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diy projector from the Philippines - Click HERE for Original Thread
hertzblaster
Sent email to you r_x16
hertzblaster
I am confused right now. Can anybody help me?

I have a progressive scan dvd player.
I need a component video to vga converter. Best quality at lowest cost.

Here are my options

1. buy progressive component video to vga converter.. What will be my screen resoluti n? Is it 640x480 progrssive? this is the product http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?ca...oducts_id=4233&


2. buy a component video to vga converter( input is interlace?). Will my resolution be 800x600 progressive? this is by using this converter http://www.lik-sang.com/info.php?ca...oducts_id=3235&

Now which is better? Any other product that u can recommend under $100?
hertzblaster
so far these are what I had learned about progressive scan dvd players. kindly comment if you feel i am incorrect.

1. I f you are currently using an interlaced CRT TV the horizontal lines alternating will be evident at close viewing. total horizontal line shown at a time is 240 lines. HDTV can show 480p meaning 480 horizontal lines at any time.

2. LCD monitor/CRT PC monitor/ plasma/projector has deinterlacer. Meaning any interlaced signal fed to them, they will convers to progressive scanning.

for LCD monitor using s-video or composite or component input, LCD will convert the interlaced signal coming from interlaced scan dvd player to progressive. But the horizontal lines is only 240 lines progressive

For lcd monitor using vga input, the signal fed to it is should alway be progressive.

Finally if i will buy a progressive component video to vga adapter, LCD will show a 480 horizontal line progressive which is what we call 480p. if a dvd players component video is interlaced, then the lcd will show 240 horizontal lines only.

My LCD has svga resolution so i need look at a converter that will up convert the dvd 480p scan to 600 horizontal lines. is this possible?

Please make comments if understand these things correctly.

BTW, with regards to chrome reflector which has bubbling. it is still performing great and much better than stainless steel reflector. Try a chrome guys and maybe discussed with the plater how they can eliminate bubbling of chrome plate at high temp. It is still very shiny, no discoloration and the mirror finish is not affected at all. I estimated that i had increase brightness from 20-30% or more. Just a guess.

Will show pics later on. I stil don't have the camera.
hertzblaster
Kindly comment.

Since i have a progressive scan dvd player, all I need is just a simple component to vga adapter ( no electronics needed ) just like this one
http://store.infocus.com/escalate/s...tname=&tab=desc
Hezz
Hertz,

I would recommend driving your projector with a dedicated HTPC or using your existing computer if at all possible. You can then use the DVD player in another room with a small TV.

Otherwise you will need a component to VGA convertor that can scale to 800 x 480. This is an unusual pixel grid so I doubt if any of the cheap convertors would do it. Standard VGA resolution is 600 X 480 and if you input that signal in the Lilliput you will loose some of your resolution unless the lilliput does this automatically. My understanding is that the Lilliput comes with software drivers for windows to do the 800 X 480 pixel grid. But perhaps I am mistaken.


I have decided to build a dedicated HTPC so that I don't have to continually change VGA cable connections with my existing monitor and computer. In the long run it is more flexible as we can then upgrade to higher resolution LCD's as they become available. And they will.


Also, the simple connector will probably not work since the component output on the DVD was not designed to drive a LCD panel but a CRT. With LCD each pixel is addressed. With CRT the lines are scanned so I don't believe the simple adapter will work. Unless your DVD has the circuitry to address and scale images. This is unlikely. This is why the PC is the best most flexible and cheapest alternative.

However, I can understand why some would want the simplicity of a standalone DVD player for the projector. In this case you will have to pony up the money for a dedicated scaler but I think there are now some decent ones for under $500.

Hezz
hertzblaster
Thanks Hezz for that valuable information

Now i would like to share with regarding what i read from the net.

1. The progressive scan of a dvd player is better than other upscaler available. the reason given is in dvd player, conversion is done in digital domain. And a true progrssive source material will even bypass this conversion. (from 480i to 480p)

2. The upscaler is never better than progrssive scan dvd player (480p). Upscaling an analog input signal will result to terrible or fairly nice result. Because you are going to upscale a degraded signal coming from analog output of dvd player.it will never look as good and sharp as progressive output of a dvd player. Meaning even if you upscale the 480i analog output of a dvd player to svga, the progressive 480p vga will still be much better.

3. To convert progressive component video to vga , a simple circuit transcoder is needed not an upscaler.

4. Pc is good but i prefer a dvd player for video and just play games in smaller monitor

Kindly comment if some things are misunderstood. I had just read it earlier.
hertzblaster
BTw, with the existence of dvd player with vga output, things may have simplified for projector diyers. Unfortunately, these are low quality dvd players. Pioneer Taiwan has already come-up with dvd player with vga output (480p). Its for their own consumption only.
audiobot
I think with HTPC the dvd-rom output is taken as the progressive output. Other advantages include many many possibilities to adjust color ratios, color temperature, refresh rate, etc, etc.

I am just beginning to play with the connection between HTPC and a Sharp QA-1650, but already I see better picture quality than the S-video output from the DVD play. Also it is easier to get good color on the projection screen.

Congratulations on your build, by the way, it is very nice. Also wanted to mention that from what I could understand in an optics text, aluminum is a better reflector than chrome.

Michael
ace3000_1
hertz, it depends what hardware you own and if your using a software dvd player or not on the comp, and what functions it has. In all computers its all digital right the way through until output, and if you have a digital panel then you can get a digital signal from the comp's vid card if it has a dvi port.

If you or the guy who made the article had a search around on the net, you can get scan converters for comps too, it comes all at a price, and these days things for comps are cheap, it depends on what quality you desire vs price.

In my eyes comps are far better then stand alone dvd players, just look at what you can do whith comp as in settings and versatility compared to a dvd player. Hell you can get programs that have been mentioned in here before for the comp that does scan converting. If i wer to price my comp with its options as stand alone equiptment, it would be worth thousands, and this is one reason why people make a all in one unit rather then just buy the seperate receivers, dvd players ect, not to forget the upgradablity at a cheap price.

Depending on the hardware, its not hard at all to acheive a better quality with a comp compared to a stand alone unit, just look at sound cards, the majority are far clearer and have a better freq and sig to noise ratio then most mid ranged recievers at a fraction of the price.

Trev
ace3000_1
quote:
I think with HTPC the dvd-rom output is taken as the progressive output.

