| Jamez_Warner |
OK, got myself the fresnel and a 5.6" TFT, I have a spare 1000W stage bulb here that seems to produce a good white light, so i'm going to try and use that - specs give its lumen rating as 138,000 :) . It also has a built in fresnel giving a pretty parallel light beam - should be ideal...
Obviously heat's gonna be an issue here - we'll see
I'm doing this on the cheap - but may have to resort to a MH/Halogen setup in the future...
any thought's - anyone used stage lighting bulbs( PAR64 ) before?
James |
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| HouseMachine |
You will need some really nice blowing fans lol... But 138.000 lumens is just mad, sounds good :)
You could also think about gas cooling systems, but they will not be cheap. |
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| Jamez_Warner |
I had built a projector round an old laptop ( 14" screen ) and with a row of 4 high power 12v fans blowing across both sides of LCD ( with that bulb ) i managed to keep it all cool, it worked very well and VERY bright untill the laptop died, that was year ago - I again need a projector, hence starting from scratch :)
James |
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| HouseMachine |
| What happened to lcd screen ? |
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| Jamez_Warner |
| sold whole laptop on ebay ( since i couldnt use screen foranything else without expensive controllers ) |
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| ace3000_1 |
| quote: | Originally posted by Jamez_Warner
OK, got myself the fresnel and a 5.6" TFT, I have a spare 1000W stage bulb here that seems to produce a good white light, so i'm going to try and use that - specs give its lumen rating as 138,000 :) . It also has a built in fresnel giving a pretty parallel light beam - should be ideal...
Obviously heat's gonna be an issue here - we'll see
I'm doing this on the cheap - but may have to resort to a MH/Halogen setup in the future...
any thought's - anyone used stage lighting bulbs( PAR64 ) before?
James |
All i can say is crazy, u dont need no where near that much light if you have a light engine set up correctly, what about the uv thats going to hit the screen? the screen will die in a week from the uv alone lol.
Ok so you want to do it on the cheap, you thought in the running costs? lol
A 250w hqi is way more then enough for those small screens, they have a low contrast ratio and you dont need much light to get a decent image, with that big light running through that small screen you will be lucky to see an image at all as you wont have any black level.
Ok i stop picking now lol, but yeah its crazy bud no doubt, on comparison, it would be like putting a tanker engine in your car.
Trev:) |
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| Altec |
"it would be like putting a tanker engine in your car."
hehe not to nit pick. But uh, Some of the US wwII tanks used Lincoln engines. One per side. So A TANK engine-is really a car engine to start with. LOL. |
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| Jamez_Warner |
lol - that's what dimmer packs are for - at normal screen sizes 50% would suffice - but i could take it to larger halls and make a HUGEEEEE screen :)
How does UV affect TFT's? and can you get filters?
James |
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| HouseMachine |
| I think UV is killing the pixels, so causing dead pixels. Actually new -Dichriocicic lol- halogen lamps are using UV filter, but I don' t know about others. |
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| ace3000_1 |
| quote: | | How does UV affect TFT's? and can you get filters? |
UV fades the colours in the lcd, the blue channel is the one thats prone to going first, pro projectors have this trouble, not all, but the cheaper ones that dont incorporate the filters, pro projectors dont use 130000lumen either, and if they are having trouble at 20000lm with uv, imagine the trouble your going to have at 130000lm lol. The colour pigments are also bio organic, and break down from the intense light and heat, the liquid crystal is also bio organic and also break down with time causing lcd fading and dead pixels. So when you think about it, unless you can get heavy duty filters, heat and uv will be the problem and is on even 20000lm of light, imagine 130000lm's of light.
For an example, a normal 1000lumen lcd projector from tests will last about 3months (average), running continuously before the colours will go in the lcd.
Trev |
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| Jamez_Warner |
eek that's pretty scary - ok any good sources of UV filters ( UK ) ?
