| kahurt |
| I have a sharp XVZW99U lcd projector. I bought it new two years ago. when the lamp burned out (which was very soon) I was sickened when I found out that sharp wants $350 dollars for a 1400 hr. lamp. When the lamp went out the entire unit shutdown and there is somekind of shutoff system that wont let the projector run without the lamp. My question is . Is there a way to rig up a less expensive lighting system for this projector and how do you get the projector to think it is the sharp lamp? |
|
|
| diylabs |
The answer is basically yes, but there are some catches ...
I've rigged a Panasonic L592 or something like that to use our 250w metal halide HQI light source once. It worked beautifully. The only thing I had to do was to make the projector believe that it had the original lamp inside of it turned on. The way I did this was to locate the 3 wires that went between the ballast and the main board and to use a small resistor to short out two of the 3 connections - PRESTO! It worked fine, but I sold the projector before I had the mind to take pictures of the results. With that particular projector, it worked just as good as when it had the original lamp in it - I was very pleased.
Now I've got a Chisholm projector that has a 4-wire connector between the ballast and the main board and I can't figure out what it takes to trick this projector. I assume that there is some logical combination to tell the projector what the lamp status is, but I don't know what that would be.
Does anyone know how to trick a projector with a 4-wire communication bridge between the ballast and main board into thinking that it has its lamp turned on? |
|
|
| kahurt |
| the original lamp was a 340 watt metal halide . If i rigged up your lamp could i use the ballast in the projector or would i need the one that comes with your lamp? |
|
|
| diylabs |
| The lamp voltage is what is most important in this case. In general, you should use a ballast only if it was intended for the lamp you'll be using with it. I doubt that our 250w HQI or any other metal halide would work with your current ballast except for the lamp that was made for your projector. |
|
|
| kahurt |
| also would the ballast be easily reconized in the unit ? Is the size of the resistor important ? I will take some pictures when I get the projector opened . Maybe you could help me identify the wires to short. thanks |
|
|
| diylabs |
The ballast is usually a separate circuit card with medium/large coils and or capacitors on it. You'll recognize it easily since it is the circuit that is directly connected to your lamp assembly. Don't touch the connectors for the capacitors - could cause a ZAP!
Assuming that your projector has the 2 or 3-wire connectors, then yes I'd be happy to help you, though my method is basically trial and error. Initially I just used a wire/jumper to short the two leads, but then someone recommended that I put a small resistor in there to manage current. You could use anything from 10-100 ohms probably ... it doesn't take much. |
|
|
| kahurt |
| When i had the cover off before I noticed a label that said to service make sure to first turn off lamp first. Maybe there is a switch somewhere that will allow the unit function without the lamp. Also just a note of thanks for all the information posted here and on your website . two years ago when i first tried to buy a replacement lamp from sharp and found out how expensive it would be I decided that there had to be a better way . back then i found no information on the internet. execpt some rippoff about making a projector from a small tv. of course i was despirate enough to be ripped off. I had my hope restored when I came across this forum and then your website. I am telling all my friends about the doit yourself labs website. thanks |
|
|
| diylabs |
| You are quite welcome, and thank you very much for your kind words - that makes it all worth while for me. And don't worry about being ripped off by those "make a big screen from a small TV" offers ... I got burned too, but that's what got me started in DIY projectors. I think a lot of us have been burned on that same deal. Oh well - a $15 lesson in DIY projection :) |
|
|
| kahurt |
| here are some pictures |
|
|
| kahurt |
| this is supposed to be the first pic |
|
|
| diylabs |
Yes that is your lamp ballast. Are you able to extract it out of the projector? That is the safest way to do things and also you'll gain a lot of room inside of the projector by doing that.
I didn't see a link between the ballast and your main board in those pictures - maybe your projector cannot sense when the lamp has illuminated? Of course, the two wires from the power supply board (the 1st picture you posted) to the ballast carry power to the ballast, which is usually in the 300v range, so just unplug that - don't try to modify those wires in any way!