It comes out as digital if you set it up right, the sound too, in win xp it should be digital on default, only the vid card will change it to anolog or dvi. Interlacing and all the other gizmo is done with the software player. Only one that ive ever owned had that in a harware ver, and that had a seperate card that attached to the vid card, quite old i might add, about 2000 they came out, not needed no more because the dvd can spin fast enough to projuce enough data for the cpu or what have u decode it.

Trev
Hezz
Hertz,

It all comes down to your priorities. If you want the best picture quality and flexibility for the lowest price than build a dedicated HTPC. It does not have to be in an expensive case. Mine is a $15 used desktop case painted black. Nor does it have to have the most expensive hardware to work well. For about $400 you can build a nice basic HTPC.

If simplicity and ease of use for novice users is the highest priority then try to find a component to VGA convertor that will work. However realize that you will not be getting the same quality with this as with the HTPC because the HTPC does all of the scaling in the digital domain as Ace has said. Also the HTPC uses the progressive scan information on the DVD by default.

If you get a scan convertor you will be converting from the analog component outputs on your DVD player into a VGA signal which will be 600 x 480 and the Lilliput will not be able to utilize it's full native resolution so you will have degradation on two fronts.
One with the analog to digital conversion and the other with a loss of resolution because of not using the native resolution of the LCD.

I don't believe that any of the inexpensive convertors will output 800 x 480. And most of the expensive ones won't either. The scalers that have that flexibility and many higher resolutions are quite expensive in the $3000 - $4000 price range.

If you study what the high end home theaters are doing you will find that they are using HTPC's because that give them the best picture quality and flexibilty.

Hezz
Hezz
Another benefit of the HTPC is that you can make a HDTV reciever for a reasonalbe cost that can recieve both satelite and air reception.

ATI is coming out with a reasonabliy prices HDTV card this summer that will cost around $200 or less I think. Check out this preview. Using your computer you can scale the digital image in the digital domain to fit your projector for the higest possible quality.

http://www.hothardware.com/viewarti...eid=331&catid=2

Hezz
bfourcade
Hi HertzBlaster
quote:
Since i have a progressive scan dvd player, all I need is just a simple component to vga adapter ( no electronics needed ) just like this one
http://store.infocus.com/escalate/s...tname=&tab=desc

This type of cables works for devices that can receive component signal over the standar VGA connector. It will not work if your monitor cant decode component signal on the VGA input. It was used on some devices ables to receive both (VGA and Component) on the same VGA In connector.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but in memory, VGA uses 4 o 5 signals R , G , B and Sync (Horizontal and Vertical Sync could be mixed in composite Sync), Sometimes Sync signals come with the Green signal.
But Component has only 3 signals Y, Pb, Pr (for progressive) or Y,Cb,Cr (for interlaced) and they stands for Y=Luminance and sync, Pb or Cb (Green minus blue) and Pr or Cr (Green minus red) or something like that, so in the counterpart the 3 color signals can be decoded when Pb and PB are combined with the luminance (Y signal or total). So you can not feeed a VGA device with component signal because the signals are combined in an special way (substracted). You can do it only if the device can decode the component signal coming on the standar VGA connector.

Hope it makes sense and sorry about my bad english.

Bernardo.
hertzblaster
Thank you guys for all your response. I feel I am now a learned man in just a few days.

!. you are all right when comparing computer quality vs dvd quality. Computer quality is much better than dvd quality because I can use the LCD native resolution which is 800X600 vs 640x 480. All upscaling done in digital domain.

2. DVD palyer has the advantage of ease of use and thats all I know of. instant play. the biggest convenience is the remote control.

4. BTW, i have the best of both world.

5.When u buy new generation dvd player, a lot times it has progressive scan. Please don't miss dvd player with vga output so there will be no need for a transcoder.

6.Progressive component to vga transcoder costs between $50 to less than $200. Circuit components are fairly standard. Add on feaures dictates the high price.

6. My PC is located a liitle away from my PJ so i need to diy a vga cable which is made of cat 5 cable. it could be about 6-8 meters away without loss in quality. Is this right? has anybody tried cat5 as vga cable? They say cat5 can be as long as 50 feet.

7. Vga to component adapter will only work on infocus x1 and other models. ( no electronics involve)

I have athlon xp2400+ system. My vga card is GF4 4200ti. I am thinking of upgrading to vga card with a tuner. i am now searching for a video card. Any recommendation? Will add-on tuner card be cheaper? Has anybody compared the performance of ATI vs nvidia card in terms of video quality?

Thanks a lot. Please feel free to comment on the above summary.
Hezz
Hertz,

you can make a very good VGA cable with CAT5 cable but there are some internet sites that carry pre made high quality VGA cables. For a long high quality cable you will need to do more than just add connectors.

I would do a search because you can probably buy a high quality shielded VGA cable cheaper than you can make one for.

Do a search because a few weeks ago there was a thread on this and there are some good links and information.

Here is a link to company that sells high quality long VGA cables:


http://www.mycableshop.com/sku/CVGAM25.htm


Hezz
hertzblaster
Hezz,

Thanks a lot for making things easy for me. I have excess cat 5 cable from my diy speaker cable. I plan to use cat5 as vga cable first. Will show u the results later.

Hertz
Altec
Uh, dont forget the ferrit core. Or youll get major interfearence. About $2.00 at radio shack or electronics shop. Ya know the round thingy molded on end of vga cord at vga card output and mon input. One for each end is used. It does help alot. Specially on cords that arent shielded well and when using high refresh rates.. A REALLY well high end vga cord needs no core. But I havent seen one like that for about 2 years. THe local mom and pop pc shop had one for really long vga runs to pj in the lab. Ha, $10 per foot. Eh, I passed used ferrit rewired my vga mon was simple and works 110%!:) Like they said if under 10' or so run use ferrit and not high end cable as you will see no benefit. Course if you wanted top output to the lcd youd use the dvi output.;)
hertzblaster
Altec,

Thanks alot for your suggestions. I will do it also if ghosting or interference will be evident without ferrite core.

Hertz
bfourcade
Hi !