James |
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| Altec |
" think UV is killing the pixels, so causing dead pixels. Actually new -Dichriocicic lol- halogen lamps are using UV filter, but I don' t know about others"
Yes UV definatly kills pixels. But IR does too. IR makes the pixels that are blocking light at time (dark scenes) WAY overheat. SO its both really. Halo doesnt really make any UV. I got that info right from phillips so take it as you will. But you are correct in saying dichroics REMOVE UV aswell as IR. Anything above (UV) or below(IR) the nanometers of wave length we see isnt refelcted in the light beam its passed streight through the reflectors coatings and expeled that way. But even the front of a halo is harmless UV wise, its just IR. And even there a cold mirror makes IR nothing. My 250watt HALO is COOLER then my 175watt MH I have. I can indefinatly hold myy hand without being hot 6" from bulb itself! Im thinking of reseting up the 175mh just to show how much brighter a well focused beam is over a big blobby bulb, condensor lense and beastly reflector like I had. The MH also made my whites a little blue. And the dark scense were kinda greyed out. Even with a polariser sheet added. Now the polariser just makes colors better. Cause the light isnt just beating the panel in every single angle washing it out now. ( yes I do have panel tilted) I'll see if my other half will take a pic of the light when I blow smoke at it. You can see a triangle of light from bulb to first fres-then lcd is parallel light just about. Then after lcd fres it goes right back down into another pyramid shape. Till it ALL hits the objective lense. I could never say that before.:bigeyes: |
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| Jamez_Warner |
sorry, so your saying halogen's emit very little UV light?
you also say the there is less IR from a halogen then MH ? I thought the whole point of MH was the low IR emissions... ?
James |
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| MC |
| quote: | Originally posted by Jamez_Warner
lol - that's what dimmer packs are for - at normal screen sizes 50% would suffice - but i could take it to larger halls and make a HUGEEEEE screen :)
How does UV affect TFT's? and can you get filters?
James |
You wouldn't happen to have a small DMX dimmer pack you'd be willing to sell would you? |
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| Jamez_Warner |
I have a 3 channel dimmer pack ( one channel has gone - think a fuse - haven't checked )
It's before DMX standard the 0-5V system or whatever it was, but it has a cabled control board
can handle 1200W on each channel...
I'm open to offers as I don't actually work with stage lighting anymore !
James |
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| MC |
| eh, I need to find a DMX pack because I'm writing some software (and built some hardware) for lighting control but the manager at the theatre I work at probably wouldnt' let me use an un-tested device on their dimmers ;) |
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| ace3000_1 |
| quote: | | hehe not to nit pick. But uh, Some of the US wwII tanks used Lincoln engines. One per side. So A TANK engine-is really a car engine to start with. LOL. |
Well if you want to get technical a tanker engine is the same as a 4stroke lawn mower engine lol, but on deisel and much larger with more cylinders lol.
| quote: | | My 250watt HALO is COOLER then my 175watt MH I have. |
As for all of this UV stuff about halogen, halogen put out atleast 20% of uv light, put it this way, i get a tan from a 2550lm halogen in 30mins, from my metal halide that has a uv stop, i dont get a tan, but an unprotected metal halide light has far more uv then the halogen.
Now metal halide vs halogen vs heat, take a look at the specs, a 150w halogen puts out 2550lm of light, a metal halide 150w puts out 13500lm of light, the bulbs them selfs put out about the same heat at the same wattage, dont tell me otherwise as i have manny bulb types of both, halogen is definatley hotter then metal halide for putting out the same amount of light that a metal halide can acheive for the same wattage. Thats why we use metal halide as we need less watts for more light, hence cooler running conditions, and also a better colour temp.
If you have your colours looking ghosted or washed out, take a look at your light engine for non paralelle light, also tilting a panel will cause this badly as while you are getting a brighter image from the tilt, you are actutually washing your image out, just take a look at the lcd with the back light on and tilt it to diff angles.
Trev |
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| Altec |
| quote: | Originally posted by Jamez_Warner
sorry, so your saying halogen's emit very little UV light?
you also say the there is less IR from a halogen then MH ? I thought the whole point of MH was the low IR emissions... ?
James |
"Halo doesnt really make any UV. I got that info right from phillips so take it as you will. But you are correct in saying dichroics REMOVE UV aswell as IR"
Like I said before. UV it makes is insignificant. Not enuff to hurt you and certainly therefore not enuff to hurt the panel. IR it does make....I never said halo dont make IR certainly it does, you cna feel heat, there is IR. I said
"And even there a cold mirror makes IR nothing. My 250watt HALO is COOLER then my 175watt MH I have. "
The cold mirror is the KEY.