Once you have the ballast removed, take another picture from the top if you're unsure of what you're looking at. Were you able to located any thin wires connecting the ballast to the main board? |
|
|
| kahurt |
| is the entire board the ballast of just the gray box. there are two plugs coming from the board I will post pics of them later today |
|
|
| kahurt |
| here is a picture of the wires goning to the main board |
|
|
| kahurt |
| a closer view of the plugs . the center plug goes to a cooling fan. |
|
|
| diylabs |
| my guess is that the three-wire grouping (brown, black, and yellow) is probably the data link between your ballast main board. If that is the case, then you may be able to trick your projector by shorting the black and yellow wires. If that isn't the correct combo - assuming that these are the correct wires - then just try a different combo. Sorry my help is getting a little shady here, hopefully this technique works for you on the first try. |
|
|
| kahurt |
| those wires go to a cooling fan on the ballast board. I did notice this jumper wire on the board. any ideal what it may be. |
|
|
| diylabs |
| My feeling is that the 4-lead set of wires is probably your data link between the ballast and main board. If that is the case, then I don't know how to help you yet - that's as far as I have gotten with my own projector (don't know what to do using a 4-wire method). |
|
|
| li_gangyi |
I suppose something happens when u turn it on and the ballast is working properly...trace the wiring back to the relays (the black cubes) you might wanna try activating them to see if the projector responds....
Edit: BTW the relays are those black cubes with DEC marked on them... |
|
|
| kahurt |
| when i plug everything in and turn it on i do here the relay click and then nothing . how do i activate them? |
|
|
| diylabs |
| The clicking means that they are activated. I think what happens is that the ballast builds up a charge, activates the relays to hopefully release that charge, then once a certain current draw occurs (when the lamp arc ignites) the ballast sends some signal to the main board that says whether the lamp lighted correctly. This whole time I've been assuming that sending a signal manually on the data link was the way to go, but I think that li_gangyi has the right idea - tricking the ballast into sending that signal for us would be easier. Of course, if someone with a working proejctor could use an oscillascope or voltmeter to test the 4 wires for us to see what data is being sent, that would be awesome and eliminate the need for having a ballast anymore :) Anyone interested in doing that for us? |
|
|
| kahurt |
| I found a service manual on the internet . Do you think it will help figure this out? |
|
|
| kahurt |
| I unpluged the jumper wire and turned it on . this time i didn't hear the relay click |
|
|
| li_gangyi |
| ok...let's have a look of the service manual...I suppose if you unplug the wires...you pulled something out that was controlling the ballast (power on and power off) I dun have a projector...I'm currently gathering parts to build a simple one...but I've messed around with quite a few...mostly hitachi ones...so I'm not too sure...the service manual should have something that will get us closer though... |
|
|
| kahurt |
| I think I'll order the manual . I don't know how long it will take to get here . when I get it i'll let you know what it says |
|
|
| li_gangyi |
| manz...you have to get the manual?? I say then we work it out slowly without the manual...perhaps you can ask the seller if it contains any information on it before ordering...it would be a shame to spend some $$$ on a manual without the information you're looking for... |
|
|
| kahurt |
| I had a thought . I wonder if I wired a resistor in where the lamp goes if that might fool the relay. |
|
|
| li_gangyi |
| hmm...I dun think that will work..coz the lamp is non-ohmic...that is the resistance will vary with temperature...you might wanna try it...but make sure you dun fry the ballast~!!! |
|
|
| kahurt |
| evidently they wont sell a service manual unless your a certafied sharp tech. anybody know where i could find the service manual? |
|
|
| kahurt |
| I disconnected the entire ballast board then I got nothing not even the standby light . I'm not giving up yet . I'm still looking for a service manual. |
|
|
| li_gangyi |
| it should shut off...because the uC is sensing that the ballast has a problem and therefore will noit allow a turn on... |
|
|
| kahurt |
| Just got a service manual from servicemanual.net they have instant download versions . I'll have to read and figure out where to go from here. I belive the answer is in the ballast circuit somewhere. |
|
|
| li_gangyi |
| could u send me the file?? I want to have a look...thanks...just E-mail it to me. |
|
|
| kahurt |
| the manual is 25 mb . I didn't see where i can attach it to the email system here. give me your email address and i will try to send it to you direct. |
|
|
| li_gangyi |
ermz...25mB is a bit steep...maybe you can send me via other channels like FTP or something?? My mail box is at
a1265@singnet.com.sg
dunno if it can take 25mB though... |
|
|
| greidy78 |
Diylabs,
You reference a L592 I have an L595 and am curious in which two of the three wires you shorted and the resistor valuse and rating you used. Furthermore what lamp did you use to retrofit this unit with? Any Further details would be much appreciated.