If you will use Cat5 cable for a long run VGA extension you will want to use Shielded CAT5 cable.
One of the mayor troubles on long run video cables is total Impedance on cable and connectors. Cat5 cable is 100 Ohms (impedance) and Video devices and circuitry works with 50 Ohms cables. Such diference in Impedance values will put a lot of undesired effects on the signal (ringing, and especially Ghosts, the higher the frecuency of the signal the higher those artifacts appears). But some people where able to make medium distances run VGA cables with CAT5 shielded cable. You must assure to sold the Shield to the ground pin on both ends and sometimes sold all the grounds together. VGA connector have 1 pin per color signal and 1 pin per color ground. Sometimes you need to sold in the connector all the grounds together.
By soldering the shield to the ground it changes the Impedance on the cable to something more close to the 50 Ohms needed.
With my component to VGA adapter I've decide to run 3 separate 50 Ohms cables to carry the component signal from the DVD player to the adapter on the projector side and to use the short Liliput VGA cable to carry the VGA signal because for the moment I cant get shielded CAT5 locally.
I have the VGA connectors ready waiting for STP availabilty in order to run only one cable and put the adapter near the DVD player.
Hope it helps.

Bernardo.
hertzblaster
Bfourcade,

Did you mean 75 ohms? As far as I know, we need video cable with 75 ohms impedance for analog video signal.

I tried using cat5 cable for s-video and I got crappy result. I already have vga female and male socket. Its going to be a chalenge to solder cat5 cable to this vga socket huh? BTW thanks for ur suggestions.

Hertz
Altec
There is some confusion here. Cat5 is ethernet cable. 10mbs. Cat5e is 100mbs higher end wire with better sheilding (all I run here).
Now 75 ohm cable is commenly used for cable tv, and Cb radios. Or airial antennas that use a ballast stepdown from 300 etc. Diff grades of it. My satalite uses R-6 for example. very well shielded. Biggest diff between it and R5 though is the gain loss over distance. Some really highend stuff can do 100' and have the loss of a cheap 10' cable. No kidding. More copper to the wire or more strands (better) the less loss. This kinda 75 ohm cable usually is around $1-2 per foot. Think of it like a water pipe being larger. More water goes through I.E. higher flow rate-less pressure. Pressure to electricity is resistance to flow which with signal like these (antenna's-video) drops gain. small pipe bad. Antoehr note unrelated to the water compairison better grade copper (more pure or special alloys) can also have a major effect.;)

"I tried using cat5 cable for s-video and I got crappy result. "

Course. Its not carrying the signal right. S-video cable cant be LONG. Its digital. That also means needs right wire material aswell. The problem with digital vs analouge RF cable. (ya know antenna or cable tv, its the threaded end stuff). Is that Rf will just get fuzzy-pixelated etc. resulting in bad reception. Digital is all or nothing. Either the signal gets there intact or its just dropped. DVI is the same..;)

"I already have vga female and male socket. Its going to be a chalenge to solder cat5 cable to this vga socket huh?"

That will work. No problem wiring a vga plug its super easy. I rewired my vga mon when the cord went bad. Just 15 pins and not all of them are used. First find the wiring scheme-take notes on it. Then tin the pins used first. Then tin the ends of wires. Heat the tinned pin on db15 then quickly insert wire, remove heat let cool second. USE a 15watt iron with fine tip that is in good shape! Move on to next one then. Follow that and you have NO bare wires exposed. Just all nice and tighty connections. Ive made my own psx adaptors by the dozens. Thats a Printer port interface. Its not hard. Just jump into it, take notes of config-and double check EVERYTHING. You'll be fine.:)


P.S. not all video cable is same. Not all is 75ohm RF. Certainly not S-video as it will weaken the signal TONS-to point of not being useable.
hertzblaster
Altec,

Thats a very good information. You know, I had this experience with my PJ which is very hard to believe that is why I am very interested in cable.

Composite input of my pj is much better than my s-video input. I notice that whenever I tried to use s-video, screen door effect is very evident. I cannot maximize the use of sharpness adjustment in the lcd controller. But with composite input, the image is sharper bec i can make use of sharpness control set to maximum without any ghosting. The screen door is only noticeable when looking at the screen from about 5 feet. But the screen door effect is smoother.This sharpness adjustment I notice helps in brightening up even the image background giving more detail.

Even with VGA input, the image using composite input is more appealing to me. The sharpness control in dindvd platinum software even if you set to maximum, is inferior than composite input i terms of brightness and sharpness. Color is deeper in vga though.

Vga is filmlike or looks flat but image using composite looks vibrant. You will notice that in the picture i am posting.

RG-6 cable is doing wonder to this composite input. I tried different brand and luckily found that fits my need.

I am still trying to prove that composite input is crappy so meaning my pj will look much better if i can find a solution to my problem.

I had tried replacing s-video cable with RG-6 cable and still I screen door effect is very evident. The white looks good though.

I only tried power dvd as other dvd software. Any other recommendation?

Any recommendation on s-video cable brand or cable material?

Thanks a lot.

Hertz
hertzblaster
"Course. Its not carrying the signal right. S-video cable cant be LONG. Its digital. "

Hey, need clarification aAltec. S-video is analog right?
Altec
"Any recommendation on s-video cable brand or cable material?"

http://www.dvdcity.com/monster/monster-s-video.html

Read all that on the page and youll be ready to buy some pro cable. And its all true I'll tell ya from first hand experience.

Monster cable is what I recomend if you want best pic possible without over spending. I use the stuff on my Home theatre and pc connections. Great co with a solid and reasonably priced product.

"S-video components can deliver pictures with incredible resolution, when S-video connections are used. Composite video connections deliver images full of "dot crawl" and color inaccuracies that use of S-video connections prevents. "

http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/S/S_Video.html

"Short for Super-Video, a technology for transmitting video signals over a cable by dividing the video information into two separate signals: one for color (chrominance), and the other for brightness (luminance). When sent to a television, this produces sharper images than composite video , where the video information is transmitted as a single signal over one wire. This is because televisions are designed to display separate Luminance (Y) and Chrominance (C) signals. (The terms Y/C video and S-Video are the same.)"

"Most midrange and premium video equipment provide the additional option of using Y/C video connections. The Y/C (or S-video) cable is terminated at each end with a four-pin DIN connector. Although it may appear to be a single cable, internally it has two 75 ohm coax or twisted pair cables to carry the separate Y and C signals."

See its twisted pair 75ohm. Which means two put together wont work right. Its like cat5E net cable must be exactly = length due to sperated signals. Twisted pair is = lenght and = resistance the hole way through. Pluss twisted to reduce interference. Pretty hard to make a good one at home. Most attempts will end in pretty poor results unless really short cable.

Composite signal can run on s-video and then is converted at end eliminating all of gains though at same time. Only thing composite offers over RF is it seperates sound from the pic info. S-video takes it to next level! Yes they are both analouge but diff types of it. Yur problem is this.....And I have some free cheap s-video here and they are right. It looks crap in compairison.