Now what I did say was the COLD MIRROR reflets nearly none of it. A beam of heat that can measure well over 180F-220F at 1" from filiment tube is like 90F 8" or so back and 3" from the cold mirror. I did use a cheapo thermometer but Im sure that when I get my IR gun temp readings will be accurate. For now it tops out at 140f and it was pegged near bulb. But hole other world after dichroic, this type being a cold mirror. (RC nitro is another hobby I have needing this IR laser beam heat meter).
THIS is the type of halo Im useing this isnt a cheap **** wally world bulb. Its a high output PROJECTOR bulb made for my 16mm sound pj's I own. ITs color is as high as halo can go. Its also a tungsten-halo filled with KRYPTON. Remember how much brighter those krypton halo's for flash lights are compaired to normal. Its the same diff here. This makes ruffly 22lumens PER watt if yall want hard #'s not cd. Which is 5,500 lumens at 3400 K color temp and 175 hours burn time. At $10 its good.
"This regenerative process prolongs the life of the filament considerably, and also eliminates blackening of the bulb by preventing the evaporated tungsten from condensing on the envelope. The Halogen lamp color temperature runs from 2900 to 3400 deg. Kelvin and are available in wattages from 10 to 250 at operating voltages from 6 to 24; lamp life ranges from 10 to 2500 hours. Luminous efficiency is approximately 22 lumens per watt.
Tungsten-Halogen lamps must be operated at voltages that maintain an envelope temperature between 250 and 350 deg. C. Cooler temperatures will not allow the halogen cycle to take place, thus causing bulb blackening and shorter life; higher temperatures will cause oxidation of the conductors and lead to premature lamp failure."
http://www.pti-nj.com/manual_a-1010.html
http://www.gelighting.com/na/faq/faq_mr16.html
Does it make much UV. no.
Again
" Does an MR16 Halogen lamp provide much UV?
Tungsten filament lamps, such as Halogen and Incandescent provide minimal UV. GE's ConstantColor® MR16 lamps are made using special quartz which has properties that enable it to filter out nearly all of the UV portion of the spectrum."
Mine is phillips (blue dot "I think" will check package again)but it also claims to have a unharmfull, insignificant amount. They recomend a glass cover ONLY cause of bulb explosion due to pj bulbs being under even higher presure then avg. halo's. This is why so much more efficient both in color in compairison and output to normal halo's.THe krpto allows a "bluer" light. This light is NOT yellow. I dont how else to say it. The CRI is also very high and the lumenosity doesnt drop over bulb life. So the color you see when new-is what it is when old and it doesnt flux either in color. It justs pops doesnt dimm much. You can get 300hours at lower V's. I dont know what volts energy saving mode is, but it will matter. As the filiment needs to be atleast so hot to function reburning the filiment. I.E. it will fail sooner if under or overpowered beyond specs. ;)
"Now metal halide vs halogen vs heat, take a look at the specs, a 150w halogen puts out 2550lm of light, a metal halide 150w puts out 13500lm of light, the bulbs them selfs put out about the same heat at the same wattage, dont tell me otherwise as i have manny bulb types of both, halogen is definatley hotter then metal halide for putting out the same amount of light that a metal halide can acheive for the same wattage, hence why we use metal halide as we need less watts for more light, hence cooler running conditions."
Now dont put words in my mouth or a foot in yers either (for that matter) . reread my post PLEASE> Im useing a cold mirror. Bulb temp means NOTHING. Its beam temp. How hot is the clean focused light that hits panel. The rest Insignificant totally. After my cold mirror my Halo beam is cooler then my MH ever was. That is what I said. And I said it again. lOl hehe.
"why we use metal halide as we need less watts for more light, hence cooler running conditions."
Ahh yes I know after what 3 years of DIY'ing pj. Fact is what matters? Look at the big picture/ Lumens, raw lumens-no. Lumens through screen. YES, big yes. Controled no glaring filtered light or just light forced through at any angle? We know that answer too. So what counts. My Huge amounts of indirected uncontrolable MH light? (that I had not saying all of course Im not putting down MH just large bulb MH) No, Controled focusable light. That counts. When most goes right there. How much % you think you can get of a bulb with a uncustomised reflector. These come with that and are light ray traced by the pro's working at phillips and etc. I take theirs cause it works and works well. Like I said what counts is what gets through not what the bulb has. Now Im waiting. I found MH 250watt pj bulb in a 2" 20o dichroic reflector AND a instant start electronic balast that is like 3" sqaure in size! Sure its $ but well see when they give me a price.
Eeek.
