| rs1026 |
Hello everybody,
I joined this forum just today. I did not know that such a forum existed.
I am trying to build an amp using stk 4192 II IC( yeah quite outdated) that I managed to find.
I have two 4ohms 8'' woofers,
two 4 ohms tweeters
I wanted to know which mode of connection would be good
whether Bi-amping with a passive xover network or connecting the two woofers in series in one channel and tweeters on other channel or connecting all of them in tri mode etc
it would be of help if some one replies
Thanks |
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| Netlist |
Welcome to the forum, rs1026
As the 4192 only accepts 8 ohm I guess you will have a problem with the 4ohm speakers. Unless the 'speaker and network gurus' could help you out here ;)
/Hugo |
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| rs1026 |
| thanks Netlist, looks like I will have to think about this issue myself. No one responded with any ideas! |
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| B.I.G |
i think you are a little confused you only need a passive crossover ! then you put one woofer with one tweeter per channel so you have a stereo setup ... that is what you want right ?
you can use active crossover but you need 2 STK4192II http://www.sound.westhost.com/project09.htm here is a nice crossover .
The STK4192II if it is not FAKE (they are quite frequently) will have no problems with 4 ohm speakers as it is desinged to work with 4 and 8 ohm . I have used STK4192II with +/-35V rails delivering about 80-100W per channel with a 4 ohm load
:D |
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| rs1026 |
Thanks for the info. I think the stk 4192 chip that i have may be a fake one.Because the chip number has just been painted on the IC.I dont see any engravings so it may be fake.
Any ideas to verify if its fake or geniune?
As you mentioned BIG If I settle for a passive cross over then what about the load issue I mean I actually want the amp to see a 8ohm load instead of 4ohms.
Since 2 woofers are 4ohms each will it be good if I connect them in series then i can connect 2 tweeters in series for the other channel?This way I can ensure 8ohm load on each channel.
Thanks |
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| B.I.G |
you can put a picture of the ic on the forum and we may get to a conclusion(if it is fake or god ) .
the STK`s are all painted there are no engravings on them it is plain old paint .
you can test the quality of the ic by putting duck tape on the STK and pull it fast .... if the ic is fake then you will probabily have all the paint transfered on the duck tape . |
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| vacuumhead |
Hi,
at the back of the IC (metal plate), you should see the black lettering - painted marking the type of the IC. Here in South Africa they are widely available and work fine and are very cheap. Will work on 4 ohm, but PSU must be max. +- 35V. I never liked the bottom end of these amps when the volume gets a bit high. I am trying to make a DC servo for it, so if it works, I'll send the diagram. Jack |
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| bubu |
Look at the terminal side of the chip and you will se a green paint over or between the terminals. If the paint is applied at the whole chip lenght and not only at the terminal limits then you are dealing with a fake. They are made by Sanken and they work well, without noticeable distortions but you will have to drop the voltage to ~56V if you don't want the chip to burn. I actually have one "fake" STK (J4050C2K6 on the back and PMC D3 on the front) wich works well at 72V! Most DIY-ers burn them (fakes or not) because of the errors on their PCB's. I made that mistake too. I built the amp with a PCB taken from Internet. After I burned 3 chips I checked the PCB wich was erroneous, I took ExpressPCB and made my own PCB (wich you can find it around DIY STK forums) and as long as it was free of errors worked from the first start without blowing the chip. Use good quality components and it will work. Fake or not.
Good luck! |
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