"Unfortunately, poorly designed "free in the box" S-video cables often use poor construction materials, Wispy wire and inferior shielding which can result in signal degradation that can ruin your picture. Performance suffers even more when mediocre S-video cables are run longer than just a few feet."

this is cause Chroma(color) and luminance(brightness) signals are seperated. They need to be = at the output end. Meaning same clean signal, same strength at end or problems arise like horrible picture.

"Hey, need clarification aAltec. S-video is analog right?"

Yea, Im sorry it was a brain fart. ROFLMAO Been a bad day-I threw my lower back out yesterday and my mind isnt withit! LOL. Sorry for the confusion I caused.


Heres lots of video signal info though targeted at NTSC format you should find it helpfull as far as cable properties are concerned.

http://www.cybertheater.com/Tech_Ar...omp_format.html

hope that helped ya some.
:)
Altec
Oh by the way note this part

"The practical differences in quality between component video and Y/C video is noticeable but not dramatic. You should never use composite video with a DVD player if it can be avoided. Composite video will generate several unnecessary format conversions that will unavoidably create Y/C separation artifacts that are dramatic. (Y/C separation artifacts will be explained later.)"
hertzblaster
Thanks for the links. I earned a lot of valuable information in those sites.

When using a composite input, my lcd comb filter filter will separate a single signal to chroma and luma (y/c).

When using s-video, comb filter is not used. S-video is better because of lesser electronics involve to produce a picture.

i can hypothesize for the moment that my lcd comb filter is doing an excellent job that is why composite is better than my s-video input. but I have to buy that monster s-video cable first to finally prove it. Luckily that cable is locally available.
hertzblaster
Here is my latest image with new dvd "break-in". Thanks to remote control with brightness contrast and chroma adjustment. Now i don't have to go to pj to adjust it for every dvd source disc played.
hertzblaster
The remote is too comfortable. That is why i am shying away from vga cabling.
hertzblaster
HIghly recommended dvd " Kenny Logins- Outside from the Redwoods".

Should'nt we have a survey of better made or crappy dvd so that we have an idea how our pj will perform knowing the quality of dvd disc?

I mean a reference dvd for diypj! Its going to help a lot of newbies knowing whether how their pj will perform under good and bad disc.
harman
hertzblaster, kabayan, i am interested also in building a diy projector.... how can i reach you?
Hezz
Hey Hertz,

Sometimes the default setting for DVD software are designed for CRT monitors or for other reasons may not be at ideal setting for your LCD. Also the LCD itself should have some controls to adjust for color.

If you really want to make a high end VGA cable heres how to do it for a reasonably low price.

First the twisted pairs in CAT5 are to reduce inductance in the wire for long runs. you can accomplish the same thing by separating the wires by some distance. I don't know how many wires are actually used in the VGA connector. Probably not more than 5. So you can get 5 runs of shielded coaxial cable of 75 ohm variety and tape them to a foam core or old garden hose and space them apart as far as possible. Then solder all of the shield together at the connectors. Use silver bearing electronic solder because regular solder is not a very good conductor.

The only differnce between cat5 and cat5e is that cat5e is certified for running at higher frequncy needed for 100 mbs and the dialectric on the wire is higher quality which allows for higher frequency signaling.

Hezz
hertzblaster
Hezz,

Thanks for that suggestion regarding using 5 runs of 75 ohm cable as vga cable. It think it is a good idea and I will try it also.

By the way, I can't believe myself that over tightnening of my RG-6 cable clamp support will reduce the image brightness, sharpness and color.

The following images is going to be a feast for your eyes.
Can't belive it myself. i believe I am approaching CRT like images or maybe I am just dreaming now.
hertzblaster
Another one.
hertzblaster
Its me in the image!
hertzblaster
See the blacks and white! And the skin tone is something to die for! I am very very happy. Call ne HAppy Man from now on!
TheNoodPoopler
I just purchased a Proxima Ovation 820 projection panel, and i was wondering if i can achieve good results with it??

For the light engine i will be using:
- 250w MH bulb (4500k)
- mogul base
- balast
- reflector of some kind :)

For the projection part i will be using:
- dual focus fresnel
- triplet lens

The enclosure will be made of 1/4 mdf.

Tell me what you think!!

good results/bad results.??
hertzblaster
TheNoodPoopler,

I had tried the 250w MH with mogul base before. I had tried a 150w MHN doulble ended lamp by Philips and is much brighter. One reason is the smaller reflector that u can use. We need a point source to project a brighter,sharper and colorful image. I tried my best to improve image for atleast 3 mos using the mogul base but I am unsuccessful. I had posted the result of that and u can see that the image is pathetic. I suggest you use double ended lamp 250w HQI-tsd or HQi-ts NDL.

You may not be able to find a big condenser lens to capture most of the light coming from a big bulb. The use of reflector and condenser lens is highly recommended.

With regards to color quality, The lcd and its controller board quality is a must. I read alot in this forum that proxima ovation is a good one but comparing the sample images with my pj, I believe there is a lot to be desired.
I spend almost $380 dollars including shipping for my lcd.

Your proxima ovation could be a good start. You can produce a nice image with that safely, if you do it right. Play around with the optics and reflector design. Later on i suggest you use a CMV1512 which is cheaper than the one I use and it has xga resolution and higher contrast ratio. You just have to live with a bigger box though.

You may read that I spend so much time about cables also. I can tell u that a good projector will look bad if the right cable is not use or you can improve a lot the image quality by using the right cable. Same is true with audio cables and interconnects. If you are audio-video enthusiast, If the sound is good, the image will appear to look better.

Don't hesitate to ask questions if you want to learn or unsure of something about, Most of the people here like me started out with little knowledge and understanding.

Hertz
havok987654321
@hertz
newbie and a wannabie here, help nman tol?

for a newbie like me, i only want to play dvd movies a play my fav games in ps2, what will you suggest to me?
fonzki
Hey hertz, good morning. As if you even slept.

I'm working in Manila but i live in New Manila. Recently got a condo that i want to setup a projector. I am all dizzy from all this technical talk, but have a grasp on the theory of this projector thing.

I read somewhere that your lcd was bought abroad. Isn't it possible for me to make my own projector from parts bought here in the Philippines?

Thanks in advance.
hertzblaster
Havok,

Please email to me your budget and will tell u the quality of projector that you can make. If you want the best, use cmv1512. If you want a smaller cabinet like mine, use B084SN02. If you you want the smallest one, use the liliput with vga input. As you can see the smaller the lcd, the lesser its image quality. Small lcd with excellent quality is way too expensive.

