw:
Using straight anitfreeze is a really bad idea. Antifreeze is not a very good coolant. It is added to cars primarily to keep the water in the cooling system from freezing. It also has some additives to prevent corrosion. If you add straight antifreeze to your car with no water, your car will overheat. Ideal mixture is said to be 50/50. My system will be copper/poly (no aluminum contact) so I will use straight water. Race cars use straight water, then empty it out after each race.
Water is a better cooling medium for this type of cooling project. Oil is better if temps will exceed the boiling point of water. Oil is better in open systems, where pressure is not such a big deal. Remember, oil expands when heated. Water contracts when heated, until it boils, then it expands a lot. In a sealed low temp system, water is the way to go. The fact that oil disappates heat more slowly will be a problem unless you have active cooling on your radiator, or a really really big radiator. Similar to using cast iron for a heat sink. It takes a long time to heat up its large mass, but stays hot for a long time. I think we want this to cool very quickly. Machinists use oil for cooling metal during machining, but it's a full-loss system, constantly pumping fresh cool oil. |
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| E. Pardaans |
WorkingAtHome,
You are not correct about water contracting when heated.
Water has its highest density at 4 degrees celcius.
When water is heated above, and cooled below this temperature it will expand.
If your water cooled system contains a large amount of water the pressure in the system will rise.
A solution to this is a damper ( i don't know the correct word) used in watersystems to absorb the expanded water.
Edwin |
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| WorkingAtHome |
Ah, thanks, you are correct.
I am thinking of a small air damper, which is basically a little capped piece of pipe connected to a T and sticking striaght up. Air in that piece of pipe absorbs the expanding water volume. Pretty simple, as my system will not have too much volume. |
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| E. Pardaans |
Yes this will work perfectly, and does not wear like a damper with a rubber membrane.
Edwin. |
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| E. Pardaans |
WorkingAtHome.
If i understand it correctly you will make your own radiator out of tubes.
You have to consider that tubes has verry little surface area.
If you make your radiator out of tubes he must be verry big.
I advise you to search for an old airconditioner and use its radiator, or an old waterchilled cooler used in offices like i found recently.
The last one has a fan to suck air thrue the radiator, and can dissipate a lot of heat.
Maybe you can do without a fan with the above mentioned radiators if the case which houses the radiator is high enough.
This way you create a chimney with more volume of warm air.
And becouse of the mass differences between warm and cold air the air will flow faster thrue the radiator.
Hey this sounds again like natural circulation.:D
Another thing you have to think about is the speed of water thru the tubes.
In drinkingwater systems with a central boiler, the warm watersystem has a circulation system with pump.
The speed of water thrue this system is not allowed to go beyond 0.7 meters per second maximum, preferably 0.5 meters per second.
If the speed of water goes beyond this point the tubes will wear becouse of erosion.
In our amplifiers this may be a lesser problem as they are not working 24 ours a day.
Edwin |
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| Variac |
You want pumps?
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm...18&category=176
The submersible fountain pumps are cheap (12.95) and you can just place them in your resivior container. They are made for continuous use in fountains. Just put in an overheat switch in your amp in case whatever pump you use fails. |
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| E. Pardaans |
The cooling capacity of water all depends on temperature difference between the warm and cold tubes and flow.
For a standard Aleph 2 = 600 Watt, and a temperature difference of 5 degrees celcius you need aproximately 105 liters/our.
If the temperature difference doubles, the needed amount of water halves.
As you can see a little amount of water is needed to cool a lot of heat.
The real problem is to cool the heated water with the radiator.
You need a really large surface area, or a high airflow.
Edwin |
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| WorkingAtHome |
Hi Edwin-
I am actualy using baseboard pipe, which is 3/4" copper pipe with aluminum fins spaced about every 5mm (see pic). These are used for room heat, and are designed for convection. If you look at the pic, you will see that the sides of the fins are bent into one another, forming a chimney between each fin. They are about 5-6cm square. I plan on buying a 6' piece (or so) of this and cutting up to form a radiator about 18cm (3 rows) x 12cm (2 rows) x 30cm (about 1 ft).
BTW: In the pic, ignore the top pipe: it is a return pipe. I am refering to just the bottom pipe with the fins.