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| Jamez_Warner |
You are mistaken, a beam of light cannot carry heat Altec, its the actual light being absorbed that causes heat, with the IR filtered out, 5000 lumen's of halogen light compared to 5000lumens of MH light will cause the same heating effect to an object. An IR beam also causes heating. But photon's are not hot or cold !
James |
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| Altec |
| IR wavelength carries 90% of the heat. You ever see a red bulb. How hot is that light or a black light. Hmmm. IR carries heat. Same bulb same filiment but clear-less heat. Dark absorbs IR. Dark shirt in sunlight-HOT. Surely one photon hitting another causing friciton which cause the glow of light to start with (and more enrgy exerted more lumens also reason for LIGHT DECAY)does make some kinda heat. But its nothing to talk about at OUR lumen ratings. Sure 100,000,000 lumens without IR would have temp..but again at 10,000 and etc, not worth even considering. Were not talking about photon cannons here! Proof. Cold mirrors once again. And I will also say if they didnt work, why do most halo light engines use one to control light beam's heat if in a small case???? If IR wasnt 90% of the temp I wouldnt feel MASIVE drop in temp with it at panel with same air flow same case same bulb, all it does is filter IR and UV. Also saying MH without Coldmirror is same temp as Halo with is way of base. If that is what you were saying,- that is. Cause my 175watt MH burned my condensor lense. Yep focused beam 3" with plain glass plate between from MH bulb made a dark spot in center the size of a pencil eraser in 1 hour. Halo after reflected off cold mirro doesnt. It doesnt even harm a fresnel. One fan on my entire rig. Took more to get light path cool with the large 175watt mh I had. Just blasting air at light path does about nothing hardly. I tried it takes major cfm's even with proper flow. THe light path heat droped in temp-only after cold mirror utilised and a 250watter closer then my 100watt flood was able to be x2 over therefore cold mirror "a dirchoic" WORKS. It removes IR. So the heat is where? In IR there is maybe a 90f temp on my lcd. That is nothing for a 250watt halo not more then 6" or so away. More proof those old pj's I have that usem are HOT. The light out of the lense is HOT even. To hot for a panel in no time. But same bulb-my setup, not hot. Diff, one cold mirror at a 45o angle. Thats it. Oh and of course the fan cooling it.:smash: All that is NOT saying the same MH with cold mirror wouldnt be colder. Course it would. But it was huge and untunable. I couldnt get the portion of light I needed. If I could why does this 5,500 lumen bulb make a brighter pic then my 175watt MH ever did at 15,000 lumens? Cause it wasnt going throught the panel. When I got more through, I lost my picture. I mean it got brighter-but it wasnt color brighter, its was like white glare brighter. And black level was dying fast. Mroe brighter-worse dark scenes got. got tired of it is all. Each to their own. I wanted fast and good for say 60" on the cheap without 10 tons of hassle. This was it. Now if we could get a 250watt MH in the MR16 reflector (same as ENH ref) then wohhhooo! Boys that'll be the dady for sure. 100" oy yeah. And BRIGHT garunteed. Why? Cause its the reflector-the dichroic ref. and then followed by another cold mirror type, bang magic happens. Quiet, cool powerfull small! Controled high intensity FILTERED light. Super lumens without glare. Oh yea.:hot: The sky would be the limit with that puppy. Im not putting down MH here. I think im being misunderstood. Im saying large bulb vs one in a specialised reflector is no compairison. And Cold mirrors are magic. Believe me or not. Dont matter. I found what works for me and im happy with what it does. |
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| Jamez_Warner |
photon's adhere to quantum theory - there is no friction lol !
black absorbs light whereas white reflects, which means black has to absorb more light energy. it does this by converting the light into heat.
IR energy doesn't carry heat in itself - but it will excite particles in objects = heat
cold mirrors work by only reflecting the visible light - therefore the LCD has less to deal with - it will still be heated slightly by the very fact the "black" pixels have to absorb the light
this might help clear it up:
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archive...41057.Ph.r.html
someone back me up here !
James |
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| ace3000_1 |
Actually IR light goes through black clothing, hence why we can make see through cams lol, black under ir light also turns to white.
Altec, the bulbs you use are usless for projection in the metal halide range, it has been discussed asll over this board that the big metal halide bulbs we cant work with as we cant direct the light through the panel with an efective light engine, and thats why we use CDM-T bulbs and hqi bulbs, the big bulbs are a waste of time and light.