Fonski,

Yes you can buy an lcd that is locally available. Osram 250w hqi-ts NDL is locally available at Osram Philippines main store located at Libis Quezon City, near the flyover being constructed. You have to hurry to buy the bulb because there are 4 pcs left. The store clerk said that its been there for a long time and only now, i mean me, bought this kind of bulb.

With regards to optics, no locally available parts. But I can sell u fresnel lens, varifocal lens and condenser lens> i am still waiting it to arrive anytime now from abroad. You can buy second hand OHP at HMR but be careful about the projection lens. Its very hard to identify whether its triplet or not unless otherwise marked in the OHP housing. Inspect the fresnel for clarity. Some are really worn out.

Benq,samsung,mags, nec,acer and other brands are available
but i cannot guarantee about the performance because i have not tried it myself. But if you will have time to read other threads, it will help you decide what lcd to use. Be aware that these are 15inc LCD and you will have to live with a bigger cabinet. I think you should buy cmv1512 abroad if ever you will decide to use 15 inch lcd. i saw some post about its performance and it look great.

I broke my Benq 567s. Only used it i think for one week then its gone so i am not really sure if this is better than the one i am using now because i had not optimize my pj then.

If you want my quality of pj, I will have to order in Taiwan for you. If you want to order yourself,you have to prove to them first that you are a capable integrator first so that they wiil give you production sample. But I am still waiting for a group buy of 10 pcs.
before I will order.

for the Liliput, i have already presented my credentials to them and they are just waiting for my order. Actually they say they require minimum 10 pcs but are also willing to give production sample.
I will not guarantee that its better than my pj cause i have not tried it myself.

Hertz
TheNoodPoopler
Hertz,

If i were to go with this bulb (150w MHN doulble ended lamp by Philips) and use a reflector will i end up with a much brighter picture then using the single ended 250 MH?

Another thing, i am not trying to get the best results possible, like yours, mainly i am building this is because i want to achieve better results then using the fresnel + tv scam idea. I also can't afford expensive high quality lcds, and parts. :D I'm only a 16 year old here, i dont have a lot of money :) :). But hopefully i will get the results that i am looking for...........a clear picture.

If i have anymore questions Hertz, i hope that i can ask you!
hertzblaster
TheNoodPoopler,

Based on my experience, i say yes, a 150w double ended bulb with good reflector and condenser will end up much brighter than a mogul 250w bulb w/o a reflector and condenser.

Instead of buying 150w double ended, I suggest you buy the smaller bulb with G12 base like Trev used. With good reflector and condenser will end up same brightness as 250w double ended bulb. I suggest also that you read his thread to know more about this single ended bulb with G12 base.

Just ask questions anytime. I won't charge you nor anyone else. You can do it.Age doesn't matter here.

Hertz
TheNoodPoopler
Hertz,

What if i were to use a 250w double ended light, it is one of those worklights that are yellow and have a handle over top of it. I can pick one up for $40.00, and it is very bright, has a reflector and safety glass, and best of all it just plugs right into a normal 120v plug. Im thinking of just trying it to see how it will turn out. WEll tell me what you think on this.
hertzblaster
TheNoodpoopler,,

Well if you try it and things don't work out right, it still has a very high resale value and u can use it for emergency lights. if it work out right, then u have a dual purpose light engine.

Try to check the
1. lumens output-
2. color temperaure
3 color rendering index

A 150w double ended metal halide + ballast+ignitor+capacitor can be had for $40 here in my country. Did you check the prices already in your area?

hertz
hertzblaster
TheNoodPoopler,

Take note of the following

150w double ended metal halide with reflector and condenser is much better than 250w MH with mogul base w/o reflector and condenser.

150w single ended MH with G12 base with parabolic reflector and condenser may have the same brightness as Osram 250w HQI-ts. Please ask Trev for confirmation.

The things is you must take into account the money spent to pay for electric bills. Its going to be alot when comparing 150w and 250w bulb. And also heat will be an issue with higher wattage.

hertz
TheNoodPoopler
Once i receive my Proxima, I will then start looking into what to get for a light engine. My step-dad has one of those work lights and i will just use that to see if it is good to use as a light engine.
quote:
A 150w double ended metal halide + ballast+ignitor+capacitor can be had for $40 here in my country. Did you check the prices already in your area?
I havnt looked into it yet, because i havnt had enough time to go down and see what there is. But i will look into other bulbs, and other types of possible light engines. Hopefully my Proxima comes soon! Cant wait to start!
Blue_aerox
Congrats on your reults Hertzblaster.
It just looks really nice.

:)
hertzblaster
Thanks Blue_aerox.

I hope you finished your project soon. We are all waiting of your good results. May the lady ( Shania Twain ) in the attached image gives you inspiration.

(Pls. whisper to me if she is too old or too young for you!)
havok987654321
she's awesome@hertz;)
Altec
Alittle to mature for me. LOL-Im 26. hehe. Beutifull woman though. Just not in my ummm errr-time frame I guess you could say. But I rate her a 9, Brittney Spears is a 3 or 4 if that gives you a idea of my chart! Cant stand her.:xeye: Stevie Nix is nice for her age!:eek:
fonzki
Yes, i would like to buy the lenses from you. I looked at Parksquare over the weekend. They don't know what a fresnel lens is. I saw a store named Projector world at SM Cyberzone, they don't know those parts either.

LCD, i don't think a 15" is for me. I don't want a big cabinet since the condo i'll be getting has a very small space. But i might need the VGA input since we only have a PC and no TV in our house. No DVD or other components either. All my home entertainment is coursed thru the PC.

I'll just read on in the threads on computation of distances of lens and lcd and stuff, but frankly, this is really getting me dizzy. Although mey naiintindihan naman ako kahit paano.

Thanks for the help.
fonzki
Did some more reading. So the LCD you're using is from a disassembled LCD monitor? Hmmm, i guess i could use the bigger screen since my PC's NVidia FX5600 can handle very high resolutions. But the concern of the space of a big cabinet still remains.

About the OSRAM hqi-ts bulb. Is this a very big bulb? And it's MH i presume. If OSRAM Philippines only has 4 bulbs left. What about the time that i need bulb replacement, it would be difficult to find one in the future. I was hoping those bulbs easily bought at ACE Hardware or something.

