| Peerless SLS 10" in ported, 30 ltr subwoofer - Click HERE for Original Thread |
| Bob_the_builder |
Hi Everyone!
I planned to build a subwoofer based on Peerless SLS 10" with 30 ltr ported enclosure.
My goal is deep bas in small ported system. Good comparison is Yamaha's YST-SW320 (both: smal size and deep bass).
Some people told me that using Peerless SLS 10" in 30 liters ported enclosure is good idea.
What do You think?
Can i achive 30 Hz (and below) i 30 ltr ported system???
If not Peerless than witch woofer for about 100 Euro?
Greetings
PS
Please forgive me my english... |
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| sreten |
According to its parameters the SLS 10" should be used in a sealed box.
Qts (0.52) is far too high for a compact reflex box.
something like this (note Vas = 62 litres) :
http://www.bkelec.com/Hi-Fi/BX%2010.htm#bx10
in 30L reflex tuned to 30Hz with bass boost is more like it.
:) sreten. |
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| BillFitzmaurice |
| 30L for 30 Hz is not a realistic goal; using a ten figure 60L to be safe. Look for Fs around 25Hz, Vas 100L, Qts .35. That can get you to a 33Hz F3 in 60L. Make sure the Xmax is at least 10mm |
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| Bob_the_builder |
Hi
As I wrote.
The Yamaha's YST-SW320 can easy reach 30 Hz and below.
It Based on unknown woofer witch i think is one of JBL product (it looks almost like GT100)
That's why I decided build small sub. Yamaha's egineers are not David Coperfield, woofer inside YST-SW is not high end (like Peerless XLS or others)
Greetings |
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| gustav |
Hi,
I have tested Tangband W8 740 in vented box approx 25 liters tuned to approx 30Hz. With a 200W amp (4 ohms) you easily reach 30Hz with decent sound pressure. No eq is required.
Very cheap driver but quite good. Better value than Peerless I think, especially for vented boxes.
Check for Nuera in Canada! |
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| Bob_the_builder |
Thank You!
I prefer 10" woofer.
What Do You think about JBL GT 100.
In simulation it easy goes below 30 Hz (30 liters enclosure with 32 Hz tuned bassreflex port).
Greetings |
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| sreten |
| quote: | Originally posted by Bob_the_builder
Hi
As I wrote.
The Yamaha's YST-SW320 can easy reach 30 Hz and below.
It Based on unknown woofer witch i think is one of JBL product (it looks almost like GT100)
That's why I decided build small sub. Yamaha's egineers are not David Coperfield, woofer inside YST-SW is not high end (like Peerless XLS or others)
Greetings |
Some form of bass boost is almost certainly used
in commercial subs to extend bass response.
The GT100 looks decent enough for a $70 woofer.
but recommended reflex loading is 50 litres.
:) sreten. |
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| Dave Jones |
| quote: | Originally posted by Bob_the_builder
Hi Everyone!
I planned to build a subwoofer based on Peerless SLS 10" with 30 ltr ported enclosure.
My goal is deep bas in small ported system. Good comparison is Yamaha's YST-SW320 (both: smal size and deep bass).
Some people told me that using Peerless SLS 10" in 30 liters ported enclosure is good idea.
What do You think?
Can i achive 30 Hz (and below) i 30 ltr ported system???
If not Peerless than witch woofer for about 100 Euro?
Greetings
PS
Please forgive me my english... |
You might want to check out this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...&threadid=35646
I've built a 10" sub in a 29 liter box. You'll see that I got the wrong amp for it. (It needs a 24 db/octave lowpass filter.) But it goes real low. I think you can get 30Hz in a 20 liter box with the same driver and passive radiator. |
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| Bob_the_builder |
Thank You, Davy Jones.
As You wrote
You have built a sub using Peerless XLS 10" woofer.
I know I can build even 20 ltr sub and reach deep below 30 Hz by using XLS and PR. Unfortunetly it's beyond my reach.
However reading this thread I started think that is imposible to build a small sub with deep (30 Hz) bass using woofer for 100 Euro.
How Yamaha can do it?
I know that they tell 20 Hz (but -10 dB) for YST-SW315. |
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| Bob_the_builder |
Hello
Again, i want to ask everyone in here about my idea of small, ported subwoofer based on 10" cheap (100 Euro) woofer.
Unfortunetly, my serch over the net fails.
It seems like nobody never knew Peerless SLS platform (except DST)
Except a feaw sobwoofers in my coutry, no one use this woofer in DIY constructions.
OK: Peerless QTS is not good, FS is bad, only Vas is high... to high :-)
I know it is possible to built a small sub according my needs... but how ??? |
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| Bob_the_builder |
danke schön! :)
Unfortunetly 12" is too big for my room
and is more than i need (SPL)
Greetings |
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| joensd |
Bitte sehr!
It was meant as an example.
You can of course take 8" or whatever you like.
The interesting part is that the enclosure volume of a compound system is halved in comparison to using those two drivers in a "normal" way.
A friend of mine has built the 60l version shown here and myself just a sealed version with 40l and one driver and I have to say itīs absolutely worth the effort, space and basswise.:D |
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| sreten |
| quote: | Originally posted by joensd
The interesting part is that the enclosure volume of a
compound system is halved in comparison to using those
two drivers in a "normal" way.