Some specs for ya.
250w mh hqi-tsd = 20000lm / 250 = 80lm per watt, much more then halogen and very controlable in this package, also lasts for 12k hrs! cost $35
As for the uv in halogen, dont go by paragrpghs of words that manufactures say, look at hard core charts that state how much uv and other freq's of light it emits, all light bulbs put out atleast 15% of uv light, and at 10000lm, that is enough to fade a panel in no time. Just take a look at how much light you are trying to sqeeze through a small area at such intensity compared to you being tanned by the sun.
As for the heat, my 150w halogen runs at about the same temp as my 250w hqi, i dont know what you have been doing in your workshop, but halogen is way hotter then metal halide. Remeber also that tilting your panel off of its 0deg axis is causing the light to interact with your panel more as the light isnt going through it at a paralelle angle, hence the polarisers cant do their job at its designed spec, whats my point? more heat on the polariser and less black level. Polarisers also fade and break down with uv light and light that is acting against them making their job harder to work in its designed spec.
Another thing ill mention with metal halide vs halogen, i can start a fire with my halogen with a mag glass, i cant with the 150w metal halide.
James you are right, the more somthing absorbs light the hotter it gets, the more you are acting against the polarisers on the lcd with stray light, (non paralelle), the hotter it will become, this brings me to pyramids, dont think pyramids are such a good thing, pyramids that are poorly designed may seem brighter but they realy arent, they are just crossing over your lcd with scatterd light and causing your panel to run hotter, because the light is acting against the polarisers designed specs. That is one reason why its taking me a while to design the right pyramid, the pyramid must produce paralelle light in order to acheive more light recycled going through the panel and not to over heat and damage the polarisers with scatterd light. Is it doable? yess very and i have acheived it.
Trev |
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| Altec |
"Altec, the bulbs you use are usless for projection in the metal halide range, it has been discussed asll over this board that the big metal halide bulbs we cant work with as we cant direct the light through the panel with an efective light engine, and thats why we use CDM-T bulbs and hqi bulbs, the big bulbs are a waste of time and light."
Agreed. I was trying to say just that. Not that MH is bad-course not. THose small ones are good. Large= bad, unfocusable scattered light. I want one in a MR style reflector is all, hard to find and that one site still wont send me info-errrr. I hate some snooty large co's. hehe.
"As for the uv in halogen, dont go by paragrpghs of words that manufactures say, look at hard core charts that state how much uv and other freq's of light it emits, all light bulbs put out atleast 15% of uv light, and at 10000lm, that is enough to fade a panel in no time. Just take a look at how much light you are trying to sqeeze through a small area at such intensity compared to you being tanned by the sun."
Right, I can see yer point. I mean some co's are known for blowing their own horn. So therefore would boast higher IR kill. I will back that up with though, the fact that most all say the Ref is IR removing (cold mirror dichroic) and the IR goes streight through it. Making it atleast 80% efficient at stopping IR. If their lieing I cant help that or find any info to stait otherwise really.
"James you are right, the more somthing absorbs light the hotter it gets, the more you are acting against the polarisers on the lcd with stray light, (non paralelle), the hotter it will become, this brings me to pyramids, dont think pyramids are such a good thing, pyramids that are poorly designed may seem brighter but they realy arent, they are just crossing over your lcd with scatterd light and causing your panel to run hotter, because the light is acting against the polarisers designed specs."
This is diff then heat in light just cause though. THere is a reason for it. Cause unpolirsied (I.E. circular light) is made polarised (in one direction up down or back forth) by absorbing hal fof it at first polariser. TFT twists light to pass second. Light no twisted ='s blocked or black dot-heat also. IR makes it worse by many fold though.
"IR energy doesn't carry heat in itself - but it will excite particles in objects = heat"
IR is by definition HEat energy radiating.
And ergo most heat in a halo is in what form? IR. If ya wanna kill the palight path heat use cold mirror. If IR wasnt the most of heat int he light why do IR lasers work? AT all even? How about those temp gauges that use IR beam to get surface reading-why use a IR laser (red dot)? hehe.
Im not making it up here jvc thinks its true, lol.
http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cach...ight+path&hl=en[/url]
OPTICAL PATH-MAIN FUNCTION
Transports the Arc Lamp High intensity light from the arc lamp to the ILA device and from ILA device to the projection lense. REMOVES THE Infared Light that contains MOST of the heat.