Sorry Hertz ha, i might be trying to assemble a projector that is not as high tech as yours. A budget of 30,000 is probably as high as i can go. But the lower the better of course.

Might be that i'll eventually settle for a lower res (non XGA ) screen.

Balance ko na lang in the next few weeks between my needs, small space, high res, and stuff.
edwinfriend
:) hi hertz pare... sorry to cut ur topic..just wanna if u have any idea about this asbestos replacement? i tried to buy here in hong kong but it seems they dont understand me...baka may idea ka man...any specific name or brand name? do u have pics to show?



hi fonzki pare, welcome to the forum:) ...hope to see some pics of ur projector soon...lol:D by d way i'm from kamuning,QC...
hertzblaster
fonski,

My bulb is a small double ended bulb. Your budget is enough to have a pj like mine. Just add a little amount for condenser later on. Bulb will last 10,000 hours or about 3-5years. I wont worry about the bulb because i can source it abroad. Maybe when the time comes to replace your bulb, there is a much better bulb technology by then.

My lcd is not a dismantled monitor. Its lcd arrrive here with frame and backlight so you just have to remove the frame and backlight. Just email me if you want prices for each part so you can check if your budget is enough. I am using svga lcd not xga.

edwinfriend,

Sorry i am not aware of asbestos replacement because i have no use for it as of now.


Soory guys for the late reply because i was out of town for 3 days.

Hertz
cjab
Hertz, you seem to be an expert. And while your getting hit with a barrage of questions I was wondering if you could help me out to.

Im in about the same boat as Havok, I mainly want one for dvd viewing and some gaming. I am a ok at building its the wires and stuff that mess me over, but I have foiund a couple people who can help me with that part.

I was hoping if you could suggest s format or something for me. My price range, is as low as possible with getting decent results. And preferably no higher than 370cdn. Also, I can get the frame/box made for free, if it can be constructed from sheet metal.

Thanks, Chad
mike_e
hi all!
quote:
Originally posted by hertzblaster
After a month of tweaking, I am now very happy with my results. Thank you guys from these forum who unselfishly shared their knowledge and experience.

aou 8.4 in panel
unsplit fresnel lens
250w hqi-ts osram
condenser
soup laddle reflector
gilkson projection lens

hertz, that's the first posting on this thread. there seems to be a previous thread that would show details of your project as it started, progressed and reached this stage. where can i find that? i'm hoping to embark on an inexpensive projector diy project, and this thread seems to lead me to where i should get started.

thanks for any help from anyone.

-mike
fonzki
edwinfriend,
Thanks for the welcome. I'm excited about this. so you're based in Kamuning or HongKong.

hertzblaster,
yeah, was thinking you were out of town. Anyway, I'll buy the optics from you na if it has already arrived from your supplier.

How big is your cabinet?
fonzki
could i use a laptop lcd? Like this Vaio xga screen?
hertzblaster
Fonski,

My final cabinet measurement is 9x10x36 inches.

The biggest problem with laptop lcd is to find the controller board so that you can connect it to your desktop computer. You will have to search for compatible board and you might end up with a more expensive set-up because this controller board is even more expensive than buying lcd with controller board already.

I would suggest to buy the liliput in hongkong for $280 fob or like my lcd for $320 fob taiwan and it will be at your doorstep in one or two days.

I am sure that you build your own desktop computer and has experience about static discharge that can damage your computer parts.

Those ribbon cable connected to lcd are so fragile and will easily disconnect to lcd when mishandled. No way that you csn repait this other send it abroad for repair and it gonna cost alot.

You mentioned about your limited budget, i would like to suggest to proceed very carefully. Try practicing first with light engine and optics to expereince how they work or how you can maximize the light output before buying the lcd. Use transparencies to project your image like an OHP.

The biggest challenge that you will face later on is how to have a bright image, bright enough to watch movies or play games and some spare brightness to watch those dvds that are unusually have dark scene. Just remember that lcd will only allow about 10% of the light to pass thru it.

Don't buy the lcd yet, but must have an lcd in mind to buy later so that you can design your cabinet carefully.
The moment you put your lcd in the cabinet, as much as possible never to touch or move that lcd again otherwise you are taking the risk of losing alot of money. I broke my lcd before because of changing my cabinet design so many times and moving my lcd carelessly.

Hope it helps.

Hertz
note:
My projector is between the black speaker and the TV in the attached image. Its too big for my lcd. I think you can reduce still reduce the size by 30%. I hope you can do better.
hertzblaster
Mike_e,

I thought you were just around the corner. I didn't notice that you are presently in Saudi Arabia. Kamusta dyan pre?

Anyway, there is no previous thread to that. I build my first projector just by reading in the following sites.

www.diyaudio.com
www.diylabs.org
www. projectorcentral.com

I found no need to post my first pj because its terrible and pathetic .

Thanks to Mr. Allan Staples because its the first site that i discovered. I was about to buy a commercial projector last christmas but i am still afraid about bulb life and cost. I didn't think before that it is possible to diy a projector but I was wrong.

Nothing spectacular in my design and its one of the simplest design that one can make. The important thing is buying the right parts for your rquirements.

Ask yourself the following questions.
1. How much is my budget? Please be aware that infocus x1 cost 75,000 pesos or about $1340 here in our country. Epson S1 cost almost the same but bulb is cheaper by 10,000 pesos. But you can buy abroad for something like $900 and just pay for the taxes here when you come home. Please take into consisderation about bulb llife and cost
2. Will i use it for watching movies or playing games?
3. How big I want my screen to be?
4. Where will I put my projector?How far from the screen?
5. Do you intend to watch during daytime also?

The location where you put your projector and how big your image you want are very critical. Normally a diypj can project 100 inches diagonal from about 8ft-15 ft, It is one of the limitation of diypj becasue it has no zoom lens. If you want your pj to be located at the back of your sitting position, then you had to make corresponding optics focal length requirement.
Just continue to read on for a few days or weeks and get back to me or send me an email when you find it a little confusing.You can call me when you get back home.

cjab,

Thanks for some nice words but I am not an expert. I just want to share my success just like the others who had contributed their knowledge and experiences unselfishly otherwise I am not here.

A lot of people are asking me how to get started and almost always, the first thing that I asked is how much money they want to spend.

370cnd is about 198 US dollars right? Then you will have to contend with second hand parts for the meantime. Everybody wants a decent pj for watching movies and playing games.

Buying the right lcd for you is the trickiest part. If only you are in the Philippines then I can help you find a budget car tv lcd.