Variac-
The fishtank pumps might work, but they are diaphram pumps generally, and not very quiet. I may use one, as $80 is a bit much, but the iWaki is a different class of pump all together. One of its most common uses is by the PCBoard industry to pump heated etchant. It cannot leak (unless the case wears through) as there are no seals between the impeller and the motor. I would be the last pump I would ever buy for such an application. |
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| Variac |
Those aren't fishtank pumps but fountain pumps. I doesn't matter if they leak out, as they are in the water tank. Noise- probably some noise, I'd agree..
Of course the pump you are tormented by sounds wonderful- I just thought that the $12 one might get you started to see how the system works for you. Everything else is available almost free!
PS: Were do you buy just the baseboard pipe? |
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| WorkingAtHome |
| quote: | | PS: Were do you buy just the baseboard pipe? |
Good question. I have been looking around. All I can get right now would be a piece of baseboard with the sheet metal baseboard. Pretty expensive. I'll post if I find a source.
BTW: the system I am thinking about will be sealed with no tank. |
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| WorkingAtHome |
Oh, and I will probably add a fan with thermal switch for emergency cooling. I figure if it gets that hot, the music will probably be loud enough that I won;t hear it. It can be a pretty lowspeed fan though.
Now just need a circuit for that. |
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| Variac |
| Clearly the baseboard pipe is best found scavanged at a reclycling store or fronm an old building- Maybe one could call a heating contractor. Leaving it in the housing might actually be attractive enough to have in your room e- possibly mounted as a baseboard.....IMHO the fun of this approach is scavanging stuff, but hightech is :cool: too |
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| E. Pardaans |
The baseboard pipe is effective in dissipating heat indeed, but i have to advise against your idea of stacking them on top of eachother.
Three rows next to eachother is a good idea, but dont put another three rows on top of that.
If you do so the efficiency of the total radiator will drop aproximately 30% due to the resistance between the fins.
It is better to make the radiator longer 18cm (3 rows) 1 row high and 60cm long.
This way you can get the maximum capacity out of the baseboard.
Another way of increasing efficiency is to build a case around the baseboard.
Normally the case around these baseboards are aproximately 20cm high.
If you make the height of the case 100cm or more you create a chimney which increases the capacity of the baseboard by two or more.
It is all about creating a weight difference between the cold and warm air just like natural circulation with watersystems.
The higher the chimney the higher the airflow.
Naturally things will ballance out once reached a certain point.
Maybe you can do without fans.
These systems will always work, no things to fail.
Give it a try with an eye on the thermometer.
If it doesnt work well enough you can install fans anyway.
Remember it takes a little water to cool 600Watt but it takes a lot of air to cool the same amount of heat.
End of story is the chimney must be big, but hey were talking about class A here.
Edwin. |
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| WorkingAtHome |
| I was thinking about your chimney dimentions... I had been planning on making a second amp case to house the radiator and pump, but maybe I should make a speaker enclosure to match my Klipsch's (:))... that's would be a big enough chimney! |
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| E. Pardaans |
Dont be put off by my post.
It is difficult to estimate the capacity of your radiator.
It it possible it will work verry well with a chimney of 20cm heigh.
It is even possible it will work as you first mentioned by mounting them on top of eachother, but you lose 30% this way.
If the dimentions of the case are a problem you could make a 20cm heigh case of cheap materials just for testing.
If the capacity isn't high enough you can make the case higher, or install fans (noise).
Maybe you can place the radiator in another room.
You must keep in mind that the capacity is less in the summer so it must be designed for these higher environment temperatures.
Edwin |
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| WorkingAtHome |
Yeah, I was only joking around. I was thinking of building the whole thing, then using a dummy load resistor as a heat source (so the dissapation is a known quantity), then running the system to see how well it handles different power levels.
Thanks for all the advice! |
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| E. Pardaans |
I have made a little calculation with estimated temperatures to give you the idea of the needed amount of air.
Environment temperature 35 degrees celcius (worst case).
Estimated temperature of air after passed thrue the radiator 45 degrees celcius.
Heat to dissipate 600 Watt.
Mass of air by 45 degrees 1.11kg/m3.
Mass of air by 35 degrees 1.14kg/m3
Specific heat of air 1000J/kg.K
600/(1000*(45-35))=0.06kg/second.
(0.06/1.11)*3600=195m3/h.
Edwin |
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| E. Pardaans |
Good luck on your system.
I am verry curious how things will work out as i am working on the same kind of system but without a waterpump.