Removes unwanted Ultraviolet light.
Condenses white light useing the light pipe (I've found these at $100 per square 1") for uniform output. SEPERATES white light into its rgb componenet colors useing DICHROIC beamsplitters. Polarises each of the rgb light beams
Combines that into one beam and sends that to the projection lense.
Uhmm. I guess JVC and other major pj co's are whacked for believing in dichroics then? Like I am. They work, thats fact. The Halo bulb is HOT-(so is Xenon in discription listed above)guys keep saying I said its not. THe light it puts out after dichroic isnt. THe center of a MH is much hotter then the center of a halo is! Why , its a arc lamp man. It is HOT in there. That gas is as hot as molten laval! But its light path isnt cause of many factors. Color temp of bulb being a large one almost always over looked here. A halo with color of 3200 will be cooler light then 1500 or 2000. With dichroic even cooler light path. The bulbs core temp itself is NOT the big picture. The output light is. Now a MH with a color of 6000 will be cooler light? Why? Less Ir spectrum. Another reason-its not using a filiment that GLOWs and resist flow more then inert gases. Thats all there is to it. Oh and UV, no problem. First of all its hitting Cold mirror-GONE. Second a plain panel of glass absorbs UV. If you have LOW UV the first substraite of TFT will absorb it. Add one layer of tempered glass if your not sure. But my SOny panel is going on 3 years old. I think it would have been effected by now If I were exposing it to UV.:smash:
"photon's adhere to quantum theory - there is no friction lol ! "
What causes the energy to exert from one to the next then? Why does the next suddenly iluminate. Only thing in electricity that can do that is friction. Resistance. When one hits the other with high forcethe next dont wanna move. When that energy is moved into it, it glows form the heat (transfer of energy) friciton. And why light decay over distance as they loose energy and have less to pass on therefore if not true. Sides you dont need to know quantum theory or physics to feel that Cold mirror removes heat. Scientists made the thing for crying out loud. I dont have to care. IR is 90% or a pj's light source heat. thats the idea. Dont care about the sun moon or starts. Dont wanna loose sight on the main idea. Get caught up doing that junk ya overlook the simple things. Like cold mirrors.
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| ace3000_1 |
I dont think i need to coment in here about the ir again as we have discussed this issue in the diy projector part 2 thread, as we both know a cold mirror is more afective at filtering ir radiation the just a dichoric reflector, but the light has to be reflected off of that cold mirror in order to be more affective, anyway we discussed that already and agreed on the matter lol.
Removing 80% of ir light sounds about right, you wont remove too much more without cutting into the outer parts of the visible spectrum, pluss this also depends on our filters qualities, the same goes for uv, you will never remove it all, but at 80%, its a darn good start.
Trev |
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| mathias |
| quote: | | Now if we could get a 250watt MH in the MR16 reflector (same as ENH ref) then wohhhooo! Boys that'll be the dady for sure. 100" oy yeah. And BRIGHT garunteed. Why? Cause its the reflector-the dichroic ref. and then followed by another cold mirror type, bang magic happens. Quiet, cool powerfull small! Controled high intensity FILTERED light. Super lumens without glare. Oh yea. The sky would be the limit with that puppy. |
Hm.....this is what I have tried to learn people the last year, the PAR30 reflector I have talked about is a dichoric reflector and the same type as MR16 but I called it "coollight reflector" Check the link and last at that page you will find my MH-lamp in a dischoric-reflector. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...&pagenumber=116 |
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| Altec |
"Im in heaven-Im in heaven" Sings to self. Boy did I hit jack pot on this check it! Specially you mathias!
This is a mh 175watt (the type ballast I have)in a 15o BEAM! Look at center beam power and life, Ordering first thing in morning-seriously ....I'll definatly post those results.
"10,000 hours
Base: medium
Beam Angle (deg): 15 degrees
Bulb: R40
Bulb Wattage: 175
Centerbeam Candlepower (cp): 95000
Color Rendering Index (CRI): 65
Color Temperature (K): 4000
Diameter (in): 5
Hot Restrike Time (min): 5-10
Lamp Finish: clear
Maximum Overall Length - MOL (in): 6.5
Nominal Wattage (W): 175
Operating Position: Universal
Warm-up Time (min): 3-5 "
:devilr:
Oh and its only $42!!!! |
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