Thanks in Advance |
|
|
| diylabs |
| Hello! The two wires I crossed ... I'm not sure, but they were next to each other, so it's either 1-2 or 2-3. I actually just used a jumper (0 ohms), but then later decided to put in a 10 or 100 ohm resistor to prevent too much current through those wires. The lamp I used at the time was a 300 watt halogen (didn't know about metal halides at the time), but that was way too hot and melted the lamp housing a bit. You could probably make an aluminum lamp enclosure for a halogen and then install a fan directly on the lamp housing, but metal halide would be much better. Assuming your projector is similar to the L592, then it's a very good projector - who knew panasonic made such good LCD projectors?! |
|
|
| greidy78 |
Thanks DiyLabs,
I sucessfully turned off the autoshutoff with a 220 Ohm resistor between two of the wires. Furthermore just for testing I was able to retrofit with a 70W T6 MH lamp and custom reflector. The image projected was somewhat dim but seemed to be ok. I did whoever notice on one side of the screen was a "warmer" color set, could just be how I placed the lamp though as by no means was it centered or focused.
Now its time to put the 250W in.....
Thanks again |
|
|
| diylabs |
| When you got it to work, did you scream "IT IS ALIVE!"? I'm glad that it worked the same way on your projector as it did on my old one. Your lighting problem is typical, which is probably why more people don't do this, but it's also fixable. Typically using a condenser lens such as we carry will fix that problem very nicely. Also, you want to get the light source as close to the built-in columating lens as possible (this is the square condenser-like lens that is in the projector lighting compartment). I think that you will find that a 250w HQI light source will do the job nicely for darker lighting situations, and will work very nicely in general if you get a reflector and a condenser to go with it (our reflector is not the absolute best, but works okay on a budget). |
|
|
| mbluff |
To reset the timer on this puppy:
Turn main power off.
simultaneously hold down the Volume Down and the adjust down buttons and turn the power on (red main power button).
The unit should power up and the lamp illuminate with 0000h displayed |
|
|
| mindless_fool |
i got a viewsonic pj501...i took it apart and figured out a few things..just need some help from you guys...i turn it on..not much happens cause it wants a bulb...so i need to figure out how to trick it..i think i found the cable that goes from the mainboard to the ballast but i dont know how to short it...its got 3 brown wires and a yellow one
here is a pic:
another question is in the front coming out of the mainboard are two wires connected to a black thingy what is it?
 |
|
|
| knoker44 |
| I found a sharp xv-zw99u tv projector in the dumpster. It was thrown out because it need a new lamp. I saw why after pricing them! I built a new holagen bulb for it with 300w 120 v bulb. I know they get hot so I will keep an eye on that. Heres my problem, the lite works for one second and something clicks and the light goes out, and if I keep the machine on, the lite will relite for 1 second about every 30 seconds. I read your emails to Kahurt on other site, and he has the same unit I have. I need to know how to trick the machine to accept my homemade bulb. I think I have the four wire unit. I was wondering if you figured out how to trick the four wire unit? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thaks Matt |
|
|
| ywh |
Hi !
I have this short arc MH lamp , and it is JYS , I am selling it
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/show...635#post1268635
it is cheap, only $40 each, you need intall bulb into you old reflector only, without any change, don't need change ballast....
what is the words on the ballast? |
|
|
| QuietMan |
I have an old Sharpvision XV-H37U and am just wondering if you ever figured out a way to trick on of these. Not sure which bulb option I will use at this point but want to know if anyone else has had any success that they may share with me.
Any and all information will be greatly appreciated. |
|
|
| sdubb123 |
| quote: | Originally posted by mindless_fool
i got a viewsonic pj501...i took it apart and figured out a few things..just need some help from you guys...i turn it on..not much happens cause it wants a bulb...so i need to figure out how to trick it..i think i found the cable that goes from the mainboard to the ballast but i dont know how to short it...its got 3 brown wires and a yellow one
here is a pic:
another question is in the front coming out of the mainboard are two wires connected to a black thingy what is it?
|
I knows this is really old but hey if you are still around This is what you have to do. jump the 2 middle brown wires and thats all there is to it. You probably have a switch where the bulb goes so you will have to make sure that switch is closed. I guess this can help other people to. :) |
|
|
|