I can buy you $50 for the optics at HMR, $50 fo 150w light engine and a second hand car lcd for $100 and there you go, You can probably have 60-70 inches diagonal image . A decent pj for night viewing and playing games only.

But I would suggest to buy a quality optics and light engine and save money to buy for a good lcd later on. Kindly read my inputs that i gave to Mike and fonski.

Regards,
Hertz
cjab
The canadian Dollar is worth a little more now, it went up. YAY!

370$CDN=268.65$USD

so thats around the price im looking to spend. If the case can be made out of sheet metal, i can get that free. SO that would be some extra cash to add on to the price of other things. daytime viewing night time viewing, are the same thingfor me, the room is in my basement which has no windows. So it can be completely dark at anytime.

I can start asking about parts though. If I have certain models in mind. Cause maybe I can pull some strings, and get a discount on some. but thats no garuntee. thanks hertz.
fonzki
I'll be at EDSA Shangrila over the weekend, i could probably pass by HMR to look around for the optics if your shipment hasn't arrived yet.

Thanks for the great tips, like using a transparency in the meantime so as not to damage the LCD. I think it is the best suggestion, as a damaged LCD will set me back a lot.

Quick question, will heat from the light engine damage the LCD?

Thanks talaga partner!
mike_e
thanks for replying, hertz.

compared to some photos of other diyers' projected images, those you posted look better in color and brightness. this may be attributed to the quality of the digicam and the exposure parameters, but whether or not that is so, it's reason enough for me to look in the direction you went.

if you made a bulk order of lcd panels from taiwan, i'd be interested in getting one from you. then i hope to get your recommendations on the optics and light engine.

i could find someone who's on vacation and coming back here to bring the goods over. i'd appreciate if you send me email at mike_diyaudio@bulaga.com to work out the details.

i should be able to source the materials for cabinet and cables from here. and would that be it?

did i miss anything on the materials list? it would be good to start right away.
hertzblaster
Fonski,

I used fan five times stronger than the one you use for ATX case fan. Its 12v 0.6 amp made by compaq. Bought at SOS surplus store. Normally ATX case fan is rated 12v .12 amp. My lcd max operating temp is 60 degC but of course, the lower operating temp will give it a longer life.

Mike,

Sent you email.

Hertz
dewil
hi Hertz...congrats on a PJ well done. Juat wondering about the distance between ur bottom fresnel to LCD and LCD to field fresnel. Thanks buddy...
hertzblaster
Dewil,
Thanks. My bottom fresnel to lcd distance is 3 inches. I did not split my fresnel. Split fresnel did not work for me.

Although split fresnel produces a more even brightness from edge to edge, unsplit fresnel for me produces a sharper, bolder and brighter image.

Hertz
cjab
Hey hertz, still wondering if you might be able to help me out. my above post has the questions i need. thanks.
hertzblaster
cjab,

Is it about the sheet of metal?
I believe its possible, but you have to be very careful about insulating your electrical or electronic parts. You can use the insulator use in transformer. You know that maroon color sheet of paperboard (I am not sure if its paperboard or other material type ), i forgot the name. It can easily be bought at electrical/ electronic parts store.

You should really ask the help of a guy that understand electrical circuit. If i am to make one with metal cabinet. i believe i can do it. It just that it will be too heavy.

With regards to your budget, add $100 dollars more and maybe you are on your way to a decent pj. Don't skip on quality parts. You can improve and spend little by little to finally get the best result that you want.

My lcd alone already cost almost $400. If its too high for you. i suggest get those second hand 15 inch xga lcd at ebay. You may be able to get a result better than mine.

If you finished your project with low quality lcd, i am very sure that you will be wanting for more so why not go straight in buying a good one. As I said before be very careful when handling lcd. If your confidence is not that high yet, might as well settle for psone lcd for the meantime. take time to read more and its going to help you a lot.

Hertz
axcell
Hertz did you base your design on the MK3? If not where did you get your design?
hertzblaster
Axcell,

Welcome to this forum. I should have told you before to join here instead of writing to you individually.

Well, you know its pretty obvious here is the link for you, Its here in this thread. Page 3 post no.28. Read it all. alot of answer to your question is all here.

BTW that 486 laptop lcd, pls read my response to Fonski regarding his sony laptop lcd.

And with regards to your budget, pls read my response to cjab.

Take time to surf www.bidshot.com you might get lucky one day. There is a lot of bargain lcd over there.

Regards
axcell
Thanks Bro! I learned a lot reading this thread. I also answered ur PM and I hope you can give some pointers regarding my requirements. Did you use the mk3 design? Is there a better one?
hertzblaster
I did not know MKIII design pretty well. My design is the most conventional one, Light-fresnel-lcd-projetion lens-mirror.

Ok the answer for the questions i gave to you, here are the reasons why.

1. projection to screen distance- its one of the limitation of diy projector. Because we can not diy a zoom lens yet.
Zoom lens are very expensive that is why our projector to screen distance will be limited.

2. Games vs dvd - if you are a serious gamer, you may want a higher frame rate and higher video resolution. So you should settle for a higher resolution lcd. If not then a lower resolution will suffice. If you are a casual dvd watcher, a vga reslution maybe even enough.

3. concert dvds vs movie dvds- i am an avid concert dvd viewer than a dvd movie viewer. For concert dvds, most aspect ratio is 4:3 while for movies its 16:9. If you are a serious movie viewer, you should consider LCD with 16:9 aspect ratio. Go to www.projectorcentral.com for detailed explanation.

4. you dont have issues about cabinet size so its a plus for you.

5. For 60-70 inches diagonal image, a 150w lamp is enough based on my experience. Less wattage less heat and less electric bill. If you want a bigger image then be ready for 250w-400w lamp.

6. For the budget that you gave ,i believe you now have an idea what to expect of the quality of your pj. Parts prices are known to you.

Hertz
Gigem
Okay,

I have now spent many hours reading all these posts and apparently suffer from information overload. There are only 3,000 variations how to build this thing. However, I am wondering what plans/basic setup to start with where you will get a decent picture and yet not spend a ton of money, or will have to keep upgrading where eventually I would be spending enough money to have just went and bought a brand new one! From researching, I figure you can buy a higher resolution car video lcd panel, a couple of fresnel lens, a projector lens. mirrors, light source and fans for cooling and then it is only a matter of playing with it to get the best focus/keystone correction etc. I am shooting for a 80-100" screen from about 8-10 feet away. I am also wondering about what are the specs of the projector lens I need. Have seen a lot on ebay. The big thing is the lcd panel. My thoughts are using about a 7" lcd panel, a projector lens out of projection TV, fresnels, and I even heard about someone using two fluorex lights (from two worklights at home depot) and some mirrors. I just want something decent to watch dvd and maybe the occasional sports game on weekends! Any help would be appreciated.