:D |
Actually the volume is quartered, at the cost
of 6dB in efficiency and 12dB in maximum SPL.
The volume is halved compared to using a single
driver, at the cost of 3dB efficiency due to the
impedance being halved, SPL level is the same.
:) sreten. |
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| DIY_Peter |
| quote: | Originally posted by joensd
You might wanna look into compund subwoofers with cheap but high quality drivers like these two.
http://www.visaton-bausaetze.de/hifi/cp3000.htm
http://www.visaton-bausaetze.de/hifi/compound3000.htm
The first one is still 60l but also goes down to 20Hz.
The second is about 40l and goes to 30Hz.
Both are compounds with two drivers.
First vented, second sealed.
The drivers cost about 37 and are very nice 12"-woofers.
Just as an example of how you can keep your enclosure small. |
Have you heared these designs? I'm wondering if they are good. Sometimes I get the impression that "Klang und Thon" and "Hobby Hifi" are heavily sponsored by Mivoc and Raveland... They have a new design with these drivers about every month... |
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| BillFitzmaurice |
| quote: | Originally posted by sreten
Actually the volume is quartered, at the cost
of 6dB in efficiency and 12dB in maximum SPL.
The volume is halved compared to using a single
driver, at the cost of 3dB efficiency due to the
impedance being halved, SPL level is the same.
:) sreten. |
Not to nitpik, but efficiency compares acoustic power out relative to electrical power in and is not measured in dBs but rather is stated as a percentage figure.
Sensitivity is the sound pressure level out with reference to either voltage or wattage in and is measured in dBs. It may seem a small matter but it is a good idea to get newbies off on the right foot by using the correct technical terminology.
As for the question at hand, going isobaric to reduce cabinet volume is not a bad idea, but the target of 30 Hz from 30 L definetely makes one want to lean towards either 6-1/2 or 8 inch drivers, and there are very few that size that can reach that low. The best bet would likely be the Tang Band 8" sub driver. |
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| joensd |
| quote: | | The volume is halved compared to using a single |
Thatīs what I wanted to say.
Sorry to be misleading here.
Yes, Iīve heard the CP3000 at my buddies and believe you canīt get any deeper for your money.
The sub is not small but is absolutely ideal for HT.
We watched a film together but didnīt listen to any music so I wonīt comment on that.
Well, itīs hard to say if those mentioned magazines are biased in a commercial way.
What I find very positive that they always try to find cheap but also "high end" solutions.
And Raveland woofers are really nice for the money.
Iīve built the simpler version from the last issue.
A high-pass for boost and just one driver sealed.
I did like it but now have to find another solution (go vented etc)as my TL worked out so great that I canīt hear it anymore.
:D |
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| joensd |
Another interesting driver is the MDS08 from Intertechnik.
Itīs a subwoofer driver for cars but looks promising in very small enclosures.
WinISD spits out 25l with an f3 of 35Hz.
The driver costs 55 but I think you can only get it directly from Intertechnik.
Search for "MDS08", then click on the last of the search results and then on "Informationen" on the right and youīll get the T/S-parameter. |
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| sreten |
| quote: | Originally posted by BillFitzmaurice
Not to nitpik, but efficiency compares acoustic power out relative to electrical power in and is not measured in dBs but rather is stated as a percentage figure.
Sensitivity is the sound pressure level out with reference to either voltage or wattage in and is measured in dBs. It may seem a small matter but it is a good idea to get newbies off on the right foot by using the correct technical terminology.
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Nitpicking ?
There is nothing wrong with using dB to compare efficiencies.
IMO 3dB more/less efficient is much less misleading than x 2.
And I specifically avoided dB/W versus dB/2.83V so I wouldn't
confuse the less than enlightened, I never mentioned sensitivity.
:) sreten. |
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| Svante |
| quote: | Originally posted by sreten
Actually the volume is quartered, at the cost
of 6dB in efficiency and 12dB in maximum SPL.
The volume is halved compared to using a single
driver, at the cost of 3dB efficiency due to the
impedance being halved, SPL level is the same.
:) sreten. |
Hmm... Going from two drivers side-by-side in the volume 4*V to two drivers, isobaric in the volume V, the both the efficiency and max SPL should drop by 6 dB. |
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| Svante |
| quote: | Originally posted by BillFitzmaurice
Not to nitpik, but efficiency compares acoustic power out relative to electrical power in and is not measured in dBs but rather is stated as a percentage figure.
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I use dB all the time and like it. It is very useful. |
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| sreten |
| quote: | Originally posted by Svante
Hmm... Going from two drivers side-by-side in the volume 4*V to two drivers, isobaric in the volume V, the both the efficiency and max SPL should drop by 6 dB. |
I seem to be having problems with my thinking in this area,
probably due to not being contradicted in previous threads.
The old acoustic coupling guff again, which I seem to have
misunderstood, and haven't yet adjusted reference points.
You are of course correct.
:) sreten. |
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| Svante |
| quote: | Originally posted by sreten
The old acoustic coupling guff again, which I seem to have
misunderstood, and haven't yet adjusted reference points.
:) sreten. |
Yeah, tough stuff... But at least you don't take 10 posts to convince. ;) |
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