Edwin |
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| E. Pardaans |
Hi all,
After the faillure of making a heatsink out of sheets and bars of copper i did make the change to watercooling.
This idea was born after a lot of reading on this forum especially the post from Grey who did this before.
I did make the heatsink from copper tubings with copper bars solderd on them just like Grey did.
The tubes are connected with copper fittings.
The heatsink is big becouse it is designed for natural circulation but i think i will be forced do ditch this idea (not enough space to house the tubes), and go for a pump driven system.
I like to thank you all for your inspiring ideas.
Edwin |
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| GRollins |
I mounted my copper bars edge-on to facilitate mounting the devices, but if you can tap those for the proper thread without puncturing the tubing you'll have better heat transfer due to more contact area.
Okay, you've got heat staining. Here's what I did: First, go to the hardware store and buy muriatic acid (aka dilute hydrochloric acid). Tell them you want the stuff they use to clean mortar off of bricks. That will take off the oxide and the red/blue stains. The downside is that it leaves the copper dull. The next step is to use 0000 steel wool to burnish the copper back to brightness. Depending on what sort of chemical copper cleaners you have access to, you might try them in place of either or both of these steps. Finally, when you get a nice, shiny glow on your copper, shoot it with a clear finish to keep it clean and untarnished. I used masking tape to keep the mounting surface from getting lacquer on it; I chose to accept a little dulling with age in that one area in order to increase heat transfer, although the thing is so effective I could probably have coated that surface as well.
I took a small, fine file and removed excess solder from the joints so that all you see is copper with a thin ring of silver where the solder is. It's purely cosmetic and labor intensive. You may not want to go to such lengths.
Keep an eye on the relative temperature of your four sets of devices. You've chosen a different layout than I did and you may find that you don't get equal water flow through each leg of the heat exchanger.
A word to the wise. I put my system together with clamps. It works, but it is a pain to disassemble and reassemble. The next time I break the system down, I'll probably install some sort of quick disconnect in order to make things easier. Something like car folks use to do their pressure lines--not garden hose, which will inevitably leak. If you do it now while your system is apart, you'll thank yourself later.
That said, it looks cool.
Grey |
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| E. Pardaans |
Grey,
I thank you for your advise.
The heatsink is not ready yet.
In order to mount the Fets, i will solder an copper bar on the already mounted bar.
This copper bar will have two thread rods on it so i can clamp the fets (see picture).
Furthermore the heatsink will be provided with a mountingplace for a thermal switch for overtemperature protection in case the natural circulation doesnt start or the pump fails.
The idea of polishing the copper has crossed my mind, and i think it is good looking too.
What kind of lacquer did you use to finish the copper?
About the equal water flow you could be right but ill have to try it in practice to see if it's a problem.
Edwin |
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| jacco vermeulen |
| quote: | Originally posted by GRollins
I'll probably install some sort of quick disconnect in order to make things easier. |
Braided hydraulic hoses with pressed-on quick release connectors, works great coupling my automatic tranny to its ATF cooler.
Used the same hoses for watercooling the diesel engine in my boat.
Edwin,
there's a company in "de Spaanse Polder" that presses the connectors on the hoses while you wait. Nice picture. |
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| Nordic |
| You can also get awesome chrome connectors from motorbike spares places.. I think it is used in some of the hoses on some bikes... |
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| quickshift |
It's really easy to make waterblocks.
I made one for my graphics card - just get a soft ally block, shape it to whatever size you need, mill out the channel for the water - make sure it's bigger than the diameter of the tube because the water shouldn't flow through too fast. Tap threads for threaded hose tails into the block, use a sheet of alumunium for the top (bottom) sealed with Sikaflex 921 or similar. Easy :) Maybe attach a copper sheet to the bottom of the waterblock if you are drawing heat from a small contact area.
I think you would need to use a peltier to enough variation in temperature for a decent flow of coolant - I haven't tried myself so I could be wrong. :)
Moped radiators are pretty cheap on ebay too :) |
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| GRollins |
We're having some really extreme network problems here, so the picture didn't come up--I'm lucky to have gotten the print portion of the page. The network guys are in and working on the problem, so hopefully things will get back to normal soon.
Granted, when I'm shooting a finish on a bass, I pull out the compressor and use a spray gun. Not for this. I just used a can of cheap stuff from the hardware store. A fairly light coat will do.
Now I get to press the "Submit Reply" button and see if this gets through.
Grey |
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