I am compelled to manually type a footnote as many of these are comical...so here goes......"I have come here to chew bubblegum and kick ***....and I am all out of bubblegum"!
fonzki
Was at HMR last Saturday. The only overhead projector i saw was a 3M that has no bulb and costs 7,500. Mahal din pala.

I saw in bidpay that you were selling DIY projector for 10,000. What is that? The price of the parts? Like optics and light engine and stuff? You still haven't answered my question on whether you can already sell me fresnel, triplet lens, condenser na.

Thanks hertz.
axcell
I think I saw that in HMR. Yun ba yung basag ang ibabaw? Did you check the fresnel?
hertzblaster
fonski,

can sell u fresnell and projection lens. Items has arrived and will pick up at post office tom. There is delay in condenser lens arrival.

You know, a lot of guys probably has been there before you. I saw last month about 7 units of OHP being sold at 2000 pesos. Of course some parts are missing but fresnell and projection lens are there. But really no guarantee if projection lens is triplet.

That bidshot post is true. That is minus the lcd. But the amount is also enough to build a respectable projector if you are lucky in buying second hand parts.

Right now i believe there is a post for 7 inch lcd there costing 6500pesos only but you have to ask the seller for the model no..

Gigem,

You only need to know the specification for your optics to start your project right? have you studied the focal length calculator? This will help you decide what focal length that you need for projection lens and fresnel lens. And since you have inclination for 7inch lcd, i suggest to review ace liliput projector. I think all you need to know to start your project is all there. His post will help you estimate how much to spend for your project. I can only confidently share my design if we have the same lcd.

Hertz
zaner21
Hey Hertz,

!!!!!AWESOME Projector!!!!! Very, very nice job

Just was wondering if you can post some pictures of your frensel and LCD set up. Unless its top secret. ;) I'm am interested to see how you mounted the LCD with the 20 degree angle and how the light path might have changed from the LCD being tilted.

Thanks very much... You are the man!!!

Zane
hertzblaster
fonski,

pls check my thread at
http://www.tipidpc.com/forums/view.php?id=8116

there are 6 pages.

zaner21,

i will post picture of my design later in the night. Sorry i am in a hurry.

Hertz
hertzblaster
zaner21,

this how my pj looks inside. Isn't it untidy? But effective i believe.

hertz
xseven
testing, testing....this is my first time..sorry.....hello hertzblaster.....am from brunei..quite close to your country....maybe you could help me in building one of those projector....i do know what parts i should get but gettin it here is tough esp fresnel and projection lens....maybe you could sell it to me....for a good price though....am still student here....
hertzblaster
xseven,
Welcome to the world of creative people! Just read on this thread. had already made suggestions for starters. Hope this may help you.

Hertz
hertzblaster
I had just watched Starship Troopers which some experts said that it is one of better made dvd's other than the fifth element. After watching the movie, i agree its one of very good dvd i'd watch, athough not as colorful and brighter than the fifth element.
hertzblaster
I used to hate daylight scene when i am still using that big lamp. i always prefer to watch indoor scene then. Its a good test to determine if your pj is bright enough.

Now its enjoyable to watch daylight scene and its kinda pleasing to the eye not a wash-out look as i used to experience before.
hertzblaster
Can anybody give a link for IR filter on line seller?
I want my lcd to last a lifetime.
dave123
http://www.zytronic.co.uk/laminated_glass.htm
i read it was $15 usd
but lumenlab is going to sell a glass with uv filter for about $8
fonzki
axcell, yes that was the OHP. Don't think it's cracked, scratched maybe, but that is just the glass. Fresnell looks fine.

hertz, yes, i'm interested. Consider your stocks 1 left. Can i meet you over the weekend to buy from you the lenses?

I'm near the Broadway area, but i go to the Makati, Megamall, Greenhills, SM West areas during the weekend for lakwatsa. Let me know which is more convenient for you. Hopefully you can reply to this thread within the day. Only do my internet stuff during weekdays. I'll text you tomorrow if i still don't see your reply here today. Thanks.

Bahala ka na sa support ha? I'll be asking you questions along the way. Salamat.
hertzblaster
fonski,

you can text me 0917-873-0504. i am at the mall also during weekends but i dont know at what mall. probably at megamall. It depend on my wife's wishes where to go.lol!

dave,

thanks for the link. it made my life easier.

Hertz
hertzblaster
Watched 50 first dates and I say wow! what a bright dvd movie!!! Its a micely made for screen 4:3 format. I wil definitely include this dvd to my collections. Try it guys!
hertzblaster
like watching crt huh!
hertzblaster
i love every part of the movie!
hertzblaster
more!
hertzblaster
It's one of the funniest movie by Adam Sandler. Nice movie to watch.
hertzblaster
I hope all movies are in 4:3 format! lol!
hertzblaster
More!
hertzblaster
last one!
hertzblaster
last last one!!!
hertzblaster
Hopefully ican buy this progressive scan to vga converter soon. I only saw one model so far. i hope a new one will be coming so that i can have a choice.
axcell
Hertz
Would you happen to know how much is the igniter, cap, ballast for a 400 watter? I have been going aroung and I saw 400w and a 250 watt metal halide bulb and it sells for 700. Same price sila i dunno why.
I would also like to ask if a sodium type bulb can be used. It is cheaper than the metal halide. I have been seeing a lot of flood lights that uses the halide bulb and it sells for 4k. I will try to go to Manila and I think it is cheaper there.
hertzblaster
Axcell,

see my latest post at tipidpc. its all about component prices.

thats 700pesos lamp are those big bulbs used at street post.We use double ended bulb for diyprojector.

I am not successful using big bulbs . its not the best anyway as light source. I felt two months of my life was wasted of trying to make that big bulb work for my diyprojector.

Pls go to tipidpc i havea lot of suggestions there.

Regards,
Hertz
hertzblaster
Axcell,

I think "two months of my life is wasted " is perfectly correct by using 250w big bulb. You will never attain this brightness like this image. If you can then good luck!

Forget about those sodium lamps, go straight to metal halide or you will lose part of your life also.

Hertz

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